Will give that a go next, thanks. Galan commented below 👇 and used Reikland Flesh which sounds like it would work nicely. I might try with Guilliman flesh Contrast.
@@tabletopskirmishgames Just grabbed a jar of the stone concrete colour - got some minis that I really want to test out some colourful flowers coming up through the concrete with some blood splashing on top so light basing will be perfect, should look great!
It's like tile grout, it's also good for gluing the model to the base. You can also use a wet brush to move it about on the base or make shapes with it.
I LOVE the Vallejo texture pastes; I’ve made extensive use of one called Grey Pumice, and it works great as either soil or sand depending on how you paint it. It’s also interesting because it dries solid, but not hard. It must have some rubber cement or something in it, because you can press your nail into it and it’ll spring back. I also highly recommend the Thick Russian Mud.
Oh yeah, I didn't notice that, nice one. That explains why the skull moves a bit on the third base I tried. Thick Russian Mud sounds like a plan, thanks for the recommend!
I love the Vallejo texture stuff... Such a great value. The water is amazing too and I recently tried some of AK interactive diorama effects and very happy with that as well
I got back into the hobby shortly before lockdown and was flabbergasted when I saw the price of some of GW's texture pastes. Needless to say, finding Vallejo's equivalents was a bit of a eureka moment and this particular one has been my go-to for basing ever since. I don't often use it on its own, but I find it works great with a layer of mixed-aggregate sand over the top, with a few little stones thrown in for good measure. Helps that I'm not even halfway through one pot over two years later - lavvley!
My favourite is the dark earth paste. I wash it with 50:50 agrax/lahmian, let it dry, drybrush with karak stone then wash again with the same mix. Great dark earth/soil effect.
I use the generic white ground mix for a lot of my bases, mostly because it's easier to just make it any color rather than having multiple colors on hand. Love the stuff. Quick tip for snow, I use it straight outta the tub, but I use a little AK white water foam to soften up some areas. Ends up giving a nice blend of hard and softer looking snow. I finish it off with a light dusting of a blue-green pearlescent pigment followed with pigment locking fluid. Ends up looking really good with minimal time investment.
@@tabletopskirmishgames I have AK and Vallejo pigments here which are all earthy organic colors (dust, earth, soot, ash, etc.) The blue-green pearlescence is actually from House of Kolor, which is an automotive paint company. Leftovers from my car painting days. HoK is pretty high dollar stuff (it's priced for car shops), but I think most artist pearlescent pigments would essentially act the same way. You'd just have to find a color that suits the application. I lucked out that this one color worked so well, but I would start on the B-G end of the spectrum for Ice/snow.
I will say, nail salon pigments offer a really broad range of colors and effects for fairly reasonable prices. Worth a look around that area of the store, you might find something useful for minis.
Thank you for the suggestion of mixing flock, gotta try to mix it it Army Painter brown battleground. I have brown earth from Vallejo, so not exactly the same but pretty much. It is my go to dungeon-ish base. I also use a brown wash on the base before drybrushing for more contrast. It does dry agitatingly (that's a word right?) hard, especially when you accidentally hit on the side of the base and didn't notice. One does not have to be too careful when applying to a model already glued in base as the muddy nature works on tips of boots and end of cloaks or anything hanging around. These make also a nice snowy base when applied with a brush and given few swirls here and there, then priming white. I know you can buy a white one separately but just one bottle has lasted well over 200 bases and mine has now maybe hit the 50% mark.
I have this one and the Grey Sand one as well, they're so good for the value! Just the leftovers from the paper cover thingy were enough to base a few models. I still like some of the GW texture ones, particularly the "crusting" textures but for general use I've switched to Vallejo, even over regular sand and glue
I use the light brown version you used for my blood bowl bases. I just put static grass on top and it looks way better than just painting the base underneath.
It's really good stuff. I didn't notice until John pointed it out here in the comments, but when it dries it's got a hard rubbery quality to it so it must have some rubber cement in. That makes it great for adding extra bits of the flock or stones.
Thanks for this vid. I'm going for a 'mars tundra' thing for my new T'au army and wasn't sure if I should mix some extra material into the texture paint. From your video, I think leaving the material as it is will work for the effect I'm looking for. Maybe dust it in some base ready Mars material on at the end. Much appreciated!
