I prefer these types of videos. It's the real deal, no pre-arrangements just, "This sucker doesn't work right and I've got to figure out how to fix it." That's real life. Good stuff.
I am an old mechanic from waaaay back and really envy your patience and tenacity. Not changing parts before knowing for sure what is the CAUSE. You are a fine example for your peers and those who in the future. Much ablige:):):):).
I get bitched at, at the shop sometimes for doing the "check every possibility" methodology you teach due to time, however, when no one else can figure it after throwing parts at it, it becomes my head ache and i get it every time. So thanks for what you do i have learned alot. Thinking outside the box, and approaching things from a different angle. Also, i am a devout "sccpe guy", i diagnose plugged cats with an in cylinder transducer doing running compression tests, home built transducer set up with tons of home made attachments. 15 years in the shop, and your vids inspired me to "up my game" by learning the scope about 3 or 4 years ago. Now its the first tool i grab for diagnostics, if i can figure out a way to do it.
@@ScannerDanner hey man I have a serious question if you can help me with 91 F-150 5.0 manual 2wd randomly between weeks months to years I don't know randomly the truck will fail the ECM brought burn it up destroy burn up ignition module on the side of the distributor burn it destroy or it will rarely get the coil do you have any suggestions to what I can start looking forward to try to fix this problem for good can you give me a general direction like look at the ignition module wires or the engine harness wire pin number maybe this could help ground on driver side under radiator I'm just saying anything this is my only vehicle man and it's going on two to three weeks being down and it is starting to really hurt my wallet and put me a very bad position so thanks for anyone anything plz
I saw the correct mark on the crank pulley at 3:52 minutes from beginning of the recording, it was the collected dust and oil which mislead you. I do not blame you as it happened to me as well. You are doing great, well done. It is a pleasure to watch your videos. Thank you very much
In some ways older vehicles can be harder to diagnose than newer ones. As you said, it is a lost art. There's nothing quite like the feeling of getting a "vintage" vehicle back on its feet, when most of its brothers are long gone to the junkyard in the sky :)
All that said I Rather have an older vehicle You don't have to take half the vehicle apart to get What Your after And you don't have to buy ten thousand dollars scanner either
Paul - YOU are a SUPER TECHNICIAN AND INSTRUCTOR. I do know that you can properly diagnose and repair any vehicle . I am 100 % sure that you have forgot more technical info than I even know and one of your greatest traits is you are honest and able to admit if you have overlooked some needed test or possibly missed something. That being said , there is NO DOUBT , you WILL ALWAYS find the problem. MANY , MANY THANKS for ALL the LIVE troubleshooting video's you post. 😊😊👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️🧐
You are a TRUE Tech. There are so many parts changers who think they know what they are doing. But don't know if their butt is bored or punched. Thank You!!
I like the way you explain your attitude toward customer expectation vs reality and charging out for your time, especially with vehicles that have multiple issues. I also like the way you emphasise road tests before and after repair, it can be difficult, especially when pressured for time. Really enjoying your videos on this and your premium channel, time and money well invested IMO. Keep up the good work Paul, you are an inspiration to your viewers. Doc...
Great video! We all appreciate all the sacrifices you make to bring us such great video content. I really like the "field" videos the most. I've been mechanic 13 years and learn a lot from you and your brother
Actually we could get data from the sensors,but not from the self test connector. The EEIV monitor hooked directly into the 60 pin ecm. It is like a break out box with a LED display. So it was live unprocessed data with a knob that rotated to view different sensors. Great video Paul, it brought back a lot of memories!
Any time you see a deep notch in a crank pulley that is used for a magnet pick up style timing probe. If you had an old snap-on counsler II they use to have the probe adapter. But who has one of those old dinosaurs.Oh wait I do haha
South Main Auto Repair LLC Hahaha It’s weird seeing your comment on here from 4 years ago ........ look at you now You two guys are the shizzz Scanner Danner, Eric O = GOAT !!
I am a retired auto mechanic from long ago. It’s nice to see a real video from a real mechanic. I just replaced (sucked in) throttle body gasket and cleaned all the crap out of the inside of the throttlebody that fixed my problem. Oh I changed o2 when I did the starter. Thanks!
Paul, Great vid. I've seen you lay in that same parking lot time after time. I have a dirt drive way in front of my garage so I feel for ya! Little tip if you ever see a old weight lifting bench on the side of the road, grab it. The cushions on them are great for laying on the ground and are very portable because of there compact size. Perfect for Pete's parking lot and will make a perfect addition to your mobile tool chest!
The best padding for under car work that I have found is a piece of thick carpet. You can get these at any carpet store, in almost any size, for very little money. Just keep it rolled up and laying in the back of your truck. It insulates from the ground well, even on snow. Just get a THICK one. Also, for a "headrest", the boat seat cushions that are about 15 inches square work well. They are about 3 inches thick, and have flexible "throw handles" on two sides. Cost is about 15 dollars at any outdoors store. Also, one of the blue utility tarps available at any tool shop or outdoors store can be very useful for keeping the carpet dry. Working underneath a car in cold weather is tough enough, but if you can find ways to stay very dry and not have to feel all the rocks and ice on the ground makes a big difference. And Paul, you might try wearing a cap (you know, a winter cap, not a baseball cap)! Hang in there.....
1988 ford f150 here! Just wanted to say without this video I'd be bigtime screwed. Was able to chase down and rule out many factors in my truck. You sir are awesome and very knowledgeable . Ty ty ty
I know this is one of your older videos man. But wanted to say that once again, you are teaching me a lot about a vehicle i buy to fix up. I know almost nothing about fords and currently have it tore apart. Removing smog and egr systems, new gaskets etc etc. Thanks a ton.
I find it amazing the different things that can cause performance issues like this. I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey that was giving all kinds of codes from O2 to rich on bank 1 to lean on bank 1 to Evap system . . . . . Long story short, the little rubber grommet on top of the fuel pump (inside the sending unit assembly) had cracked and was flaking off. After a ridiculously long search, I was finally able to obtain one and replaced the broken one. Now, the thing runs almost like new. Before that, it would run great with a full tank of gas, but once it dropped below 1/2 tank, it would hesitate and balk, sometimes nearly die out completely!
When I was in auto school they taught me how to time those, now that makes me feel old, hopefully though this will give the younger techs and diys and idea on what we were working on back then. Also made me think about when I fixed up a 89 crown vic for my brother that had a egr pos code. It was a bad pos sensor, and it made me go through the same process on my old snap on brick,lol. Nice job Paul.
I actually wish I was able to go to the states and be taught by you. If you ever come to Ireland, please let us know on your website. I want to shake your hand and thank you for all the things I have learned from you.
I just got an 88 F150 with the 6 cyl that is exhibiting the same faults as this truck... stumbles at part throttle with the EGR hooked up, unplug EGR and it runs great. The valve itself moves fine, vacuum control is fine, and the position sensor measures OK. I hadn't thought to check the O2 sensor - now I know where to look next!
This is why I want to buy a classic old pre any computer, sensor, relay, emissions truck. And when I open the hood I want to see a battery, a fuel line that runs to a carburetor, a coil, a distributor cap, 6 or 8 wires from said cap to 6 or 8 spark plugs and that is about it. You are great at what you do Dan! But I do not want to be dependent on all the test equipment and scanners that you have. Nor could I ever justify buying them. I also hate paying someone else to fix stuff I own. I just can't bring myself to do it. Like I said you are great at what you do and people need your skills. You are a dying breed. Most places just throw parts at it until it is fixed. Trouble shooting I think is a lost art. And someone that can do it are the best mechanics. Former US Army CH-47 mechanic.
