Links to the tools I use are in the description! Hello and thank you for stopping by! If you enjoy the video please consider subscribing, I would truly appreciate it!
Thank you! This video was the longest one I’ve made and I wasn’t super happy with the voice pacing but I learned a lot from the process and how to improve it for the next video… Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate it. 🙌
I’d like to add that getting an air quality monitor for where the resin printing is going on. I’ve also used the resin that is for printing as the glue, using an UV light pen and with the resin on a hobby paint brush, spread that on where you want to glue it. Then use the UV light to cure it
Funny enough: even after several videos on PPE published and widely available there will be newcomers to the hobby asking on Reddit: "do I really need a respirator?" and "is resin really that bad?" :) Also please protect your eyes from UV using the flash light!
I had a section of this video talking about all of the “bad practices” I see all over Internet forums but ended up removing it 😆 Some of the stuff I see baffles me… And yes! You are absolutely right about the UV eye protection! I should’ve had included it in the video as well… I’m still pretty new to the video making process but I am learning with every post. Thank you for the comment I really appreciate it!
While it is easy to buy PPE and everyone should do that those questions are useful. Many people have limited space in their homes and, myself included, are wondering where it is safe enough to print.
@@ligametis You want to have it in a dedicated workstation and Keep it away from “living” spaces… Make sure you have adequate airflow and clean air ventilating through the space. You could do this with an open garage recycling the air with fans or with a dedicated ventilation system that removes the air from the workspace. DO NOT try and print in your room, the smell alone from the resin and isopropyl gases will overwhelm the space. There are a lot of useful videos on YT that cover airflow safety for printing setups… Grow tents with ventilation are great if you are limited on space. Some machines also have a hole in the back of the cover to run a ventilation hose straight outdoors. Do your own research though and decide what is best for you… A big thing I have learned with resin printing is that it helps to plan 5 steps ahead to keep yourself safe and organized and to lessen the chance of mistakes. Hope this helps, Thanks for the comment!
@@GeorgMierau so pretty much nobody can print resin as most live in apartments PR smaller houses. At least in Europe. Maybe a garage, but that usually is not heated or well ventilated.
Had to Sub You are providing me just the right information I was looking for. I don't have a resin printer yet but am gathering as much information and purchasing everything step by step. I am not interested in miniatures so when you stated the sizes you are processing you got my attention btw printing and painting miniatures is also great but aging eyes can deal with larger scale models thank you for your time and sharing.
@@aberodriguez4149 Thank you! Glad to help. Getting the information first is a smart move, printing the models is only part of the process with resin printing. Do you have any printers in mind that you are thinking of getting?
@@ResinForge I have placed an order for a open box UNIFORMATION GKTWO Resin Printer a mid size printer as the PHOTON MONO M5. I chose this printer due to the temperature control feature and printing volume capacity. Thank you for sharing these helpful processes of resin 3D post processing.
@@aberodriguez4149 Very solid choice, especially if you got a good deal on it being open box. From what I have seen the GKTWO is as hassle free as it gets and has a great mid range build volume for 1/6 scale models. You are welcome! Thanks for the sub and commenting I really appreciate it.
@@ApolloGaming00 Haha same! 😆 I love the process though I just need to get better about storage space 🫠 I bought a 3TB External Drive and it filled up in like 3 weeks
For general safety this is a fantastic video and I will be sharing this with people that I get into 3d printing. But I do want to add the need for a dedicated space and ventilation (dont print in your bed room please people). But you can actually also go further and reduce the fumes/toxins you release by a significant amount if you use a grow tent and in line fan set up. A grow tent can be bought for cheaper than a dedicated resin printer enclosure and you can get really big ones. Mine is about 4 ft wide 5ft tall and 2 ft wide. I have found a table that fits inside of it to give me more usable room. So I have 3 printers on the floor and another printer on the table where I also keep my cleaning and curing station (with enough left over room to comfortably remove supports/anything else I might need to do). This makes it so that the contaminated area is just within that grow tent and nothing nasty ever leaves it. I have 2 in line fans. One that runs 24/7 that's used to create negative pressure and a second one I activate when I have the door open that's situated over the wash station to catch any IPA fumes. I have run tests with several air quality meters and have found this set up stops >99% of VoCs from spreading beyond the grow tent. Note: If you dont use the printer for a while (like a month) I'd just spend 20mins to an hour with the fan running just to clear out any out gassing.