As so many of us do, I've got Arrakis on the brain. I feel like the paint without highlights looks like beach sand. Then with the highlights, looks like a desert. Nice!
I use it with D&D minis after I glue them onto a better base, to fill in around the randomly shaped bases they come on, to give the base a uniform level. I do a darker wash, then a lighter drybrush, and some static grass tufts for a nice earthy look with bits of vegetation. I hadn't thought of using it for my 40k bases. I might try that soon with a different color like grey.
I usually make my own texture basing paste but sometimes i use the stirland mud from citadel. I have seen this pot a few times in my local gale store but never knew how it would work. Good informative video man, thanks. I think I will pick one up as it is not expensive for the amount you get.
It's great value and I think it will be good for the Imperium collection to keep everything uniform as I'll be doing a few models each month instead of all at the same time. Thanks for watching!
The dark earth one its also quite dope. And dont forget you can shade them too. I made different try bases in order to find mine color combination. (Reikalnd flesh was an unexpected winner of this)
Nice video, you made me want to use this to make my army stand out! I have a question, can you add a layer of watered down ink on top of these textures? I have a rock gray like color, and and i would like to emphasize the cracks
I haven't tried ink, but you can definitely add shade, contrast paints etc so I'm sure inks would be fine too. It's a good idea to add a shade and a dry brush highlight to get the most out of this. Let me know how it goes, be cool to hear.
Awesome video, I've got mine on order now. One thing I can't find much info on is how to get grass tufts on a base that I also want to clear coat. Do you do the grass after the clear coat? Or just cover it in when clear coating? Might be a neat idea for next video. Thanks!
I've been using this for a while but I used to put it before I primed, just recently I started exploiting the color, but it's quite hard to dry brush it once your model is already there. And it's kinda impossible to put this before the model for slotta.
I guess for the slot you could prime the model, then add the paste, then drybrush, then touch up the primed model feet where the dry brushing went on it?
Have you tried mixing in paint yet? My pots are good, but, a little on the red clay side for generic earth. I tried mixing in about 5% of the desert sand version which helped but that ones fairly yellow so it quickly gets a too orange. Interesting that it recommends "air" color paints and not regular. Being so thin, wouldn't the paste get "goopy" fast?
@@tabletopskirmishgames Tried some VMC flat earth & brown sand in the Vallejo white rough pumice. Worked well, but the colors ended up faded about 1/2 strength. I did use nearly a 50-50 mix too.
I love this stuff, but my big issue is when it starts drying out. I end throwing away 1/3 to 1/2 of the tub if I don't use it within a few months. Maybe I'm not tightening the lid enough, but it is frustrating.
It's great to see the word 'vegan' come up in a modelling/painting context: Vegan make up brushes are fairly easy to come by, however whilst I can see the benefits of sable brushes I'm not going to compromise my ethical beliefs for the sake of a 'better' paintbrush. There are a few choices for high quality synthetic paintbrushes but the big issue is that sometimes you have to dig down or even ask the manufacturer to find out exactly what a particular brush is made from.
@@tabletopskirmishgames When it comes to ready made basing products, Vallejo is the best choice. BUT the problem is that these paints are basically gel medium + color + sand and they are prone to drying out. So if you want to base a huge army, you can give 9-10 euro and spare yourself the trouble. Bit if you open this pot, base a couple of minis and then sit down again to paint a month later or more, you might find yourself as the proud owner of an unusuable acrylic jelly. Making your own basing paste gives you control over the quantity you really want and offcourse the specific color.
those GW technical textures always look like they're only ever enough for one or two bases. That Vallejo earth texture looks like it could do an entire army with just the one pot ... Scale75 do something similar ... I wonder how that would compare.
There's a commenter here who I think did 200 bases and still only half way through which is awesome. I've done 26 models and only really scraped the surface. This is my new favourite modelling product, it's brilliant.
GW technicals are better only when you want the specific effect, like the ones that crack or their snow etc. Most of the time the offerings from other companies are more bang for you buck but (and I think this is both a pro and a con) take a little more work to get the exact effect one wants. Look at green stuff world's textures if you get the chance. They are fantastic.
I like adding a wash to these and then dry brushing. I’m looking forward to seeing your models on them
Will give that a go next, thanks. Galan commented below 👇 and used Reikland Flesh which sounds like it would work nicely. I might try with Guilliman flesh Contrast.