@@dcummings7253 just remember me when the silver bullet channels aren't cutting it for you on a difficult one okay? I'll teach you to fish, not just hand you one :-)
@@ScannerDanner Not sure I understand you. I really don't watch car channels. I'm just old fashion.. My dream truck is a old M37 or dodge power wagon. With the flat head 6. And drive it as a truck not a show piece. Don't get me wrong you are great at what you do and I thank you. You helped me get my 1987 F-150 running again. Honestly you are the only real guy that I have found that is a normal person. Not someone with a huge shop and a bunch of shit that no common man would ever own. Keep Doin What Your Doin ! PS You already did teach me to fish with the 87. Thanks again!
Wishing I had found Scanner Danner a long time before now. Watching only my second video of yours here and now, I'm wondering if this Ford truck could have a capacitor in the ECM ECU, etc etc what ever it seems folks want to call the little mystery boxes . I doubt a feller would qualify for a response to a now 9 year old video, but I'm so impressed with your knowledge of auto electrical that I'd be very grateful for your thoughts on my 1996 7.5 F250 gas lover that hasn't ran since hitting a pothole in the road now nearing 2 months ago . The hole in the road has caused my under hood position #9 30 amp maxi fuse to blow as fast as I can put them in and turn the key (3 so far) . If I hook my scanner (s) to the truck, they can't even find what's needed to pull codes to get an idea . I find a world of information about the Super Duty version of the same trucks but little to no information about the gas guzzling model that I enjoy driving (when it's running) I have never been much for electrical trouble shooting and now at the age of 60 and disabled I would like to learn . Problem is, is that I'm totally illiterate to electrical. Do you offer any training offered for Dummies ? I have 11 of the 9th gen Fords that all need something about them repaired or replaced . The most interesting thing I have learned is a little about the capacitors getting aged, leaking and causing a variety of quirky problems. I sure would like to hear back from you if you haven't retired from RUclips!!!!
Do you have a good wiring diagram? You need to find out what all is on that 30a maxi fuse as a starting point. Yes, I have heard of capacitors leaking on these early Ford computers but only recently and I doubt that is your issue with that fuse blowing as the ECM isn't generally powered directly from a maxi fuse. Here is a link for the DIY version of the same service info I use. (Same diagrams) eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1= I can definitely help you level up with electrical and electronics troubleshooting. Glad you found me!
Fuse 9 [30a] does power the PCM BUT it also powers the power relay and literally everything on that power relay circuit is suspect. You need to do a good visual inspection of all the wiring for the following components. 1. Evap purge solenoid 2. Injectors 3. EGR vacuum solenoid 4. Idle air control valve 5. Secondary air injection diverted solenoid and bypass solenoids 6. Transmission shift solenoids 7. MAF sensor 8. All 3 oxygen sensors 9. Of course the PCM too When you have a direct short like you do. Unless you have a short circuit tester, the first thing I do is to ID everything on that circuit (which I just did for you) and then focus on areas of heat and vibration. Contact points of the harnesses. I would start with a really good visual of those oxygen sensors and make sure the wiring isn't laying on the exhaust.
Hi Paul, I found your channel a few month ago and watched your all videos but still watching your both channels every day. I learned a lot from you. Thank you very much
that was great.watching you change direction and going beyond the egr valve and testing the o2 sensor with the test light was really fun.thanks for the after shot on the o2 sensor because little things like that make your videos better than others.people say old school cars are easier to work on but data from computers really helps for direction.that was great troubleshooting.
I would have diagnosed a faulty stinky tree hanging on the coat rack inside the cab. lol Great job getting the antique to run well. Paul your videos rock!
As always thanks for all you do! Reminds me of a problem child we had that I posted on iATN in 2013. Same type of scenario and outcome sort of... 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4.0L Hesitation, Surge, Cuts out, Stall, Misfire, Intermittent Sensed The scanners reported a weird #4 misfiring --- so we went down that rabbit hole big time - shame on us. Probably we were psychologically motivated to pursue that angle because we we scared the rebuilt engine that we at the time we recently installed was awry and that would be blood on our heads. Here is bottom line summary as I closed it in iATN "Well here we hope is end of story. After persistence on part of tech collecting scan data it was apparent that on occasion O2 sensor output was weird. We electrically tested circuit and settled on the sensor itself. New OEM sensor installed (consulted with dealer master tech first) and vehicle running perfectly. Now O2 output not just fuzzy perfect but always spot on perfect. Finding this eluded us because O2 output seemed OK enough (and was 90% of time) - but that "hidden" 10% was kicking our tails. Also sometimes it pays to just ignore a mystery and go for the obvious. We believed the tombstone miscount graph (still there! consistently! still mystery to all including dealer master tech consultant) was clue to problem. When the common O2 sensor drop out seems to have been the cause of driveability problem. "
Been a Mechanic for 30 years. I always Cut my hood Strings. Got mine grabbed 29 years ago.lol Love Cardboard used it for years. In Cold Wisconsin, It works great in the winters.
Excellent, I'm still back tracking, I had these symptoms initially, changed the O2 and still had same symptoms, so I changed the a bad hose on the fuel pump but in addition my truck stops running intermittently, no check engine light on key position, no start, crank. 00Mazda B2500SE 2.5L I have no diagnostic tools except a volt meter & test light. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience.
find out what you are missing when it doesn't start. these videos may help ruclips.net/video/S0Fs2i-XBKI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/SUxagOAVS5M/видео.html
With the car key in On Position found the Relay that Controlled the Check Engine Light and Changed that Relay (Auxilary Power PCM?). Now my truck starts Dan. Approximately what is the most I should I pay to get a Full Diagnostic Scan at the Dealer where I originally bought the truck? Don't have any codes and have to put the truck back together before I can road tested it. But I did leave the engine running for over an hour and it didn't die.
i have this exact same timing light and its gotta be over 15 years old now still works like a charm, also remember the fan blades are invisible when spinning watch your finger tips it doesn't feel good usually wont cut ya
Hey Scanner Danner, I really really appreciate you going through all you did to fix this one. It was a lot of vital points in this video that i'm pretty sure can help me figure out my little issue i'm having with my 2004 Ford F-150. My 2004 F-150 starts up strong and idle's good and smooth, but as it starts getting warmer, it starts to having a vibration, not like a ignition misfire, but like it's getting too much fuel because it burns gas faster than usual, and when i stick my finger in the tail pipe i get this black stuff on it like a rich carburator. Your stuck 02 sensor/bad 02 sensor fix that made that truck run smooth without the mis, just might be the same issue i'm having with my idle. I know it's a lot of variables that can cause a ruff idle but from this video i'm gonna check my 02 sensor's. Nice video👍 Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner Hey Danner, My STFT, (bk 1) is -1.6 to 0.8% STFT (bk 2) is around the same as 1 LTFT (bk 1) is 12.5% and getting higher as it warms up. LTFT (bk 2) is 7.8% maybe you can just about tell what would you check. Thank You! Scanner Danner🤛
Hey Danner, Now that my f-150 is warmed up, the LTFT (bk 1) is 10.2% and holding steady. My LTFT (bk 2) went from 7.8% and is now 9.4% at 180° Thanks for your opinion Danner👍
Good tip on "cause or effect", it's tricky to distinguish between the two sometimes. EECIV is one of my least favorite systems to diagnose. On the previous video, I would suspect a bad splice, but with no good info on older systems it can be tough. Good fixes!
Sorry for not putting my comments togather. I didn't want to watch this video because I don't touch anything older than 96 but i'm glad i did. I didn't know Ford was using that egr solenoid back then. You look like u was enjoying driving a stick.
Hi Paul one of the things I have done is take out number 1 spark plug and put a probe down there and turn the engine by hand for top dead centre, then maybe back I little to ifnd the timing marks, fool proof way if your on the right cylinder, am I right in saying with zero volts at the oxygen sensor it will run rich, I had one once with a broken wire and it ran really rich...anyway good informative video thanks Fred uk
Fuel tank selector valve has a filter in bottom of many.Few are aware of this. I just changed one 30 years never done. There is an Arcing spark wire 30:05 I can see/ hear it next to tps for misfire. Will test O2 next. Good job Thanks
thank thank you for all the testing because this just found out the problem why my truck has been acting like it has for the last 7 months it has been acting the same way hesitant surging low power I've changed so many parts and still had the same result
What I have found helpful when I use to work on the older engines a lot Is to take a wire brush or a piece of crocus cloth and hold it against the harmonic balancer underneath the vehicle while the engine is running. It works really well when trying to find the timing marks on a balancer especially when your degrees are on the balancer instead of the timing tab.