This is ALL superb advice! Proper ventilation is a must have for resin printing… Reiterating what you said DO NOT PRINT IN YOUR BEDROOM people Taking notes to address this in future videos Thank you for taking the time to comment about this!
Since I only have a small Apartment, I have to print in the Kitchen, but I do it during the day when I'm at work and ventilate it when I get home, which works very well since it's a Corner Apartment. 😁
@@wakkru Strongly consider getting a $40 grow tent to house the printer and a $30 fan with some tubing to properly ventilate. Bedroom and kitchen printing is yikes! But seriously for the cost of 2-3 bottles of resin you can increase your safety by orders of magnitude.
to add onto your spatula section, it may seem super simple and obvious but we you try and use your tool to pull up the purge sheet from the vat go for the bottom right corner do not try and pick at long edges your spatula will slip and you sling resin all over you machine. hold your spatula upright and feel along the edge til you find the corner.
Great tip 👍 I usually empty the resin out of the vat with a big plastic syringe so I can see the corners better for that exact reason… Thanks for the comment TBONE 🙌
@@ResinForge I have a very small work space so I gotta keep it minimal work flow but i ofcourse do that same as you where i feel around with spatula to make sure i didn't miss anything . Keep uo the great work dude
One thing I've heard cuts down on cleaning price is to do a 2 tank cleaning system. You can let one get a bit more gross than you would normally like because your parts will get a second final bath in a separate bath. I liked this video a lot as a beginner. I will have to watch your sanding video!
@@mike0rrGreat tip! I do a “pre-soak” in dirtier IPA before putting it in my wash and cure station but I should’ve elaborated more on it. Maybe in another video 😊 Thank you, I really appreciate it!
get a flexible build plate, then your prints just pop off with a snap. Also a wash&care machine is a game changer, completely change the workflow in an amazing way.
I am tempted to try one but I usually print very large/heavy prints (usually maxing out the y-axis) and have read of some failure points on prints at higher weights using flex plates. Completely agree with you on the wash and cure station! It makes the process much more streamlined. Thank you for the comment, I really appreciate it!
Great video! I pretty much use exactly the same tools you showed. The only thing I would recommend is trying Gorilla Epoxy instead of the super glue gel. It holds much better especially with miniatures that get handled a lot or dropped lol
I will have to try it out! I mainly print large models that sit when they are finished.. What is the drying time on it? Thank you for taking the time to comment I really appreciate it! 🙌
Super glue tends to run on me.never thought of the gel version. Gonna definitely buy that next.thanks for the tip. I purchased a wham bam flex plate and love it.just peel off and bend.prints pop off.i only print with water washables.the wify keeps an eye on my hobby spending and water is cheaper than ipa so i went with that option.i also print large items.not into minis.
It works amazing! Another tip with the gel is to buy it in the plastic clear bottle form… I have used the super glue gel in the little tubes and they weirdly always try and push glue out whenever the cap is off, even when you set it down the glue will still drip out. (Hope that makes sense) I have heard nothing but good things about flex plates but have never purchased one… Maybe when I get a new machine I will get one and try it out 😁 Gotta keep the cost down where we can! Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it 🙌
hi, really good video! since this is the internet i'd obviously like to add my own knowledge/opinion! - you need to add particle filters to you respirator (a little FFP2 cloth that goes on top), otherwise you shouldnt use it for sanding - "wash your hands" with the thicker gloves on using IPA, (thin gloves only last ~10minuites with IPA contact, check permeation data if available) - toilet paper is already in small pieces and available in extra soft
@@ResinForge i use thicker nitril gloves because the thin ones allow the IPA solvent to permeate relatively quickly. To prevent Resin curing on them over time, i give them a quick wash with IPA after using them and wipe them dry with a old rag (Like washing your hands, Just with the gloves still on your hands)
@@TheZahnputz Oohh got it… I tried a thicker glove for “re-use” and wasn’t a fan. Now I just use the nitrile gloves and throw them away after. I usually never have them on for more than a few minutes depending on what I am doing. Thanks for the tip!