The timing of this is on point - been looking at this stuff for awhile now
Awesome! It's great to use, really glad I picked a jar up.
@@tabletopskirmishgames Just grabbed a jar of the stone concrete colour - got some minis that I really want to test out some colourful flowers coming up through the concrete with some blood splashing on top so light basing will be perfect, should look great!
That sounds cool!
It's like tile grout, it's also good for gluing the model to the base.
You can also use a wet brush to move it about on the base or make shapes with it.
That's sounds great to fix the models with it, thanks for the tips!
I love the value of Vallejo's big texture jars.
Great value! Really impressed with this, so glad I bought a jar. These will be be my go to basing paste now.
I LOVE the Vallejo texture pastes; I’ve made extensive use of one called Grey Pumice, and it works great as either soil or sand depending on how you paint it. It’s also interesting because it dries solid, but not hard. It must have some rubber cement or something in it, because you can press your nail into it and it’ll spring back. I also highly recommend the Thick Russian Mud.
Oh yeah, I didn't notice that, nice one. That explains why the skull moves a bit on the third base I tried. Thick Russian Mud sounds like a plan, thanks for the recommend!
I love the Vallejo texture stuff... Such a great value. The water is amazing too and I recently tried some of AK interactive diorama effects and very happy with that as well
I haven't tried any water textures yet but will give it a go, thanks for the recommends!
I got back into the hobby shortly before lockdown and was flabbergasted when I saw the price of some of GW's texture pastes. Needless to say, finding Vallejo's equivalents was a bit of a eureka moment and this particular one has been my go-to for basing ever since. I don't often use it on its own, but I find it works great with a layer of mixed-aggregate sand over the top, with a few little stones thrown in for good measure. Helps that I'm not even halfway through one pot over two years later - lavvley!
Like that idea of sprinkling over the top, nice one!
Nice to see your still making good content my man seriously under rated
Thank you!
My favourite is the dark earth paste. I wash it with 50:50 agrax/lahmian, let it dry, drybrush with karak stone then wash again with the same mix. Great dark earth/soil effect.
Thanks for sharing, that sounds like a great recipe.
Perfect timing for this vid for me at least. I was just looking up how Vallejo textures fair!
Awesome, hope it was helpful. This stuff is awesome!
If you wash it with aggrax earthshade then drybrush a brown it makes a very good muddy base.
Nice one, I'll give that a go for sure!
I use the generic white ground mix for a lot of my bases, mostly because it's easier to just make it any color rather than having multiple colors on hand. Love the stuff. Quick tip for snow, I use it straight outta the tub, but I use a little AK white water foam to soften up some areas. Ends up giving a nice blend of hard and softer looking snow. I finish it off with a light dusting of a blue-green pearlescent pigment followed with pigment locking fluid. Ends up looking really good with minimal time investment.
I haven't tried any pigments or water effects yet so this all sounds great. What pigments would you recommend?
@@tabletopskirmishgames I have AK and Vallejo pigments here which are all earthy organic colors (dust, earth, soot, ash, etc.) The blue-green pearlescence is actually from House of Kolor, which is an automotive paint company. Leftovers from my car painting days. HoK is pretty high dollar stuff (it's priced for car shops), but I think most artist pearlescent pigments would essentially act the same way. You'd just have to find a color that suits the application. I lucked out that this one color worked so well, but I would start on the B-G end of the spectrum for Ice/snow.
I will say, nail salon pigments offer a really broad range of colors and effects for fairly reasonable prices. Worth a look around that area of the store, you might find something useful for minis.
Thank you for the suggestion of mixing flock, gotta try to mix it it Army Painter brown battleground. I have brown earth from Vallejo, so not exactly the same but pretty much. It is my go to dungeon-ish base. I also use a brown wash on the base before drybrushing for more contrast.
It does dry agitatingly (that's a word right?) hard, especially when you accidentally hit on the side of the base and didn't notice. One does not have to be too careful when applying to a model already glued in base as the muddy nature works on tips of boots and end of cloaks or anything hanging around.
These make also a nice snowy base when applied with a brush and given few swirls here and there, then priming white. I know you can buy a white one separately but just one bottle has lasted well over 200 bases and mine has now maybe hit the 50% mark.
