Making Copper Branches With a T-Drill!
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- The Plumbing industry is chock-full of fascinating tools!
Take for example, the sporadic yet seemingly-benign T-drill:
Looks like a drill. Acts like a drill...But its function provides SO MUCH MORE!
If you're in the plumbing trade and ever had to construct several multiple copper branch outlets, you'd find this little gem to be a Godsend. And it's fun to use, too!
Hope you enjoy watching this video as much as I did making it!
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I was surprised by the fast pulling speed. The machines I used to use drilled fast but the actual pulling speed was much slower.
Yeah, it's pretty quick. There are two speeds to control the extrusion.
Fantastic!
Great example! Thank you for the video
My pleasure!
A great lesson in how to stretch a 3 minute video into 12 minutes
Me thinks sarcasm is in the works. 🤔
Thanks
Very cool!
Glad you liked it! My goal is to publish more interesting videos that can be of use to you in the plumbing field!
This was pretty freakin' awesome!
Thanks! More to come!!
I have no need to make a manifold whatsoever as only occasionally do home repairs, but those two tools are fantastic, never ever seen anything like it!
This is a very cool channel.
Thanks again! Yes, it's a very specialized tool indeed, and not for everyone. Coincidentally, I was discussing this very tool with my students last week, and it was fun to watch their jaws drop after telling them that the price for a new T-drill is upwards of CN$10,000 (£6,500)! 😲
@@PlumbingsCool Wow that's expensive! Mind you, I bet they've sold loads!. For the ordinary DIY enthusiast and semi-pro's... that bit that splays out to form a T joint would be a very useful thing to have!! 😊
A suggestion for new content on your channel... hardening of copper and annealing and reasons when or if it needs to be done? Thank you.
Yeah, a niche product indeed. T-drill's been around a while, so they're business remains sustainable. Incidentally, I was honoured to have been contacted by a T-drill representative in the US shortly following the release of this video, requesting if they could use it as part of their training. Not sure if they still use it, but it's here if they need it!
I'll consider the annealing video idea, thank you. Truthfully though, we don't really anneal that much and usually use the pipe as is - with the exception of these rare circumstances where modifying is more easily rendered by annealing (predominantly swaging, flaring, bending). Nonetheless, I'll add it to my list - perhaps consider it for a Short, or possibly incorporate it into a video as a sidebar!
interesting, welldone
Thank you!!! 🙏
Pretty cool
It's an impressive machine indeed!
Yes sir it is. Worth the penny
That was very interesting. Never heard of this before. All of my work is domestic though, so it's always 3/4" tees reducing to 1/2" x number of radiators or draw offs required.
Yeah, I reckon you'd need to install quite a few rads to justify the cost of this puppy (upwards of 10G's here in Canada!) 😳
Thanks for watching!
Muito boa ferramenta a bandagem por indução ficaria um trabalho final sensacional
( Brasil )
Grazie!...saluti dal Canada!
Wow! The moment I see this tool I feel like I’m going to own one for sure.
Yes, it's an awesome tool indeed!...however, you might want to crunch some numbers to make sure that you'll be drilling enough manifolds to justify its five-figure price tag! 😲
Thanks for watching!
Where do you purchase the manifold you're holding?
Hi there. Not sure where you're located, but here in Ontario, Canada, we can usually just pick it up from a reputable plumbing supplier, such as Next Plumbing & Hydronics, Noble Trade, or Wolseley Plumbing & HVAC. Here It's referred to as an "Alberta Tee" (presumably named after one of our Canadian provinces). Hope that helps!
Is there a different tool used in HVAC? Pressure sensor switches have a bump ring and seem to slide into a straight hole - do you know T joints are done in HVAC?
Hi, and thanks for the comment! As HVAC is NOT my expertise, my knowledge in that field only skims the surface. When I think of HVAC, all that comes to mind for copper applications are the high and low linesets for air conditioning systems, which I don't think would require any Teeing off. Other than for sheet metal air supplies and returns, I wouldn't know where the HVAC folks would be making any branch connections (shows how little I know about HVAC!). Perhaps someone more well-versed in the field can chime in to help this person out?
I believe someone is selling these as a separate tool to create the collar. It did not look near as expensive and you could chuck it in your drill to create the exact hole and the collar, after drilling in a smaller hole first.
Is anyone aware of what this is called and what it cost? It is not a complete dedicated drill but an accessory for your own regular drill. Thanks for sharing video.
If your purpose is only to occasionally make a few branch outlets, then a cheaper, alternative solution would certainly be your best bet (T-Drills are definitely not cheap!). Only remember that you may need to find a way to notch and dimple your branch pipe to ensure that you don't restrict flow within the manifold.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
EDIT:
The universe works in mysterious ways...Literally immediately following my initial reply to you, one of my current students emailed me this alternative to T-drilling. I've never used it before, but it may serve your needs:
ruclips.net/user/shortsFAH-aapkcAY?feature=share
That's where I saw it. Thanks for sharing and recall as it is a good option for occasional tee work.
