I don’t believe you have ever made a bad video If you were assembling a puzzle that had a picture of a motorcycle on it I would still watch it as long as you explaining the procedure Thanks for the effort you and your cameraman put into them
Hi Mike, Thanks for the UPDATE on the STD Heads & your EVO Replacement Heads I will be anxious to see the VISUAL & well as the SPECIFICATIONS between the "STOCK" EVO & the finished "manicured" VERSIONS Thanks for POSTING about the H-D "TEXTURE" vs WRINKLE paint COOP ...........................................
Hey Mike...down the road how about some Ironhead Sporty tech......... lots of youngin's chopping these bikes last couple years........PS....love all ya do, watch all ya put out. Can't wait to see more Flathead 80 build......... It's coming along very nicely.
I read a comment where someone called you the Mr. Rogers of Motorcycles.... I couldn't agree more... Mr. Rogers was my neighbor in Pittsburgh and now you're my neighbor in California....so great to call you my neighbor, Mike !!!
Mike Good Day Went to a Flee Market and bought a large used toaster oven . Calibrated the temp. control to insure a good paint cure . This gave me and even heat soak for Pre Paint and Post Cure . Used the oven ounce and i think she has forgave me my indiscretion . Take Care
Its always great seeing an artist and his work. Thank you Mike for the glimpse into your work on the bikes. Nothing like getting to work on a bike. It's great.
Mike, your videos are good for the soul. Would you consider showing us exactly how you prep a small piece for painting? Before any primer and the oven. Thanks
Mike, I really appreciate your content! Your Evo rebuild series convinced me to buy an Evo for my next bike...I picked up a low miles ‘97 FLSTC last month and have already had the cam chest apart to replace the INA bearing based on your walk thru (and a factory manual!). You have a wealth of knowledge that us young guys really need when it comes to preserving these machines. Good luck and God speed sir.
@@pacificmike9501 hey Mike. How many miles are the ina bearings good for ? I recently bought a 98 electra glide ultra classic. It has 31,000 miles on it right now. I watched your evo video that you mentioned the ina bearing also. I wondered how ling I had before I really needed to be concerned about it ? Thanks.
Slice of life is cool. You may not know it, but your creating an encyclopedic type thing. This is knowledge you are providing. Edit: it's great and I thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 For example, there's going to be kid who rides dirt bikes, who becomes an adult and inherits a post-WWII pre-Nixon Harley. Your channel is going to be one of the sources they use to figure out what that contraption is.
Good evening Mr Pacific, always great to hear from you sir. I can’t speak for others but if you ever want to tell us any life events or stories from back in the day I for one would love to hear them. I think the 50’s and 60’s would’ve been so cool to grow up in, although not being alive at the time I may be ignorant towards harsh historical events but every decade up to date seems to have its flaws. Leaded fuel, muscle cars, diners and racing “Dead Mans Curve”. Things sound great, take care of yourself Mike.
Glad you find it interesting. Not to brag, but, everything was a lot less stressful. You could have filmed American Graffiti where I grew up, then came Viet Nam. We have to make now the best time of our lives. It is up to all of us. Covid can't last much longer. I figure I could sit and complain or go ride my motorcycle. Easy choice.
Dave Mackie Engineering is my favorite machine shop! Best thing about living in Oxnard, they were right down the road from me. Wish I still lived out there
Envious of the SoCal motorhead resources. Finally found a real machine shop south of Ft Worth. They’re doing my S&S top end. Ohhhh to have Dave Mackie down the street....
Howdy Mike. In the past, I used VHT high-temperature flat black paint and high-temperature wrinkle black with great results. When I started building choppers in the 1960s, anything on a bike that wasn't leather or rubber was either candy-painted, chromed or painted black. Keep those informative videos coming! Build right. Ride safe.
Hey Mike, the factory tech with more of what corporate says. I have painted many wrinkle black top ends back in the day, always kept a sharp clean edge on fins,,because THE MOTOR COMPANY said so, it helps dissipate heat. Heating parts with a heat gun is ok but never bake, powdercoating is also frowned upon, the baking process can upset dimintional stability, and on cylinders can lead to insert/casing separation. I worked in the warranty world, they would deny warranty coverage on these items. Yeh, I know , it's a different world in the dealerships, I had to follow Motor Company policy or loose my ticket. Nice work there, I only mentioned the above because I know you are the kind of guy that wants to know these things I know I am.
According to H-D here in England, 'that part is no longer available'..... probably due to shipping restrictions on air transport. I had some - still got a little bit - and had no problems with it, just sprayed it on, left it to air-dry in the sun and baked it on the bike when riding. I have some VHT stuff that tells you to hit it with a heat gun to get the required finish..... experimentation time I suppose ! There is available a product called 'adhesion promoter' which is basically a spray on glue that the automotive refinishers use to get paint to stick to items - it works on all kinds of materials and paints, again it is not cheap but we do want our babies to look their best don't we ?
@@pacificmike9501 oh, yeah, it's pretty good paint. And give you a good match. In your position, I would have just headed to the dealer, grabbed the ankles, and dropped the coin. But, enough of my Jewish grandmother's blood flows through my veins that I would wince at the price...