Get cellulose lint free wipes. A single pack of 300 is about $18 and I've used less than half of them after 2 years. They are perfect for cleaning a screen or a FEP because they dont leave behind fibers and they are soft enough to not scratch up the FEP/screen. Dont use them for general cleaning though. Also to keep your self safe during sanding you need to put in those n95 covers over the 3m mask's filters. The charcoal of the filter isn't rated for dust particles. Also for accelerant for super glue - use baking soda. It strengthens the glue and gives it some volume. Just dont mix them before you apply the glue since the soda will cause the glue to set instantly. Its a great alternative to super glue gel.
Great tips! Everyone always says to use micro fibers when cleaning your FEP but I had that EXACT issue with it leaving fibers behind so I switched to using an old T-shirt that I cut up into squares… The cellulose wipes are probably a better option 😆 Thanks for such an informative comment, I really appreciate it!
It’s from Star Wars 3D Models, it was included as a “freebie” on B3DSERK Studios Patreon 😊 They will sometimes include files from Wicked/Star Wars 3D starwars3dmodels.gumroad.com/l/DarthS
Great suggestions! You should check out our video on the tools we use for removing parts from our Formlabs build plates. Those tools have become invaluable and have been some of the best money ive spent on tools. Coupled with a side cutter snip and scrape technique, it's a bomb proof combo
can u pls make a video about curing? How long does the statue needs to be cured under UV light. Coz I have seen in some videos where they say, Too much curing can lead to resin being brittle.
Yes I should have one out in the next few weeks! Too much UV exposure can make your prints overly hard and brittle. Curing all depends on size and resin color and how strong your UV light source is. Are you using a curing station or a homemade setup? These are the average curing times I usually use with a curing station: 3-5 minutes on very small prints 6-8 minutes on small-medium size prints 10+ minutes on very large pieces Lighter and clear resins will cure faster than darker resin Hope this helped a bit for now! Thank you for the comment I appreciate it 🙌
In this clip I am using a 1 inch sanding pad that I bought on Amazon and the stock attachment that came with the Dremel, you just have to poke a hole in the center of it to get it to fit. 1 Inch Sanding Pads: amzn.to/4alA9u0 (These are the pads I used in the video, they do NOT come with a center hole so you need to poke your own every time you change the sandpaper out... The metal attachment is also too large for the small Dremel but the pads fit fine on the one that comes with the Dremel) Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it! Let me know if you have any other questions
90% or higher IPA becomes something like 70% pretty rapidly unless you store it in a very airtight container, it absorbs water from the air very readily. Dont' waste money on it if you aren't going to store it in a way that keeps it high concentration.
I was unaware of this since mine were already fat32 formatted but I got this response from Google. "You can use FAT32 to format your SD card with a space larger than 32 GB using Command Prompt or a FAT32 Format Tool"
It can be kind of tricky… I leave the release film on that comes with the screen protector and just pull back a tiny bit from underneath on one side. Press the side where the release film is peeled back and then smooth it out in sections with a credit card, if there is bubbles you can lift it back a bit and smooth it out again. Work in small sections slowly peeling back the release film from underneath as you smooth it out with the card. It’s kind of hard to explain in a message haha but this is what has worked best for me, once I receive a new machine or need to replace mine again I will make a video on it! Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
@@ResinForge thnx for takin time to respond...i Just have a couple of screen protectors waiting to be wasted away so i ll give It another try by following your tips!!
You are saving lives with these tips. I cant say it enough on how dangerous this hobby is. Manufacturers are putting carbon filters that only filters out SMELL, not VOCS. It's dangerous! WEAR PROTECTION AS IF YOU'RE DOING A SERIOUS JOB!
