Gave them the benefit of the doubt and used the stock shocks for two years. If you bash hard they will break no matter what you do to them. Switched to traxxas maxx shocks and never had a problem again.
You notice any leaking from yours at all. I just installed these on my brand new roller and used 25wt oil...just testing on the bench cycling the suspension multiple times by hand...I can see fluid on the bottom cap clearly coming from the shock shaft. Not a ton..but enough were you can see the lower shaft is damp. You have this issue? Thanks for your reply and appreciate the help and informative vids!!
I can not figure out why I am still having "seepage" after cycling my shocks. I find that the bump stop is damp and the bottom of the spring retainer has oil on it after the TLR mod. I am running Associated Green Slime, Associated 25wt shock oil with a bladder up top, drilled cap as you did and have rebound set about 1/2 way. Rebuilt them twice now with two new sets of the TLR o-ring rings and its still happening. Can clean em and be dry as a bone. Half a battery pack later with no major jumps and there we go...seeping again. You are the MAN when it comes to the LMT. Been doing RC for 30 years myself and can not see any obvious reason causing this. Just dont like them seeping. Help Hetmanski!
Interesting info. Thanks for posting it. I just got my LMT working. I have 4 cell electronics in my roller. I really don't like how weak the springs in the shocks appear to be. I have the collar on them turned all the way down so they compress the spring as much as possible and it still doesn't lift my LMT all the way up. It still sags down a bit. I'm thinking of trying some Clodbuster springs which appear to be much thicker wire. I don't understand the part where you say these weak saggy springs are needed because there is no leverage on them due the design.
The reason why you have saggy springs is possibly because you have too much weight in the chassis. The springs are simply there to support the weight of the chassis. The LMT is designed around the weight and power of a 2-3S power system with a 550-size motor. If you add weight to the chassis, you have to increase the rate of the spring. Losi does sell a spring that is stiffer than stock. Having leverage acting on the spring (for example: a link mounted shock) is able to compress the spring/shock easier than if it was on the axle which has no leverage acting on the shock. The axle is basically a 1:1 ratio while a link mounted shock may have a 1.5:1 or 2:1 ratio acting on it. A 1lb spring on the axle needs 1 pound of force to compress it while a 1-pound spring with a 2:1 ratio with the leverage can be compressed with only a half-pound of pressure.
On my LMT, the left front shock compresses completely when I drive in reverse, more than the right. I changed them to emulsion style and already tried swapping the left and right shock. The LMT is stock, except for the Treal sway bar and Demolisher tires. Could the sway bar be causing this? I don't think the shocks are the issue, as I swapped them from left to right and the problem persists.
The sway bars control the side-to-side motion of the chassis, not the shocks. Depending on how the shocks are mounted, they could add a little bit of support but it's not worth talking about. The driveshafts are what really causes the chassis to twist and depending on grip level, weight of the chassis and so on, the amount the chassis wants to twist can be more or less. I would check the sway bars on the truck to make sure they're working correctly. Sadly, most people change the stock sway bar which is a big mistake because the stock system is the most adjustable one around. You can change the end bar material, the end bar length, the end bar thickness and the list goes on. When you install an aftermarket sway bar (in this case) you actually limit the adjustability of the sway bar and therefore may not be able to manage chassis twist in some conditions. When it comes to the shocks.....Building the shocks with a bladder or emulsion style doesn't really change the feel of the shock. The difference there is that a bladder shock is always ready to go while an emulsion shock needs to be "worked" a little while before it has a consistent feel.
@@kevsbench01 Thank you for your detailed response :) If the problem persists after I rebuild it, I will change back to the stock sway bar. Alternatively, would it help to use a more flexible spring steel rod?
@@hansnsnananna3933 replace the stock end bars with music wire/spring steel. Make them a little longer than stock to give yourself more adjustment. Make them long and they will be softer and make them short and they will be stiffer. You can easily fine tune the length. Thicker bars will make it stiffer and thinner bars will make it softer.
Great video 👍👍 I'm getting ready to swap out the o rings in my lmt shocks Question Do you run rebound or no rebound in your lmt shocks Keep up the great videos
I run a dead shock. No rebound. There's no reason to have a shock apply any pressure to the suspension. It's simply there to control how fast the suspension moves in each direction.
