The tutorial is very straight forward. Good Job. I tried it myself and found reverse bleeding is so much easier and quick bleeding process. It took me maximum 5 minutes to completely replace the old fluid with the new. Few things to consider :- - Keep soft cloth handy to wipe spilled break fluid. - Make sure the pipe between the syringe and bleeder nut make proper seal. - It require two syringe - Bigger one to carry fluid, smaller one to suck old fluid from reservoir. - ensure no oil spills on break shoe or disc. If it spills, wash everything with soap fluid. If possible, remove the pads and then wash them.
Hello bro .. I have apache 160 4v bsvi . Recently i changed my front brake pads then after my disc got jammed . Then the mechanic removed the master cylinder and cleaned it fixed but after traveling for 15-20 kms the problem again arises and my disc plate also get heated up by traveling only 15 kms . What to do please suggest! @ARKA RIDER
Ask your mechanic to take out and clean the slave cylinder carefully and clean the slider pins and make sure they are lubricated well with grease. There's a video on my channel on how to service your brake system you can check that out for further information.
Nahi bhai acha yahi rahega ki hamesha new brake oil use kia jaye kuki brake oil Hygroscopic hote hai matlab ye ki wo hava mai se moisture keech lete hai apne andar jisse ki unka boiling temperature kam hojata hai. Isse braking performance kam hosakti hai hard braking mai.
Bhai ABS mai normal brake se lamba Hose hota hai islye ya to zyada pressure lagana padta hai ya fir ap upar brake lever ko press karke fir push karne ki try karo or agar usse bhi kam na chale to ek bar bike ko start karke band karke fir try karo. Kuki ABS brake system mai pump hota hai
Hi bro. I actually tried this method. But I was unable to push the fluid through the valve upwards no matter how much pressure was applied. My bleeder valve was properly open still the issue was there. Do you have any idea why this might be happening? Initially I suspected that the valve is not working properly. But after lot of struggle with reverse bleeding I just went back to regular method and fluid was coming out properly out of the bleeder valve. So I think there is some other problem. Though I did bleeding regular way but I still suspect some air might be there in the system. Please share your thoughts.
Bhai as per your comment I'm giving you some suggestions try these next time. -Remove the bleeder valve properly take it out and check it for the rust from the inside bleeder valves are highly prone to rust if not taken care of. - Sometimes air get trapped in the hose and it became nasty to take it out so do one thing open your bleeder valve and let it open and fill your brake oil reservoir to the brim and tie the brake lever with cord or zip tie and let it stay like that for over night. The oil will start dripping out from the bleeder valve overnight and check it in the morning and check out if you have pressure or not. If yes then all of the air is removed now and now you can try reverse bleeding. ( Put a cloth on the floor if you're doing this otherwise oil will spill everywhere) - As now you're saying that you have done it by conventional and you think that there's still air inside you can do this too - press your brake lever as hard as you can and tie it with the cord or zip tie as tight as possible and leave it overnight or a day (longer the better). And try to feel your brake response if it's more crispier then be assured that air is removed from your system now. - While reverse bleeding check if your brake lever is fully depressed or disengaged sometimes what happens if your brake lever remains engaged even a little bit the hole which allow the oil to come up will be blocked and you'll not be able to push the oil from bleeder valve These are the remedies which worked for me always try to do this bro and let me know if you get success or not . If not then let me know I'll ask my Guru's too.
@@ARKARIDER Yes bro I will try these. Actually I was doing for rear brakes so. Only one way to keep brakes engaged is to put some heavy weight which I m reluctant to do as of now. But I m thinking the issue might have been this. While filling my syringe with fluid I had lot of air gap above the fluid which might be the reason I was unable to push anything into valve. As this was the 1st time I m doing brake bleeding I didnt realize the issue. I was thinking may be valve has some issue. I realized this after doing conventional way and coming back to room. 1st I will try reverse bleeding this time with syringe filled properly and then if still it doesnt works then will try out the remedies you mentioned.
For rear brake what i used to do is put the bike on center stand then tie a strong rope to lever and press it with hands (or you can ask someone to press it with feet as hard as they can) and while keeping the tension on the lever tie the rope with your center stand tightly. In my Apache there's a small metal part coming out of the center stand which works perfectly.
@@ARKARIDER Thanks for the tips bro. I tried reverse bleeding again today and it worked like charm. At start today also I wasnt able to force fluid back. So I used Trick that I learnt from another youtuber, I pressed the lever slightly 2 3 times and then it started working. I was then able to force fluid through brake line upto reservoir 😀. Hopefully my brakes will now work better. Or else next mod would be to change brake pads to Sintered ones 😁
The tutorial is very straight forward. Good Job.
I tried it myself and found reverse bleeding is so much easier and quick bleeding process.
It took me maximum 5 minutes to completely replace the old fluid with the new.
Few things to consider :-
- Keep soft cloth handy to wipe spilled break fluid.
- Make sure the pipe between the syringe and bleeder nut make proper seal.
- It require two syringe - Bigger one to carry fluid, smaller one to suck old fluid from reservoir.
- ensure no oil spills on break shoe or disc. If it spills, wash everything with soap fluid. If possible, remove the pads and then wash them.
Glad that this video was able to help you. Thanks for the lovely comment 🙏🏻
This worked in my case,thank you sir
Bhai it'll work in every case or on any bike.