Regarding IPA: Why? There is waterwashable resin available at the same price as the stuff you have to use IPA for, and using tap water to clean the prints makes for a less stinky process. Oh, and you can toss the water in a transluscent tub with a grid lid or similar, put it outside and let the water evaporate and the resin cure in daylight. No, I just don't understand IPA use...
I always tell everyone to do what works best for them. It’s all personal preference and different prints require different cleaning styles. IPA is my preferred cleaning method. I print a lot 1/6 scale prints that require a lot of cleaning and post processing. I need the prints to be cleaned and cured as quickly as possible to start post processing. IPA cleans thoroughly and evaporates and dries in minutes, which allows me to quickly cure the models after they dry. I also like having IPA on hand for any messes that come with the printing process. Resin is Resin whether it’s water washable or not and messes will happen. I have also read that water washables tend to be more brittle than traditional resin, causing warping with prints and cracking over time, although it’s hard to find a direct answer on it. I personally have no experience with water washables but I would be interested in testing it in the future.
@@ResinForge Well, I don't know about how brittle it is - I just print stuff for modelling and such, not anything that is to be handled a lot, so for that, I have no idea. You are right however that IPA washing is quicker - I usually dedicate a few hours for drying, but then again, I don't print commercially, so time is not important.
I’m having an issue with this. I formatted my usb to fat 32 and my printer doesn’t see the files. I’m using a PNY 32 gB stick. Does the size ( 😂 ) matters? Thanks
@@Lungshot420 Size can matter 😂 but 32GB should be fine if it’s formatted… What printer do you have? Are you slicing the file directly to the USB or to your computer first? 🤔
@@ResinForge I bought a used Anycubic Photon M5s pro. Didn’t come with a usb. The slicer I used was chitubox. But since I have the printer in a remote location I have to run back n forth between pc n printer. But my old MacBook I was able to install Anycubic work station. And sort of print models successfully using remote print but it’s hard as heck to get (wicked Patreon) models to print successfully through workshop. I want to use other slicers but i was having the usb problems. And since I’ve been at least learning how my printer works I didn’t care until I heard from anyone about this. Couldn’t find anything on google. Sure YT has vids of formatting but none ever said if the size matter because I know so software can’t run on a certain size usb. Thank you for your time and sorry for the long message
@@Lungshot420 I was not the biggest fan of Photon Workshop and I don't have any experience with the remote print features... When you use Chitubox are you using a default profile for the M5s Pro? When you slice in Chitubox for the m5s the file needs to convert format from a STL or 3d Object File to a (.pm5s) Program PhotonWorkShop file for the printer to recognize it. It takes a while but I would rather wait than use Photon Workshop. The first time I sliced a file for the m5s in Chitubox I thought my computer froze cause the file conversion takes so long but you just have to wait it out.. Hope this helps a bit for now! I will keep poking around today to see if I can give you some more info
Links to the tools I use are in the description!
Hello and thank you for stopping by!
If you enjoy the video please consider subscribing, I would truly appreciate it!
I've been enjoying your videos man. Good pacing and editing. Voice is nice and clear. Keep up the good work man.
Thank you! This video was the longest one I’ve made and I wasn’t super happy with the voice pacing but I learned a lot from the process and how to improve it for the next video…
Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate it. 🙌
I’d like to add that getting an air quality monitor for where the resin printing is going on. I’ve also used the resin that is for printing as the glue, using an UV light pen and with the resin on a hobby paint brush, spread that on where you want to glue it. Then use the UV light to cure it
Funny enough: even after several videos on PPE published and widely available there will be newcomers to the hobby asking on Reddit: "do I really need a respirator?" and "is resin really that bad?" :) Also please protect your eyes from UV using the flash light!
I had a section of this video talking about all of the “bad practices” I see all over Internet forums but ended up removing it 😆
Some of the stuff I see baffles me…
And yes! You are absolutely right about the UV eye protection! I should’ve had included it in the video as well… I’m still pretty new to the video making process but I am learning with every post.
Thank you for the comment I really appreciate it!