Ah, I see. I'll keep my eyes open and will let you know if I come across some useful information.
Seen this on commercial toilet carriers and manifold didn't know it was still done
They're cost effective only if you routinely manufacture a lot (and I mean A LOT!) of copper manifold systems on site, thereby saving significantly in fittings and labour. Never saw T-drills used for carriers; I'd be curious to see how that would apply.
Thanks for your feedback! !
well done, you should be an instructor!
LOL...Thank you! Let's hope all my Apprenticeship students agree! 😁
T-Drill also makes a big, stationary collaring unit. But they're probably $100K. We had one at a refrigeration company where I did maintenance a few years ago. T-Drill also makes a tube spinner that closes the ends of tubing by spinning it really fast into a die, heating it up. Another $100K+ machine, so you won't be getting your hands on one, but it's cool to watch these machines in action.
Not 100k? They’re About 12-19k
@@xnzhaua2932 Not sure which one that you're thinking about, but the one that we had was well over $100K.
Do any of the big box stores rent these out?
Hi Eric, I would guess you'd be hard-pressed to find one of these bad boys available for rent a big box store, as they are a bit of a specialty item. Also, as these are upwards of $10k each here in Canada, the stores would need to rent it for a decent amount to ensure they make a return on it (not to mention maintenance and repair costs).
@@PlumbingsCool wow! I imagine not. So, in a non-pressurized environment, could I drill a 1/2” hole in a 2” pipe and solder in a short length of pipe? Would that work without leaking? Thanks in advance for any information!
@@ericwinchester4778 Yes, for all intents and purposes, it will certainly work if done correctly, but there are many things to consider - mainly for what purpose you're tapping the pipe.
Foremost, if it's for a plumbing-related application, what you're trying to accomplish may be against Code. Here in Ontario, there are only a handful of applications (and methods) which allow you to legally drill into a drainage or water pressure pipe.
Second, be sure to BRAZE your joint, which is much stronger than soft soldering - especially since there's so little surface contact between the drilled 2" pipe and the inserted 1/2" pipe. I have a video on brazing if you require some guidance. .
Also be aware that by simply drilling into the pipe, you won't get the extruded collar off the 2" pipe as you do with T-drilling, which provides added reinforcement.
And finally, remember that if you're drilling for 1/2" nominal pipe size, you'd require a 5/8" diameter bit, since nominal pipe size is referred to by its inside diameter. If in doubt, measure your pipe diameter before drilling. Hope this helps!
where can I purchase this tools
You'd need to go to a dedicated and specialized pipe tool supplier. You might be able to special-order one through a plumbing material supplier if you inquire with them. But be warned: One will set you back about ten thousand dollars or so!...it's one of those tools that pays off only if you plan on doing LOTS of manifolds!
Only for pro's at 10k plus !!!!!
Yes indeed!
That manifold would cost $175 on line.
Maybe...but buyer beware: Make sure that what you're buying is officially Approved to the plumbing Code governing your jurisdiction.
Link to brazing part?
Here you go:
Note that if you're brazing larger pipe (such as this 1-1/4" pipe shown in the video), you will save yourself a world of pain (and time) by using an Acetylene tip larger than the one I demonstrate here (which was the only tip I had in hand that day).
ruclips.net/video/FHQEn3o0_B0/видео.htmlsi=dgFNrnwC6xv9Gi3z
@@PlumbingsCool thanks. Great content.
Can't pull the same size branch from the tubing. One pipe size difference is debatable for some sizes
Good point. I absolutely agree, as a branch of the same diameter as the manifold would gut an opening that's the same width as the manifold! Not gonna end well.
A good rule of thumb would be to make the branch at least two pipe sizes smaller than the manifold. i.e., 1-1/4" manifold should accommodate no larger than 3/4" branches.
Thanks for your input!
@@PlumbingsCool That's what retired tradefolk do, cruise the web and comment on the old stuff............
🤣🤣🤣 Stick around!...we need your untapped wisdom!
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Powder?
You have to be doing a lot of this to warrant drill cost it’s clever but not viable so bad idea
You are one hundred percent correct. Here in Canada they're upwards of ten thousand dollars, so they're not really intended for the average handyman or do-it-yourselfer.
However, as is the case with all big-ticket items in any trade, such items often pay for themselves after one or two big jobs, and even become a necessity to the contractor. With a T-Drill, you're sacrificing the cost of the tool in exchange for labour (which is usually the lion's share of the cost) and some material (also expensive), and the manufacturers surely factor in the purchaser's long-term savings when pricing their tool on the market.
My general rule is to always do a quick break-even analysis when purchasing a major item, to determine whether the return is worth the investment. If the math makes sense, then I won't even flinch in purchasing it, regardless of upfront cost.
Cool tool. But your explanation of how to use the tool was horribly annoying. Maybe you should take on a children's show. You explained it like you were teaching a kindergarten class.
Maybe it's just that we're not as smart as you are. Thanks for stopping by.