And four years later I can still say the same thing. You're the lifeguard of poor Ford owners who are treading the cesspool of modern automotive engineering . Thanks so much! Mark 2007 Lincoln navigator, 5.4L 3v
FordTechMakuloco: THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Thank you SO much for this video! I was having a nearly IDENTICAL problem with my vehicle (Nissan Frontier). I had taken a long trip, and on the way home, my vehicle was doing the same exact thing, at the same speed range. I was agonizing over what might have been a nearly $6,000 repair/replacement for a transmission. Luckily, last night, I came across your video, so I watched the whole video. Today, I did use a scan tool, and, SURE ENOUGH, I found misfire events on one cylinder. I pulled the coil pack on that cylinder, and the coil pack assembly was broken. Since my vehicle is high mileage and 8 years old, I replaced all the coil pack assemblies. My vehicle runs great now!!! I spent $400 instead of potentially $6,000. Again, THANK YOU!!!! (I am going to share your video on RUclips, hoping it can help some other people, too)
@@jacobadams8073 ...It is possible. The best way to find out is a scan tool. Another very quick way is to pull each coil pack and physically check each one for damage/excessive wear. This would eliminate or possibly confirm the jerking. One last thing: check the cleanliness of your throttle body assembly AND your MAF sensor. Good luck, but best bet is a scan tool.
Someone told me it could be my catalytic converter. But I asked my friend to check it out and he told me I need knew coils and spark plugs and it’s crazy because my check engine light was blinking like the video and would shut off after four blinks. Then went home and left to buy a code reader and it had 3 misfire codes 0300 0302 and 0304. It’s just crazy how my friend knew what potentially could be my problem for power loss and thanks to this video I have hope 🙏
07 Explorer, 40mph in OD plus a light load created violent jerk. Independent wanted to pull trans, rebuild/diagnose for $3000. Took to dealership was told #5 needs COP and plug. A few more of your videos about the dreaded 3V plug and less than $500 later runs perfect. Thanks for all the great videos!
thank you so much for this video. this is exactly what my ford expedition is experiencing. this saturday my mechanic will be changing the spark plugs and coils
05 Ford F350 5.4 3v Truck was doing that and eventually was throwing code for cylinder 5 and 6 misfire p0300 p0305 p0306 Load on my scanner at idle was at 39% timing was reading from 15 to 45 rough idle and rough start up . Was shaking like crazy. Under load flashing light and goes away when you let go. All plugs and coils checked out good no water or anything else in the holes. Left side cover off and it turned out to be #6 exhaust valve spring was broken. Well while in there already did complete timing job and all following your instructions. Couldn't have done this without you. Your work is much appreciated. Thank you
A lot of people don't know that the Alternator can also cause a car to jerk....I had this experience before.....what happens is, your car is losing power and if the alternator is bad or has bad voltage being sent between the battery and distributor cap, the power won't get sent properly to those other parts like the spark plugs which would misfire.
I've been experiencing jerks for about 8mo now, when accelerating between 25-35mph, and also while maintaining a speed of about 45mph. No lights on the dash, and no codes thrown... until yesterday. Check engine light came on, then battery light. Got the battery tested, and they said my voltage regulator is faulty. I've been wondering all day if the two are related?
Dodge nitro 2008, exact same symptoms and few garages tried to rip me off trying to convince me it is a transmission problem.. However, rpm not fluctuating, no engine lights triggering.. Feels like car wants to shift down when I slightly press gas pedal while climbing slope.. Replaced all spark plugs and all problem has gone.. Thanks for your graphic demonstration of this problem. God bless you.
this was the video that i used to repair my issue same problem no mechanic was able to find the issue until i had an friend that had an ford IDS program and showed him this video and agree that cylinder 5 was causing the misfire .replaced the coils on all and spark plugs i have used pulse star. PROBLEM FIXED . THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Thanks very much.. I thought it was my transmission because I had gotten new engine mounts and I sometimes would feel that hard jerk on the engine... and the only codes that came on were fuel injection codes .... The more you know
I have a ford Ranger with a cylinder 4 misfire code and a shake and occasional jerk. I replaced the plug wire and coil pack. It seems to run better with no misses so far, but the dead miss is so intermittent it is hard to tell if that is the fix. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much...you save me a transmission job...had this same misfire since Christmas..jerking and slamming. And it was a dead mis...one coil.was totally dead..change all 4
Ford Ranger 2014 model 2.2l 4x2 (manual tranny, turbo). The problem is, when at 2nd gear or 3rd gear and accelerating from a running stage or climbing it's power is so weak, if rpm is below 1500 it doesn't have power on it, it just slowly picking up and picking up power even if it's already floored. It's so weak it feels like stalling if you have not enough propulsion goin up or if the car you are following suddenly drops speed then you have to change to the lower gears immediately or press clutch then rev it or else you will stall. But then, when rpm finally gets past 2k, it will suddenly picks up power like a a multiple vtec-like power just kicks in. The power delivery is not smooth. Slow acceleration then only picks up power at certain rpm. I replaced all filters already (Fuel filter, Engine Air intake filter) I also changed oil on engine, transmission and even the rear axles with all-AMSOIL fluids. I also asked a friend to clean the EGR. I also replaced the turbo hose in the top. I also added an TECHRON Diesel additive in my last fuel fill to clean injector and fuel lines. Yes I feel a little bit of improvement after all of these cleaning and stuff, but the uneven power delivery and poor low rpm power is still there, it's still bothering me. It's not like that before, I tried two trucks of the same model and specs from a group and they does not act like they were smooth and torqy. It's not normal. What should I check? Shall I clean the exhaust? Catalytic, does it have catalytic or something? At higher speeds no problem, it's a fast truck when it's already at speed. One thing I am noticing is when accelerating the sound also has a tractor-like sound effect if it's accelerating and the tractor sound effect goes away when it gets to speed already. But pressing gas and revving when parked does not create that sound. the sound only appears when accelerating.
shifting is also not smooth, there is a jerk when shifting to other gears.. harsher on downshift. No matter how good rev match I do, it still not smooth transition of gears. No check engines in the Ford Ranger.
Hi Makuloco I just got me a project 06 F-150 5.4 Triton V8. 77k miles and it misfires under load. The repair is straight forward (new spark plugs and ignition coils). If I want to advance my auto repair skills I need a scanner to learn how to diagnose like you did in this video. I was recommended the Autel MaxiAp200 and FORScan, but I rather get a recommendation from an actual Ford mechanic that has extensive knowlegde on the Triton V8. Thanks in advance!
I've been driving with bad ignition coils, and have had the symptoms you describe at the start. But those are actual downshifts, due to the lack of power in the engine.
It's exactly what my Altima was doing. I thought it was a trans issue. The symptoms were exact. Turns out my spark plugs were extremely worn. Listen to him. He's on point.
I had a misfire under load...pulled all of my coil packs and wires...found all of them were corroded and cleaned them all up / lubricated springs, checked boots. The coil packs had over 200,000 miles on them. - Problem solved. No check engine ever flashed. In the past, I did have a coil go out and the check engine light came on right away. This was different. I have a 2008 F 150 5.4 / 3...this truck has been bullet proof. Keep the oil changed and the radiator filled with fresh, clean fluid and you're good.
2009 ranger same harsh miss, only in overdrive going up a hill when the trans should downshift. Tested everything. This happened 1 year after changing spark plugs with NGK. Replace NGK with Motocraft, same issue. Finally replaced plug wires and problem solved, and I should have done this before changing the NGK spark plugs. NEVER had an issue with NGK on any vehicle or equipment I have used NGK spark plugs on. Even Ford with no codes couldn't find it, except that I should have the trans fluid changed. At $250 less tax I am glad I did my own testing. Hard miss as Brian has said in another video is usually seconday ignition. He was bang on with that.
Perfectly explained the issue I had with my 3.5 mkx. Took two Ford dealers to diagnose. Thankfully the second dealership had a thoughtful tech who took my vehicle home and drove it for awhile with the scanner on it and finally diagnosed it. Now I recognize it happening again. This time is a full on tune up.
thanks for this video. My problem is the same, but i have a 5.4l and I believe it was never serviced while owned prior to me... it is sad how people take advantage of others.
Had this happen on my mom's '99 Mustang GT 4.6L 2v/auto trans. Felt like trans stutter between 3rd and 4th (40~45mph) during light acceleration. Checked trans fluid;ok. Had her take it to our her local Ford dealership and they told her it was a bad coil on cyl #1. Didn't make any sense to me since it only occurred as stated. In my way of thinking I figured I should have also felt it during WOT but didn't. But I went ahead and temporarily swapped in a spare known good coil from my '06 GT 4.6L GT (swapped the coil boots too). Noticed that there was dried out dielectric grease in the original boot and tip of coil spring and cleaned them up. Test drove it and no stuttering. Hmmm. Swapped the coils back just to be sure. Again no stuttering. Must have been poor contact between the tip of the spark plug and the coil tip (solid tip on spring). Though the tech was correct in diagnosing a misfire he was quick to say it was a failed coil which they wanted to charge $150 to replace.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH My truck is Nissan pathfinder 2001 2WD has exact problem for months,i thought that is transmission problem,after watched your video last night i run to auto parts next day and get new set of sparkplug Bosch.wow,power gain and down shift seem like is gone,a very very slightly some time,now i just need clean MAP sensor and re-adjust throttle position sensor too.Thank you again.
Bi-directional scan tools are pretty cheap these days. Mine has paid for itself many times over. If you want to keep your vehicle for long after it’s paid off, buy a Bi-directional scan tool. Even the Chinese ones are really good and typically come with a few years of free updates.