Do you run emulsion or bladder shocks? Does the answer change for link mount vs axle mount shocks? What size vents do you use on your wheels? I ask because it can affect rebound tuning….
The stock springs on my stock lmt shocks kinda rubs on the shock body when going up n down.. i even fitted new springs to see if it would help but its the same.. it sounds bad when you sit with the truck and its not exactly making the damping better. What to do?
The outside dia of the shock body is a little large for the inside dia of the spring and the deflection when compressed is causing the issue. Unfortunately, there's nothi8ng you can do about that. The rubbing of the spring really won't cause an issue with the suspension. If the rubbing is something that you really dislike, you can change to Pro-Line PowerStroke XT shocks and use the stock Losi LMT springs. I have that setup on my race truck and the springs don't rub.
Building my LMT roller to be a nice clean freestyle rig. I just got the new seal kit and am going to rebuild the stock shocks and keep the bladder. Where is the best spot to put the bleeder hole in the cap and what size should it be? Will it cause any leaking of the shock?
You can clearly see where to put the hold in the video. It doesn't have to be very large. You just need a place for the oil to go when bleeding the shock. It will not cause leaking because the shock cap is tightened and therefore sealed when the bleeding is done.
Gave them the benefit of the doubt and used the stock shocks for two years. If you bash hard they will break no matter what you do to them. Switched to traxxas maxx shocks and never had a problem again.
Top tips! Thanks man. Love your experience with theses and cost effective methods of improvement.
It’s slowed me down buying bing parts unnecessary 😂
Glad I could help.
Really nice video here!
We need some links in the video description to the o-rings and spacers you were referring to.
Added!
Thank you for making this video!! Best LMT info out there!!
Yeah first thing I do do all my shocks green slime works great appreciate your sharing I follow for more
I tried searching for that shock or o ring for the TLR 480 and didnt find anything? I did just see your link though. Great video thank you.
Would have been great to get some info on the different characteristics of bladder vs emulsion builds.
Here’s the easy answer…….you’ll never notice the difference.
You notice any leaking from yours at all. I just installed these on my brand new roller and used 25wt oil...just testing on the bench cycling the suspension multiple times by hand...I can see fluid on the bottom cap clearly coming from the shock shaft. Not a ton..but enough were you can see the lower shaft is damp. You have this issue? Thanks for your reply and appreciate the help and informative vids!!
I haven't had any leaking on my shocks. Glad you like the vids, there's a lot more to come. Tell your friends!
I can not figure out why I am still having "seepage" after cycling my shocks. I find that the bump stop is damp and the bottom of the spring retainer has oil on it after the TLR mod. I am running Associated Green Slime, Associated 25wt shock oil with a bladder up top, drilled cap as you did and have rebound set about 1/2 way. Rebuilt them twice now with two new sets of the TLR o-ring rings and its still happening. Can clean em and be dry as a bone. Half a battery pack later with no major jumps and there we go...seeping again. You are the MAN when it comes to the LMT. Been doing RC for 30 years myself and can not see any obvious reason causing this. Just dont like them seeping. Help Hetmanski!
To confirm, when converting to emulsion, the o-ring sits in the shock cap or shock body?
When you convert you need to remove the bladder and install the o-ring under the shock cap. The o-ring is there to seal the cap and keep the oil in.
Interesting info. Thanks for posting it.
I just got my LMT working. I have 4 cell electronics in my roller. I really don't like how weak the springs in the shocks appear to be. I have the collar on them turned all the way down so they compress the spring as much as possible and it still doesn't lift my LMT all the way up. It still sags down a bit. I'm thinking of trying some Clodbuster springs which appear to be much thicker wire.
I don't understand the part where you say these weak saggy springs are needed because there is no leverage on them due the design.
The reason why you have saggy springs is possibly because you have too much weight in the chassis. The springs are simply there to support the weight of the chassis. The LMT is designed around the weight and power of a 2-3S power system with a 550-size motor. If you add weight to the chassis, you have to increase the rate of the spring. Losi does sell a spring that is stiffer than stock.