Great stuff as always mike! Don't worry to much about the content, i don't think you have ever made a bad video... Keep the video's coming at your own pace, take it easy and be safe!
I appreciate your experience and knowledge for the public. I’m looking to complete a full restoration and rebuild my ‘84 FXR, can you recommend anyone in the SF Bay Area for mechanical assistance. Thank you
Hi Mike --- 2 questions firstly regarding sumping on older bikes can you pull apart the scavenger pump on the knucklehead to show how to clean and reseat ball? Also I have a inlet manifold leaking air at the cylinder locking hex nut ( causing bike to rev high at idle) can we do a tear down and show how to replace the seal etc cheers tim from downunder!!
New nuts and seals (brass ferrels) for the intake seals. Tighten over and over until no leaks. Use the proper manifold wrench, available from aftermarket suppliers. I usually tighten them up then heat cycle, then repeat. It's a pain. I converted my Knuckle to 0-rings with an aftermarket kit. Reseating that bll in the oil pump is usually not necessary. How long did you leave the bike sitting. If you leave it too long, without riding it, it will wet-sump. Try a new ball and spring first, and fresh, clean oil.
Ah, behold the Evo's crown of glory, it's Darwinistic cap, a stacked layer cake of bouncy gasket, to catch the clumsy chap. For containeth there is thy oil a plenty, to bathe, to lube, to cool, but stacketh wrong & mess a plenty shall weepeth, drip & pool. (It took me two goes to get my first one right, 'cleanliness is Godliness' up there or what?) Anyway, as the midwife allegedly formed my face using the back of one, I still prefer a healthy Shovel : )
Great video Mike...I enjoy all of your content and videos sir. Hey I asked you about KB pistons a while back, well I recently got my bike back with the motor completed, it runs pretty amazing, strong power, I have 120 easy miles on it after 2 heat cycles were done...didn't go above 4 grand on the ram gauge. Do you think it's good to hammer on now?...my mechanic says it was good to go after the 2 heat cycles...im not sure.
I'm not your mechanic. This is between you and him. Those are excellent pistons. I probably do things a little differently, but we're all a little different.
@@pacificmike9501.....thank for responding Mike, if you wouldnt mind please sir, tell me how you break in new pistons on one of your engine rebuilds?...I had the honed with 10 over pistons, heads ported and decked with new 5 angle valve seats with titanium valves, not sure of the diameter, but the work was done to match the Andrew's 57 cams....2 into 1 bassani pipe, bigger injectors, s&s air intake......it runs really well after all this, but just wanna be sure I break it in properly...thanks....the engine is a 2003 screamin eagle 103 from a cvo road king...its my baby, I love that bike
Great video! I assume that you just sprayed some of that paint into an extra cap you had on hand. How long do you have until it's starts to get tacky/sticky? Also, what does the pre heating the heads do for you in regards to the paint? Cheers!!
Yes I did. The heat activates the drying cycle. Notice the directions on the can. The paint is dependent upon heat. Heat on the part, heat on the paint. Sorry, I'm not a chemist.
Off topic, I enquired about how you swapped cam gears and you said that you tried not to, and you said there were fixtures out there for this purpose but you didn't own one. Due to an upcoming upgrade on my evo i will be doing this. I fabricated my own fixture. Now my question, do you know at what degree an evo cam is set up ? I can't find this info in any manuals I have access to . Thanks Ron
What is the problem? If it's an Evo, and you have a size problem with the cam gear, you should be able to simply change the pinion gear. They are coded for size by color. You should be able to find that in your factory service manual.
I love your vids. Do you have anything or could show me the right way the oil hoses go on a 73 shovel. I blew up 2 oil filters looked in my book and still cant get it right . Funny thing is, I have had the bike for over 30 years and used to know how they went!! Love the paint on the heads even though I like the heads natural better.
Me too. Not my heads. The bottom hose goes into the fitting on the top of the pump (the fitting closest to you standing on the right side of the bike). That is the "feed" line. The other fitting on the top of the pump is the "return" line. It goes into the tank at the "filler neck." The last one is the "breather" hose and it goes into the fitting in the top of the tank. It also has a "tee" in it that goes into the back of the inner primary. Don't forget the "return" line from the back corner of the inner primary and into that fitting on the crankcase behind the oil pump. I'll bet you remember that skinny little line that goes from the oil pump and into the back of the primary housing to feed oil onto the primary chain.
Hi Mike, I'm working on 2 1998 evo's now. I'm kinda going through the process you have with this project. I have plans to go to Ohio soon. My hope is to pick up a set of heads to have worked over. My question is what to inspect for too know they are good donors for my/any engine ? The biggest question is how to measure a head to identify whether or not they ha e been milled ? Could you explain this. Maybe even do a video on how to look a head over to know it's a good part to buy for a project, in particular knowing if it's been milled.
It's honestly a "pig in a poke." You could measure a "known good" pair and establishing the exact distance on a cylinder head from the top to the bottom. In reality, you should be able to "cc" the chambers. Always inspect for cracks around the valve guides and the valve seats. Do they look good? Are the fins in good shape? With a straight edge, check the flatness of machined surfaces.