2007 5.4 F150 I just had this exact thing happen to me two weeks ago before I saw this video. Thought my transmission was going out. Next day it threw a code, misfire on cylinder 7. Changed the plug and 1,000 miles later all seems to be well.
I own a Ford Fusion 2015 SE 2.0 ECOBOOST engine that’s FWD. My car has done 54K KMS and since 20K KMS I’ve been having issues with my transmission and facing the following concerns 1. At lowers gears, the shifts are slightly delayed, harsh and lurches the car forward if the gear shifts at lower acceleration and speeds especially during traffic situations 2. When I bring the car to a complete stop, the car produces a knocking sound and lurches forward at the last reverse gear shift 3. I feel the 3rd reverse gear shift to be harder and harsh compared to others 4. When I accelerate from zero, there is a knocking sound as well. I’ve been complaining about this to Ford since 20K KMS and they have been coming back stating this is normal in this car, but I don’t think so as this is not normal characteristic of any car. At 30K KMS I went ahead and escalated the issue to the service manager who then observed this characteristic of the car and then decided to observe keeping the car for like 10 days and decided to change some solenoids along with some drive cycle was done with some software reprogramming. This did help to reduce the issue but I feel now it has come back making it really irritating to drive the car and I’m not satisfied I’ve gone back to the service manager and asked to give me a test drive on the same model so that I can confirm if this is a normal characteristic of this car. Which they said they will take a week and get back to me. do you feel this is an issue with my transmission? Have you come across such situations with cars, and what would you do ? Let me know ...
I have a 2006 Ford F150 that is doing exactly this ! My truck is in shop right now having all plugs replaced and it's 1000$ dollars ! I really hope I'm not wasting my money when its the coils , But then again they are original plugs from 2006 and truck has 166000 km
2009 Flex. I changed the plugs and coil packs 5 months ago and everything was running great. Until now. It feels like 2 cylinders are cutting out. What could cause them to go bad so quickly?
I want to tell you thank you so much for this video it went out an back to Ford dealership.First trip did reflash ,on second trip it was throwing codes P0717 an U0100. .. they changed both sensors out picked vehicle up thinking its fixed.No still missing feeling like transmission slipping. .....hooked up to scanner no codes.Had them hook computer an drive it different story misfire on coil #1 an #4 .......so going to fix end of this week an replace all plugs. FORD FLEX 2009 lets hope this does it!!!!;)
I recently took my car to the shop with a misfire on #5 in a Cadillac DeVille DTS. Now they have took the ground wire routed to the #4 & 5. Now transmission switching horrible. I believe they burned out the ground wire.
This is what is happening on my 04 5.4L Triton Expidition. Just had 3000 dollars worth of work done. Mostly front suspension stuff but also Spark plug, boots, coils, everything were replaced. Had the car back for a bout a week or so and im getting this hesitation and misfire on acceleration. Took it back to shop today. Just dropped it off. Under warranty. Hopefully it's within the spark plugs. I cant dish out anymore money for this truck. I do love the truck tho.
I have a 2005 Ford Escape doing the same thing once I hit over 45-50mph. I’ll change 4,5,6 spark plug and coil boots. Can’t do 1,2,3 because there under the manifold. Hopefully one of them solves the problem.... thanks for the info
Hard shift 1-2...changed shift accumulator, MAF sensor, VSS, transmission fluid and no luck. Havent changed TPS because i feel you have to recalibrate it. Ive also searched around and read spark plugs/wires cause mis-fire which is causing the hard shift 1-2.
This is exactly what my Mercury Mariner does and it has been to 2 Ford dealerships and several independent mechanics that can't seem to diagnose it. It is pretty much a new car with everything they have replaced on it (that hasn't helped).
Good info. My 08 F-150 5.4 is doing this and I first thought it was trans.. It almost never fails, not through all rpms and gears but always at around 1200 RPM between 40-50 mph with any pull on the engine It starts jerking hard repeatedly. If I stab the gas and it pulls harder It still noticeably does it and the check light starts flashing just as it does here. Now to see if I can afford to have it checked out..
my ‘93 mark viii 4.6 dohc feels like it’s got a trans problem at around 38-40mph...feels like torque converter slipping...jerks when i let off the gas. i get a check engine light occasionally too. now i wonder if its a misfire. i’ve got new plugs and wires...maybe i’ll replace my two coil packs and see what happens!
Same here on my 2000 F150. NOBODY seems to be addressing this issue. I've been told the transmission, torque converter, u-joints, coil packs, and now the spark plugs... after weeks and weeks of independent research, I have found that I have coolant leaking into my spark plug wells and have realized that this is a VERY common issue with the TRITON 4.6, 5.4, and 6.3 engines due to a faulty air intake design. I now need to order myself a quality intake system ($120-$400) and possibly even inspect my catalytic converter after driving around with this occasional issue for months now and no engine light. I am ranting, but am also mindlessly typing during this informative video. Part of this issue could be a faulty u-joint if the issue is just slight jolting and start and stopping with a slightly eratic humm while driving, but in my case - it is definitely a misfire. UPDATE: engine light came on, and I pulled into O'Reillys and had a P0300 code, which is multiple random misfires... time to change my plugs and diagnose the issue... I am by no means q professional and am just a mechanically inclined college kid who loves my truck more than I probably should.
140k miles, 2013 3.5 N/A. This happened to me a year ago. I replaced the front 3 coils and plugs (which did fix symptoms) I was unable to replace the 3 close to fire wall because i lacked proper tools and confidence in my skill level. Today im replacing those by a certified ford mechanic LOL..
I have a 98 ford ranger 4.0 that stutters misfires and hesitating under low rpm load or right after up shifts and low power and bad fuel economy what could it be ?
2008 Taurus limited same symptoms but it was the trans oil. 203k no trans oil changes. Needs trans oil change every 60k . Changed the trans oil and runs good now. No codes either.
I have something that seems similar to this. I have a 2006 Pontiac grand prix that occasionally dies immediately after its started. It's also sometimes pretty rough to start. I've also noticed this "jerking" that he referred to in the video, only it happens when my car is upshifting. I'm worried it may be the transmission but after watching this I'm hoping its not
I have a 2005 grand prix with a weird shifting issue. It revs a few times rather than shift into 2nd and 3rd then eventually shifts 4th. Then it goes into this weird mode where the engine noise changes and it makes a surging noise from 1st into 2nd gear and shifts hard then shifts hard and weird in 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't rev in this "mode" it actually shifts rather than rev but shifts hard and weird every gear. When I turn off car and turn it on after 30 seconds this mode goes away. Only right when i drive the car for the 1st time for the day it shifts normal for a couple min. Does everybody know what this is? There is no check engine light on either.
I have cylinder 4 & 2 misfire with map sensor code and shuddering at 40 m.p.h. in 3rd or overdrive. In 2nd it will misfire but wont shudder. What do u think? Thanks for advice. Its a 2005 ford escape with 3.0. Engine light is on.
Hi thanks for you video it stopped me from removing my transmission which i was about to start removing in an hour my 99 windstar started to shudder when light acceleration especially on hills or loaded van with the ac on and hard up/down shifts between 1st - 2nd especially when warmed up . I started to see these problems after my engine ceased on me due to the lower intake manifold gaskets leaked i figured it out after it ceased and started opening up the engine and found most of the water in cyl 2. to startup the engine I watched a youtube video where the guy sprays wd 40 into the cylinders and cranks the engine by hand and it worked for me but i didnt bore out or replace any piston rings currently i dont have any codes but my scanner does show a slight percent of cyl 2 misfire. it does seem the shudder gets a little better when i use thicker oil instead of 5w20. thinking the transmission was bad i added the lucas transmission fix into the transmission i dont have any shuddering or hard shifts now but it seems i dont have enough power when acceleration i was still in doubt that its the transmission or the TC, i also was in doubt that i shorted the tcc solenoid for some reason as my brake light switch wire had a loose connnection as i read a post saying that the brake switch has to do something with the tcc solenoid, but that doesnt seem the case now after watching your video now i think i will have to start digging into the engine check the cyl pressure etc.. but still i would ask you to recommend me where to start engine? or transmission? thanks
2013 explorer (no turbo) change: spark plug, coils, purge valve, MASS sensor, air filter, pcv, clean throttle body(No Codes) and still jerks around 40mph when you get 2000 Rpm.. Dealership say it has misfire... Still not fix.
I replaced the spark plug, plug wires, ignition coil, and injectors to find out my pistons were shot on my 2008 Chevy Tahoe 160k Miles. All this while showing cylinder misfire on cylinder #1
Eric Hansen did it feel like it was slipping while at half throttle or so? my trucks fine when WOT or pussy footing it, but when i give it more gas but not quite enough to downshift it feels like slips but.. its odd 2013 f150 here.
I got an 07 ford f150 4.6l and replaced the trans with a rebuilt from Monsterand some where between 1st into 2nd jerks a little but no codes truck rides fine from 2nd through 4th so I'm kinda unsure.
It was weird my car was doing the same thing after going up a hill. It would usually just blink check engine for 4 seconds then shut off my friend checked it out and opens up my 4 cylinder engine and found that a few coil packs were damaged and he advised that I get new spark plugs and coil packs. After I went home because I needed a new battery was 4 years old he advised I get a good battery from Costco bought it and bought a code reader. Once I installed the new battery I connected my code reader and it popped up codes 0300, 0302 and 0304 I read upon it and it said misfire or something and something to do with spark plugs or coils. Then after that I went to scan it one more time the codes were gone which was weird to me. But my gut feeling is telling me to buy new spark plugs and coil packs. I pray 🙏 to god this is the problem with my car and not with this one mechanic I know off the street that told me it’s my catalytic converter. Amen.