While it is easy to buy PPE and everyone should do that those questions are useful. Many people have limited space in their homes and, myself included, are wondering where it is safe enough to print.
@@ligametis You want to have it in a dedicated workstation and Keep it away from “living” spaces… Make sure you have adequate airflow and clean air ventilating through the space. You could do this with an open garage recycling the air with fans or with a dedicated ventilation system that removes the air from the workspace. DO NOT try and print in your room, the smell alone from the resin and isopropyl gases will overwhelm the space. There are a lot of useful videos on YT that cover airflow safety for printing setups… Grow tents with ventilation are great if you are limited on space. Some machines also have a hole in the back of the cover to run a ventilation hose straight outdoors. Do your own research though and decide what is best for you… A big thing I have learned with resin printing is that it helps to plan 5 steps ahead to keep yourself safe and organized and to lessen the chance of mistakes.
Hope this helps, Thanks for the comment!
@@ligametis No well isolated and ventilated dedicated space for resin, no resin printing. As simple as that.
@@GeorgMierau so pretty much nobody can print resin as most live in apartments PR smaller houses. At least in Europe. Maybe a garage, but that usually is not heated or well ventilated.
Thumbs up. This was most helpful.
Glad it helped! I appreciate the comment and thumbs up 👍
Awesome videos. This will be a great channel
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it, more videos coming soon
Thanks bro!
Hope it helped! Thanks for watching, I appreciate it
Amazing video man,
@@greedyDev Greetings! 👋 Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Had to Sub You are providing me just the right information I was looking for. I don't have a resin printer yet but am gathering as much information and purchasing everything step by step. I am not interested in miniatures so when you stated the sizes you are processing you got my attention btw printing and painting miniatures is also great but aging eyes can deal with larger scale models thank you for your time and sharing.
@@aberodriguez4149 Thank you! Glad to help.
Getting the information first is a smart move, printing the models is only part of the process with resin printing.
Do you have any printers in mind that you are thinking of getting?
@@ResinForge I have placed an order for a open box UNIFORMATION GKTWO Resin Printer a mid size printer as the PHOTON MONO M5. I chose this printer due to the temperature control feature and printing volume capacity. Thank you for sharing these helpful processes of resin 3D post processing.
@@aberodriguez4149 Very solid choice, especially if you got a good deal on it being open box.
From what I have seen the GKTWO is as hassle free as it gets and has a great mid range build volume for 1/6 scale models.
You are welcome! Thanks for the sub and commenting I really appreciate it.
Great advice! So much goes into what you're doing!
Thank you Apollo! 💙 Its all part of the fun 😁
@@ResinForge That's what I keep telling myself about editing! 😅
@@ApolloGaming00 Haha same! 😆 I love the process though I just need to get better about storage space 🫠 I bought a 3TB External Drive and it filled up in like 3 weeks
Very good advice!!!
@@JDJ1213 Thank you! I appreciate it 🙌
For general safety this is a fantastic video and I will be sharing this with people that I get into 3d printing. But I do want to add the need for a dedicated space and ventilation (dont print in your bed room please people). But you can actually also go further and reduce the fumes/toxins you release by a significant amount if you use a grow tent and in line fan set up.
A grow tent can be bought for cheaper than a dedicated resin printer enclosure and you can get really big ones. Mine is about 4 ft wide 5ft tall and 2 ft wide. I have found a table that fits inside of it to give me more usable room. So I have 3 printers on the floor and another printer on the table where I also keep my cleaning and curing station (with enough left over room to comfortably remove supports/anything else I might need to do). This makes it so that the contaminated area is just within that grow tent and nothing nasty ever leaves it.
I have 2 in line fans. One that runs 24/7 that's used to create negative pressure and a second one I activate when I have the door open that's situated over the wash station to catch any IPA fumes.
I have run tests with several air quality meters and have found this set up stops >99% of VoCs from spreading beyond the grow tent.
Note: If you dont use the printer for a while (like a month) I'd just spend 20mins to an hour with the fan running just to clear out any out gassing.