I was just going over some of your past videos as I am getting ready for the ASE L1 exam, and after watching this video I have to say that maybe some Manual Transmission Driving Lessons are in favor for you sir. haha. Hope you get a good laugh as I did. Great video.
Man I'd love to go on some diags with you sometime been working on cars for 5yrs in the field. Mobile repair is the best to learn on live problems with no codes. I have the u scope and a 2 channel. I appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos. I met Eric at SEMA. It's easy for people to talk trash online. I'd like to see you speak at SEMA. Or come out to my shop when I build one. I have cardboard.
I've used a welders wire brush to clean the rust and crap off of the harmonic balancer while he engine was running. Makes it look like new, and you can see every timing mark that's on the balancer. A lot easier than guessing.
i have a fleet of these trucks and at 3:56 i have seen that mark before it is for a factory scope timing, there is a tube that is bolted to the timing cover that a scope probe inserts into for timing...
Great throwback video. Got worried there in the middle of the video that the exhaust leak you mentioned early on was causing a faulty O2 reading. Nice diagnosis.
Hey Paul long time no comment…. Love coming back to watch your older videos, especially if they are about the old fords pre OBD …. I’ve got a super rich running engine I’m dealing with on my 86 e-150 302 going to check the MAP sensor and scan for codes tomorrow! This motherloving truck keeps biting me 🥶 It’s a habitual line stepper 😅
Awesome video. I have a '91 Mustang GT and have the same diagnostic capabilities as this truck. I like that you think out load. It helps me learn from your experience. I know you've done it before and have stated it won't cause any issues, but I'm still in awe that you applied 12v to the O2 sensor input circuit. To be honest, that is my biggest fear in circuit validation, applying either too much current or too much voltage to a circuit. I know that you have gone over this so many times. I guess I just need to believe. And thanks for always going the extra mile; you know by showing the new O2 sensor output.
I think it is a healthy fear and I cannot make you feel any better about it other than what I've shown in the past. Did you see my other video where I attempted to measure the current flow from this test?
ScannerDanner Premium I have. It was very easy video to understand and follow. Because of this video, I have also measured all my test lights and have marked them with their amperage ratings. Yup, all. I have a whole bunch of test lights since I couldn't find one at 200-300ma. I have both computer safe and normal test lights. LOL But like from what I have seen from you, I have yet to use a computer safe one. I see what you are saying in that you used a test light when bringing the O2 circuit high so amperage would be limited to 200ma to 500ma. But, voltage was much higher than the AtoD convertor usually gets; I'm under the impression this circuit usually handles no more than 1.5v. But, in your test, you applied a full 12v. Like you said, they design the circuit to handle the heater circuit shorting to the signal circuit. I totally understand how and why you did what you did in this video. But, I'm curious how you would handle a similar issue with an A/F sensor, instead of an O2 sensor. From your videos and videos that you recommended, you would rely on scanner PIDs, but just for fun, let's assume you cannot access scanner PIDs. In other words, ScannerDanner would just be Danner. LOL Again, thank you for your replies and all the knowledge and experience you share with such enthusiasm. It is your passion and desire to do the job right that makes me, and probably everyone else, watch all your videos over and over.
I remember in one of your training videos on PCM voltage sensing, you clearly state that a voltage sensing circuit of the PCM does not induce current. So, the numerous videos you have provided have clearly demonstrated this fact. This circuit is just sensing voltage potential difference. You have shown me beyond a doubt that sending 12v to an O2 voltage sensing circuit will not induce current flow, and that the PCM A2D will just take anything >1v as 1v, which makes sense. Thank you; thank you.
Hello. there, I need help with my 2006 Ford F150 5.4L. I bought this pickup not working thinking it would be an easy fix. Towed it home. no start no crank no communications codes, and I did not hear the gas pump, so I replaced that gas pump driver module above the spare tire. and still did not hear anything, So I replaced the powertrain control module, now when I turn on the key, I hear something like the gas pump, but still no crank, I found the little wire that goes to the started and kind of hot wired it, and it is starting nice that way, so it is not the starter, but now when I turn the key the anti theft light keeps blinking. And now when I plugin the code reader it says ALL STORED IN VEHICLE'S COMPUTER. What would you do next? I also have replaced all the relays in the fuse box. And I will not hold it against you if what ever you say I should do next, if it should not work. I 'm really open to any ideas. Or what would you do next? Please help me, I can not afford to have to tow it to the Ford dealer. anything will help, I know you are smart, thank you. Thank you for doing all the great videos, you are saving poor people a lot of money, big dealers have already a lot of money. Thank you from Calgary AB
I think this is one of the better in the field video's you have ever done. You didn't seem as stressed as I have seen you before. I have worked on many trucks like that and I was screaming for you to check the O2 sensor. LoL. I don't think you heard me though. They only try to correct for so long before they go into open loop. I have also seen EVR solenoids stuck open allowing uncontrolled vacuum to the EGR. I'm kinda glad they don't build them like that anymore but at the same time I miss the simplicity.
Great video! You posted this video at the start of 2015 and say then that there aren't many such vehicles on the road anymore, and also that you can't easily access diagnostic information. The former's true, but the latter not so much. I have a breakout box (BOB) that I use with my 1988 Bronco II (220,000 miles and I'm the original owner) that has always run like a champ, up until last week. It started dying at idle or slow speeds. The engine abruptly cuts out, but will start back up again without any issue. I've had it idling for an hour in my garage without any stalling. Then I took it out for a run to the grocery store and back without any problem, left it idling in the garage and it died within 5 minutes of returning home. There's no stumble, it just cuts out dead. Scoping voltage at all the sensors through the BOB, as well as the secondary ignition from the coil, doesn't show anything wrong and there are no codes. Well, dang! I think it must be temperature-related and needs to reach a certain temperature before it starts acting up but so far it's really impossible (for me) to pinpoint what the problem is. It's certainly not the oxygen sensor, which is cycling perfectly. Thanks for all the videos.
@@DFWAuto_Hack The problem with my B2 ended up being the distributor Hall effect (crank) sensor (per Scanner Danner). 1988 (and 1989) have OBDI ports but they're pretty useless in comparison with OBDII. The breakout box allows easy access to the computer's inputs and outputs, but you need a voltmeter (and preferably an oscilloscope) to see what's going on. Fortunately, they're a lot simpler than OBDII vehicles so they're really not that difficult to diagnose.
@@OvertheHills i have a voltmeter nd can use it. I have an oscilloscope but cannot use it lol Mine shakes and stalls at first. If I give it light gas pedal to keep it running, it gets warm nd is good for the whole day. Makes me think about old motorcycles with choke system lol Transmission wise, it slips from 3rd-4th gear when in D mode; i must switch the gear lever to the mode located at the bottom to keep the power going
@@DFWAuto_Hack An oscilloscope is just a fancy voltmeter that creates a graph of voltage against time. That could be a bad temperature sensor. I'd check the resistance across its terminals to see whether it's within spec. I don't know about the F150 but the OBDI port on my B2 is in the engine compartment on the right side fender near the firewall. Lucky for me I have a manual transmission. Good luck!
