Hey, another option to consider is renting a larger DI tank from a water filtration company. For our mobile detailing setup, we rent DI tanks for $15 dollars a month from a company called Puretec. They also come to change the tanks out, so you don't have to waste time changing the resin.
Another fact to point out is that the resin life will vary widely based on what your TDS reading is at your home. I was gifted a CR Spotless system and only got 4, yes 4, washes out of this 450 dollar purchase due to my TDS levels being around 800ppm. I highly suggest getting a TDS reading of where you live if you have very hard water prior to considering a DI system.
Was that 4 full washes or just final rinses? My water is around 450 ppm and am curious how many final rinses I could get with the cr spotless on a full size truck..
Formula 4 works really well. Also, I live in Florida and I find myself using ONR wash and wax for most of my wash jobs especially if they are light soiled.
Have been watching your vids for a few months now, keep up the good content. If your still running a DI system something to maybe look into is getting a reverse osmosis system as a prefilter. My brother is a professional mobile detailer as well and he set up a pretty legit system using a 4x40 RO cartridge after a set of sediment and carbon filters. It makes the resin in his DI system last way longer and it gets the water to 0-PPM. Only downfall is it’s a relatively big setup so he has it mounted on a wall inside his garage. Just some food for thought. I’m currently having him help me build a similar setup because I was tired of going through so much resin. Even as a hobby detailer but I have pretty shitty tap water.
I'm starting to think that for those stuck with tap water, a rinseless wash solution is the only way you'll take control and prevent mineral water spots. But you need to work smart and 1) do a cleaning presoak with something stronger and 2) use multiple cloths/mitts and skip the buckets.
Sounds good. Now do this in Phoenix, with the drying aides, in the middle of summer, in the shade, when it is still 105 degrees at 7:30pm. It is so frustrating!!!! I just do my cars and extended families cars, for free, so I can not really justify a DI system. But that would be cool to get.
I am getting back into detailing my own cars again and yes I have found between that and Monsoons, I am not a fan. You wash the car and then rain... But at least we can enjoy it until August.
Your channel is one of the best, most concise and thorough on detailing- well done! I'm a hobbyist, taking care of my personal cars- but with my well water (and even city water here) at over 300 ppm TDS, washing (or very quick wiping) in shade is a must. If preparing for ceramic coating, will a drying aid as a final rinse before coating interfere with the bond? Will IPA or proprietary cleaner clean up any "wax" left behind by the Formula 4?
I am in Vegas and our water sucks. yours isn't that bad at 115, my hose averages about 460 on my tds meter, which will shorten the life of the resin, that's why I would rather get the larger tank then the cr spotless. tried calling around for a commercial DI tank service and it just doesn't make sense at $115 mo. rental and a $400 change out fee.
I have an older model Suburban I use for photo excursions and camping. I had it painted with bedliner a few years back that is holding up really well. Can't use a paste wax due to the rough surface. Would Superior Formula 4 work for this type of finish? I generally wash it with a soft nylon bristle brush to get the dirt out of the nooks and crannies, but would like to coat it with some sort of protectant.
I've been using an On The Go brand DI tank for 5 years now. Best thing I've ever bought. It's similar to the Pro 100 you show here. Thanks for the vids.
It's odd that you would have this video because I'm allergic to the chemicals in our city water. I'm supposed to get a pure water system for the house. But I haven't so far. I don't like to take showers because the chemicals in our city water burns my skin. Or it may sting my skin. Anyways this isn't a good thing. Maybe I should think about getting the pure house water system and the DI pro 100. Thanks much for your video.
Have you tried the DI tank from Simple Chuck? I've thought about buying this system. But I'm having second thoughts after seeing some other options on your video. I am a mobile detailer looking for the best result. Any thoughts on the best DI option for a mobile detailer?
Could Superior Formula 4, as a Drying aid also be good enough as a wax that so I don't have to go back over it and wax it? And can I do it through the foam cannon?
I tried and mixed with Adams Foam Wash and Formula 4 with DI water in the HOT Florida Sun yesterday! Lots of pollen on the car. Didn't go well at all. Perhaps my order of operations, concentration amounts..? Don't know, but I won't be doing that again!