Thanks, got to try with a wash next. Great to know how many bases you've got out of it so far, that is a lot!
I have this one and the Grey Sand one as well, they're so good for the value! Just the leftovers from the paper cover thingy were enough to base a few models. I still like some of the GW texture ones, particularly the "crusting" textures but for general use I've switched to Vallejo, even over regular sand and glue
They are really good, I'll have to try a combo of GW crusting and Vallejo next!
I use the light brown version you used for my blood bowl bases. I just put static grass on top and it looks way better than just painting the base underneath.
Nice one, that’s a great way to do the bloodbowl bases. Have you tried the coffee stirrer to do the white lines?
@@tabletopskirmishgames yes I use that on a lot of my bases aswell 👍
Yes, must get some of that stuff.
It's really good stuff. I didn't notice until John pointed it out here in the comments, but when it dries it's got a hard rubbery quality to it so it must have some rubber cement in. That makes it great for adding extra bits of the flock or stones.
Used this on some Kreig and was able to set Barbed wire coils right into it
Awesome, it does set firm so that's great to know.
Thanks for this vid. I'm going for a 'mars tundra' thing for my new T'au army and wasn't sure if I should mix some extra material into the texture paint.
From your video, I think leaving the material as it is will work for the effect I'm looking for. Maybe dust it in some base ready Mars material on at the end.
Much appreciated!
Thanks for the video! Should I be using primer before putting this down?
I've done it with primer and without and it has worked fine both ways.
As so many of us do, I've got Arrakis on the brain. I feel like the paint without highlights looks like beach sand. Then with the highlights, looks like a desert. Nice!
A Dune tabletop skirmish would be fantastic!
I love that stuff. Although I prefer Dark Earth color wise. You can get really fine when using a moist brush.
Nice tip, thanks!
Great stuff, been using it for a few years now. Add a wash or paint works well too. I have a few different ones.
Nice one, will try some washes for sure.
I use it with D&D minis after I glue them onto a better base, to fill in around the randomly shaped bases they come on, to give the base a uniform level. I do a darker wash, then a lighter drybrush, and some static grass tufts for a nice earthy look with bits of vegetation. I hadn't thought of using it for my 40k bases. I might try that soon with a different color like grey.
The grey is good, I've made a video for that here if you'd like to check it out: ruclips.net/video/jgq4p_fpy6o/видео.html
I usually make my own texture basing paste but sometimes i use the stirland mud from citadel. I have seen this pot a few times in my local gale store but never knew how it would work. Good informative video man, thanks. I think I will pick one up as it is not expensive for the amount you get.
It's great value and I think it will be good for the Imperium collection to keep everything uniform as I'll be doing a few models each month instead of all at the same time. Thanks for watching!
The dark earth one its also quite dope. And dont forget you can shade them too. I made different try bases in order to find mine color combination. (Reikalnd flesh was an unexpected winner of this)
Nice, thanks, will give that a go for sure!
@@tabletopskirmishgames Another tip is to use Aggaros Dunes and then drybrush with tyrant skull and terminatus stone
need to pick this up thx for the review
Nice one, thanks for watching!
Used this for a while, you can get some nice results using a fine tipped artist pallet knife.
Nice one!
Nice video, you made me want to use this to make my army stand out! I have a question, can you add a layer of watered down ink on top of these textures? I have a rock gray like color, and and i would like to emphasize the cracks
I haven't tried ink, but you can definitely add shade, contrast paints etc so I'm sure inks would be fine too. It's a good idea to add a shade and a dry brush highlight to get the most out of this. Let me know how it goes, be cool to hear.
Awesome video, I've got mine on order now. One thing I can't find much info on is how to get grass tufts on a base that I also want to clear coat. Do you do the grass after the clear coat? Or just cover it in when clear coating? Might be a neat idea for next video. Thanks!
Ooh good question. 🤔 I think I would clear coat then tuft. Be good to hear what others do. Thanks for the video idea!
I tuft after the varnish coat.
I've been using this for a while but I used to put it before I primed, just recently I started exploiting the color, but it's quite hard to dry brush it once your model is already there. And it's kinda impossible to put this before the model for slotta.
I guess for the slot you could prime the model, then add the paste, then drybrush, then touch up the primed model feet where the dry brushing went on it?
i use it and start with agrax earthshade then drybrush karak stone followed by a higlight with flayed one flesh
Sounds like a good recipe!