Hey Paul, great video. I got an 86 GT 5.0, I got the idle running perfectly. Locked on at approximately 650-675 RPM. However, once in while idling engine warmed up and in close loop, the engine will drop in RPM about 50 RPM and back to normal in a hunting fashion. While its hunting the Vacuum gauge also drops from a steady 18 inches of mercury to about 14 or 15 inches of mercury. At the same time this is happening, I'm monitoring the ECT, IAT, MAP, EGR, PIP/SPT, TPS,IAC (sawtooth waveform) and all parameters were within specs. Finally I performed a amperage check on the IAC while the RPM hunting was occurring, I noticed an increase in the amount of IAC current draw during this RPM hunting. I'm thinking the IAC step motor may be acting up, since normal position of the IAC is closed via spring and maybe the IAC is struggling to keep itself open do to age,etc. The IAC plunger is spotless I cleaned it and the throttle body plate as well is spotless. My next step is too replace the IAC valve, it's the original I'm the original owner but I have always kept it spotless. This Mustang does mods I performed but always ran AWESOME after mods until this recent Idling issue, what do you think about me replacing the IAC, keep up the great work. Oh forgot to state the fuel is rock steady 39 psi and under acceleration increases to 42-43, with no problem. Thanks Paul
Great video. Rode with you all the way thru. Who cares about the seat belt. With trying to figure out what was going on, I'd too would have forgotten to buckle up. Good troubleshooting. Thumbs up!
Didn't watch the entire video to see if you mentioned this, but the truck had an ignition misfire. At 30:03, just to the left of the TPS, behind the air intake clamp under the throttle body, you can see spark jumping like crazy.
+ScannerDanner I'll be darn. I took a second look after I read your reply and it is evident the plug wire isn't the culprit. I guess looks can be deceiving in a video. I wasn't hating by any means. My apologies if it came across that way. I certainly respect your diagnostic abilities. It's good to see there are techs that use an oscilloscope and know how to interpret live data instead of pulling a trouble code and replacing a part. I see that so often in this field, and I'm sure you do too. I had excellent automotive instructors that taught me how to properly approach diagnostic and repair situations, and it's evident your students are as fortunate as I was.
Paul I have a 95 300 with a stick same exact symptom. The only way I was able to stop it was to insert a straw from a spray can to delay the vacuum and that fixed the problem. ford's fix for this was a one way valve with a delay to solve the problem. I cleaned the egr circuit changed the egr solenoid with no difference. but the restriction in the vacuum line eliminated it. I also replaced the 02 sensor. made no difference. hope this helps.
I was thinking verifying base timing too. It was tricky to get the distributor gear and the oil pump key lined up when i put mine back in so i got it as close as i could then adjusted the base timing after i started the engine.
That was great I did the same truck a few weeks ago and my verus was doing the same thing going back and fourth not sure why. Thats a great tip on testing O2 wiring
Might want to consider a head mounted Go-pro camera? Ive had an O2 sensor repeatedly shut down the truck once its warmed up. No check engine light. Took awhile to figure it out.
Great video.as usual.93 ranger 2.3 new o2 same problem...6 months trouble.plus hidden whistle...checked manafold .flooded with oil..my bad ...old truck .Bad pvc. To much vac on crank case....sucking oil....new pcv truck runs great .(no check light) they say high tech helps..makes me turn gray......lol
You can join me online on my premium channel if your interested. It's free for 14 days, check it out, you will not be disappointed. Just click on this name.
i have the same truck at home except it has a v8 instead. i have learned a lot of patience with this truck. the throttle body was plugged solid and all the bolts on the engine were just finger-tight. that would explain the 3000 rpm right out of the gate, blown head gaskets and burned valves. i almost got i fixed now. but it is winter and 40 miles away outside.
I like your testing skills now I have a problem I would want you to suggest something my ford escort will not run smoothly on regular gas only super will make it sound alright.What could be the problem?
I have a 95 F150 4.9 with 4R70W automatic. I've been chasing a bad surge for a few months, it violently "break dances" at highway speeds. I've done all the usual tune-up stuff, including vacuum lines. Truck now has 190k. Checked and blocked off EGR valve and even did a "poor man's" cylinder leakage test (shooting compressed air into spark plug holes with radiator cap off) - I'm to the point where I either got a bad new part out of the box, or I have a wiring problem.
I had a wierd issue like that with mine , though it’s a 5spd manual - I kinda took a guess at the wierd box shaped thing on the firewall with a vacuum tube to it called the map sensor, that was it I got lucky it ran like a champ
Hi Paul I am building a off road Toyota T100 Pickup for off road racing it has no cat or muffler its strictly off road... what tuneup or adjustments do I need to do to make it run efficent.. ect: fual mixture- timing- or anything else you know about. Thank you Paul your the BEST !!
I got a 89 Ford F250 460, I plugged off the EGR and just completely removed it and plugged the manifold and took off all the vacuum to the egr assembly. Would that be alright to do or do you recommend leaving it on there?
Nice Video Mr. Danner. When you leaned over to adjust distributor I said to myself "watch them string's buddy". Good tip! Paul Please put your scan tool on the seat and NOT the steering wheel. I'm sure all of us don't want to see you get hurt from possible SRS deployment and most importantly Your Kids need there Daddy:) -I'm not sure if the vehicle is equipped with air bag but a good practice would be to never put it there. Look forward to your next video and Paul thanks for doing what you do.
Apreciate all u do...for real=).. think the hardest thing to do was getting underneath the truck when its cold and wet...thanx for all ur hard work.....
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](/img/tr.png)
I prefer these types of videos. It's the real deal, no pre-arrangements just, "This sucker doesn't work right and I've got to figure out how to fix it." That's real life. Good stuff.
Right right right I am a lifer
Yes, you learn more this way and makes the video more fun to watch.
Kelvin Randolph hashtag
I am an old mechanic from waaaay back and really envy your patience and tenacity. Not changing parts before knowing for sure what is the CAUSE. You are a fine example for your peers and those who in the future. Much ablige:):):):).
Thanks brother!
I get bitched at, at the shop sometimes for doing the "check every possibility" methodology you teach due to time, however, when no one else can figure it after throwing parts at it, it becomes my head ache and i get it every time. So thanks for what you do i have learned alot. Thinking outside the box, and approaching things from a different angle. Also, i am a devout "sccpe guy", i diagnose plugged cats with an in cylinder transducer doing running compression tests, home built transducer set up with tons of home made attachments. 15 years in the shop, and your vids inspired me to "up my game" by learning the scope about 3 or 4 years ago. Now its the first tool i grab for diagnostics, if i can figure out a way to do it.
Rod X 1!!
I've had cars that don't start and all it was is a loose fuse,or wire disconnected
@@ScannerDanner hey man I have a serious question if you can help me with 91 F-150 5.0 manual 2wd randomly between weeks months to years I don't know randomly the truck will fail the ECM brought burn it up destroy burn up ignition module on the side of the distributor burn it destroy or it will rarely get the coil do you have any suggestions to what I can start looking forward to try to fix this problem for good can you give me a general direction like look at the ignition module wires or the engine harness wire pin number maybe this could help ground on driver side under radiator I'm just saying anything this is my only vehicle man and it's going on two to three weeks being down and it is starting to really hurt my wallet and put me a very bad position so thanks for anyone anything plz
we need more people like you in the world!!!!!! wish you were my automotive teacher
He is an automotive instructor
I saw the correct mark on the crank pulley at 3:52 minutes from beginning of the recording, it was the collected dust and oil which mislead you. I do not blame you as it happened to me as well. You are doing great, well done. It is a pleasure to watch your videos. Thank you very much
Good eyes kid
In some ways older vehicles can be harder to diagnose than newer ones. As you said, it is a lost art. There's nothing quite like the feeling of getting a "vintage" vehicle back on its feet, when most of its brothers are long gone to the junkyard in the sky :)
All that said I Rather have an older vehicle You don't have to take half the vehicle apart to get What Your after And you don't have to buy ten thousand dollars scanner either
Paul - YOU are a SUPER TECHNICIAN AND INSTRUCTOR. I do know that you can properly diagnose and repair any vehicle . I am 100 % sure that you have forgot more technical info than I even know and one of your greatest traits is you are honest and able to admit if you have overlooked some needed test or possibly missed something. That being said , there is NO DOUBT , you WILL ALWAYS find the problem. MANY , MANY THANKS for ALL the LIVE troubleshooting video's you post. 😊😊👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️🧐
Thank you so much my friend
You are a TRUE Tech. There are so many parts changers who think they know what they are doing. But don't know if their butt is bored or punched. Thank You!!
