I've watched a bunch of videos by two masters: Jason Jensen and the Boomer. One thing I've learned from them is the importance of (a) using washes, and (b) dry brushing. These are tools everyone needs in their arsenal. Cheers.
Wow, you really took on a challenge there, refurbishing that Walther's kit. With all the hurdles you had to overcome, some (me?) may have just put it aside to spend time with something more worthy. But you have shown that there is an inner beauty in every model, no matter how humdrum it's origins. It just takes persistence and inspiration to reveal it. Great job all around! And thanks for the tips on printing decals, I hope to get there someday. Any recommendations on decal paper for inkjet printers?
Thanks for the compliments, Greg. I have a small moving box *full* of complete or partially complete structures that I have consigned to the "don't bother" heap; and I suspect many will remain there forever. For some reason, this building always made me feel a little guilty - I guess that's what made me pull it out of the box. I can't emphasize enough that these "abandoned" models are a great opportunity to try new things: I never would've thought to try Miskit for paint masking, and might not have had the courage to try it on an expensive kit. I buy all my decal paper from MicroMark. MicroMark tends to be a little pricey, but I've always been happy with their decal paper. One caution: It *does* matter what lacquer you use to seal the decal with! I tried Tamiya, Vallejo, and Dullcote; I tried one coat, two coats, and three coats. Both Tamiya and Vallejo allowed the ink to smear, even with three coats. A single coat of Dullcote allowed the ink to smear; but two coats seems to do the job just fine. A third coat starts to make the image cloudy. Good luck!
That was neato. I especially liked how the windows and roof looked.
Nice show, I will take a couple of your ideas on future projects I have. Thanks
What a difference a wash makes. I must remember to use some of your techniques when I build my next structures.
I've watched a bunch of videos by two masters: Jason Jensen and the Boomer. One thing I've learned from them is the importance of (a) using washes, and (b) dry brushing. These are tools everyone needs in their arsenal. Cheers.
Hi, great refurb video.
Thanks!
Wow, you really took on a challenge there, refurbishing that Walther's kit. With all the hurdles you had to overcome, some (me?) may have just put it aside to spend time with something more worthy. But you have shown that there is an inner beauty in every model, no matter how humdrum it's origins. It just takes persistence and inspiration to reveal it. Great job all around! And thanks for the tips on printing decals, I hope to get there someday. Any recommendations on decal paper for inkjet printers?
Thanks for the compliments, Greg. I have a small moving box *full* of complete or partially complete structures that I have consigned to the "don't bother" heap; and I suspect many will remain there forever. For some reason, this building always made me feel a little guilty - I guess that's what made me pull it out of the box.
I can't emphasize enough that these "abandoned" models are a great opportunity to try new things: I never would've thought to try Miskit for paint masking, and might not have had the courage to try it on an expensive kit.
I buy all my decal paper from MicroMark. MicroMark tends to be a little pricey, but I've always been happy with their decal paper. One caution: It *does* matter what lacquer you use to seal the decal with! I tried Tamiya, Vallejo, and Dullcote; I tried one coat, two coats, and three coats. Both Tamiya and Vallejo allowed the ink to smear, even with three coats. A single coat of Dullcote allowed the ink to smear; but two coats seems to do the job just fine. A third coat starts to make the image cloudy.
Good luck!
Awesome, Dick, thanks for the info on the decals. A little guilt can go a long way. 😄