CFA Help misfire is no spark in the spark plug, cause = 1 )bad ignition coil. 2) bad spark plug wire. 3) damage spark plug or too old. 4) an injector in poor condition. Solution = tune up
If you scroll, you'll see his conclusion. It was a misfire on cyl 4. He swapped coils with 4 and 5 and then 5 misfired. The conclusion was bad ignition coils.
My 2004 Acura TL did exactly what he was showing in the video. Cars parked at home right now friend of mine looked at codes and it was random misfire p0300 and said all he cylinders were misfiring. Gonna do a comparison test hoping it’s something little
Is there a way i can talk to you on a phone and ask questions about my problem with my 2001 lincoln navigator I had a check engine light on for a misfire in cylinder 4 code was PO4 I GOT IT FIXED IT WENT AWAY THEN TWO WEEKS LATER CAME BACK .... SO AFTER THAT I CHANGED ALL THE CYLINDERS ON THE LEFT SIDE AFTER THAT THE LIGHT LEFT HAD NO MISFIRE NEVER HAD A SHAKING ISSUE JUST AT ONE POINT I FELT A SMALL JERK WHEN I WOULD PULL OFF ... SO 4 MONTHS LATER I START HAVING A OVER HEATING PROBLEM TOOK IT TO SHOP I NEEDED NEW WARTER PUMP GOT THAT DONE I WAS ROLLING NO ISSUES DRIVING EVERYWERE I NOTICE THAT WHEN I WOULD COAST IN APARTMENT COMPLEX OVER SPPED BUMPS ID FEEL A THUD SOUND FROM UNDERNEATH SUV I WAS TOLD IT WAS A HARD SHIFT BEACUSE O HAVE A LARGE TRANSMISSION SO NOW MONTHS LATER IM UNABLE TO DRIVE FOWARD BUT REVERSE WORKS WELL AND THATS WERE I AM TODAY I WAS TOLD I COULD HAVE A GASKET ISSUE AS WELL BECAUSE I DIDNT START UP SUV IN WEEK AND WHITE THICK SMOKE HAD STARTED TO COME OUT RHE TAIL PIPE THEN AFTER WARM UP IT WOULD THIN UP AND THEN G AWAY .. I HAVE NO MILKY NESS IN OIL AND I WAS TOLD IT COULD BE A TRANSMISSION SELINOED ISSUE AND IM JUST EXHAUSTED I CANT AFFORD A NEW AUTOMOBILE RIGHT NOW AND I HOPE I DONT GET OVER PRICED FOR WORK BECAUSE IT WIL BE HARD TO COME UP WITH A REASON MY LIFE IS SUCKING AT THIS POINT.
my 05 mustang has been running poorly lately kinda similar to this. i get the flashing check engine light usually when i try to drive the car hard as in push it to red line and make it shift under power but instead it won't shift until i let off and will usually flash the check engine light. first i was thinking bad transmission but after seeing this I'm thinking maybe it really is a misfire that is my main issue. the car doesn't usually misfire under normal driving but i went out after watching this and did notice if i put my hand on the intake manifold i can feel an irregularity in the idle like a small misfire is going on. going to check plugs and wires in the morning and compression test and go from there.
And four years later I can still say the same thing. You're the lifeguard of poor Ford owners who are treading the cesspool of modern automotive engineering
GREAT video! I have a 2009 Sable with 3.5 and I have similar issue...NO engine light. Hard shift (seemingly) when light throttle, vehicle will have a jerk to it then I will accelerate a little bit and goes away, but if I ease of throttle , vehicle will do same thing until I give more throttle or let up off throttle. Somedays no problem at all. What your think?
I wish I could figure out whats going on with my 03 crown vic. I keep getting misfires... truly all types of misfire codes. P0316 P0300 P0303 P0306 and i have changed all plugs to motorcraft and changed the ignition coils on 3 and 6 to Motorcraft direct from ford and still cannot figure out what in the heck is going on. Vehicle has 127000miles. I must be overlooking something 🤔
Just an opinion from a self-taught shade-tree mechanic: Have you checked the fuel injectors? Maybe they are clogged or clogging up? Possibly a fuel filter if your vehicle has one? Or, even possibly, the fuel pump itself, going erratic at times or going bad? Just a few things to look at. If you do have a fuel filter, try replacing it first.
Did you find a solution mines doing the same thing some guy I know knows a lot about cars and first thing he checked was the cylinders and he told me I had damaged coils that they were stuck and lubricated with some oil but he said as long as I don’t have puddles of oil that I’m good. Which there wasn’t. And he told me to get spark plugs I guess everyone’s situation is different. But we are headed in the same direction.
@Diego Lopez a bad fuel injector connector was my problem, i tried replacing everything else, and that was the last thing that was easy to try and wala! 😂😂😂😂.... fixed!
Forgive me for this novel guys. Looking for thoughts I'm not a mechanic but i think for a guy who has never replaced a alternator in his life but did successfully install my first one on a 2005 Hyundai Santa without help or experience that I have some potential. it's amazing the abilities one can summon from nowhere to help a beautiful woman lol. Ok back to the question. So what you are describing in this video is the same exact issue I have been having with my 2002 Chevy monte Carlo. This issue started almost two years ago car now has 187,000 miles on it. I thought it was the trans at first but the car ran so well that I couldn't believe it. I took it to a trusted mechanic who kept the car for weeks just to check it and I noticed when I would drive by the shop for work the car hadn't been moved. One day while driving by I saw them pull it in and within 15 minutes called and said it was my trans and was going to cost a lot obviously and asked if I wanted them to replace it. Part of me thought well they know cars probably well enough to,know right away but I felt that they didn't really spend any time really inspecting it and since the car had been living with issue for almost a year and lasted through the winter into summer and never got worse I felt it was not the trans so I told them no I would pick it up. Three days later after being in business for 25 years they shut down. So I drove my car this way into another bad winter and into the next summer when I decided to take it to the Chevy dealer in hopes to get a "professionals opinion". A mechanic jumped in the car with me and he drove my car. At first when I explained to him,my problem he had said he thought it was my trans also but then when he drove it he seemed perplexed and said it was hard for him to believe that it was the trans because the car drove and shifted so well other then it getting hung up a little a 2000rpm and just about everything described in this video. They kept the car did some things and well after $1000 I got the car back and it was all better it was as quiet sounding and ran as good as the day I bought it. That was last summer so by mid winter i noticed it was going back to the way it was but even worse the violent jerking you described was worse and the misfire had gotten worse. So I have started looking into it my self and trying to fix it. After learning that the problem could be caused by the spark plugs i thought to myself after all this time paying money to have it worked on I,don't ever recall ever once paying for spark plugs. I checked them and learned that at 188,000 miles they never once had been replaced so i replaced them my self two days ago plugs and wires. So here where I'm at. Before the spark plug replacement The car was doing everything you described exactly but it was struggling at 2000rpm after replacing the spark plugs and wires I can tell the improvement it no longer struggles at 2000rpm and is smoother. However its is now struggling at 4000rpm not nearly as bad its a very slight misfire that gets past it quickly but I'm still getting the jerk you describe that hasn't changed when down shifting that part has stayed pretty much the same but overall it has improved none the less. When i come to a stop at a red lite I notice the jerk the most when down shifting to a stop it never does this everyday some days it doesn't do it at all but on days it does its consistent the whole day. I thought it might be a coil but if it was then why did the misfire change slightly to 4000rpm and now works perfectly fine at 2000rpm where I originally had the problem at
Mine had the same symptoms , but...It also throws a P07a5 code to stating its a “Transmission Friction Element “B” Stuck on” Its at Ford today getting looked at. I will post my results after it’s repaired to help other decide on future Ford Purchases. Note: I was given a rental, a 2017 Ford Focus at 45K miles similar to my 2015 Focus at 55K but the rental drives awesome and we all know rentals get treated badly. Stay tuned for Five Star Fords diagnosis’s.....,
I couldn't find the misfire problem for 2 years on my explorer. It turned out that under the ignition coil there is a plate that grounds itself to the frame. I wire brushed all the rust, and car ran like brand new again! A zero dollar fix, that cost me a few thousand over time blowing my rear end or rear end seals from jolting.
hey i got a question for you! i have a 2015 ford escape 2.0 EcoBoost with 122k. recently when i first start my car and i usually let it idle for about 3 minutes and i put it in drive and the car jolts a little bit! if i put it in reverse or neutral its all smooth! once the car warms up everything is smooth like coming out of a store start the car put it in drive and its smooth only when i first start my car, my transmission was rebuilt at 53k and now has 122k on it, last week i did do a transmission drain and fill on it and the transmission fluid was dirty and black! but it did have a little red color to it! and the transmission fluid didnt smell burnt. it seemed to fix the problem start the car in the morning put it in drive all smooth! i think the problem is coming back when i put the car in drive its very slight jerk, do you think i should do another drain and fill on the transmission to get more of the dirty fluid out? any advice? oh yeah no check engine light on.
Hey man, sometimes after driving for a little while 20mins or so when i put my foot on the acclerator, the exhaust sounds louder and discontinuous ( sounds like small explosions after each other). This sound goes straight away when I restart the engine strangely! could this be due to engine misfire or somethung else? But as i said it doesn't always come on and goes away when i restart the engine! any ideas or suggestion is much appreciated ps i dont get any dashboard lights
I've got a 2010 FX Ford F-150 it's lifted with an exhaust, and it has a cylinder 8 slight misfire, I don't know how accurate that is because it runs fine, idles fine, sounds fine. I'm so confused.