Kenneth Shilts thanks Kenneth!
I like the way you explain your attitude toward customer expectation vs reality and charging out for your time, especially with vehicles that have multiple issues.
I also like the way you emphasise road tests before and after repair, it can be difficult, especially when pressured for time.
Really enjoying your videos on this and your premium channel, time and money well invested IMO.
Keep up the good work Paul, you are an inspiration to your viewers.
Doc...
I just can't believe how good and honest you are. Don't ever change. Good people will see it even when u think no one is looking.
God bless you my friend for those encouraging words. I truly appreciate it.
Great video! We all appreciate all the sacrifices you make to bring us such great video content. I really like the "field" videos the most. I've been mechanic 13 years and learn a lot from you and your brother
Mr. Danner, you are an amazing auto technician. Sure wish I had you for a teacher in trade school. Thanks for all the great vids.
Actually we could get data from the sensors,but not from the self test connector. The EEIV monitor hooked directly into the 60 pin ecm. It is like a break out box with a LED display. So it was live unprocessed data with a knob that rotated to view different sensors. Great video Paul, it brought back a lot of memories!
New owner of 1990 f150 with pretty much all the same issues thanks for the real world diagnosis!
How does it feel to be Scanner Danner? Click here → 51:44 to find out!
+briansmobile1 Kinda bad A right?
+briansmobile1 thanks Brian for the plug!
It feels RRRRRRRReally Good. LMAO
lol, I think I missed this last time. super funny, thanks again brother
Any time you see a deep notch in a crank pulley that is used for a magnet pick up style timing probe. If you had an old snap-on counsler II they use to have the probe adapter. But who has one of those old dinosaurs.Oh wait I do haha
South Main Auto Repair LLC
Hahaha It’s weird seeing your comment on here from 4 years ago ........ look at you now
You two guys are the shizzz
Scanner Danner, Eric O = GOAT !!
@@ryanhell6028 ibis BBC h
I am a retired auto mechanic from long ago. It’s nice to see a real video from a real mechanic. I just replaced (sucked in) throttle body gasket and cleaned all the crap out of the inside of the throttlebody that fixed my problem. Oh I changed o2 when I did the starter. Thanks!
thumbs up for crawling back under for the 02 reading :)
Paul, Great vid. I've seen you lay in that same parking lot time after time. I have a dirt drive way in front of my garage so I feel for ya! Little tip if you ever see a old weight lifting bench on the side of the road, grab it. The cushions on them are great for laying on the ground and are very portable because of there compact size. Perfect for Pete's parking lot and will make a perfect addition to your mobile tool chest!
The best padding for under car work that I have found is a piece of thick carpet. You can get these at any carpet store, in almost any size, for very little money. Just keep it rolled up and laying in the back of your truck. It insulates from the ground well, even on snow. Just get a THICK one.
Also, for a "headrest", the boat seat cushions that are about 15 inches square work well. They are about 3 inches thick, and have flexible "throw handles" on two sides. Cost is about 15 dollars at any outdoors store.
Also, one of the blue utility tarps available at any tool shop or outdoors store can be very useful for keeping the carpet dry.
Working underneath a car in cold weather is tough enough, but if you can find ways to stay very dry and not have to feel all the rocks and ice on the ground makes a big difference. And Paul, you might try wearing a cap (you know, a winter cap, not a baseball cap)!
Hang in there.....
1988 ford f150 here! Just wanted to say without this video I'd be bigtime screwed. Was able to chase down and rule out many factors in my truck. You sir are awesome and very knowledgeable . Ty ty ty
Awesome
Paul,you're the real deal,genuine,nothing fake in your videos. Love that!
I know this is one of your older videos man. But wanted to say that once again, you are teaching me a lot about a vehicle i buy to fix up. I know almost nothing about fords and currently have it tore apart. Removing smog and egr systems, new gaskets etc etc. Thanks a ton.
I have a bunch of EECIV videos for you! Glad you found me. I can help too
I find it amazing the different things that can cause performance issues like this. I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey that was giving all kinds of codes from O2 to rich on bank 1 to lean on bank 1 to Evap system . . . . . Long story short, the little rubber grommet on top of the fuel pump (inside the sending unit assembly) had cracked and was flaking off. After a ridiculously long search, I was finally able to obtain one and replaced the broken one. Now, the thing runs almost like new. Before that, it would run great with a full tank of gas, but once it dropped below 1/2 tank, it would hesitate and balk, sometimes nearly die out completely!
When I was in auto school they taught me how to time those, now that makes me feel old, hopefully though this will give the younger techs and diys and idea on what we were working on back then. Also made me think about when I fixed up a 89 crown vic for my brother that had a egr pos code. It was a bad pos sensor, and it made me go through the same process on my old snap on brick,lol. Nice job Paul.
Thank you for filming all of this. Folks don’t get the conserntraion it takes to repair older cars and trucks.
I learned a lot from this, I especially like how you verified o2 circuit integrity. Great work, Thanks Paul.
I actually wish I was able to go to the states and be taught by you. If you ever come to Ireland, please let us know on your website. I want to shake your hand and thank you for all the things I have learned from you.
Thanks so much!
I just got an 88 F150 with the 6 cyl that is exhibiting the same faults as this truck... stumbles at part throttle with the EGR hooked up, unplug EGR and it runs great. The valve itself moves fine, vacuum control is fine, and the position sensor measures OK. I hadn't thought to check the O2 sensor - now I know where to look next!
This is why I want to buy a classic old pre any computer, sensor, relay, emissions truck. And when I open the hood I want to see a battery, a fuel line that runs to a carburetor, a coil, a distributor cap, 6 or 8 wires from said cap to 6 or 8 spark plugs and that is about it. You are great at what you do Dan! But I do not want to be dependent on all the test equipment and scanners that you have. Nor could I ever justify buying them. I also hate paying someone else to fix stuff I own. I just can't bring myself to do it. Like I said you are great at what you do and people need your skills. You are a dying breed. Most places just throw parts at it until it is fixed. Trouble shooting I think is a lost art. And someone that can do it are the best mechanics. Former US Army CH-47 mechanic.
you have to look past the fancy stuff and apply what is here to the equipment you have my friend.
thanks!
@@ScannerDanner Yes I understand that. I'm just looking for something with less of it.
@@dcummings7253 just remember me when the silver bullet channels aren't cutting it for you on a difficult one okay? I'll teach you to fish, not just hand you one :-)
@@ScannerDanner Not sure I understand you. I really don't watch car channels. I'm just old fashion.. My dream truck is a old M37 or dodge power wagon. With the flat head 6. And drive it as a truck not a show piece. Don't get me wrong you are great at what you do and I thank you. You helped me get my 1987 F-150 running again. Honestly you are the only real guy that I have found that is a normal person. Not someone with a huge shop and a bunch of shit that no common man would ever own. Keep Doin What Your Doin ! PS You already did teach me to fish with the 87. Thanks again!
how can anyone dislike any of your videos? they are all informative. Thanks again
because a lot of people just want solver bullet fixes, not long how-to videos
Wishing I had found Scanner Danner a long time before now. Watching only my second video of yours here and now, I'm wondering if this Ford truck could have a capacitor in the ECM ECU, etc etc what ever it seems folks want to call the little mystery boxes . I doubt a feller would qualify for a response to a now 9 year old video, but I'm so impressed with your knowledge of auto electrical that I'd be very grateful for your thoughts on my 1996 7.5 F250 gas lover that hasn't ran since hitting a pothole in the road now nearing 2 months ago . The hole in the road has caused my under hood position #9 30 amp maxi fuse to blow as fast as I can put them in and turn the key (3 so far) . If I hook my scanner (s) to the truck, they can't even find what's needed to pull codes to get an idea . I find a world of information about the Super Duty version of the same trucks but little to no information about the gas guzzling model that I enjoy driving (when it's running) I have never been much for electrical trouble shooting and now at the age of 60 and disabled I would like to learn . Problem is, is that I'm totally illiterate to electrical. Do you offer any training offered for Dummies ? I have 11 of the 9th gen Fords that all need something about them repaired or replaced . The most interesting thing I have learned is a little about the capacitors getting aged, leaking and causing a variety of quirky problems. I sure would like to hear back from you if you haven't retired from RUclips!!!!