Mike my 1977 Super Glide Electric Start FXE my turn signals only have one wire, and when I use the turn signals i have to press the button and hold it for the signals to work is that how they suppose to work Mike?
Mike if you want the fin to have the aluminum shine how do you do it ? I tape off every machined surface and paint the head then use Dry wall sanding screen it don't clog like wet or dry or sand paper .
Hi Mike, Gotta say your vids are great, Just took a look at a video named I NEED TO TALK. Got a question for you. I have a 1980 FHL, I want to change the front end. Are all Harley necks the same size? Id like to put something like a wide glide. Will it fit? I really don't like the covered up front shocks Thanks Mick Tony from down under
Yes it will fit. I don't know what you have now. But the old Big twin trees all fit from 49 up into the eighties. Decide what you want to bolt to it and pick the trees accordingly. All of the wide front ends use 41 mm fork tubes.
Hello Mike, I enjoy your videos. Can you recommend a budget performance build for a stock 1996 HD Road King. I purchase the bike and its been sitting for several years. I have never owed a EVO motor before. Respectfully, Bob
Budget performance? Evo is the least expensive Harley Big Twin to deal with. I have done a bunch of mildly hopped up Evos. Cam, carburetor, exhaust system and ignition system. But it's not cheap. And, you have to decide what you'd like it to do. I'm retired and don't want to talk people into what I think they want.
Mike, I appreciate your candid respond; I think my goal is to spec out a combo of displayment, cam, head work etc. that will perform equivalent to a stock 103" twin cam engine. I understand the carb, exhaust, air cleaner and tuner.
You'd be amazed at how much power a stock displacement Evo motor can make. There are unlimited combinations to make up, stock displacement or big bore and stroke.
When rebuilding heads, how do you remove carbon from the combustion chamber without harming the aluminum or black wrinkle paint? Do you know of anything that will at least soften the carbon to make it easier to remove?
We experimented with that a lot a long time ago. But, today, there are all kinds of wild thermometers available. I like aluminum raw and cast iron painted black. My personal preference.
Nope... ever wonder why radiators and a lot of Underwood components that generate heat from the inside are black? It will dissipate it out and away vs something that’s just painted black not generating any heat.. then it’s a different story...
Howdy Mike, I’ve been asking questions about certain things cause I’ve been wrenching on my bike and thank you for all the answers. I’ve finally got my ‘64 iron head on the road. I do have one more questions, first time rider of these bikes. When I down shift it feels like the metal parts inside the top end are clicking and it feels like it’s falling apart. Is this normal for these types of antique bikes?
There's a lot of stuff going on in that bike. It does have solid valve lifters. The rocker arms in early Sportsters have springs to set the endplay. The "click" you here could be the need for a valve adjustment, or maybe the alignment of the rocker arms on the valve stems. Did you look at your valve lifters and inspect the rollers? Again, with four cams and a handful of gears in the camchest, there's a lot of stuff going on in that bike. When your valve train is working well, you say, "I can hear the valves, and they all sound the same."
@@pacificmike9501 a lot of it does sound like it’s synchronized and in working order. I did look at the cams and the rollers on the lifters. It’s all in good condition even the rocker arms. I never rode it past 1st gear but now that I have shifted through them the sensation of all the metal interacting with each other caught me off guard. It feels really thought but I’ve heard that’s how these bikes feel. I was looking for validation. I will keep looking, I think I might need to re-tighten some head bolts and even the bolt that goes through the rocker arms. Again, thank you very much for the knowledge I definitely have use some of the knowledge you share to help me get this iron head back on the road. Side question, when are the pacific Mike t-shirts coming?
Thank You. Sometimes it's hard to say, yes they are pretty noisy. Manufacturing techniques have improve a bunch since the early Sportsters were built. I really believe that's why the Evo Sportsters are so much quieter. That and hydraulic valve lifters. Completely rebuilding an early Sportster requires a lot of matching of gears and all new bushings in the camchest, and it really is quite costly. The payoff is pretty cool though. I remember when they were new. They were amazing. One of my old buddies just built a super refined, fully restored 66 XLCH. It is incredible. In the meantime, ride that Sportster and love it like it disserves. T-shirts? We're working towards it. Thanx for asking.
Hey Mike, I’ve got a shovel with some issues I’ve been beating my head against and can’t figure out, time for a shop. Do you take customers? And if not, who do you recommend in the greater Los Angeles area? Thank you Sir!
"Shovelhead back together again" :) This vid. Is okay, some people learn from others' mistakes. Your error!! So you're human after all???!!! Say it ain't so. Did you do a live video on Friday? Something about your flathead popped up and went away. Not sure what happened but when I looked for a new video - nada. I'm confused.
RUclips puts them in here there. This was just to show I'm still prepping for things to come. Shovelhead going back together soon. Nothing from Friday. Finished painting late last night. Sewed up the Panheads saddlebags. Stuff needs maintaining. Trying to get caught up by Spring. Coming soon.
hello all and my 2 cents. back when those devilish evos came to useage in around 1983-84, i despised those foreign looking jobs. I hate it I hate it. well as tic tock has went by, I ride the crap out of them and barely ever need a repair. I get to ride ride so, I never been so wrong. I have read they thinking about a a newer type motor. I will just keep that that old carbed out evo for awhile longer. My friends has 167000 miles with no rebuild. yes 167k. see ya down the road.