Did you ever figure it out? My 2011 Towncar 4.6 had an engine coolant leak from the intake manifold and that would go right into the #8 spark plug well.
To anybody out there: I daily drive a 2000 F150 4x4 (5.4) and experience a harsh lurch the SECOND I take my foot off of the petal when I'm going above 65mph. I just replaced my intake manifold seal and confirmed that the intake was NOT cracked/deformed in any way. I am being told that it could be my driveshafts, MAF sensor, vaccum leak, bad coil, bad injector, or bad spark splug. ANY ideas? I used MAF cleaner, I checked my spark plugs, cleaned all of my injectors, and still experience the issue.
@@erickfigz2418 Sold it last year after purchasing a newer EcoBoost. I swapped the plugs, coils, and injectors which solved the issues before I ended up selling it
This sounds similar to my car problems. I have a 2014 Dodge Dart, I was on the interstate when I could feel a loss of power. I was doing about 65-70 and my speed was dropping, slowly. I had my radio going so I turned it down and I could hear the engine revving and trying to upshift. I’ve known my car to do some weird things. My buddy was in the car with me and I told him “eventually it’s going to go into limp mode where it won’t let me drive past 10mph.” So I was lucky enough to get it home. It was tricky because after every green light It would take awhile to get up to speed, it would maintain speed well but I could tell it was having a hard time shifting. I would let off the gas to try and let it shift the way it needed to. I milked it the whole way Home. I have not had a tune up and my car has a 165,000 on it. Not sure if it’s a tune up issue or something more serious.
I have a strange bucking when going from a stop if i sort of floor it the whole truck bucks like a hard shift, but if i go slow i dont really notice it, afraid it could be the trans but not sure..
Aloha, love your channel and approach to difficult, hard to fix issues on Ford's. I have a1990 Econoline with a hard miss and shuddering. The van sits 6 months out of the year. recently I replaced the distributor, plugs, wires, coil. What are the odds that the ecu has leaking capacitors contributing to this?. Is this more difficult to diagnose on an OBD1 system. ? any input would be appreciated.
My company has a bunch of f150 5.0 trucks 2019-2022 and ive been in 3 now that when you accelerate from the light consistently randomly it pops and backfires in the intake. Drops power like the timing is messed up. Just got mine back from ford replaced cam phasers and still have the problem. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated.
My 09 Taurus does this but I don’t have a check engine light on. I think my problem is the cheap ignition coils I bought...it drives perfectly fine it just does that stupid rumble every now and then
I have a 2003 Toyota solara. When I drive and am coasting my RPM’s will fluctuate and it feels like my transmission is downshifting hard. Literally feels like a jump. Do you think this could be the cause? Thanks.
Ex-muslim Atheist Your transmission is probably going out or already bad. I had a 2003 Accord V6 and had the same issue. Both cars use the same engine and transmission.
Dang I knew it was about time to change my spark plugs but I thought that shuddering in my 2010 4.6 f150 was a transmission issue. I'll change them in the next few days and see if that did the trick
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle. The symptom is that it shudders while driving and at times a it shuts off while driving, but not all the time. I noticed that the issue occurs when i filled the tank. Once it drops to half a tank it drives great. I have replaced (Throttled body, EGR, Computer, 1 coli for miss fire on cylinder 3, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump) and still have the same symptom. On a Ford blog page. The Ford tech says that it is the Throddle body but still have the problem. Any idea on what it might be? I did get a new AC system for the car. It seemed that once i got a whole new AC system. This problem occurred after 2 month's after the AC system was installed.
Very nice video! Thank you wizard. I have a question, I have a 92 Mercury Topaz 3.0, when I first start the car it starts ok and idles "fine" for 20 seconds, then starts misfiring, (If I drive it at that moment it feels heavy), if I'm in park and give it gas it helps it to stabilize but when releasing the pedal it goes back to misfiring. After it warms up the misfire goes away 89%, it feels better and has more power. The misfires aren't constant, sometimes when I'm in a stop sign car almost wants to stall for a sec, however, it's not that common. I came into conclusion it's a spark issue since fuel pressure is perfect even when it misfires, all injectors are clicking also. What could the issue be? It's OBD1 I can't use my scanner to diagnose it better and it has no codes related to that on the self-test (KOEO and KOER). When clear flood cranking engine sounds even, so I assume it's not compression. OH BTW tailpipe smells awful, not like a rich condition, it's a different very strong smell and produces headaches; also I rebuilt the engine because it overheated but the problem was kind of there before. Please help!!! :(
@@farajalagory8027 hi! Actually I didn’t get to fix it yet. I moved away shortly after that comment and parked the car since, hope I can soon sort everything out again. What I do remember actually is diagnosing a couple of weeks before parking, is a bad bank 2 S1 O2 sensor. That sensor began to fail completely and not report right and was flooding that bank with fuel even in hot. That makes sense to be the culprit of those cold misfires because before it completely failed, for the first 20 seconds that was fine with no misfire I assume it was still in open loop so the O2s don’t read. After those 20 seconds the sensors start reading and as that sensor was in the verge of dying it threw the correct mixture away until it got hot enough.
I have a 2008 F150 4.2 L V6 61000 miles w/ knock on hills; Can I use Premium fuel. The manual says never to use premium if any problem go to another brand. I use quality fuel usually BP. Will using premium fuel do any damages?????
I have a 2011 f350 6.7l. I need to replace the solenoids in the tranny and was wondering if you could let me know the best way to replace them. Seen the video you replacing the tranny fluid and seen the solenoids and just wished you had a video on replacing them too.
i had same issue before, customer complaint tranny slipping and shifting hard , i did a quick mcgyver test which is load the engine and feel how it runs and soon enough both banks are lean which caused by crack intake tube
My wife 2007 Edge Sel awd 3.5L v6 suv has tow package & I think sport as well...(I think), Amy way just got Code P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. An the s7v does jerk at times so I am wondering if what you speaking upon here applies to what I been experiencing exactly as you described. Yes I got flashing check Engine light that it flashes just as you showed in the video.... what was the fix for everything you talked about here ?
I recently bought a 04 freestar and it has been trouble since day one the only code that comes up is the coil pack so 3 coil packs and new plugs and wires later it still idles rough bogs down and has no power I tried to go uphill in it the rpms were at 3000 and it was barely going 15mph I'm at a loss I just don't what else it could be
fordtechmakuloco. my 2010 ford fusion is doing amost the same hesitating on my rmps comes and goes away. checked the coil packs change spark plugs. checked my throttle nd throttle position sensor. im getting bad Mpg like 7.0 mpg. any idea.?
I get zero lights. Ive got the 4.0, 03 explorer. It has violent bang when going up a hill or on a pull? Ive had the drive line looked at. Full compression on all cylinders. No lights at all. We did new bearings and hubs and the transfer case seems good. Rear gears seems good no metal. Its got 169k miles. Ive had it at an independent shop with no success but have an appointment next week for at the Ford service. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have 2005 f250 with the 5.4 3 valve. I replaced all the coils. I pull a trailer with it (5500 lbs) and while accelerating at high rpms it hesitates and shudders a little or no power. I was thinking I may have a fuel issue or injector issue? 200,000 miles, Just turned over this weekend.
Авто/Мото
And four years later I can still say the same thing. You're the lifeguard of poor Ford owners who are treading the cesspool of modern automotive engineering .
Thanks so much!
Mark 2007 Lincoln navigator, 5.4L 3v
FordTechMakuloco:
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Thank you SO much for this video!
I was having a nearly IDENTICAL problem with my vehicle (Nissan Frontier). I had taken a long trip, and on the way home, my vehicle was doing the same exact thing, at the same speed range. I was agonizing over what might have been a nearly $6,000 repair/replacement for a transmission. Luckily, last night, I came across your video, so I watched the whole video. Today, I did use a scan tool, and, SURE ENOUGH, I found misfire events on one cylinder. I pulled the coil pack on that cylinder, and the coil pack assembly was broken. Since my vehicle is high mileage and 8 years old, I replaced all the coil pack assemblies. My vehicle runs great now!!! I spent $400 instead of potentially $6,000.
Again, THANK YOU!!!!
(I am going to share your video on RUclips, hoping it can help some other people, too)
I have frontier 2014 and now it is jerking terribly. Do u think it is the same problem you had? Thanks
@@jacobadams8073 ...It is possible. The best way to find out is a scan tool. Another very quick way is to pull each coil pack and physically check each one for damage/excessive wear. This would eliminate or possibly confirm the jerking.
One last thing: check the cleanliness of your throttle body assembly AND your MAF sensor.
Good luck, but best bet is a scan tool.
@@dlopester13 thanks Diego ima give it a try. Thanks again.
Someone told me it could be my catalytic converter. But I asked my friend to check it out and he told me I need knew coils and spark plugs and it’s crazy because my check engine light was blinking like the video and would shut off after four blinks. Then went home and left to buy a code reader and it had 3 misfire codes 0300 0302 and 0304. It’s just crazy how my friend knew what potentially could be my problem for power loss and thanks to this video I have hope 🙏
07 Explorer, 40mph in OD plus a light load created violent jerk. Independent wanted to pull trans, rebuild/diagnose for $3000. Took to dealership was told #5 needs COP and plug. A few more of your videos about the dreaded 3V plug and less than $500 later runs perfect. Thanks for all the great videos!
thank you so much for this video. this is exactly what my ford expedition is experiencing. this saturday my mechanic will be changing the spark plugs and coils
05 Ford F350 5.4 3v Truck was doing that and eventually was throwing code for cylinder 5 and 6 misfire p0300 p0305 p0306
Load on my scanner at idle was at 39% timing was reading from 15 to 45 rough idle and rough start up . Was shaking like crazy. Under load flashing light and goes away when you let go.