Have you tried mixing in paint yet? My pots are good, but, a little on the red clay side for generic earth. I tried mixing in about 5% of the desert sand version which helped but that ones fairly yellow so it quickly gets a too orange. Interesting that it recommends "air" color paints and not regular. Being so thin, wouldn't the paste get "goopy" fast?
I haven't yet. Yeah I would think the air colours would make it thin and goopy too.
@@tabletopskirmishgames Tried some VMC flat earth & brown sand in the Vallejo white rough pumice. Worked well, but the colors ended up faded about 1/2 strength. I did use nearly a 50-50 mix too.
For anyone interested the Vallejo version of Rakarth flesh is Bonewhite (if memory serves) :)
But then your dealing with the opposite problem of GW. One too thick, one too thin lol
Thank you
" sometimes it takes days to dry " .....I laugh during a forecast of 37 degrees in a City Down Under
🤣 I'm not jealous at all.
Forgot - before doing all of that I paint with v thinned steel legion drab
AK Interactive Dark Earth is also great as well
Thanks, I'm keen to try different products so this is great thanks.
I live in a hot climate above 2.5k above sea lvl and mine always come a little exploded but I really love the product so I take the risk
That's a commitment!
I love this stuff, but my big issue is when it starts drying out. I end throwing away 1/3 to 1/2 of the tub if I don't use it within a few months. Maybe I'm not tightening the lid enough, but it is frustrating.
I store mine in a ziplock bag with as much air as i can get out, and mine has lasted over a year.
Ziplock sounds like a plan, thanks for the tip!
What do u use to apply it
Hello, just stumbled on your video - how close is the colour with agrellan earth?
Hi, it's a touch more yellowy, but if you are adding washed and highlights/drybrush I think it would be very close.
This is the worst peanut butter I've ever tasted
Haha yes I had to resist 🤪
It's great to see the word 'vegan' come up in a modelling/painting context: Vegan make up brushes are fairly easy to come by, however whilst I can see the benefits of sable brushes I'm not going to compromise my ethical beliefs for the sake of a 'better' paintbrush. There are a few choices for high quality synthetic paintbrushes but the big issue is that sometimes you have to dig down or even ask the manufacturer to find out exactly what a particular brush is made from.
You can make your own with cheap acrylic + talcum + fine sand.
That sounds cool, I would never have thought to use talcum, great tip thanks!
@@tabletopskirmishgames When it comes to ready made basing products, Vallejo is the best choice. BUT the problem is that these paints are basically gel medium + color + sand and they are prone to drying out. So if you want to base a huge army, you can give 9-10 euro and spare yourself the trouble. Bit if you open this pot, base a couple of minis and then sit down again to paint a month later or more, you might find yourself as the proud owner of an unusuable acrylic jelly. Making your own basing paste gives you control over the quantity you really want and offcourse the specific color.
those GW technical textures always look like they're only ever enough for one or two bases.
That Vallejo earth texture looks like it could do an entire army with just the one pot ...
Scale75 do something similar ... I wonder how that would compare.
There's a commenter here who I think did 200 bases and still only half way through which is awesome. I've done 26 models and only really scraped the surface. This is my new favourite modelling product, it's brilliant.
GW technicals are better only when you want the specific effect, like the ones that crack or their snow etc.
Most of the time the offerings from other companies are more bang for you buck but (and I think this is both a pro and a con) take a little more work to get the exact effect one wants.
Look at green stuff world's textures if you get the chance. They are fantastic.
Love the crackles pastes from GW. Will have a look at Green Stuff textures, thanks for the recommend!
The forbidden peanut butter
Haha it does look tasty! 🤣
Forbidden frappe latte
🤣
Just don't lick the spoon
It looks like a bottle of Peanuts Butter hahah
Citadel is like $500 per Litre . Costs me $6 for 12ml here . No idea why gamers use it on terrain .
These Vallejo pots are great. I recently did a review of the grey pumice too.
Keep that away from kids......looks like peanut butter 😂
Haha the urge to eat it was strong 🤪
Cheap acrylic paint and sand...
I've used that before on some big terrain pieces and it worked great.
The forbidden peanut butter
🤣
The forbidden peanut butter
😋