@@pacificmike9501 hi mike. you seem so kind. I will admit a shovelhead talks like no other. I will even type nothing sounds like a 1000cc sportster shovel with 2inch drags. sitting at a red light with 5 others, that sportster was the most vivid of them all. how weird. I love motorbikes to much. see ya down the road. i love that saying you monikered for us all. Can one man change the world. Yes he can.
I don't know. Usually, back off on the cable and adjust starting at the clutch, by adjusting the center screw to set the position of the cluch arm. Then, adjust the cable. Start by lubing the cable and lever though. Now, if it still wants to creep, Start off by loosening it all up and adjust the plates, then continue through to the lever. If this doesn't work, service the whole system. We have videos that explain this in depth.
Hi Mike I have a friend that owns a 1945 EL Knucklehead he is looking for the SUPER DELUXE Emblems for the front fender. do you have a set you would sell him or know where he can get a set
@@pacificmike9501 I know that's what he is looking for real ones. he only deals with Old Harley's he has 2 for sale a 1945 EL Knucklehead and 1949 Hydra glide Panhead
Why arent you spraying it on. By swabbing it your not atomizing the paint like it needs in order to bond. Not to mention about 1000 percent less work lol
I don’t believe you have ever made a bad video If you were assembling a puzzle that had a picture of a motorcycle on it I would still watch it as long as you explaining the procedure Thanks for the effort you and your cameraman put into them
Thank You
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the UPDATE on the STD Heads & your EVO Replacement Heads
I will be anxious to see the VISUAL & well as the SPECIFICATIONS
between the "STOCK" EVO & the finished "manicured" VERSIONS
Thanks for POSTING about the H-D "TEXTURE" vs WRINKLE paint
COOP
...........................................
Cool. We'll have fun playing with both pair of those heads.
I'm a hobbyists Harley mechanic I really learn a lot from you Mike thanks .
Thank You.
Hey Mike...down the road how about some Ironhead Sporty tech......... lots of youngin's chopping these bikes last couple years........PS....love all ya do, watch all ya put out. Can't wait to see more Flathead 80 build......... It's coming along very nicely.
Thank you. Just don't have an ironhead Sportster. I do stuff for me and a couple old friends. That's about it. I am retired.
Thanks for the video Mike! Regards Kenny
Regards to you. Thank You
I read a comment where someone called you the Mr. Rogers of Motorcycles.... I couldn't agree more... Mr. Rogers was my neighbor in Pittsburgh and now you're my neighbor in California....so great to call you my neighbor, Mike !!!
Wow. I'm proud to be your neighbor. Thank You
Now I have subscribed you the best I learned so much about Harley greatings from South Germany
Awesome, thank you!
🤜
Mike
Good Day
Went to a Flee Market and bought a large used toaster oven . Calibrated the temp. control to insure a good paint cure . This gave me and even heat soak for Pre Paint and Post Cure . Used the oven ounce and i think she has forgave me my indiscretion .
Take Care
Cool.
GOOD LORD! I thought I was the only one that used to paint small area's with a Q-Tip. Wow I'm in GOOD company 👍
Teddy Roosevelt said, "Use what you got, where you're at."
Thanks again, Mike.
You are welcome!
Thank you
Thank You
Always love stopping by the garage have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
Hello Mike there are looking great thanks for sharing
Thanks 👍
Glad I ran across the video. Didn't get a notification. Looking good. Might have to touch up my Evo with a cotton swab. Heat gun is a good tip.👍🖖
Thank You. It works.
I enjoy all of your videos and always learn something. Even if it's just to slow down and have patience! Thanks Mike. Take care 👍
Thanks 👍
It's the little details that makes a part look great! Lookin good!
Thanks!
Thanks guy.. nice job !
Thank You
You do nice work. Your friend is patient too. That's always a blessing
Yes, I'm not the fastest. Thank You
You are great! I love to see videos from your work. Thank you Mister!
Glad you like them!
Thanks mike, always a pleasure to view videos Stay safe ..
Thanks, you too!
Its always great seeing an artist and his work. Thank you Mike for the glimpse into your work on the bikes. Nothing like getting to work on a bike. It's great.
Couldn't agree more!
Thank You
Mike, your videos are good for the soul. Would you consider showing us exactly how you prep a small piece for painting? Before any primer and the oven. Thanks
Clean it. Blast it, and with heat, the paint will stick.
Mike, I really appreciate your content! Your Evo rebuild series convinced me to buy an Evo for my next bike...I picked up a low miles ‘97 FLSTC last month and have already had the cam chest apart to replace the INA bearing based on your walk thru (and a factory manual!). You have a wealth of knowledge that us young guys really need when it comes to preserving these machines. Good luck and God speed sir.
Thank you. You guys make it worth it.
