your a ray of sunshine my hvac brother much love and respect thank you ive been able to elevate from poverty to middle class because of your videos and teachings
Not sure if you realized, but there's a dog that's patiently been sitting at the window, learning about brazing, and it was so intrigued, it did not move !
Over thirty years ago I went through the HVAC course at UTI and my instructor told us to watch for the flame tail to turn green to signify that the copper was the proper temperature to start brazing. Have you heard of this? I have used that for brazing water piping but never brazed on an A/C system. Thanks so much for the great videos Bryan.
Its not an indicator of whether the copper is at the proper temperature but rather an indication of already existing solder on the pipe from which you are brazing. that green flame appears when it is sealing the pipe with the solder.
I was wondering I’m fairly new to the hvac trade and was wondering what’s a good place to go or a good source to learn about chillers and boilers if possible.
If western enterprise the company that makes those vn500 regulators if they came out with a bluetooth regulator that you could control with your phone it would save me many trips back and forth from the attic. Quit often the nitrogen is left running longer than necessary and I end up going through nitrogen bottles quicker than I otherwise would. Also I like to put the regulator on test while I deburr the tubing so the shavings get blown out. Having the ability to turn the nitro on and off without having to run back and forth or have somebody manning the regulator would be amazing in my opinion.
A question for the pro's. For ductless minisplit, would it not be better to cut, and braze the lines (using nitrogen) rather than use the flare nut, as that always seems to be the point of failure / leak.
If a system was installed without using nitrogen, what would be the best way to resolve it? Would it require draining the system, removing the brazed areas, replacing the filter dryer and refilling the system?
It nitrogen wasn't used, the damage is already done. Hope for the best. If the compressor fails, then you can attempt to remove the carbon and acid (if present) by using some type of pipe cleaner (ie Pipe Wiper) The Pipe Wiper is only designed to clean linesets (great for cleaning mineral oil out of linesets when changing unit from R22 to R410A.) The little dobber won't travel through a evaporator coil.
@@josephwilliams1500 i honestly don't think many techs probably go through the trouble of using nitrogen though. there's a proper way, that some businesses employ, but I'm going to hazard a guess that the majority don't bother.
@@julianuk3266 for 3/8 lines i can see. But big 7/8 or 3/4 lines you really have to heat to braze, it's best. I make a valiant effort to. Even with my regulator I float just at the bottom of the range and sometimes it's still too much and I can't get a good braze.
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Fixing to teach a class to our techs on leak testing. Great timing! I’ll share your video with our guys
your a ray of sunshine my hvac brother much love and respect thank you ive been able to elevate from poverty to middle class because of your videos and teachings
Not sure if you realized, but there's a dog that's patiently been sitting at the window, learning about brazing, and it was so intrigued, it did not move !
The exact video i needed to see as i go install an ac after i drink my coffee. Cheers from Canada
Is this part 1? I was waiting for more. lol I love your channel got me righting my wrongs lol kudos to you brother.
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing!
Over thirty years ago I went through the HVAC course at UTI and my instructor told us to watch for the flame tail to turn green to signify that the copper was the proper temperature to start brazing. Have you heard of this? I have used that for brazing water piping but never brazed on an A/C system. Thanks so much for the great videos Bryan.
Its not an indicator of whether the copper is at the proper temperature but rather an indication of already existing solder on the pipe from which you are brazing. that green flame appears when it is sealing the pipe with the solder.
Well, done 👍
I'm superstitious, never pack the oxy acetylene back in the truck until you've done the leak check.
This is so true 😂
Don't insulate flare connections until leak check passes too.
I’m was raised the same way. Can’t put the torches away until we pass decay test
I don’t even turn my manifolds off until I verify no leak
Same way
Same here! Every time I put tools away early, I find a cause to bring them back out.
I bought the Pipe Wiper and it's worth its weight in gold. The extra time it takes to use it is saved but cutting down vacuum time.
It was a bit on the long side but had a lot of good information in it.
I was wondering I’m fairly new to the hvac trade and was wondering what’s a good place to go or a good source to learn about chillers and boilers if possible.
If western enterprise the company that makes those vn500 regulators if they came out with a bluetooth regulator that you could control with your phone it would save me many trips back and forth from the attic. Quit often the nitrogen is left running longer than necessary and I end up going through nitrogen bottles quicker than I otherwise would. Also I like to put the regulator on test while I deburr the tubing so the shavings get blown out. Having the ability to turn the nitro on and off without having to run back and forth or have somebody manning the regulator would be amazing in my opinion.
A question for the pro's. For ductless minisplit, would it not be better to cut, and braze the lines (using nitrogen) rather than use the flare nut, as that always seems to be the point of failure / leak.
If a system was installed without using nitrogen, what would be the best way to resolve it?
Would it require draining the system, removing the brazed areas, replacing the filter dryer and refilling the system?
It nitrogen wasn't used, the damage is already done. Hope for the best. If the compressor fails, then you can attempt to remove the carbon and acid (if present) by using some type of pipe cleaner (ie Pipe Wiper) The Pipe Wiper is only designed to clean linesets (great for cleaning mineral oil out of linesets when changing unit from R22 to R410A.) The little dobber won't travel through a evaporator coil.
@@josephwilliams1500 i honestly don't think many techs probably go through the trouble of using nitrogen though. there's a proper way, that some businesses employ, but I'm going to hazard a guess that the majority don't bother.
@@julianuk3266 for 3/8 lines i can see. But big 7/8 or 3/4 lines you really have to heat to braze, it's best. I make a valiant effort to. Even with my regulator I float just at the bottom of the range and sometimes it's still too much and I can't get a good braze.
41:08 - Uh, _I_ do, Brian!
👍🏾
Great stuff.... except the "jokes"😂
I hate the I don't have time excuse. Make it.
There we go pushing sales again. I just want to fix shit.