All plugs and coils checked out good no water or anything else in the holes. Left side cover off and it turned out to be #6 exhaust valve spring was broken.
Well while in there already did complete timing job and all following your instructions.
Couldn't have done this without you.
Your work is much appreciated.
Thank you
A lot of people don't know that the Alternator can also cause a car to jerk....I had this experience before.....what happens is, your car is losing power and if the alternator is bad or has bad voltage being sent between the battery and distributor cap, the power won't get sent properly to those other parts like the spark plugs which would misfire.
I've been experiencing jerks for about 8mo now, when accelerating between 25-35mph, and also while maintaining a speed of about 45mph.
No lights on the dash, and no codes thrown... until yesterday.
Check engine light came on, then battery light.
Got the battery tested, and they said my voltage regulator is faulty.
I've been wondering all day if the two are related?
@@muhammod95i wonder if thats why my car is doing it. my key fob just started being way more faulty too
Did the jerking go away after replacing the regulator?
I had that problem with my 93 mark VIII. I changed the alternator and it went away.
Dodge nitro 2008, exact same symptoms and few garages tried to rip me off trying to convince me it is a transmission problem.. However, rpm not fluctuating, no engine lights triggering.. Feels like car wants to shift down when I slightly press gas pedal while climbing slope.. Replaced all spark plugs and all problem has gone.. Thanks for your graphic demonstration of this problem. God bless you.
this was the video that i used to repair my issue same problem no mechanic was able to find the issue until i had an friend that had an ford IDS program and showed him this video and agree that cylinder 5 was causing the misfire .replaced the coils on all and spark plugs i have used pulse star. PROBLEM FIXED . THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Thanks very much.. I thought it was my transmission because I had gotten new engine mounts and I sometimes would feel that hard jerk on the engine... and the only codes that came on were fuel injection codes ....
The more you know
I have a ford Ranger with a cylinder 4 misfire code and a shake and occasional jerk. I replaced the plug wire and coil pack. It seems to run better with no misses so far, but the dead miss is so intermittent it is hard to tell if that is the fix. Thanks for the video!
Says comment was 5 years ago , oops, did you feel the harsh shifts on up shifts too? my ford ranger is throwing the 4th cylinder missfire code too..
Let us know
Thank you very much...you save me a transmission job...had this same misfire since Christmas..jerking and slamming. And it was a dead mis...one coil.was totally dead..change all 4
Ford Ranger 2014 model 2.2l 4x2 (manual tranny, turbo).
The problem is, when at 2nd gear or 3rd gear and accelerating from a running stage or climbing it's power is so weak, if rpm is below 1500 it doesn't have power on it, it just slowly picking up and picking up power even if it's already floored. It's so weak it feels like stalling if you have not enough propulsion goin up or if the car you are following suddenly drops speed then you have to change to the lower gears immediately or press clutch then rev it or else you will stall. But then, when rpm finally gets past 2k, it will suddenly picks up power like a a multiple vtec-like power just kicks in. The power delivery is not smooth. Slow acceleration then only picks up power at certain rpm.
I replaced all filters already (Fuel filter, Engine Air intake filter) I also changed oil on engine, transmission and even the rear axles with all-AMSOIL fluids. I also asked a friend to clean the EGR. I also replaced the turbo hose in the top. I also added an TECHRON Diesel additive in my last fuel fill to clean injector and fuel lines. Yes I feel a little bit of improvement after all of these cleaning and stuff, but the uneven power delivery and poor low rpm power is still there, it's still bothering me.
It's not like that before, I tried two trucks of the same model and specs from a group and they does not act like they were smooth and torqy. It's not normal.
What should I check? Shall I clean the exhaust? Catalytic, does it have catalytic or something? At higher speeds no problem, it's a fast truck when it's already at speed.
One thing I am noticing is when accelerating the sound also has a tractor-like sound effect if it's accelerating and the tractor sound effect goes away when it gets to speed already. But pressing gas and revving when parked does not create that sound. the sound only appears when accelerating.
shifting is also not smooth, there is a jerk when shifting to other gears.. harsher on downshift. No matter how good rev match I do, it still not smooth transition of gears. No check engines in the Ford Ranger.
Hi Makuloco I just got me a project 06 F-150 5.4 Triton V8. 77k miles and it misfires under load. The repair is straight forward (new spark plugs and ignition coils). If I want to advance my auto repair skills I need a scanner to learn how to diagnose like you did in this video. I was recommended the Autel MaxiAp200 and FORScan, but I rather get a recommendation from an actual Ford mechanic that has extensive knowlegde on the Triton V8. Thanks in advance!
I've been driving with bad ignition coils, and have had the symptoms you describe at the start. But those are actual downshifts, due to the lack of power in the engine.
me to
2007 Lincoln MKZ here ..Same here
I know the feeling. Only mine does that only at idle, like at a stop light with the brakes on. Weird stumble jerk random.
Mine does same thing not when driving only at idle like at lights and it only happens sometimes
It's exactly what my Altima was doing. I thought it was a trans issue. The symptoms were exact. Turns out my spark plugs were extremely worn. Listen to him. He's on point.
How many miles buddy?
I had a misfire under load...pulled all of my coil packs and wires...found all of them were corroded and cleaned them all up / lubricated springs, checked boots. The coil packs had over 200,000 miles on them. - Problem solved. No check engine ever flashed. In the past, I did have a coil go out and the check engine light came on right away. This was different. I have a 2008 F 150 5.4 / 3...this truck has been bullet proof. Keep the oil changed and the radiator filled with fresh, clean fluid and you're good.
2009 ranger same harsh miss, only in overdrive going up a hill when the trans should downshift. Tested everything. This happened 1 year after changing spark plugs with NGK. Replace NGK with Motocraft, same issue. Finally replaced plug wires and problem solved, and I should have done this before changing the NGK spark plugs. NEVER had an issue with NGK on any vehicle or equipment I have used NGK spark plugs on. Even Ford with no codes couldn't find it, except that I should have the trans fluid changed. At $250 less tax I am glad I did my own testing. Hard miss as Brian has said in another video is usually seconday ignition. He was bang on with that.
07 FX2 doing the same. $119 for the Diagnostic at Ford. Love your channel. Keep up the great work.
Perfectly explained the issue I had with my 3.5 mkx. Took two Ford dealers to diagnose. Thankfully the second dealership had a thoughtful tech who took my vehicle home and drove it for awhile with the scanner on it and finally diagnosed it. Now I recognize it happening again. This time is a full on tune up.
thanks for this video. My problem is the same, but i have a 5.4l and I believe it was never serviced while owned prior to me... it is sad how people take advantage of others.
Same last owner looked like he didn't do no service to it
Had this happen on my mom's '99 Mustang GT 4.6L 2v/auto trans. Felt like trans stutter between 3rd and 4th (40~45mph) during light acceleration. Checked trans fluid;ok. Had her take it to our her local Ford dealership and they told her it was a bad coil on cyl #1. Didn't make any sense to me since it only occurred as stated. In my way of thinking I figured I should have also felt it during WOT but didn't. But I went ahead and temporarily swapped in a spare known good coil from my '06 GT 4.6L GT (swapped the coil boots too). Noticed that there was dried out dielectric grease in the original boot and tip of coil spring and cleaned them up. Test drove it and no stuttering. Hmmm. Swapped the coils back just to be sure. Again no stuttering. Must have been poor contact between the tip of the spark plug and the coil tip (solid tip on spring). Though the tech was correct in diagnosing a misfire he was quick to say it was a failed coil which they wanted to charge $150 to replace.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
My truck is Nissan pathfinder 2001 2WD has exact problem for months,i thought that is transmission problem,after watched your video last night i run to auto parts next day and get new set of sparkplug Bosch.wow,power gain and down shift seem like is gone,a very very slightly some time,now i just need clean MAP sensor and re-adjust throttle position sensor too.Thank you again.
exactly its happening here. thanks mate. i was thinking its transmission.
What was the problem how it got fixed
For the past year I thought that this was a transmission. I’ve been saving to put in a new trans. Just to find out if was a misfire
Bi-directional scan tools are pretty cheap these days. Mine has paid for itself many times over. If you want to keep your vehicle for long after it’s paid off, buy a Bi-directional scan tool. Even the Chinese ones are really good and typically come with a few years of free updates.
2007 5.4 F150 I just had this exact thing happen to me two weeks ago before I saw this video. Thought my transmission was going out. Next day it threw a code, misfire on cylinder 7. Changed the plug and 1,000 miles later all seems to be well.
Did you only the spark plug? Or you also changed the coil as well?
I own a Ford Fusion 2015 SE 2.0 ECOBOOST engine that’s FWD. My car has done 54K KMS and since 20K KMS I’ve been having issues with my transmission and facing the following concerns
1. At lowers gears, the shifts are slightly delayed, harsh and lurches the car forward if the gear shifts at lower acceleration and speeds especially during traffic situations
2. When I bring the car to a complete stop, the car produces a knocking sound and lurches forward at the last reverse gear shift
3. I feel the 3rd reverse gear shift to be harder and harsh compared to others
4. When I accelerate from zero, there is a knocking sound as well.
I’ve been complaining about this to Ford since 20K KMS and they have been coming back stating this is normal in this car, but I don’t think so as this is not normal characteristic of any car.