@@pacificmike9501 hey Mike. How many miles are the ina bearings good for ? I recently bought a 98 electra glide ultra classic. It has 31,000 miles on it right now. I watched your evo video that you mentioned the ina bearing also. I wondered how ling I had before I really needed to be concerned about it ? Thanks.
All these videos are fantastic. I just picked up a 98 road king, and I’m loving the evo videos. Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thank You. Some interesting Evo stuff coming soon.
I used the Harley paint on my 89 evo. Good stuff!
Yah, I think so.
RIGHT on Mike.....you make mistakes..😆who would've thought...ride on brotherman
Nah, that was my evil twin spinnin' yarns.
Thanks Mike, looking good. 👌😃
Thanks 👍
A great job, is in the details. Looking good!
Thanks!
THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed, You and cameraman Mike need to just sit down and talk about bikes.
We do. But we talk for days.
Thank goodness you are well !
And I hope the same for you!
You can make videos on any content in that shop and we’ll appreciate it especially since you’re so thorough with the important things
Thank You
Slice of life is cool. You may not know it, but your creating an encyclopedic type thing. This is knowledge you are providing.
Edit: it's great and I thank you.
Wow, thanks
@@pacificmike9501 For example, there's going to be kid who rides dirt bikes, who becomes an adult and inherits a post-WWII pre-Nixon Harley. Your channel is going to be one of the sources they use to figure out what that contraption is.
I hope so. Thank You
Good evening Mr Pacific, always great to hear from you sir. I can’t speak for others but if you ever want to tell us any life events or stories from back in the day I for one would love to hear them. I think the 50’s and 60’s would’ve been so cool to grow up in, although not being alive at the time I may be ignorant towards harsh historical events but every decade up to date seems to have its flaws. Leaded fuel, muscle cars, diners and racing “Dead Mans Curve”. Things sound great, take care of yourself Mike.
Glad you find it interesting. Not to brag, but, everything was a lot less stressful. You could have filmed American Graffiti where I grew up, then came Viet Nam. We have to make now the best time of our lives. It is up to all of us. Covid can't last much longer. I figure I could sit and complain or go ride my motorcycle. Easy choice.
@@pacificmike9501 Right on Mike, always super stoked to get your feedback
Hey Mike I have to admire the way your shirt, even when you're painting looks clean and new, thanks for doing the videos
Thanks 👍
I really enjoy all of your videos... thanks 👍
Thank You
Considering all the stuff goofy stuff other RUclipsrs put on their channel you’re way above that so anything you put on is always gold
Thank You
Dave Mackie Engineering is my favorite machine shop! Best thing about living in Oxnard, they were right down the road from me. Wish I still lived out there
I get it.
Envious of the SoCal motorhead resources. Finally found a real machine shop south of Ft Worth. They’re doing my S&S top end. Ohhhh to have Dave Mackie down the street....
Howdy Mike. In the past, I used VHT high-temperature flat black paint and high-temperature wrinkle black with great results. When I started building choppers in the 1960s, anything on a bike that wasn't leather or rubber was either candy-painted, chromed or painted black. Keep those informative videos coming! Build right. Ride safe.
Thank You. Do keep doing it.
Hey Mike, the factory tech with more of what corporate says. I have painted many wrinkle black top ends back in the day, always kept a sharp clean edge on fins,,because THE MOTOR COMPANY said so, it helps dissipate heat. Heating parts with a heat gun is ok but never bake, powdercoating is also frowned upon, the baking process can upset dimintional stability, and on cylinders can lead to insert/casing separation. I worked in the warranty world, they would deny warranty coverage on these items. Yeh, I know , it's a different world in the dealerships, I had to follow Motor Company policy or loose my ticket.
Nice work there, I only mentioned the above because I know you are the kind of guy that wants to know these things I know I am.
Well, there it is. Thank You.
Mike, we love everything you do! Just keep puttin out the good vibes brother! Mush love!
Thank you! Will do! And backatcha.
According to H-D here in England, 'that part is no longer available'..... probably due to shipping restrictions on air transport. I had some - still got a little bit - and had no problems with it, just sprayed it on, left it to air-dry in the sun and baked it on the bike when riding. I have some VHT stuff that tells you to hit it with a heat gun to get the required finish..... experimentation time I suppose !
There is available a product called 'adhesion promoter' which is basically a spray on glue that the automotive refinishers use to get paint to stick to items - it works on all kinds of materials and paints, again it is not cheap but we do want our babies to look their best don't we ?
You got it.
Awesome man. Your videos are the best 👍
Glad you like them! Thank You
Yeah, Harley is *mighty* proud of that paint... Think the last can I bought was about $25.00...
Yup.
It works very good though...
I needed a match. That was my thinking.
@@pacificmike9501 oh, yeah, it's pretty good paint. And give you a good match.
In your position, I would have just headed to the dealer, grabbed the ankles, and dropped the coin.
But, enough of my Jewish grandmother's blood flows through my veins that I would wince at the price...
... I like Tatro too...
Cool.
A great job, Looking good! Mike as always
Thank You
Great info again : be touching up some solid black cyls soon !!! - thank you sir -
✊👍🏻👌
You bet.
