Sharpening Chisels And Plane Irons
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
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The safest tool is a sharp tool. Lots of woodworkers cringe at the idea of sharpening their plane irons, bench chisels, lathe chisels….because they’re afraid of ruining the tool.
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I thought Work Shop was a gimmick before seeing George’s demo in person. I’ve since acquired a Work Sharp. It’s saving me a ton of time, mess and elbow grease. Thank you George.
Thank You so much for the awesome information, I have this setup for now and it's incredible if you're just starting out sharpening. If you do have this setup you can buy higher grit levels thanks again
Good tips, I have the work sharp and love it
WHAT JIG WERE YOU USING TO MEASURE THE ANGLE?
I'm pretty sure the edges on my chisels will make you guys cringe, but that's why I'm here!
I know it's a bit too fussy but surely turning the angle when sharpening will give you a tiny change in angle...I guess the second stage eliminates this anyway :D
Thanks. Great site. I have only one question about the WS300, which I have enjoyed for years. I also enjoy using the Japanese water stones.
I have some very small and delicate chisels I wish to sharpen. I would like to slow the RPM’s. Most responses from dealers suggest NOT TO USE a rheostat with this unit. The WS3000 manufacturer people responded, recently, and to my amazement said: “SURE. You can try it”.
That was not re-assuring. (maybe a way to
boost sales).
Hoping you picked up on the truncated text. If so can you comment on my suggestion to reduce the speed on the
WS3000.
Thank you for a great, informative channel.
Respectfully, R
What are all of the grits you have on the glass wheels. I'm looking at buying the work sharp and wondering how many glass wheels I need to have. This was a helpful video - learned a few more things, thanks. Scott
+The 2 Car Garage Shop Scott, although George gets good results with sandpaper I recommend buying DMT's diamond discs. They sell two sets, Sharpening (coarse) and Honing (fine) that run cooler, last much longer, and give superior results. Whether you use paper or diamond discs I recommend two glass discs for abrasives and one for stropping with either leather (use green chromium oxide compound) or fabric (use diamond paste). For plane blades you will need the wide tool accessory table that George was using also.
+The 2 Car Garage Shop It depends on where you need to start with your sharpening, and how fine you want to take the tools. If your edges are bad and need reshaping and nicks removed, you probably need to start at 80-grit. For lathe chisels I sharpen up to 400. So two discs would handle this; 80/120 and 220/400. You can continue to hone up to 6000-grit, which you’d probably do with carving chisels. In that case you need more wheels to handle the 1000, 3600, and 6000 grits.
Thanks!! great information
Can this device be used to sharpen knife blades?
What is the brand name of the angle gauge and sharpening guide you show in the video?
+Richard Anderson I'd like to know the same thing
+Richard Anderson The sharpening guide is part of Worksharp’s Wide Blade Attachment and can be seen here www.worksharptools.com/parts-accessories/ws3000/wide-blade-attachment-for-ws3000.html (www.worksharptools.com/parts-accessories/ws3000/wide-blade-attachment-for-ws3000.html) The angle gauge is part of the kit. (ZD: 3352)
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America Thank you for the information and the speedy reply with the link.
very good Congratulations. What You Experience the sandpaper is paraffin?
+Alexandre Calderaro Hello and thank you for your question. Unfortunately we are not familiar with what you are inquiring about, and therefore we are not able to provide any firsthand perspective.
So it looks like work sharp discontinued the oversized attachment. Anyone know where I can get one?
I found one on ebay...but..heads up..cost me nearly as much as the worksharp
Where did you get the cast iron top and the bevel guide?
This is an older unit. These were available as part of various packages back when this was filmed. You can browse here and contact the manufacturer with questions about what might be available today: www.worksharptools.com/
Paul
@@Wwgoa I had the same question. How do I get a platform level with the platten so I can sharpen my plane blades. I also want that honing guide. Can't seem to find them.
The flat bit on top he uses with the honing jig doesn't exist anymore and hasn't for many years. Making the whole thing largely useless for my purposes, and I only find this out after purchasing it. Don't bother with it.
holy shit it’s hank hill
Deburring? What and how do you do that?
Hello. This is the process of removing the fine burr that is left behind after you hone a plane or chisel. If you feel the sharpened tip carefully you can detect a very fine burr that feels like a wire. You can remove that by laying it flat and lapping the back of the iron on a fine grit sandpaper.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
That's what I've always heard, George, and there's no question you do much better work with sharp tools. But I have to say I've never cut myself on dull tools, whereas with razor sharp tools I seem to end up wearing a lot of Band-aids :) So what evidence is that assertion based on exactly, please?
+Michael Anderson The problem with dull tools comes with forcing them to do their work, instead of letting them do their work. No empirical data, by any means, but from bench chisels to lathe chisels to table saw blades, in my experience using a dull tool is gonna be bad.
+Michael Anderson When you have to "force" a tool to do its job, you're more likely to lose control. "Dull" tools are still plenty sharp enough to puncture human skin. If you're cutting yourself on sharp tools, then perhaps you are not handling them correctly and need to review safety guidelines.
+Justin H You may be right. What you (and George) say is what I was taught many years ago. But I've always thought that it defies logic and my own experience. What has recently gotten me thinking about whether there was any evidence behind this belief is that I recently took a hand tool sharpening class in which the main method taught was Japanese water stones. The instructor said the same thing you and George (and everyone all the way back to my shop teacher) said. Nonetheless, pretty soon everyone in the class including the instructor was wearing one or more band-aids from cuts we mostly didn't know about until we noticed we were bleeding. But now I can do things I never thought possible with just a really sharp chisel, and hog off amazing amounts of wood fast and achieve finish-ready surfaces with really sharp planes. Anyway my experience seems to diverge from conventional wisdom here, so I was wondering whether it might be like another thing we were taught and I believed for a long time, to never set a hand plane down on its sole but instead lay it on its side, which has turned out to have no validity.
Michael ...the reason you get more injuries with sharp tool is that your mind and body got used to handle (doll) Tools and tou learn how to control them ... The quality and safety of dull vs sharp tool is defined in experience and education... not judging anyone or anything but my general rule that works for me.. 1st Educate yourself in tool you are attempting to use.. this part alone will provide you 90% of success....2nd Understand the difference when tools have to be super sharp and when not.. Every job requires different level of sharpness and you are only person that can decide that part.. I personally happened to be one of guys that get best quality, safety and results if my tools are sharp(er) when doing fine woodworking projects. My recommendation is to make simple box with few fine details ..etc. make one with dull tools and then one with sharp.. After that you will find your personal level how sharp is sharp..good luck and be safe
Ive never found the aphorism; -> a dull tool is more dangerous than a sharp one
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