At 30K KMS I went ahead and escalated the issue to the service manager who then observed this characteristic of the car and then decided to observe keeping the car for like 10 days and decided to change some solenoids along with some drive cycle was done with some software reprogramming. This did help to reduce the issue but I feel now it has come back making it really irritating to drive the car and I’m not satisfied
I’ve gone back to the service manager and asked to give me a test drive on the same model so that I can confirm if this is a normal characteristic of this car. Which they said they will take a week and get back to me.
do you feel this is an issue with my transmission? Have you come across such situations with cars, and what would you do ?
Let me know ...
Hey. Did you find a fix for that? I'm having same issues with my Ford Mustang.
Brian, Dude, you what makes the day after New Years Rock? Yup you got it... me re-watching your videos! Always Rocking!! Thx for all you do.
I have a 2006 Ford F150 that is doing exactly this ! My truck is in shop right now having all plugs replaced and it's 1000$ dollars !
I really hope I'm not wasting my money when its the coils ,
But then again they are original plugs from 2006 and truck has 166000 km
2009 Flex. I changed the plugs and coil packs 5 months ago and everything was running great. Until now. It feels like 2 cylinders are cutting out. What could cause them to go bad so quickly?
Plugs backing out?
I want to tell you thank you so much for this video it went out an back to Ford dealership.First trip did reflash ,on second trip it was throwing codes P0717 an U0100. .. they changed both sensors out picked vehicle up thinking its fixed.No still missing feeling like transmission slipping. .....hooked up to scanner no codes.Had them hook computer an drive it different story misfire on coil #1 an #4 .......so going to fix end of this week an replace all plugs. FORD FLEX 2009 lets hope this does it!!!!;)
I recently took my car to the shop with a misfire on #5 in a Cadillac DeVille DTS. Now they have took the ground wire routed to the #4 & 5. Now transmission switching horrible. I believe they burned out the ground wire.
That is exactly what is happening in my honda. Finally figured it out. Thanks from my heart.
What fixed it? Mine is doing same thing
This is what is happening on my 04 5.4L Triton Expidition. Just had 3000 dollars worth of work done. Mostly front suspension stuff but also Spark plug, boots, coils, everything were replaced. Had the car back for a bout a week or so and im getting this hesitation and misfire on acceleration. Took it back to shop today. Just dropped it off. Under warranty. Hopefully it's within the spark plugs. I cant dish out anymore money for this truck. I do love the truck tho.
I have a 2005 Ford Escape doing the same thing once I hit over 45-50mph. I’ll change 4,5,6 spark plug and coil boots. Can’t do 1,2,3 because there under the manifold. Hopefully one of them solves the problem.... thanks for the info
Did that fix the problem ?
Hard shift 1-2...changed shift accumulator, MAF sensor, VSS, transmission fluid and no luck. Havent changed TPS because i feel you have to recalibrate it. Ive also searched around and read spark plugs/wires cause mis-fire which is causing the hard shift 1-2.
This is exactly what my Mercury Mariner does and it has been to 2 Ford dealerships and several independent mechanics that can't seem to diagnose it. It is pretty much a new car with everything they have replaced on it (that hasn't helped).
Good info. My 08 F-150 5.4 is doing this and I first thought it was trans.. It almost never fails, not through all rpms and gears but always at around 1200 RPM between 40-50 mph with any pull on the engine It starts jerking hard repeatedly. If I stab the gas and it pulls harder It still noticeably does it and the check light starts flashing just as it does here. Now to see if I can afford to have it checked out..
my ‘93 mark viii 4.6 dohc feels like it’s got a trans problem at around 38-40mph...feels like torque converter slipping...jerks when i let off the gas. i get a check engine light occasionally too. now i wonder if its a misfire. i’ve got new plugs and wires...maybe i’ll replace my two coil packs and see what happens!
Same here on my 2000 F150. NOBODY seems to be addressing this issue. I've been told the transmission, torque converter, u-joints, coil packs, and now the spark plugs... after weeks and weeks of independent research, I have found that I have coolant leaking into my spark plug wells and have realized that this is a VERY common issue with the TRITON 4.6, 5.4, and 6.3 engines due to a faulty air intake design.
I now need to order myself a quality intake system ($120-$400) and possibly even inspect my catalytic converter after driving around with this occasional issue for months now and no engine light. I am ranting, but am also mindlessly typing during this informative video.
Part of this issue could be a faulty u-joint if the issue is just slight jolting and start and stopping with a slightly eratic humm while driving, but in my case - it is definitely a misfire.
UPDATE: engine light came on, and I pulled into O'Reillys and had a P0300 code, which is multiple random misfires... time to change my plugs and diagnose the issue... I am by no means q professional and am just a mechanically inclined college kid who loves my truck more than I probably should.
140k miles, 2013 3.5 N/A. This happened to me a year ago. I replaced the front 3 coils and plugs (which did fix symptoms) I was unable to replace the 3 close to fire wall because i lacked proper tools and confidence in my skill level. Today im replacing those by a certified ford mechanic LOL..
this is happening to my 2015 taurus sho with 120k miles i’m hoping it’s just the spark plugs and coil packs
I have a 98 ford ranger 4.0 that stutters misfires and hesitating under low rpm load or right after up shifts and low power and bad fuel economy what could it be ?
Same, 4.0 sohc 2006.
Done Plugs, leads, fuel filter etc etc and is manual
2008 Taurus limited same symptoms but it was the trans oil. 203k no trans oil changes. Needs trans oil change every 60k . Changed the trans oil and runs good now. No codes either.
I have something that seems similar to this. I have a 2006 Pontiac grand prix that occasionally dies immediately after its started. It's also sometimes pretty rough to start. I've also noticed this "jerking" that he referred to in the video, only it happens when my car is upshifting. I'm worried it may be the transmission but after watching this I'm hoping its not
I have a 2005 grand prix with a weird shifting issue. It revs a few times rather than shift into 2nd and 3rd then eventually shifts 4th. Then it goes into this weird mode where the engine noise changes and it makes a surging noise from 1st into 2nd gear and shifts hard then shifts hard and weird in 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't rev in this "mode" it actually shifts rather than rev but shifts hard and weird every gear. When I turn off car and turn it on after 30 seconds this mode goes away. Only right when i drive the car for the 1st time for the day it shifts normal for a couple min. Does everybody know what this is? There is no check engine light on either.
same car !!
i need to know too.
Spark plugs
Am seeing this video in 2024 am so happy I had to subscribe 🎉
YO! This is one of the best pieces of information on this so far!
I'm a tech also and love you videos keep them coming
Will do!
@@FordTechMakuloco what's the name of that software u used to diagnostic the misfire????
@@FordTechMakulocoI have a 13 eco boost. That misfire when hard acceleration changed plug and coils. Same issue. Misfire changes all over
Dude I freakin love you. Thank you so much for all this info. You are most definitely the man. 👊🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have cylinder 4 & 2 misfire with map sensor code and shuddering at 40 m.p.h. in 3rd or overdrive. In 2nd it will misfire but wont shudder. What do u think? Thanks for advice. Its a 2005 ford escape with 3.0. Engine light is on.
Hi thanks for you video it stopped me from removing my transmission which i was about to start removing in an hour my 99 windstar started to shudder when light acceleration especially on hills or loaded van with the ac on and hard up/down shifts between 1st - 2nd especially when warmed up . I started to see these problems after my engine ceased on me due to the lower intake manifold gaskets leaked i figured it out after it ceased and started opening up the engine and found most of the water in cyl 2. to startup the engine I watched a youtube video where the guy sprays wd 40 into the cylinders and cranks the engine by hand and it worked for me but i didnt bore out or replace any piston rings currently i dont have any codes but my scanner does show a slight percent of cyl 2 misfire. it does seem the shudder gets a little better when i use thicker oil instead of 5w20. thinking the transmission was bad i added the lucas transmission fix into the transmission i dont have any shuddering or hard shifts now but it seems i dont have enough power when acceleration i was still in doubt that its the transmission or the TC, i also was in doubt that i shorted the tcc solenoid for some reason as my brake light switch wire had a loose connnection as i read a post saying that the brake switch has to do something with the tcc solenoid, but that doesnt seem the case now after watching your video now i think i will have to start digging into the engine check the cyl pressure etc.. but still i would ask you to recommend me where to start engine? or transmission? thanks
My 2003 ford focus is sounding like a hell cat when i accelerate past 20mph dont know whats wrong any help please
2013 explorer (no turbo) change: spark plug, coils, purge valve, MASS sensor, air filter, pcv, clean throttle body(No Codes) and still jerks around 40mph when you get 2000 Rpm.. Dealership say it has misfire... Still not fix.
I replaced the spark plug, plug wires, ignition coil, and injectors to find out my pistons were shot on my 2008 Chevy Tahoe 160k Miles. All this while showing cylinder misfire on cylinder #1
What were the symptoms
I have and 04 f150 it does the same thing wid did u do to fix the problem ?
Right on. Thought I had a torque converter issue. Turned out to just be an old truck haha. Needed new engine coils and all that stuff
Eric Hansen did it feel like it was slipping while at half throttle or so? my trucks fine when WOT or pussy footing it, but when i give it more gas but not quite enough to downshift it feels like slips but.. its odd 2013 f150 here.
I got an 07 ford f150 4.6l and replaced the trans with a rebuilt from Monsterand some where between 1st into 2nd jerks a little but no codes truck rides fine from 2nd through 4th so I'm kinda unsure.