Good stuff, you’re human.
I've had that questioned before.
I had good luck bakeing the heads at low heat after painting, seems to make for a heavy wrinkled finish
Cool.
D,RAY . I WOULD Never pa in't a SHARK CHUM COOLING FIN.
Missed ya
Gosh. That's nice. Thank You
I think I like the paint for boot POLISH!.
Okayfine.
@@pacificmike9501 only becuz my steeltoe tip boots are HELLED Together with duct ape.
@@pacificmike9501 only becuz my steeltoe tip boots are HELLED Together with duct ape. Really my steeltoe boots RR HELL ED Together with duck tape
Great video👍👍
Thank you 👍
Great stuff as always mike! Don't worry to much about the content, i don't think you have ever made a bad video... Keep the video's coming at your own pace, take it easy and be safe!
Thanks! Will do!
I appreciate your experience and knowledge for the public. I’m looking to complete a full restoration and rebuild my ‘84 FXR, can you recommend anyone in the SF Bay Area for mechanical assistance. Thank you
Sorry, I don't have anyone up there I've done business with in years.
Hi Mike --- 2 questions firstly regarding sumping on older bikes can you pull apart the scavenger pump on the knucklehead to show how to clean and reseat ball? Also I have a inlet manifold leaking air at the cylinder locking hex nut ( causing bike to rev high at idle) can we do a tear down and show how to replace the seal etc cheers tim from downunder!!
New nuts and seals (brass ferrels) for the intake seals. Tighten over and over until no leaks. Use the proper manifold wrench, available from aftermarket suppliers. I usually tighten them up then heat cycle, then repeat. It's a pain. I converted my Knuckle to 0-rings with an aftermarket kit. Reseating that bll in the oil pump is usually not necessary. How long did you leave the bike sitting. If you leave it too long, without riding it, it will wet-sump. Try a new ball and spring first, and fresh, clean oil.
Cheers & thankyou for your advice
Ah, behold the Evo's crown of glory, it's Darwinistic cap,
a stacked layer cake of bouncy gasket, to catch the clumsy chap.
For containeth there is thy oil a plenty, to bathe, to lube, to cool,
but stacketh wrong & mess a plenty shall weepeth, drip & pool.
(It took me two goes to get my first one right, 'cleanliness is Godliness' up there or what?)
Anyway, as the midwife allegedly formed my face using the back of one, I still prefer a healthy Shovel : )
Great stuff! Evos are for Evo People. That's cool. Shovelheads are for Shovelhead people. I love them all, some just more than others.
Great video Mike...I enjoy all of your content and videos sir. Hey I asked you about KB pistons a while back, well I recently got my bike back with the motor completed, it runs pretty amazing, strong power, I have 120 easy miles on it after 2 heat cycles were done...didn't go above 4 grand on the ram gauge. Do you think it's good to hammer on now?...my mechanic says it was good to go after the 2 heat cycles...im not sure.
I'm not your mechanic. This is between you and him. Those are excellent pistons. I probably do things a little differently, but we're all a little different.
@@pacificmike9501.....thank for responding Mike, if you wouldnt mind please sir, tell me how you break in new pistons on one of your engine rebuilds?...I had the honed with 10 over pistons, heads ported and decked with new 5 angle valve seats with titanium valves, not sure of the diameter, but the work was done to match the Andrew's 57 cams....2 into 1 bassani pipe, bigger injectors, s&s air intake......it runs really well after all this, but just wanna be sure I break it in properly...thanks....the engine is a 2003 screamin eagle 103 from a cvo road king...its my baby, I love that bike
Do what your mechanic recommends. I go easy for 500 miles. You're trying to let the rings seat in the cylinders.
@@pacificmike9501 ...ok Mike, thank you for getting back to me...I value your advice sir.
Mike, not to be weird, but we would watch/listen to you eat lasagna. It's not the action, its the man behind the action!
Wow. Now I'm blushing, with lasagna in my beard.
Hey mike, when are you going to show us all the great shops and folks that sell and machine parts?
Good question! I'm going in too many directions at once right now. We hope to get around to everything in time.
Great video! I assume that you just sprayed some of that paint into an extra cap you had on hand. How long do you have until it's starts to get tacky/sticky?
Also, what does the pre heating the heads do for you in regards to the paint?
Cheers!!
Yes I did. The heat activates the drying cycle. Notice the directions on the can. The paint is dependent upon heat. Heat on the part, heat on the paint. Sorry, I'm not a chemist.
Off topic, I enquired about how you swapped cam gears and you said that you tried not to, and you said there were fixtures out there for this purpose but you didn't own one. Due to an upcoming upgrade on my evo i will be doing this. I fabricated my own fixture. Now my question, do you know at what degree an evo cam is set up ? I can't find this info in any manuals I have access to .
Thanks Ron
What is the problem? If it's an Evo, and you have a size problem with the cam gear, you should be able to simply change the pinion gear. They are coded for size by color. You should be able to find that in your factory service manual.
I love your vids. Do you have anything or could show me the right way the oil hoses go on a 73 shovel. I blew up 2 oil filters looked in my book and still cant get it right . Funny thing is, I have had the bike for over 30 years and used to know how they went!! Love the paint on the heads even though I like the heads natural better.