Do you have a good wiring diagram? You need to find out what all is on that 30a maxi fuse as a starting point.
Yes, I have heard of capacitors leaking on these early Ford computers but only recently and I doubt that is your issue with that fuse blowing as the ECM isn't generally powered directly from a maxi fuse.
Here is a link for the DIY version of the same service info I use. (Same diagrams)
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
I can definitely help you level up with electrical and electronics troubleshooting. Glad you found me!
Fuse 9 [30a] does power the PCM BUT it also powers the power relay and literally everything on that power relay circuit is suspect.
You need to do a good visual inspection of all the wiring for the following components.
1. Evap purge solenoid
2. Injectors
3. EGR vacuum solenoid
4. Idle air control valve
5. Secondary air injection diverted solenoid and bypass solenoids
6. Transmission shift solenoids
7. MAF sensor
8. All 3 oxygen sensors
9. Of course the PCM too
When you have a direct short like you do. Unless you have a short circuit tester, the first thing I do is to ID everything on that circuit (which I just did for you) and then focus on areas of heat and vibration. Contact points of the harnesses.
I would start with a really good visual of those oxygen sensors and make sure the wiring isn't laying on the exhaust.
Hi Paul, I found your channel a few month ago and watched your all videos but still watching your both channels every day.
I learned a lot from you. Thank you very much
that was great.watching you change direction and going beyond the egr valve and testing the o2 sensor with the test light was really fun.thanks for the after shot on the o2 sensor because little things like that make your videos better than others.people say old school cars are easier to work on but data from computers really helps for direction.that was great troubleshooting.
Another great video. Thanks. Working on those old rigs sure make OBD2 a dream.
I would have diagnosed a faulty stinky tree hanging on the coat rack inside the cab. lol Great job getting the antique to run well. Paul your videos rock!
This was the best video ever made...Why? It shows you're human!
As always thanks for all you do!
Reminds me of a problem child we had that I posted on iATN in 2013. Same type of scenario and outcome sort of...
1999 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4.0L Hesitation, Surge, Cuts out, Stall, Misfire, Intermittent Sensed
The scanners reported a weird #4 misfiring --- so we went down that rabbit hole big time - shame on us. Probably we were psychologically motivated to pursue that angle because we we scared the rebuilt engine that we at the time we recently installed was awry and that would be blood on our heads.
Here is bottom line summary as I closed it in iATN "Well here we hope is end of story. After persistence on part of tech collecting scan data it was apparent that on occasion O2 sensor output was weird. We electrically tested circuit and settled on the sensor itself.
New OEM sensor installed (consulted with dealer master tech first) and vehicle running perfectly. Now O2 output not just fuzzy perfect but always spot on perfect.
Finding this eluded us because O2 output seemed OK enough (and was 90% of time) - but that "hidden" 10% was kicking our tails.
Also sometimes it pays to just ignore a mystery and go for the obvious. We believed the tombstone miscount graph (still there! consistently! still mystery to all including dealer master tech consultant) was clue to problem. When the common O2 sensor drop out seems to have been the cause of driveability problem. "
Been a Mechanic for 30 years. I always Cut my hood Strings. Got mine grabbed 29 years ago.lol Love Cardboard used it for years. In Cold Wisconsin, It works great in the winters.
Excellent, I'm still back tracking, I had these symptoms initially, changed the O2 and still had same symptoms, so I changed the a bad hose on the fuel pump but in addition my truck stops running intermittently, no check engine light on key position, no start, crank. 00Mazda B2500SE 2.5L I have no diagnostic tools except a volt meter & test light. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience.
find out what you are missing when it doesn't start. these videos may help
ruclips.net/video/S0Fs2i-XBKI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/SUxagOAVS5M/видео.html
With the car key in On Position found the Relay that Controlled the Check Engine Light and Changed that Relay (Auxilary Power PCM?). Now my truck starts Dan. Approximately what is the most I should I pay to get a Full Diagnostic Scan at the Dealer where I originally bought the truck? Don't have any codes and have to put the truck back together before I can road tested it. But I did leave the engine running for over an hour and it didn't die.
i have this exact same timing light and its gotta be over 15 years old now still works like a charm, also remember the fan blades are invisible when spinning watch your finger tips it doesn't feel good usually wont cut ya
Hey Scanner Danner, I really really appreciate you going through all you did to fix this one. It was a lot of vital points in this video that i'm pretty sure can help me figure out my little issue i'm having with my 2004 Ford F-150. My 2004 F-150 starts up strong and idle's good and smooth, but as it starts getting warmer, it starts to having a vibration, not like a ignition misfire, but like it's getting too much fuel because it burns gas faster than usual, and when i stick my finger in the tail pipe i get this black stuff on it like a rich carburator. Your stuck 02 sensor/bad 02 sensor fix that made that truck run smooth without the mis, just might be the same issue i'm having with my idle. I know it's a lot of variables that can cause a ruff idle but from this video i'm gonna check my 02 sensor's. Nice video👍 Thanks!
we need to know what your fuel trim numbers are showing during this condition
@@ScannerDanner Hey Danner, My STFT, (bk 1) is -1.6 to 0.8%
STFT (bk 2) is around the same as 1
LTFT (bk 1) is 12.5% and getting higher
as it warms up.
LTFT (bk 2) is 7.8%
maybe you can just about tell what would you check. Thank You! Scanner Danner🤛
Hey Danner, Now that my f-150 is warmed up, the LTFT (bk 1) is 10.2% and holding steady.
My LTFT (bk 2) went from 7.8% and is now 9.4% at 180° Thanks for your opinion Danner👍
It could be a misfire. Do you have access to a global scan tool where you can read mode 6 data? You can find Fords misfire counters there
Good tip on "cause or effect", it's tricky to distinguish between the two sometimes. EECIV is one of my least favorite systems to diagnose. On the previous video, I would suspect a bad splice, but with no good info on older systems it can be tough. Good fixes!
Sorry for not putting my comments togather.
I didn't want to watch this video because I don't touch anything older than 96 but i'm glad i did. I didn't know Ford was using that egr solenoid back then. You look like u was enjoying driving a stick.
Check out time 3:53 I seen the timing mark right at the beginning of the video. It's really hard to see because it's inboard toward the engine.
You are RIGHT... I missed it but saw your comment and went back and took a look. GOOD EYE!
Hi Paul one of the things I have done is take out number 1 spark plug and put a probe down there and turn the engine by hand for top dead centre, then maybe back I little to ifnd the timing marks, fool proof way if your on the right cylinder, am I right in saying with zero volts at the oxygen sensor it will run rich, I had one once with a broken wire and it ran really rich...anyway good informative video thanks Fred uk
In closed loop yes.
It’s nice to see someone that that really loves his job
Fuel tank selector valve has a filter in bottom of many.Few are aware of this. I just changed one 30 years never done. There is an Arcing spark wire 30:05 I can see/ hear it next to tps for misfire. Will test O2 next.