It was weird my car was doing the same thing after going up a hill. It would usually just blink check engine for 4 seconds then shut off my friend checked it out and opens up my 4 cylinder engine and found that a few coil packs were damaged and he advised that I get new spark plugs and coil packs. After I went home because I needed a new battery was 4 years old he advised I get a good battery from Costco bought it and bought a code reader. Once I installed the new battery I connected my code reader and it popped up codes 0300, 0302 and 0304 I read upon it and it said misfire or something and something to do with spark plugs or coils. Then after that I went to scan it one more time the codes were gone which was weird to me. But my gut feeling is telling me to buy new spark plugs and coil packs. I pray 🙏 to god this is the problem with my car and not with this one mechanic I know off the street that told me it’s my catalytic converter. Amen.
I got a Chevy 94 truck 1500 service engine soon light is on its vibrating I think it might be miss firing
What was the conclusion for why this vehicle was misfiring?
Did you find the fix???? Im having the same issue with a BMW tho..?
CFA Help misfire is no spark in the spark plug, cause = 1 )bad ignition coil. 2) bad spark plug wire. 3) damage spark plug or too old. 4) an injector in poor condition. Solution = tune up
.
Change your ignition coils
If you scroll, you'll see his conclusion. It was a misfire on cyl 4. He swapped coils with 4 and 5 and then 5 misfired. The conclusion was bad ignition coils.
My 2004 Acura TL did exactly what he was showing in the video. Cars parked at home right now friend of mine looked at codes and it was random misfire p0300 and said all he cylinders were misfiring. Gonna do a comparison test hoping it’s something little
Is there a way i can talk to you on a phone and ask questions about my problem with my 2001 lincoln navigator I had a check engine light on for a misfire in cylinder 4 code was PO4 I GOT IT FIXED IT WENT AWAY THEN TWO WEEKS LATER CAME BACK .... SO AFTER THAT I CHANGED ALL THE CYLINDERS ON THE LEFT SIDE AFTER THAT THE LIGHT LEFT HAD NO MISFIRE NEVER HAD A SHAKING ISSUE JUST AT ONE POINT I FELT A SMALL JERK WHEN I WOULD PULL OFF ... SO 4 MONTHS LATER I START HAVING A OVER HEATING PROBLEM TOOK IT TO SHOP I NEEDED NEW WARTER PUMP GOT THAT DONE I WAS ROLLING NO ISSUES DRIVING EVERYWERE I NOTICE THAT WHEN I WOULD COAST IN APARTMENT COMPLEX OVER SPPED BUMPS ID FEEL A THUD SOUND FROM UNDERNEATH SUV I WAS TOLD IT WAS A HARD SHIFT BEACUSE O HAVE A LARGE TRANSMISSION SO NOW MONTHS LATER IM UNABLE TO DRIVE FOWARD BUT REVERSE WORKS WELL AND THATS WERE I AM TODAY I WAS TOLD I COULD HAVE A GASKET ISSUE AS WELL BECAUSE I DIDNT START UP SUV IN WEEK AND WHITE THICK SMOKE HAD STARTED TO COME OUT RHE TAIL PIPE THEN AFTER WARM UP IT WOULD THIN UP AND THEN G AWAY .. I HAVE NO MILKY NESS IN OIL AND I WAS TOLD IT COULD BE A TRANSMISSION SELINOED ISSUE AND IM JUST EXHAUSTED I CANT AFFORD A NEW AUTOMOBILE RIGHT NOW AND I HOPE I DONT GET OVER PRICED FOR WORK BECAUSE IT WIL BE HARD TO COME UP WITH A REASON MY LIFE IS SUCKING AT THIS POINT.
Do u have a video on the diagnosis ..my 5.4 3v is doing the exact same thing I suspect a fuel injector do you have a video on the repair
my 05 mustang has been running poorly lately kinda similar to this. i get the flashing check engine light usually when i try to drive the car hard as in push it to red line and make it shift under power but instead it won't shift until i let off and will usually flash the check engine light. first i was thinking bad transmission but after seeing this I'm thinking maybe it really is a misfire that is my main issue. the car doesn't usually misfire under normal driving but i went out after watching this and did notice if i put my hand on the intake manifold i can feel an irregularity in the idle like a small misfire is going on. going to check plugs and wires in the morning and compression test and go from there.
Hey man. Thank you for uploading your videos. They are very helpful! You are awesome! Thx again!
And four years later I can still say the same thing. You're the lifeguard of poor Ford owners who are treading the cesspool of modern automotive engineering
Mine has the same issue. I just got a melling oil pump on it and new phasers and now it has a cylinder number 4 misfire
My 79 ranchero does this, but more so when I come to a full stop or am slowing down
Hook it up to obd reader .... But I think it's just your camshaft choice lol
a bad coil can do this too.. had enough experience with COILS going in a toyota corolla.
I would assume it's a coil doing it in this case too.
GREAT video! I have a 2009 Sable with 3.5 and I have similar issue...NO engine light. Hard shift (seemingly) when light throttle, vehicle will have a jerk to it then I will accelerate a little bit and goes away, but if I ease of throttle , vehicle will do same thing until I give more throttle or let up off throttle. Somedays no problem at all.
What your think?
Am having the same problem
I wish I could figure out whats going on with my 03 crown vic. I keep getting misfires... truly all types of misfire codes. P0316 P0300 P0303 P0306 and i have changed all plugs to motorcraft and changed the ignition coils on 3 and 6 to Motorcraft direct from ford and still cannot figure out what in the heck is going on. Vehicle has 127000miles. I must be overlooking something 🤔
Just an opinion from a self-taught shade-tree mechanic:
Have you checked the fuel injectors? Maybe they are clogged or clogging up? Possibly a fuel filter if your vehicle has one? Or, even possibly, the fuel pump itself, going erratic at times or going bad?
Just a few things to look at.
If you do have a fuel filter, try replacing it first.
Did you find a solution mines doing the same thing some guy I know knows a lot about cars and first thing he checked was the cylinders and he told me I had damaged coils that they were stuck and lubricated with some oil but he said as long as I don’t have puddles of oil that I’m good. Which there wasn’t. And he told me to get spark plugs I guess everyone’s situation is different. But we are headed in the same direction.
Spark plug gap
Things that can cause a miss are coils plugs injectors compression and of course my favorite ecm anomalies. Happy hunting
@Diego Lopez a bad fuel injector connector was my problem, i tried replacing everything else, and that was the last thing that was easy to try and wala! 😂😂😂😂.... fixed!
Forgive me for this novel guys. Looking for thoughts I'm not a mechanic but i think for a guy who has never replaced a alternator in his life but did successfully install my first one on a 2005 Hyundai Santa without help or experience that I have some potential. it's amazing the abilities one can summon from nowhere to help a beautiful woman lol. Ok back to the question. So what you are describing in this video is the same exact issue I have been having with my 2002 Chevy monte Carlo. This issue started almost two years ago car now has 187,000 miles on it. I thought it was the trans at first but the car ran so well that I couldn't believe it. I took it to a trusted mechanic who kept the car for weeks just to check it and I noticed when I would drive by the shop for work the car hadn't been moved. One day while driving by I saw them pull it in and within 15 minutes called and said it was my trans and was going to cost a lot obviously and asked if I wanted them to replace it. Part of me thought well they know cars probably well enough to,know right away but I felt that they didn't really spend any time really inspecting it and since the car had been living with issue for almost a year and lasted through the winter into summer and never got worse I felt it was not the trans so I told them no I would pick it up. Three days later after being in business for 25 years they shut down. So I drove my car this way into another bad winter and into the next summer when I decided to take it to the Chevy dealer in hopes to get a "professionals opinion". A mechanic jumped in the car with me and he drove my car. At first when I explained to him,my problem he had said he thought it was my trans also but then when he drove it he seemed perplexed and said it was hard for him to believe that it was the trans because the car drove and shifted so well other then it getting hung up a little a 2000rpm and just about everything described in this video. They kept the car did some things and well after $1000 I got the car back and it was all better it was as quiet sounding and ran as good as the day I bought it. That was last summer so by mid winter i noticed it was going back to the way it was but even worse the violent jerking you described was worse and the misfire had gotten worse. So I have started looking into it my self and trying to fix it. After learning that the problem could be caused by the spark plugs i thought to myself after all this time paying money to have it worked on I,don't ever recall ever once paying for spark plugs. I checked them and learned that at 188,000 miles they never once had been replaced so i replaced them my self two days ago plugs and wires. So here where I'm at. Before the spark plug replacement The car was doing everything you described exactly but it was struggling at 2000rpm after replacing the spark plugs and wires I can tell the improvement it no longer struggles at 2000rpm and is smoother. However its is now struggling at 4000rpm not nearly as bad its a very slight misfire that gets past it quickly but I'm still getting the jerk you describe that hasn't changed when down shifting that part has stayed pretty much the same but overall it has improved none the less. When i come to a stop at a red lite I notice the jerk the most when down shifting to a stop it never does this everyday some days it doesn't do it at all but on days it does its consistent the whole day. I thought it might be a coil but if it was then why did the misfire change slightly to 4000rpm and now works perfectly fine at 2000rpm where I originally had the problem at
Mine had the same symptoms , but...It also throws a P07a5 code to stating its a “Transmission Friction Element “B” Stuck on” Its at Ford today getting looked at. I will post my results after it’s repaired to help other decide on future Ford Purchases. Note: I was given a rental, a 2017 Ford Focus at 45K miles similar to my 2015 Focus at 55K but the rental drives awesome and we all know rentals get treated badly.
Stay tuned for Five Star Fords diagnosis’s.....,
Don't forget to post the results.