Having leverage acting on the spring (for example: a link mounted shock) is able to compress the spring/shock easier than if it was on the axle which has no leverage acting on the shock. The axle is basically a 1:1 ratio while a link mounted shock may have a 1.5:1 or 2:1 ratio acting on it. A 1lb spring on the axle needs 1 pound of force to compress it while a 1-pound spring with a 2:1 ratio with the leverage can be compressed with only a half-pound of pressure.
@@kevsbench01 Thanks for the excellent info!
Great info for the LMT shocks. Thanks
On my LMT, the left front shock compresses completely when I drive in reverse, more than the right. I changed them to emulsion style and already tried swapping the left and right shock. The LMT is stock, except for the Treal sway bar and Demolisher tires. Could the sway bar be causing this? I don't think the shocks are the issue, as I swapped them from left to right and the problem persists.
The sway bars control the side-to-side motion of the chassis, not the shocks. Depending on how the shocks are mounted, they could add a little bit of support but it's not worth talking about. The driveshafts are what really causes the chassis to twist and depending on grip level, weight of the chassis and so on, the amount the chassis wants to twist can be more or less. I would check the sway bars on the truck to make sure they're working correctly. Sadly, most people change the stock sway bar which is a big mistake because the stock system is the most adjustable one around. You can change the end bar material, the end bar length, the end bar thickness and the list goes on. When you install an aftermarket sway bar (in this case) you actually limit the adjustability of the sway bar and therefore may not be able to manage chassis twist in some conditions. When it comes to the shocks.....Building the shocks with a bladder or emulsion style doesn't really change the feel of the shock. The difference there is that a bladder shock is always ready to go while an emulsion shock needs to be "worked" a little while before it has a consistent feel.
@@kevsbench01 Thank you for your detailed response :) If the problem persists after I rebuild it, I will change back to the stock sway bar. Alternatively, would it help to use a more flexible spring steel rod?
@@hansnsnananna3933 replace the stock end bars with music wire/spring steel. Make them a little longer than stock to give yourself more adjustment. Make them long and they will be softer and make them short and they will be stiffer. You can easily fine tune the length. Thicker bars will make it stiffer and thinner bars will make it softer.
Great video 👍👍 I'm getting ready to swap out the o rings in my lmt shocks
Question Do you run rebound or no rebound in your lmt shocks
Keep up the great videos
I run a dead shock. No rebound. There's no reason to have a shock apply any pressure to the suspension. It's simply there to control how fast the suspension moves in each direction.
@@kevsbench01 Thank you very much 👍
Great video. Thanks for the advice.
Great video. I am planning to race my 2s LMT, how much rebound would you run? Medium grip. Thanks
Right now, I don't limit rebound at all. I may mess with it in the future.
Do you run emulsion or bladder shocks? Does the answer change for link mount vs axle mount shocks?
What size vents do you use on your wheels? I ask because it can affect rebound tuning….
I like to run bladder shocks no matter what the shocks are on. And I run whatever vent that comes in the stock LMT and JConcepts wheel.
The stock springs on my stock lmt shocks kinda rubs on the shock body when going up n down.. i even fitted new springs to see if it would help but its the same.. it sounds bad when you sit with the truck and its not exactly making the damping better.
What to do?
The outside dia of the shock body is a little large for the inside dia of the spring and the deflection when compressed is causing the issue. Unfortunately, there's nothi8ng you can do about that. The rubbing of the spring really won't cause an issue with the suspension. If the rubbing is something that you really dislike, you can change to Pro-Line PowerStroke XT shocks and use the stock Losi LMT springs. I have that setup on my race truck and the springs don't rub.
wish mine would not have yanked the shock shaft out of the rod end on first drive wish i knew to check them before i drove it
Great video
Building my LMT roller to be a nice clean freestyle rig. I just got the new seal kit and am going to rebuild the stock shocks and keep the bladder. Where is the best spot to put the bleeder hole in the cap and what size should it be? Will it cause any leaking of the shock?
You can clearly see where to put the hold in the video. It doesn't have to be very large. You just need a place for the oil to go when bleeding the shock. It will not cause leaking because the shock cap is tightened and therefore sealed when the bleeding is done.
GREAT INFO 😉🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Wow why would they wrong sized shafts in the shocks
It's not the shaft. The O-rings are not the correct size.
@@kevsbench01 I meant length. I’ve never seen a shock shaft. I’ve never seen a factory shock that does that
First