Good job Thanks
no there is not, that would be the purge solenoid you were hearing that was clicking on/off
Ur system approach is very good.one of the best techs in the business
thank thank you for all the testing because this just found out the problem why my truck has been acting like it has for the last 7 months it has been acting the same way hesitant surging low power I've changed so many parts and still had the same result
You sir are top of the line. A1 THANKS FOR THE FINIAL RESULTS ON THE O2
What I have found helpful when I use to work on the older engines a lot Is to take a wire brush or a piece of crocus cloth and hold it against the harmonic balancer underneath the vehicle while the engine is running. It works really well when trying to find the timing marks on a balancer especially when your degrees are on the balancer instead of the timing tab.
just be careful right? :-)
Safety first :-)
I was just going over some of your past videos as I am getting ready for the ASE L1 exam, and after watching this video I have to say that maybe some Manual Transmission Driving Lessons are in favor for you sir. haha. Hope you get a good laugh as I did. Great video.
You are a genius!! Learned so much from you!! And I'm currently in a BMW step class! So need all the knowledge I can get! Lol
You deserve your own shop,'well done!
That 300 inline 6 engine!!! Tough as nails i refuse to drive anything else. Best engine ford ever made
I had 1 and it was garbage.
I cant remember the last time I used a timing light, maybe 15 years ago?
thanks for taking the time to show a known good 02 sensor on a pre obd2 system.
Man I'd love to go on some diags with you sometime been working on cars for 5yrs in the field. Mobile repair is the best to learn on live problems with no codes. I have the u scope and a 2 channel. I appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos. I met Eric at SEMA. It's easy for people to talk trash online. I'd like to see you speak at SEMA. Or come out to my shop when I build one. I have cardboard.
I'm learning more from your cockup videos than I ever learned from anyone else's regular how-tos.
Probably because this is my style. lol
I've used a welders wire brush to clean the rust and crap off of the harmonic balancer while he engine was running. Makes it look like new, and you can see every timing mark that's on the balancer. A lot easier than guessing.
We also have luxury of the google tool in our pocket where we can quickly locate info like “ford 4.9 balancer marks”
i have a fleet of these trucks and at 3:56 i have seen that mark before it is for a factory scope timing, there is a tube that is bolted to the timing cover that a scope probe inserts into for timing...
timing light! That brings me back!!! Done one on a rebuild of a ford 302 two weeks ago..... 1973 Comet....
Great throwback video. Got worried there in the middle of the video that the exhaust leak you mentioned early on was causing a faulty O2 reading. Nice diagnosis.
Hey Paul long time no comment….
Love coming back to watch your older videos, especially if they are about the old fords pre OBD ….
I’ve got a super rich running engine I’m dealing with on my 86 e-150 302 going to check the MAP sensor and scan for codes tomorrow!
This motherloving truck keeps biting me 🥶
It’s a habitual line stepper 😅
Awesome video. I have a '91 Mustang GT and have the same diagnostic capabilities as this truck.
I like that you think out load. It helps me learn from your experience.
I know you've done it before and have stated it won't cause any issues, but I'm still in awe that you applied 12v to the O2 sensor input circuit.
To be honest, that is my biggest fear in circuit validation, applying either too much current or too much voltage to a circuit. I know that you have gone over this so many times. I guess I just need to believe.
And thanks for always going the extra mile; you know by showing the new O2 sensor output.
I think it is a healthy fear and I cannot make you feel any better about it other than what I've shown in the past. Did you see my other video where I attempted to measure the current flow from this test?
ScannerDanner Premium I have. It was very easy video to understand and follow. Because of this video, I have also measured all my test lights and have marked them with their amperage ratings. Yup, all. I have a whole bunch of test lights since I couldn't find one at 200-300ma. I have both computer safe and normal test lights. LOL But like from what I have seen from you, I have yet to use a computer safe one.
I see what you are saying in that you used a test light when bringing the O2 circuit high so amperage would be limited to 200ma to 500ma. But, voltage was much higher than the AtoD convertor usually gets; I'm under the impression this circuit usually handles no more than 1.5v. But, in your test, you applied a full 12v. Like you said, they design the circuit to handle the heater circuit shorting to the signal circuit.
I totally understand how and why you did what you did in this video. But, I'm curious how you would handle a similar issue with an A/F sensor, instead of an O2 sensor. From your videos and videos that you recommended, you would rely on scanner PIDs, but just for fun, let's assume you cannot access scanner PIDs. In other words, ScannerDanner would just be Danner. LOL
Again, thank you for your replies and all the knowledge and experience you share with such enthusiasm. It is your passion and desire to do the job right that makes me, and probably everyone else, watch all your videos over and over.
Watch this video starting at 23:43
Help if I posted the link :)
m.ruclips.net/video/PYFQ3Y4eFWY/видео.html
I remember in one of your training videos on PCM voltage sensing, you clearly state that a voltage sensing circuit of the PCM does not induce current. So, the numerous videos you have provided have clearly demonstrated this fact. This circuit is just sensing voltage potential difference.
You have shown me beyond a doubt that sending 12v to an O2 voltage sensing circuit will not induce current flow, and that the PCM A2D will just take anything >1v as 1v, which makes sense.
Thank you; thank you.
What was the point of revving the motor with the spout jumper disconnected?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us again Zen Master !
Just curios should you do a visual for a vacuum before doing the timing
Hello. there, I need help with my 2006 Ford F150 5.4L. I bought this
pickup not working thinking it would be an easy fix. Towed it home. no
start no crank no communications codes, and I did not hear the gas pump,
so I replaced that gas pump driver module above the spare tire. and
still did not hear anything, So I replaced the powertrain control
module, now when I turn on the key, I hear something like the gas pump,
but still no crank, I found the little wire that goes to the started and
kind of hot wired it, and it is starting nice that way, so it is not
the starter, but now when I turn the key the anti theft light keeps
blinking. And now when I plugin the code reader it says ALL STORED IN
VEHICLE'S COMPUTER. What would you do next? I also have replaced all the
relays in the fuse box. And I will not hold it against you if what
ever you say I should do next, if it should not work. I 'm really open
to any ideas. Or what would you do next? Please help me, I can not
afford to have to tow it to the Ford dealer. anything will help, I know
you are smart, thank you. Thank you for doing all the great videos,
you are saving poor people a lot of money, big dealers have already a
lot of money. Thank you from Calgary AB
Boss If this car looks all right now, can there be any obstacles in the way of exhaust gas? What to see?
I have a 1990 , 4.9L. is not running but steering pump , took over my fixings at the moment. 75 years old here.
Larry. South Florida
I should have worded that different if you have vacuum leak are you able to get a good set on your timing
I think this is one of the better in the field video's you have ever done. You didn't seem as stressed as I have seen you before. I have worked on many trucks like that and I was screaming for you to check the O2 sensor. LoL. I don't think you heard me though. They only try to correct for so long before they go into open loop. I have also seen EVR solenoids stuck open allowing uncontrolled vacuum to the EGR.
I'm kinda glad they don't build them like that anymore but at the same time I miss the simplicity.
Great video! You posted this video at the start of 2015 and say then that there aren't many such vehicles on the road anymore, and also that you can't easily access diagnostic information. The former's true, but the latter not so much. I have a breakout box (BOB) that I use with my 1988 Bronco II (220,000 miles and I'm the original owner) that has always run like a champ, up until last week. It started dying at idle or slow speeds. The engine abruptly cuts out, but will start back up again without any issue. I've had it idling for an hour in my garage without any stalling. Then I took it out for a run to the grocery store and back without any problem, left it idling in the garage and it died within 5 minutes of returning home. There's no stumble, it just cuts out dead. Scoping voltage at all the sensors through the BOB, as well as the secondary ignition from the coil, doesn't show anything wrong and there are no codes. Well, dang! I think it must be temperature-related and needs to reach a certain temperature before it starts acting up but so far it's really impossible (for me) to pinpoint what the problem is. It's certainly not the oxygen sensor, which is cycling perfectly. Thanks for all the videos.