Good information guru 😃
Very good
Hello bro .. I have apache 160 4v bsvi . Recently i changed my front brake pads then after my disc got jammed . Then the mechanic removed the master cylinder and cleaned it fixed but after traveling for 15-20 kms the problem again arises and my disc plate also get heated up by traveling only 15 kms . What to do please suggest! @ARKA RIDER
Ask your mechanic to take out and clean the slave cylinder carefully and clean the slider pins and make sure they are lubricated well with grease.
There's a video on my channel on how to service your brake system you can check that out for further information.
@@ARKARIDER he had done all the above things you mentioned twice . It gets ok but after sometime the problem again arise
Good knowledge man
why are u using dot 5.1 instead of dot 3 or 4
we can't use above 4 right
Bro kya hum new aur old ek saat nhi use kr skte brake fluid
Nahi bhai acha yahi rahega ki hamesha new brake oil use kia jaye kuki brake oil Hygroscopic hote hai matlab ye ki wo hava mai se moisture keech lete hai apne andar jisse ki unka boiling temperature kam hojata hai. Isse braking performance kam hosakti hai hard braking mai.
Hello brother. How good is liqui moly Dot 5.1 ? Kindly reply.
Bhai give me some time I'll make a detailed video.
Pata nahi Sir Kyu 💉 brak oil Andar ja he nahi raha Pressure sa he Dal raha hu lakin Ulti wapas a raha hai , Pulser 150 ABS ha front disc ka
Bhai ABS mai normal brake se lamba Hose hota hai islye ya to zyada pressure lagana padta hai ya fir ap upar brake lever ko press karke fir push karne ki try karo or agar usse bhi kam na chale to ek bar bike ko start karke band karke fir try karo. Kuki ABS brake system mai pump hota hai
Very very nice
Hi bro. I actually tried this method. But I was unable to push the fluid through the valve upwards no matter how much pressure was applied. My bleeder valve was properly open still the issue was there. Do you have any idea why this might be happening? Initially I suspected that the valve is not working properly. But after lot of struggle with reverse bleeding I just went back to regular method and fluid was coming out properly out of the bleeder valve. So I think there is some other problem. Though I did bleeding regular way but I still suspect some air might be there in the system. Please share your thoughts.
Bhai as per your comment I'm giving you some suggestions try these next time.
-Remove the bleeder valve properly take it out and check it for the rust from the inside bleeder valves are highly prone to rust if not taken care of.
- Sometimes air get trapped in the hose and it became nasty to take it out so do one thing open your bleeder valve and let it open and fill your brake oil reservoir to the brim and tie the brake lever with cord or zip tie and let it stay like that for over night. The oil will start dripping out from the bleeder valve overnight and check it in the morning and check out if you have pressure or not. If yes then all of the air is removed now and now you can try reverse bleeding. ( Put a cloth on the floor if you're doing this otherwise oil will spill everywhere)
- As now you're saying that you have done it by conventional and you think that there's still air inside you can do this too - press your brake lever as hard as you can and tie it with the cord or zip tie as tight as possible and leave it overnight or a day (longer the better). And try to feel your brake response if it's more crispier then be assured that air is removed from your system now.
- While reverse bleeding check if your brake lever is fully depressed or disengaged sometimes what happens if your brake lever remains engaged even a little bit the hole which allow the oil to come up will be blocked and you'll not be able to push the oil from bleeder valve
These are the remedies which worked for me always try to do this bro and let me know if you get success or not . If not then let me know I'll ask my Guru's too.
@@ARKARIDER Yes bro I will try these. Actually I was doing for rear brakes so. Only one way to keep brakes engaged is to put some heavy weight which I m reluctant to do as of now.
But I m thinking the issue might have been this. While filling my syringe with fluid I had lot of air gap above the fluid which might be the reason I was unable to push anything into valve. As this was the 1st time I m doing brake bleeding I didnt realize the issue. I was thinking may be valve has some issue. I realized this after doing conventional way and coming back to room. 1st I will try reverse bleeding this time with syringe filled properly and then if still it doesnt works then will try out the remedies you mentioned.
For rear brake what i used to do is put the bike on center stand then tie a strong rope to lever and press it with hands (or you can ask someone to press it with feet as hard as they can) and while keeping the tension on the lever tie the rope with your center stand tightly. In my Apache there's a small metal part coming out of the center stand which works perfectly.
ruclips.net/video/XxfTy8LMoqI/видео.html
Bro watch this video after 1:40 for rear brake i made it long back for the same
@@ARKARIDER Thanks for the tips bro. I tried reverse bleeding again today and it worked like charm. At start today also I wasnt able to force fluid back. So I used Trick that I learnt from another youtuber, I pressed the lever slightly 2 3 times and then it started working. I was then able to force fluid through brake line upto reservoir 😀. Hopefully my brakes will now work better. Or else next mod would be to change brake pads to Sintered ones 😁
Btw speed meter kha he
Full assembly of bike islye side mai rakha hua hai
Rear break naman po patingin po ng diskarti hirap ako sa r150
Frist sir
Supet
From where you got the syringe?
Medical shop
Great, I couldn't find a syringe more than 5ml
Nice bro
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Bhai sahab apna number