This is ALL superb advice!
Proper ventilation is a must have for resin printing… Reiterating what you said DO NOT PRINT IN YOUR BEDROOM people
Taking notes to address this in future videos
Thank you for taking the time to comment about this!
Since I only have a small Apartment, I have to print in the Kitchen, but I do it during the day when I'm at work and ventilate it when I get home, which works very well since it's a Corner Apartment.
😁
@@wakkru Strongly consider getting a $40 grow tent to house the printer and a $30 fan with some tubing to properly ventilate. Bedroom and kitchen printing is yikes!
But seriously for the cost of 2-3 bottles of resin you can increase your safety by orders of magnitude.
Some good advice here, that's a sub and a like :)
Thank you!! I really appreciate it 🙌
I use denatured alcohol for cleaning, its in the paint section and is about 20 dollars a gallon.
Very helpful thank you
@@anthonycolas473 Thank you for watching 😁
to add onto your spatula section, it may seem super simple and obvious but we you try and use your tool to pull up the purge sheet from the vat go for the bottom right corner do not try and pick at long edges your spatula will slip and you sling resin all over you machine. hold your spatula upright and feel along the edge til you find the corner.
Great tip 👍 I usually empty the resin out of the vat with a big plastic syringe so I can see the corners better for that exact reason… Thanks for the comment TBONE 🙌
@@ResinForge I have a very small work space so I gotta keep it minimal work flow but i ofcourse do that same as you where i feel around with spatula to make sure i didn't miss anything . Keep uo the great work dude
One thing I've heard cuts down on cleaning price is to do a 2 tank cleaning system. You can let one get a bit more gross than you would normally like because your parts will get a second final bath in a separate bath.
I liked this video a lot as a beginner. I will have to watch your sanding video!
@@mike0rrGreat tip!
I do a “pre-soak” in dirtier IPA before putting it in my wash and cure station but I should’ve elaborated more on it. Maybe in another video 😊
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
get a flexible build plate, then your prints just pop off with a snap. Also a wash&care machine is a game changer, completely change the workflow in an amazing way.
I am tempted to try one but I usually print very large/heavy prints (usually maxing out the y-axis) and have read of some failure points on prints at higher weights using flex plates.
Completely agree with you on the wash and cure station! It makes the process much more streamlined.
Thank you for the comment, I really appreciate it!
Great video! I pretty much use exactly the same tools you showed. The only thing I would recommend is trying Gorilla Epoxy instead of the super glue gel. It holds much better especially with miniatures that get handled a lot or dropped lol
I will have to try it out!
I mainly print large models that sit when they are finished..
What is the drying time on it?
Thank you for taking the time to comment I really appreciate it! 🙌
Super glue tends to run on me.never thought of the gel version. Gonna definitely buy that next.thanks for the tip.
I purchased a wham bam flex plate and love it.just peel off and bend.prints pop off.i only print with water washables.the wify keeps an eye on my hobby spending and water is cheaper than ipa so i went with that option.i also print large items.not into minis.
It works amazing! Another tip with the gel is to buy it in the plastic clear bottle form… I have used the super glue gel in the little tubes and they weirdly always try and push glue out whenever the cap is off, even when you set it down the glue will still drip out. (Hope that makes sense)
I have heard nothing but good things about flex plates but have never purchased one… Maybe when I get a new machine I will get one and try it out 😁 Gotta keep the cost down where we can!
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it 🙌
for cleaner, i use methyl hydrate. I get 4L for $15, it doesn't smell as harsh as ipa, and it works just as well
They have insta cure spray for cyanoacrylate glue. It works great.
hi, really good video! since this is the internet i'd obviously like to add my own knowledge/opinion!