Does this truck have an obd port? I have just bought an 1989 f150 lariat xlt. Thanks
@@DFWAuto_Hack The problem with my B2 ended up being the distributor Hall effect (crank) sensor (per Scanner Danner). 1988 (and 1989) have OBDI ports but they're pretty useless in comparison with OBDII. The breakout box allows easy access to the computer's inputs and outputs, but you need a voltmeter (and preferably an oscilloscope) to see what's going on. Fortunately, they're a lot simpler than OBDII vehicles so they're really not that difficult to diagnose.
@@OvertheHills i have a voltmeter nd can use it. I have an oscilloscope but cannot use it lol
Mine shakes and stalls at first. If I give it light gas pedal to keep it running, it gets warm nd is good for the whole day. Makes me think about old motorcycles with choke system lol
Transmission wise, it slips from 3rd-4th gear when in D mode; i must switch the gear lever to the mode located at the bottom to keep the power going
@@OvertheHills i did not see a port in mine but noticed 2 engine lights on at the bottom of the dash
@@DFWAuto_Hack An oscilloscope is just a fancy voltmeter that creates a graph of voltage against time. That could be a bad temperature sensor. I'd check the resistance across its terminals to see whether it's within spec. I don't know about the F150 but the OBDI port on my B2 is in the engine compartment on the right side fender near the firewall. Lucky for me I have a manual transmission. Good luck!
Hey Paul, great video. I got an 86 GT 5.0, I got the idle running perfectly. Locked on at approximately 650-675 RPM. However, once in while idling engine warmed up and in close loop, the engine will drop in RPM about 50 RPM and back to normal in a hunting fashion. While its hunting the Vacuum gauge also drops from a steady 18 inches of mercury to about 14 or 15 inches of mercury. At the same time this is happening, I'm monitoring the ECT, IAT, MAP, EGR, PIP/SPT, TPS,IAC (sawtooth waveform) and all parameters were within specs. Finally I performed a amperage check on the IAC while the RPM hunting was occurring, I noticed an increase in the amount of IAC current draw during this RPM hunting. I'm thinking the IAC step motor may be acting up, since normal position of the IAC is closed via spring and maybe the IAC is struggling to keep itself open do to age,etc. The IAC plunger is spotless I cleaned it and the throttle body plate as well is spotless. My next step is too replace the IAC valve, it's the original I'm the original owner but I have always kept it spotless. This Mustang does mods I performed but always ran AWESOME after mods until this recent Idling issue, what do you think about me replacing the IAC, keep up the great work. Oh forgot to state the fuel is rock steady 39 psi and under acceleration increases to 42-43, with no problem. Thanks Paul
Great video. Rode with you all the way thru. Who cares about the seat belt. With trying to figure out what was going on, I'd too would have forgotten to buckle up. Good troubleshooting. Thumbs up!
+Keven G thanks man
Excellent. I really appreciate how you explained your thought process through everything as you went.
Didn't watch the entire video to see if you mentioned this, but the truck had an ignition misfire. At 30:03, just to the left of the TPS, behind the air intake clamp under the throttle body, you can see spark jumping like crazy.
+Alan K there is no plug wire there. I saw what you were talking about but I promise you it wasn't a spark leakage issue
+ScannerDanner I'll be darn. I took a second look after I read your reply and it is evident the plug wire isn't the culprit. I guess looks can be deceiving in a video. I wasn't hating by any means. My apologies if it came across that way. I certainly respect your diagnostic abilities. It's good to see there are techs that use an oscilloscope and know how to interpret live data instead of pulling a trouble code and replacing a part. I see that so often in this field, and I'm sure you do too. I had excellent automotive instructors that taught me how to properly approach diagnostic and repair situations, and it's evident your students are as fortunate as I was.
+Alan K no problem at all brother. I had to go back and look at it myself 2 or 3 times before I was confident enough to reply. Good eye man.
Paul I have a 95 300 with a stick same exact symptom. The only way I was able to stop it was to insert a straw from a spray can to delay the vacuum and that fixed the problem. ford's fix for this was a one way valve with a delay to solve the problem. I cleaned the egr circuit changed the egr solenoid with no difference. but the restriction in the vacuum line eliminated it. I also replaced the 02 sensor. made no difference. hope this helps.
I was thinking verifying base timing too. It was tricky to get the distributor gear and the oil pump key lined up when i put mine back in so i got it as close as i could then adjusted the base timing after i started the engine.
A little tip for you and your fans, watches and rings don't play well with engine compartment. Great video, OBD sure help us out :-),
Paul, thank you for the things that you do , that you don't have to do but you still do it . I really appreciate it.
That was great I did the same truck a few weeks ago and my verus was doing the same thing going back and fourth not sure why. Thats a great tip on testing O2 wiring
Might want to consider a head mounted Go-pro camera? Ive had an O2 sensor repeatedly shut down the truck once its warmed up. No check engine light. Took awhile to figure it out.
Great video.as usual.93 ranger 2.3 new o2 same problem...6 months trouble.plus hidden whistle...checked manafold .flooded with oil..my bad ...old truck .Bad pvc. To much vac on crank case....sucking oil....new pcv truck runs great .(no check light) they say high tech helps..makes me turn gray......lol
I wish I could go to school where you teach. I'm in community college for automotive and you really know what's going on.
You can join me online on my premium channel if your interested. It's free for 14 days, check it out, you will not be disappointed. Just click on this name.
Another great video, thank Mr. Danner. Hopefully it stay's away this time but, I am sure part 3 would be great too. Thank you again
i have the same truck at home except it has a v8 instead. i have learned a lot of patience with this truck. the throttle body was plugged solid and all the bolts on the engine were just finger-tight. that would explain the 3000 rpm right out of the gate, blown head gaskets and burned valves. i almost got i fixed now. but it is winter and 40 miles away outside.
Is it possible to figure the 02 sensor problem without a scope
Great video as always Paul! I really like these videos were we can see you in action and that you don´t leave anything out! Have a nice weekend!
I like your testing skills now I have a problem I would want you to suggest something my ford escort will not run smoothly on regular gas only super will make it sound alright.What could be the problem?
I have a 95 F150 4.9 with 4R70W automatic. I've been chasing a bad surge for a few months, it violently "break dances" at highway speeds. I've done all the usual tune-up stuff, including vacuum lines. Truck now has 190k. Checked and blocked off EGR valve and even did a "poor man's" cylinder leakage test (shooting compressed air into spark plug holes with radiator cap off) - I'm to the point where I either got a bad new part out of the box, or I have a wiring problem.
I had a wierd issue like that with mine , though it’s a 5spd manual - I kinda took a guess at the wierd box shaped thing on the firewall with a vacuum tube to it called the map sensor, that was it I got lucky it ran like a champ
Hi Paul I am building a off road Toyota T100 Pickup for off road racing it has no cat or muffler its strictly off road... what tuneup or adjustments do I need to do to make it run efficent.. ect: fual mixture- timing- or anything else you know about. Thank you Paul your the BEST !!
I got a 89 Ford F250 460, I plugged off the EGR and just completely removed it and plugged the manifold and took off all the vacuum to the egr assembly. Would that be alright to do or do you recommend leaving it on there?
Very true on learning from your mistakes. Could the roughness be from the previous fuel issue? Maybe plugs a bit fouled?
Nice Video Mr. Danner.
When you leaned over to adjust distributor I said to myself "watch them string's buddy". Good tip!
Paul Please put your scan tool on the seat and NOT the steering wheel. I'm sure all of us don't want to see you get hurt from possible SRS deployment and most importantly
Your Kids need there Daddy:) -I'm not sure if the vehicle is equipped with air bag but a good practice would be to never put it there.
Look forward to your next video and Paul thanks for doing what you do.
nice video paul, also a positive way to take care of the comebacks,good attitude , nice my friend
Apreciate all u do...for real=).. think the hardest thing to do was getting underneath the truck when its cold and wet...thanx for all ur hard work.....
good afternoon scanner again my ford f 150 model 1991 goes off at the stop but turns on quickly you can help me
What was that sparking to ground at 30.30 maybe I'll watch the rest and find out?