I think he Forgot
I couldn't find the misfire problem for 2 years on my explorer. It turned out that under the ignition coil there is a plate that grounds itself to the frame. I wire brushed all the rust, and car ran like brand new again! A zero dollar fix, that cost me a few thousand over time blowing my rear end or rear end seals from jolting.
doubtful im on my second motor in the explorer i hate this car
Yeah. 👆
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
hey i got a question for you! i have a 2015 ford escape 2.0 EcoBoost with 122k. recently when i first start my car and i usually let it idle for about 3 minutes and i put it in drive and the car jolts a little bit! if i put it in reverse or neutral its all smooth! once the car warms up everything is smooth like coming out of a store start the car put it in drive and its smooth only when i first start my car, my transmission was rebuilt at 53k and now has 122k on it, last week i did do a transmission drain and fill on it and the transmission fluid was dirty and black! but it did have a little red color to it! and the transmission fluid didnt smell burnt. it seemed to fix the problem start the car in the morning put it in drive all smooth! i think the problem is coming back when i put the car in drive its very slight jerk, do you think i should do another drain and fill on the transmission to get more of the dirty fluid out? any advice? oh yeah no check engine light on.
Hey man, sometimes after driving for a little while 20mins or so when i put my foot on the acclerator, the exhaust sounds louder and discontinuous ( sounds like small explosions after each other). This sound goes straight away when I restart the engine strangely! could this be due to engine misfire or somethung else?
But as i said it doesn't always come on and goes away when i restart the engine!
any ideas or suggestion is much appreciated
ps i dont get any dashboard lights
I've got a 2010 FX Ford F-150 it's lifted with an exhaust, and it has a cylinder 8 slight misfire, I don't know how accurate that is because it runs fine, idles fine, sounds fine. I'm so confused.
Did you ever figure it out? My 2011 Towncar 4.6 had an engine coolant leak from the intake manifold and that would go right into the #8 spark plug well.
To anybody out there:
I daily drive a 2000 F150 4x4 (5.4) and experience a harsh lurch the SECOND I take my foot off of the petal when I'm going above 65mph. I just replaced my intake manifold seal and confirmed that the intake was NOT cracked/deformed in any way. I am being told that it could be my driveshafts, MAF sensor, vaccum leak, bad coil, bad injector, or bad spark splug. ANY ideas? I used MAF cleaner, I checked my spark plugs, cleaned all of my injectors, and still experience the issue.
Any luck with this same issue here
Any updates?
@@erickfigz2418 Sold it last year after purchasing a newer EcoBoost.
I swapped the plugs, coils, and injectors which solved the issues before I ended up selling it
I’m back - my 16 EcoBoost has the same issue 😂🖕🖕🖕
I have the same issue with 2014 GMC Denali to a T
This sounds similar to my car problems. I have a 2014 Dodge Dart, I was on the interstate when I could feel a loss of power. I was doing about 65-70 and my speed was dropping, slowly. I had my radio going so I turned it down and I could hear the engine revving and trying to upshift. I’ve known my car to do some weird things. My buddy was in the car with me and I told him “eventually it’s going to go into limp mode where it won’t let me drive past 10mph.” So I was lucky enough to get it home. It was tricky because after every green light It would take awhile to get up to speed, it would maintain speed well but I could tell it was having a hard time shifting. I would let off the gas to try and let it shift the way it needed to. I milked it the whole way Home. I have not had a tune up and my car has a 165,000 on it. Not sure if it’s a tune up issue or something more serious.
I have a strange bucking when going from a stop if i sort of floor it the whole truck bucks like a hard shift, but if i go slow i dont really notice it, afraid it could be the trans but not sure..
This should have been a Ford factory recall for this poor design.
Do you see this complain on 09 ford flex?? Good video bro thanks
Can a bad camshaft sensor create misfires and thus this same hard jerking?
Aloha, love your channel and approach to difficult, hard to fix issues on Ford's. I have a1990 Econoline with a hard miss and shuddering. The van sits 6 months out of the year. recently I replaced the distributor, plugs, wires, coil. What are the odds that the ecu has leaking capacitors contributing to this?. Is this more difficult to diagnose on an OBD1 system. ? any input would be appreciated.
My company has a bunch of f150 5.0 trucks 2019-2022 and ive been in 3 now that when you accelerate from the light consistently randomly it pops and backfires in the intake. Drops power like the timing is messed up. Just got mine back from ford replaced cam phasers and still have the problem. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated.
My 09 Taurus does this but I don’t have a check engine light on. I think my problem is the cheap ignition coils I bought...it drives perfectly fine it just does that stupid rumble every now and then
My 2015 does the same same thing. I heard it's just shifting gears
I have a 2003 Toyota solara. When I drive and am coasting my RPM’s will fluctuate and it feels like my transmission is downshifting hard. Literally feels like a jump. Do you think this could be the cause? Thanks.
Any idea.. ?😭 2003 Acura TL type s ..After I change spark plugs and coil - symptom now is rough shifting and lack of engine power during acceleration.
Ex-muslim Atheist Your transmission is probably going out or already bad. I had a 2003 Accord V6 and had the same issue. Both cars use the same engine and transmission.
Dang I knew it was about time to change my spark plugs but I thought that shuddering in my 2010 4.6 f150 was a transmission issue. I'll change them in the next few days and see if that did the trick
Did it work?
@@farajalagory8027 these assholes never update us on the repairs. lol
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle. The symptom is that it shudders while driving and at times a it shuts off while driving, but not all the time. I noticed that the issue occurs when i filled the tank. Once it drops to half a tank it drives great. I have replaced (Throttled body, EGR, Computer, 1 coli for miss fire on cylinder 3, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump) and still have the same symptom. On a Ford blog page. The Ford tech says that it is the Throddle body but still have the problem. Any idea on what it might be? I did get a new AC system for the car. It seemed that once i got a whole new AC system. This problem occurred after 2 month's after the AC system was installed.
Very nice video! Thank you wizard. I have a question, I have a 92 Mercury Topaz 3.0, when I first start the car it starts ok and idles "fine" for 20 seconds, then starts misfiring, (If I drive it at that moment it feels heavy), if I'm in park and give it gas it helps it to stabilize but when releasing the pedal it goes back to misfiring. After it warms up the misfire goes away 89%, it feels better and has more power. The misfires aren't constant, sometimes when I'm in a stop sign car almost wants to stall for a sec, however, it's not that common. I came into conclusion it's a spark issue since fuel pressure is perfect even when it misfires, all injectors are clicking also. What could the issue be? It's OBD1 I can't use my scanner to diagnose it better and it has no codes related to that on the self-test (KOEO and KOER). When clear flood cranking engine sounds even, so I assume it's not compression. OH BTW tailpipe smells awful, not like a rich condition, it's a different very strong smell and produces headaches; also I rebuilt the engine because it overheated but the problem was kind of there before. Please help!!! :(
Did you fix it?
@@farajalagory8027 hi! Actually I didn’t get to fix it yet. I moved away shortly after that comment and parked the car since, hope I can soon sort everything out again.
What I do remember actually is diagnosing a couple of weeks before parking, is a bad bank 2 S1 O2 sensor. That sensor began to fail completely and not report right and was flooding that bank with fuel even in hot.
That makes sense to be the culprit of those cold misfires because before it completely failed, for the first 20 seconds that was fine with no misfire I assume it was still in open loop so the O2s don’t read. After those 20 seconds the sensors start reading and as that sensor was in the verge of dying it threw the correct mixture away until it got hot enough.
I have a 2008 F150 4.2 L V6 61000 miles w/ knock on hills; Can I use Premium fuel. The manual says never to use premium if any problem go to another brand. I use quality fuel usually BP. Will using premium fuel do any damages?????
I have a 2011 f350 6.7l. I need to replace the solenoids in the tranny and was wondering if you could let me know the best way to replace them.
Seen the video you replacing the tranny fluid and seen the solenoids and just wished you had a video on replacing them too.
i had same issue before, customer complaint tranny slipping and shifting hard , i did a quick mcgyver test which is load the engine and feel how it runs and soon enough both banks are lean which caused by crack intake tube
2003 grand marquis. Why does my mode 6 not have as many categories as yours?
My wife 2007 Edge Sel awd 3.5L v6 suv has tow package & I think sport as well...(I think), Amy way just got Code P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. An the s7v does jerk at times so I am wondering if what you speaking upon here applies to what I been experiencing exactly as you described. Yes I got flashing check Engine light that it flashes just as you showed in the video.... what was the fix for everything you talked about here ?
I recently bought a 04 freestar and it has been trouble since day one the only code that comes up is the coil pack so 3 coil packs and new plugs and wires later it still idles rough bogs down and has no power I tried to go uphill in it the rpms were at 3000 and it was barely going 15mph I'm at a loss I just don't what else it could be
fordtechmakuloco. my 2010 ford fusion is doing amost the same hesitating on my rmps comes and goes away. checked the coil packs change spark plugs. checked my throttle nd throttle position sensor. im getting bad Mpg like 7.0 mpg. any idea.?
Alvaro Silva did you ever fix it ?
Transmission solenoid
injectors?
I get zero lights. Ive got the 4.0, 03 explorer. It has violent bang when going up a hill or on a pull? Ive had the drive line looked at. Full compression on all cylinders. No lights at all. We did new bearings and hubs and the transfer case seems good. Rear gears seems good no metal. Its got 169k miles. Ive had it at an independent shop with no success but have an appointment next week for at the Ford service. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have 2005 f250 with the 5.4 3 valve. I replaced all the coils. I pull a trailer with it (5500 lbs) and while accelerating at high rpms it hesitates and shudders a little or no power. I was thinking I may have a fuel issue or injector issue? 200,000 miles, Just turned over this weekend.