Me too. Not my heads. The bottom hose goes into the fitting on the top of the pump (the fitting closest to you standing on the right side of the bike). That is the "feed" line. The other fitting on the top of the pump is the "return" line. It goes into the tank at the "filler neck." The last one is the "breather" hose and it goes into the fitting in the top of the tank. It also has a "tee" in it that goes into the back of the inner primary. Don't forget the "return" line from the back corner of the inner primary and into that fitting on the crankcase behind the oil pump. I'll bet you remember that skinny little line that goes from the oil pump and into the back of the primary housing to feed oil onto the primary chain.
Hi Mike, I'm working on 2 1998 evo's now. I'm kinda going through the process you have with this project. I have plans to go to Ohio soon. My hope is to pick up a set of heads to have worked over. My question is what to inspect for too know they are good donors for my/any engine ? The biggest question is how to measure a head to identify whether or not they ha e been milled ? Could you explain this. Maybe even do a video on how to look a head over to know it's a good part to buy for a project, in particular knowing if it's been milled.
It's honestly a "pig in a poke." You could measure a "known good" pair and establishing the exact distance on a cylinder head from the top to the bottom. In reality, you should be able to "cc" the chambers. Always inspect for cracks around the valve guides and the valve seats. Do they look good? Are the fins in good shape? With a straight edge, check the flatness of machined surfaces.
Mike my 1977 Super Glide Electric Start FXE my turn signals only have one wire, and when I use the turn signals i have to press the button and hold it for the signals to work is that how they suppose to work Mike?
Yes, that's the way they were made.
Mr. Mike, why didn't you use your special ez bake oven you used in another video when you baked on the paint on your Flathead parts?
I was just touching it up. Just a little paint here and there.
Thanks for the videos Mike. What do you do to prep the parts for paint?
Clean. I scuffed those fins with a little sandpaper.
... The hell with paint... Ride, ride, ride...
Not your bike. He wants paint, he gets paint.
Hey Mike, why do you paint before you send them off to the machine shop?
Because they won't mess them up.
Mike if you want the fin to have the aluminum shine how do you do it ? I tape off every machined surface and paint the head then use Dry wall sanding screen it don't clog like wet or dry or sand paper .
Very Cool. Thank You.
👍🏻🇨🇦
Thank You
Hi Mike,
Gotta say your vids are great,
Just took a look at a video named I NEED TO TALK.
Got a question for you.
I have a 1980 FHL, I want to change the front end.
Are all Harley necks the same size?
Id like to put something like a wide glide.
Will it fit?
I really don't like the covered up front shocks
Thanks Mick
Tony from down under
Yes it will fit. I don't know what you have now. But the old Big twin trees all fit from 49 up into the eighties. Decide what you want to bolt to it and pick the trees accordingly. All of the wide front ends use 41 mm fork tubes.
Hello Mike, I enjoy your videos. Can you recommend a budget performance build for a stock 1996 HD Road King. I purchase the bike and its been sitting for several years. I have never owed a EVO motor before.
Respectfully,
Bob
Budget performance? Evo is the least expensive Harley Big Twin to deal with. I have done a bunch of mildly hopped up Evos. Cam, carburetor, exhaust system and ignition system. But it's not cheap. And, you have to decide what you'd like it to do. I'm retired and don't want to talk people into what I think they want.
Mike, I appreciate your candid respond; I think my goal is to spec out a combo of displayment, cam, head work etc. that will perform equivalent to a stock 103" twin cam engine. I understand the carb, exhaust, air cleaner and tuner.
You'd be amazed at how much power a stock displacement Evo motor can make. There are unlimited combinations to make up, stock displacement or big bore and stroke.
Is the oven not working? 👍
Oven is great. Just a little touch-up here.
Hello mike
I suppose when the item,cylinder head or jug, left natural, is bare aluminum?
I’m real happy I subscribed to your videos.
Yes. And Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 your welcome 😎
When rebuilding heads, how do you remove carbon from the combustion chamber without harming the aluminum or black wrinkle paint? Do you know of anything that will at least soften the carbon to make it easier to remove?
There are chemical carbon removers. I usually scrape with a carbon scraper by hand.
I just blasted and cleaned inner primary. Bought wrinkle black and have installed old oven. Do you recommend primer or bake and paint? Thanks Mike
I just bake and paint.
... Paint only interferes with cooling...
It's for someone else. But, black does run cooler as it absorbs heat from the inside and dissipates it to the outside. I still like raw aluminum.
@@pacificmike9501 hmmm.
That makes sense because motor will run hotter than ambient temps- always. Elementary my dears.
We experimented with that a lot a long time ago. But, today, there are all kinds of wild thermometers available. I like aluminum raw and cast iron painted black. My personal preference.
Nope... ever wonder why radiators and a lot of Underwood components that generate heat from the inside are black? It will dissipate it out and away vs something that’s just painted black not generating any heat.. then it’s a different story...
Hi Mike! Can you explain how you clean between the fins for paint?