How many “small” cars could your tank do if used for rinsing off only? I have been wondering for a couple years as prices of resin have gone up in the UK. I usually wash my VW Golf once a week. Thanks
Hi, I use a heavy duty deionizer tank, and for some reason it's still not filtering. Im at the point where i'm using 2 different waxes, formula 4, 3 filters, as well as a deionizer tank and my PPM is 350+ still. DOnt know what to do, i feel like i've done it all.
Dude you made me dizzy just watching your vid. Good video but Jezze dude take a breath and dont cut out every milla second of dead air!!!!!! Just my opinion lol lol
Why not just use an RV water filter? They filter the water to 5 microns. Works for me, not perfect but way less expensive. Camco inline water filter. The reason I am posting this as a reply is because this advice has been removed/censored 2 times from this channel. I guess it is VERY good advice. Try a Camco 40631. cost is about 50 bucks, has replaceable filters.
The only thing I would go to "School" for would be learning how to wax/polish/paint correct the right way. Its better to screw up on a test panel in school than having to tell your customer, "Hey I uhh may have went a little too deep with my cutting compound and uhh yeah the paint is a bit jacked now"
In my personal opinion (as someone who actually went out and got “certified”), no, it is not worth it. Did I particularly learn a new technique here and there throughout the course? Yes. But at least specifically in terms of monetarily, it wasn’t worth it. (Again, in my opinion). While taking the course I already knew how to execute on the majority of techniques discussed; also which compounds and polishes to use in certain applications/environments; i.e. humidity, etc. I’ve also been passionate about auto detailing for over 20 years now and just recently within the passed few years decided to leave my job, start a detailing company and work for myself once I felt like I had enough clients to sustain me. Go to your local junk yard and purchase a scrap hood and/or door and begin fine-tuning your technique and figure out after lightly scraping the panel with fine grit sand paper, which compounds and polishes achieve the best results, etc. (Which will not always be uniform across all makes/models, as the molecular integrity of the clear coat varies per manufacture). Going about it this way, you’ll at least be able to see for the most part which compounds and polishes work best. I would continue watching Luke here, and also take into consideration watching these others as well; IMJOSHV - Car Detailing and Reconditioning Tips, Detail Groove, Pan The Organizer, The Detail Geek, AMMO NYC, Stauffer Garage, M.A.D. DETAILING, Hawaii Detailing, Adam’s Polishes, P&S Detail Products Official, and Chemical Guys. There are others I could list, but those are some incredibly informative platforms that you can learn a ton from simply just by watching their videos. So in short, again, it is not worth it (in my opinion) to get “certified” when you can just come on here (RUclips) and watch detailing and reconditioning videos (from reputable sources), and accomplish phenomenal results. I say get out there and get started once you feel comfortable in your craft. Good luck!
School for it definitely isn’t worth it because as soon as you get a business license you’re technically certified. To learn how to do paint corrections do the following. Step 1: go to local junk yard and buy a few car hoods with clear coat in tact. Step 2: practice, practice, and more practice. With a DA polisher it’s pretty hard to screw it up.
Hey, another option to consider is renting a larger DI tank from a water filtration company. For our mobile detailing setup, we rent DI tanks for $15 dollars a month from a company called Puretec. They also come to change the tanks out, so you don't have to waste time changing the resin.
$15 a month? what company?
How do you find those in your area
Another fact to point out is that the resin life will vary widely based on what your TDS reading is at your home. I was gifted a CR Spotless system and only got 4, yes 4, washes out of this 450 dollar purchase due to my TDS levels being around 800ppm. I highly suggest getting a TDS reading of where you live if you have very hard water prior to considering a DI system.
Was that 4 full washes or just final rinses? My water is around 450 ppm and am curious how many final rinses I could get with the cr spotless on a full size truck..
Full washes@@jeremys3987
Formula 4 works really well. Also, I live in Florida and I find myself using ONR wash and wax for most of my wash jobs especially if they are light soiled.
Have been watching your vids for a few months now, keep up the good content. If your still running a DI system something to maybe look into is getting a reverse osmosis system as a prefilter. My brother is a professional mobile detailer as well and he set up a pretty legit system using a 4x40 RO cartridge after a set of sediment and carbon filters. It makes the resin in his DI system last way longer and it gets the water to 0-PPM. Only downfall is it’s a relatively big setup so he has it mounted on a wall inside his garage. Just some food for thought. I’m currently having him help me build a similar setup because I was tired of going through so much resin. Even as a hobby detailer but I have pretty shitty tap water.