- you need to add particle filters to you respirator (a little FFP2 cloth that goes on top), otherwise you shouldnt use it for sanding
- "wash your hands" with the thicker gloves on using IPA, (thin gloves only last ~10minuites with IPA contact, check permeation data if available)
- toilet paper is already in small pieces and available in extra soft
Thank you! More knowledge is always welcome! I am a little confused about the gloves comment, can you please elaborate? 🧤
@@ResinForge i use thicker nitril gloves because the thin ones allow the IPA solvent to permeate relatively quickly. To prevent Resin curing on them over time, i give them a quick wash with IPA after using them and wipe them dry with a old rag (Like washing your hands, Just with the gloves still on your hands)
@@TheZahnputz Oohh got it… I tried a thicker glove for “re-use” and wasn’t a fan. Now I just use the nitrile gloves and throw them away after. I usually never have them on for more than a few minutes depending on what I am doing. Thanks for the tip!
Take more time (+ipa) for buildplate removal and use a pvc spatula there as well to avoid nasty scratches.
Get cellulose lint free wipes. A single pack of 300 is about $18 and I've used less than half of them after 2 years. They are perfect for cleaning a screen or a FEP because they dont leave behind fibers and they are soft enough to not scratch up the FEP/screen. Dont use them for general cleaning though.
Also to keep your self safe during sanding you need to put in those n95 covers over the 3m mask's filters. The charcoal of the filter isn't rated for dust particles.
Also for accelerant for super glue - use baking soda. It strengthens the glue and gives it some volume. Just dont mix them before you apply the glue since the soda will cause the glue to set instantly. Its a great alternative to super glue gel.
Great tips!
Everyone always says to use micro fibers when cleaning your FEP but I had that EXACT issue with it leaving fibers behind so I switched to using an old T-shirt that I cut up into squares… The cellulose wipes are probably a better option 😆
Thanks for such an informative comment, I really appreciate it!
Hello its true i use the same tools, but can you link the star wars darth/light Raven stl pls?
It’s from Star Wars 3D Models, it was included as a “freebie” on B3DSERK Studios Patreon 😊 They will sometimes include files from Wicked/Star Wars 3D
starwars3dmodels.gumroad.com/l/DarthS
@@ResinForge thanks a lot instan love XD
@@AnarchicSpawn 💙
Great suggestions! You should check out our video on the tools we use for removing parts from our Formlabs build plates. Those tools have become invaluable and have been some of the best money ive spent on tools. Coupled with a side cutter snip and scrape technique, it's a bomb proof combo
can u pls make a video about curing? How long does the statue needs to be cured under UV light. Coz I have seen in some videos where they say, Too much curing can lead to resin being brittle.
Yes I should have one out in the next few weeks! Too much UV exposure can make your prints overly hard and brittle.
Curing all depends on size and resin color and how strong your UV light source is. Are you using a curing station or a homemade setup?
These are the average curing times I usually use with a curing station:
3-5 minutes on very small prints
6-8 minutes on small-medium size prints
10+ minutes on very large pieces
Lighter and clear resins will cure faster than darker resin
Hope this helped a bit for now! Thank you for the comment I appreciate it 🙌
I bought a Dremel for sanding too but have only ever seen Sanding barrels. What is that attachment you have?
In this clip I am using a 1 inch sanding pad that I bought on Amazon and the stock attachment that came with the Dremel, you just have to poke a hole in the center of it to get it to fit.
1 Inch Sanding Pads: amzn.to/4alA9u0
(These are the pads I used in the video, they do NOT come with a center hole so you need to poke your own every time you change the sandpaper out... The metal attachment is also too large for the small Dremel but the pads fit fine on the one that comes with the Dremel)
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
Let me know if you have any other questions
Tyvm. Love the channel!
@@jameswait5840 Thank you! 💙
Only difference between IPA % is the amount of water in it. Lower % takes longer to dry and better to kill germs. Higher % dries faster.
90% or higher IPA becomes something like 70% pretty rapidly unless you store it in a very airtight container, it absorbs water from the air very readily. Dont' waste money on it if you aren't going to store it in a way that keeps it high concentration.
hmm this is great advice. Going to save me a lot of cash.
note that the usb over 16go can't be formated to fat32
I was unaware of this since mine were already fat32 formatted but I got this response from Google.