Baking soda blast or bead blast. Depends on the part. I'll blast heads or cylinders, but not crankcases.
Howdy Mike, I’ve been asking questions about certain things cause I’ve been wrenching on my bike and thank you for all the answers. I’ve finally got my ‘64 iron head on the road. I do have one more questions, first time rider of these bikes. When I down shift it feels like the metal parts inside the top end are clicking and it feels like it’s falling apart. Is this normal for these types of antique bikes?
There's a lot of stuff going on in that bike. It does have solid valve lifters. The rocker arms in early Sportsters have springs to set the endplay. The "click" you here could be the need for a valve adjustment, or maybe the alignment of the rocker arms on the valve stems. Did you look at your valve lifters and inspect the rollers? Again, with four cams and a handful of gears in the camchest, there's a lot of stuff going on in that bike. When your valve train is working well, you say, "I can hear the valves, and they all sound the same."
@@pacificmike9501 a lot of it does sound like it’s synchronized and in working order. I did look at the cams and the rollers on the lifters. It’s all in good condition even the rocker arms. I never rode it past 1st gear but now that I have shifted through them the sensation of all the metal interacting with each other caught me off guard. It feels really thought but I’ve heard that’s how these bikes feel. I was looking for validation. I will keep looking, I think I might need to re-tighten some head bolts and even the bolt that goes through the rocker arms. Again, thank you very much for the knowledge I definitely have use some of the knowledge you share to help me get this iron head back on the road. Side question, when are the pacific Mike t-shirts coming?
Thank You. Sometimes it's hard to say, yes they are pretty noisy. Manufacturing techniques have improve a bunch since the early Sportsters were built. I really believe that's why the Evo Sportsters are so much quieter. That and hydraulic valve lifters. Completely rebuilding an early Sportster requires a lot of matching of gears and all new bushings in the camchest, and it really is quite costly. The payoff is pretty cool though. I remember when they were new. They were amazing. One of my old buddies just built a super refined, fully restored 66 XLCH. It is incredible. In the meantime, ride that Sportster and love it like it disserves. T-shirts? We're working towards it. Thanx for asking.
.060? Wow that's a video in its self.
I haven't done it in years, but half a point in compression can be real nice, in the right application.
Hey Mike, I’ve got a shovel with some issues I’ve been beating my head against and can’t figure out, time for a shop. Do you take customers? And if not, who do you recommend in the greater Los Angeles area? Thank you Sir!
I don't recommend shops to people. I am retired. Sorry.
"Shovelhead back together again" :)
This vid. Is okay, some people learn from others' mistakes.
Your error!! So you're human after all???!!! Say it ain't so.
Did you do a live video on Friday? Something about your flathead popped up and went away. Not sure what happened but when I looked for a new video - nada. I'm confused.
RUclips puts them in here there. This was just to show I'm still prepping for things to come. Shovelhead going back together soon. Nothing from Friday. Finished painting late last night. Sewed up the Panheads saddlebags. Stuff needs maintaining. Trying to get caught up by Spring. Coming soon.
Hey mike. Is this paint something I can go to the dealership and buy back in parts ?
Yes.
What a pain in Azz. 🤪⚡
So, don't do it.
🍻🇺🇸
Thank You
hello all and my 2 cents. back when those devilish evos came to useage in around 1983-84, i despised those foreign looking jobs. I hate it I hate it. well as tic tock has went by, I ride the crap out of them and barely ever need a repair. I get to ride ride so, I never been so wrong. I have read they thinking about a a newer type motor. I will just keep that that old carbed out evo for awhile longer. My friends has 167000 miles with no rebuild. yes 167k. see ya down the road.
I get it. Enjoy.
@@pacificmike9501 hi mike. you seem so kind. I will admit a shovelhead talks like no other. I will even type nothing sounds like a 1000cc sportster shovel with 2inch drags. sitting at a red light with 5 others, that sportster was the most vivid of them all. how weird. I love motorbikes to much. see ya down the road. i love that saying you monikered for us all. Can one man change the world. Yes he can.
As long as we all learn to play nicely with each other, we're all doing it.
Mike my 1977 fxe shovelhead when I have it in gear with the clutch Lever pulled back it still moves. do I need to just the cable?
I don't know. Usually, back off on the cable and adjust starting at the clutch, by adjusting the center screw to set the position of the cluch arm. Then, adjust the cable. Start by lubing the cable and lever though. Now, if it still wants to creep, Start off by loosening it all up and adjust the plates, then continue through to the lever. If this doesn't work, service the whole system. We have videos that explain this in depth.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you Mike
Hi Mike I have a friend that owns a 1945 EL Knucklehead he is looking for the SUPER DELUXE Emblems for the front fender. do you have a set you would sell him or know where he can get a set
I believe V-Twin repops them. Real ones are probably quite valuable.
@@pacificmike9501 I know that's what he is looking for real ones. he only deals with Old Harley's he has 2 for sale a 1945 EL Knucklehead and 1949 Hydra glide Panhead
Why arent you spraying it on. By swabbing it your not atomizing the paint like it needs in order to bond. Not to mention about 1000 percent less work lol
It was just the edges of the fins, but, you're probably right.