Rinseless washing takes care of water spots !
Scratch & Shine!
Make sure to agitate the dirt using a brick
@@CockadoodleLou I laughed out loud 😂
I'm starting to think that for those stuck with tap water, a rinseless wash solution is the only way you'll take control and prevent mineral water spots. But you need to work smart and 1) do a cleaning presoak with something stronger and 2) use multiple cloths/mitts and skip the buckets.
You read my mind, was looking into getting one eventually and was kind of put off because of the different kinds. Appreciate the insight. 👍
Sounds good. Now do this in Phoenix, with the drying aides, in the middle of summer, in the shade, when it is still 105 degrees at 7:30pm. It is so frustrating!!!! I just do my cars and extended families cars, for free, so I can not really justify a DI system. But that would be cool to get.
I am getting back into detailing my own cars again and yes I have found between that and Monsoons, I am not a fan. You wash the car and then rain... But at least we can enjoy it until August.
Your channel is one of the best, most concise and thorough on detailing- well done! I'm a hobbyist, taking care of my personal cars- but with my well water (and even city water here) at over 300 ppm TDS, washing (or very quick wiping) in shade is a must. If preparing for ceramic coating, will a drying aid as a final rinse before coating interfere with the bond? Will IPA or proprietary cleaner clean up any "wax" left behind by the Formula 4?
😮😮😮
Thanks for all the tips. Can you use the formula 4 on ceramic coating vehicles. Thanks
Thanks
I am in Vegas and our water sucks. yours isn't that bad at 115, my hose averages about 460 on my tds meter, which will shorten the life of the resin, that's why I would rather get the larger tank then the cr spotless. tried calling around for a commercial DI tank service and it just doesn't make sense at $115 mo. rental and a $400 change out fee.
I have an older model Suburban I use for photo excursions and camping. I had it painted with bedliner a few years back that is holding up really well. Can't use a paste wax due to the rough surface. Would Superior Formula 4 work for this type of finish? I generally wash it with a soft nylon bristle brush to get the dirt out of the nooks and crannies, but would like to coat it with some sort of protectant.
I've been using an On The Go brand DI tank for 5 years now. Best thing I've ever bought. It's similar to the Pro 100 you show here.
Thanks for the vids.
wash with ONR (which is a water softener btw) done deal
Do you spray it on the car when it’s dirty or you mix it into the water tank?
@@cristovalderrama1794 spray it on the car
What about running this in a foam cannon while doing your final rinse?
So, what is the best way to use formula spray way? Spray on bottle or mixed in with washing soap or its own foam cannon?
So would the Maguair hybrid ceramic wax would work as the same as formula 4 spray wax or wats the difference
It's odd that you would have this video because I'm allergic to the chemicals in our city water. I'm supposed to get a pure water system for the house. But I haven't so far. I don't like to take showers because the chemicals in our city water burns my skin. Or it may sting my skin. Anyways this isn't a good thing. Maybe I should think about getting the pure house water system and the DI pro 100. Thanks much for your video.
Have you tried the DI tank from Simple Chuck? I've thought about buying this system. But I'm having second thoughts after seeing some other options on your video. I am a mobile detailer looking for the best result. Any thoughts on the best DI option for a mobile detailer?
one question a lot of mobile guys will have is how much does DI cost for say 2,000 gallons of di water a month!
Can you review AQUACREST garden hose Walter filter ?
Would speed wax work similar . We reason I’m asking is I only have three cars and I don’t need Gallon
What's better for beads... P&S or Formula 4
Could Superior Formula 4, as a Drying aid also be good enough as a wax that so I don't have to go back over it and wax it? And can I do it through the foam cannon?
I tried it in a cannon and it didn't do well. Form 4 is more of a quick detail wax and doesn't last very long.
Would you recommend to go over it with a spray wax/ topper after drying it with the formula 4??
Have you tried adding the formula 4 to your foam cannon, and if so what was the result? Thanks
I tried and mixed with Adams Foam Wash and Formula 4 with DI water in the HOT Florida Sun yesterday! Lots of pollen on the car. Didn't go well at all. Perhaps my order of operations, concentration amounts..? Don't know, but I won't be doing that again!