"You can use FAT32 to format your SD card with a space larger than 32 GB using Command Prompt or a FAT32 Format Tool"
File Allocation Table - 32bit
Thank you 💙
I have never bene sucessfull on installing screen protector....i Always end up with bubbles..
It can be kind of tricky…
I leave the release film on that comes with the screen protector and just pull back a tiny bit from underneath on one side. Press the side where the release film is peeled back and then smooth it out in sections with a credit card, if there is bubbles you can lift it back a bit and smooth it out again. Work in small sections slowly peeling back the release film from underneath as you smooth it out with the card.
It’s kind of hard to explain in a message haha but this is what has worked best for me, once I receive a new machine or need to replace mine again I will make a video on it!
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
@@ResinForge thnx for takin time to respond...i Just have a couple of screen protectors waiting to be wasted away so i ll give It another try by following your tips!!
You are saving lives with these tips. I cant say it enough on how dangerous this hobby is. Manufacturers are putting carbon filters that only filters out SMELL, not VOCS. It's dangerous! WEAR PROTECTION AS IF YOU'RE DOING A SERIOUS JOB!
Regarding IPA: Why? There is waterwashable resin available at the same price as the stuff you have to use IPA for, and using tap water to clean the prints makes for a less stinky process. Oh, and you can toss the water in a transluscent tub with a grid lid or similar, put it outside and let the water evaporate and the resin cure in daylight.
No, I just don't understand IPA use...
I always tell everyone to do what works best for them. It’s all personal preference and different prints require different cleaning styles.
IPA is my preferred cleaning method. I print a lot 1/6 scale prints that require a lot of cleaning and post processing. I need the prints to be cleaned and cured as quickly as possible to start post processing. IPA cleans thoroughly and evaporates and dries in minutes, which allows me to quickly cure the models after they dry.
I also like having IPA on hand for any messes that come with the printing process. Resin is Resin whether it’s water washable or not and messes will happen.
I have also read that water washables tend to be more brittle than traditional resin, causing warping with prints and cracking over time, although it’s hard to find a direct answer on it. I personally have no experience with water washables but I would be interested in testing it in the future.
@@ResinForge Well, I don't know about how brittle it is - I just print stuff for modelling and such, not anything that is to be handled a lot, so for that, I have no idea. You are right however that IPA washing is quicker - I usually dedicate a few hours for drying, but then again, I don't print commercially, so time is not important.
easier to push the resin stuck on the fep from the bottom. dont scrap it
FAT == File Allocation Table
Thank you! 🫡
I’m having an issue with this. I formatted my usb to fat 32 and my printer doesn’t see the files. I’m using a PNY 32 gB stick. Does the size ( 😂 ) matters? Thanks
@@Lungshot420 Size can matter 😂 but 32GB should be fine if it’s formatted… What printer do you have? Are you slicing the file directly to the USB or to your computer first? 🤔
@@ResinForge I bought a used Anycubic Photon M5s pro. Didn’t come with a usb. The slicer I used was chitubox. But since I have the printer in a remote location I have to run back n forth between pc n printer. But my old MacBook I was able to install Anycubic work station. And sort of print models successfully using remote print but it’s hard as heck to get (wicked Patreon) models to print successfully through workshop. I want to use other slicers but i was having the usb problems. And since I’ve been at least learning how my printer works I didn’t care until I heard from anyone about this. Couldn’t find anything on google. Sure YT has vids of formatting but none ever said if the size matter because I know so software can’t run on a certain size usb. Thank you for your time and sorry for the long message
@@Lungshot420 I was not the biggest fan of Photon Workshop and I don't have any experience with the remote print features...
When you use Chitubox are you using a default profile for the M5s Pro?
When you slice in Chitubox for the m5s the file needs to convert format from a STL or 3d Object File to a (.pm5s) Program PhotonWorkShop file for the printer to recognize it. It takes a while but I would rather wait than use Photon Workshop.
The first time I sliced a file for the m5s in Chitubox I thought my computer froze cause the file conversion takes so long but you just have to wait it out..
Hope this helps a bit for now! I will keep poking around today to see if I can give you some more info