Awesome I have to black SUV. Do you use it full strength? How long does it last? Do I have to use it every time I wash my vehicle?
Ty
I de-ionized the like button
Dude.. that was like sooo phunny
How many “small” cars could your tank do if used for rinsing off only? I have been wondering for a couple years as prices of resin have gone up in the UK. I usually wash my VW Golf once a week. Thanks
Do car washes use tap water? Just curious.
They couldn't afford too I imagine.....
@@77rommel yeah it would probably be insanely expensive, right?
I prefer rinseless could I spray formula 4 then onr process and dry with leaf blower?
yes just got to do it quick af
You can't just mix the formula 4 spray wax with car wash soap in the same bucket?
Hi, I use a heavy duty deionizer tank, and for some reason it's still not filtering. Im at the point where i'm using 2 different waxes, formula 4, 3 filters, as well as a deionizer tank and my PPM is 350+ still. DOnt know what to do, i feel like i've done it all.
Are you getting water spots? How many TDS readers have you tried?
I wonder if the guys at Formula 4 ever knew people would use concentrated car wash for water spot reduction.
I did the spotless and it worked for two washes . Total waste of 350$$
Nice vid, I had to double check my video settings. Thought I had it on 1.25. You talk fast.
Dude you made me dizzy just watching your vid. Good video but Jezze dude take a breath and dont cut out every milla second of dead air!!!!!! Just my opinion lol lol
Two words from Billy Madison come to mind: SLOW DOWN!
Wow that's a great Idea. I love this. Maybe I will give it a try. Read the REPLY, it might save you some money.
Why not just use an RV water filter? They filter the water to 5 microns. Works for me, not perfect but way less expensive. Camco inline water filter. The reason I am posting this as a reply is because this advice has been removed/censored 2 times from this channel. I guess it is VERY good advice. Try a Camco 40631. cost is about 50 bucks, has replaceable filters.
Do you think it's worth getting certified for car detailing (going to a car detailing school) or it don't matter?
The only thing I would go to "School" for would be learning how to wax/polish/paint correct the right way. Its better to screw up on a test panel in school than having to tell your customer, "Hey I uhh may have went a little too deep with my cutting compound and uhh yeah the paint is a bit jacked now"
In my personal opinion (as someone who actually went out and got “certified”), no, it is not worth it. Did I particularly learn a new technique here and there throughout the course? Yes. But at least specifically in terms of monetarily, it wasn’t worth it. (Again, in my opinion). While taking the course I already knew how to execute on the majority of techniques discussed; also which compounds and polishes to use in certain applications/environments; i.e. humidity, etc. I’ve also been passionate about auto detailing for over 20 years now and just recently within the passed few years decided to leave my job, start a detailing company and work for myself once I felt like I had enough clients to sustain me. Go to your local junk yard and purchase a scrap hood and/or door and begin fine-tuning your technique and figure out after lightly scraping the panel with fine grit sand paper, which compounds and polishes achieve the best results, etc. (Which will not always be uniform across all makes/models, as the molecular integrity of the clear coat varies per manufacture). Going about it this way, you’ll at least be able to see for the most part which compounds and polishes work best. I would continue watching Luke here, and also take into consideration watching these others as well; IMJOSHV - Car Detailing and Reconditioning Tips, Detail Groove, Pan The Organizer, The Detail Geek, AMMO NYC, Stauffer Garage, M.A.D. DETAILING, Hawaii Detailing, Adam’s Polishes, P&S Detail Products Official, and Chemical Guys. There are others I could list, but those are some incredibly informative platforms that you can learn a ton from simply just by watching their videos. So in short, again, it is not worth it (in my opinion) to get “certified” when you can just come on here (RUclips) and watch detailing and reconditioning videos (from reputable sources), and accomplish phenomenal results. I say get out there and get started once you feel comfortable in your craft. Good luck!
School for it definitely isn’t worth it because as soon as you get a business license you’re technically certified. To learn how to do paint corrections do the following. Step 1: go to local junk yard and buy a few car hoods with clear coat in tact. Step 2: practice, practice, and more practice. With a DA polisher it’s pretty hard to screw it up.
@@SRTifiedRAM Sounds like you aren't the average customer for such a school. Most people with a power polisher and a Ferrari would commit a crime.