Finally got around to cleaning my DPF of ash (red-brown in colour) and plenty came out. Fixed. DPF needed to be removed to change RHS engine mount anyway. Job really wasn't too bad. No more 148A00.
Nice, I'm glad you finally got back to it! These engines are so complex, I understand that you have removed your DPF and manually cleaned it but I still wonder why it clogged so bad in the first place. If you haven't seen recently I replaced my themostat and whilst you may think this is not related at all, as I said these engines are complex and my old thermostat was running the engine way too cool and I just wonder if this partially impacted my vehicles ability to do proper hot DPF burns all along. Anyway check how warm your engine is running from the dash and checkout my video on the thermostat if you are interested: ruclips.net/video/zLN9AvHwRy4/видео.html Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt I told you about the updated PN thermostat originally lol. Yes the thermostat helped a fraction but didn't really make all that much difference in my case, neither did full clean of the intake manifold & egr system, new air filters, PCV and new turbo, all needed doing anyway and it all no doubt helped a bit. My problem was DPF ash buildup (not soot). Maybe previous owners were using the wrong oil and years of a bad PCV. Mine has done ~220,000kms, ash buildup seems a bit premature but should be good for at least another 200,000kms now. Thanks for your vids, really helped me work on my car and work through to finding the problem on my ML350.
@@joetrojan2568 ahh, ok, well I should say thankyou for putting me onto considering my thermostat! My car was definitely running cool! What I'm thinking is many factors may build up with these cars over time! Cheers Drew
@@joetrojan2568 I did a big trip last school holiday's and it ran really sweet. 2 days after I got home the Front Left wheel bearing went, which I replaced on the channel! Appart from that it's running really well, but mine has cracked 190,000 kms so things are going to break! Cheers Drew
Same code here but did the air filters 1st plus it was due for an oil change. Done and reset filter adaptions but error re-occurred. Will try the DPF cleaner additive next right after cleaning the MAFs as they are a bit grimey. Thanks for the effort on this, not much info out there for this specific code.
@@DrewFixIt Today cleaning the MAFs made no difference. I noticed you did the PCV prior to any of this, have that ordered. DPF AntiClog yet to be ran. My turbo has excess play so a new unit ordered as well.
@@joetrojan2568 yes and I also put a genuine Mercedes PCV on. If you’ve watched my videos you will know I’m a big fan of the non OEM parts normally but in the instance of the PCV I really wanted to make sure it was spot on! A worn PCV will mean you could have excess oil go in in the intake so it could be correlated! Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt found some more info: there is an updated thermostat PN. Mine really doesn't get above 80deg C very often usually around 50-60. Should be 90. Looking in the regen history the last successful regen was over 50,000kms ago (edit: disregard as I am not reading the KM correctly) but pressures and levels all read fine. I'll report back after some new bits are installed, probably the just the PCV and thermostat, the turbo can wait and I'll do the oil cooler seals as preventative while I'm in the V for the turbo. Thanks again. (FYI 210kms 2012)
@@joetrojan2568 Hi Mate, interestingly mine runs cool too, but I have never thought much of it. I just did a test drive of about an hour at highway speed (circa 100 km/h) and my temperature is running between 70 and 80 deg C. You could definitely be onto something and what you might find that as a complete system many little things add up to this code manifesting with the vehicle trying to regen too often! Please report back and let us know how you get on? Cheers Drew
Hey Drew, I am using Carly to check the values and my differential sensor is changing from -20.000 to +20.000. My soot amount is -200 grams and I don't know what the problem is. I bought the car like this and did change the PCV and air filters, but with no adaptations. What do you think could be the problem?
Hey, Drew, this shop didn't drain my torque converter, and now, 15k miles later, I have a p2759 code. Just wanted to know if the solenoid is in the conductor plate/valve body? Thanks
Hi Mate, I would say this issue is unrelated to not draining the torque converter. As per my video on the 722.9 service ruclips.net/video/ggGk3_Uu5_M/видео.htmlsi=cXH5u26lBmtOvp2V I don’t personally think that it’s overly necessary unless the oil is clearly burnt! Cheers Drew
Hi Drew, Thanks for sharing your video. I have a 2008 ML 320, there is no check engine light shown but my vehicle is running poorly. I recently had some work done on it after I was hit by a deer. The shop noticed there was a slight shutter of the transmission. I had another shop put in some Shutter Guard (Fix), it worked for about a day and a half before the problem got extremely worse. It has serve jerking and a very rough driving experience. When in park, I tried raising the rpms and it wouldn't go beyond 2000 rpms. I am in the United States and wish you were here😊. Do you think it may need a new torque converter? Any suggestions?
Hi Mate, I would never put Shutter Guard in a Mercedes transmission. I would personally straight away do a transmission service on it as per: ruclips.net/video/ggGk3_Uu5_M/видео.html that being said if your engine won’t rev past 2000 rpm in park then I think you have an issue on the engine side too. The best thing to do is to scan the vehicle for codes to diagnose the issues that you are having with a scan tool. If you do not have a scan tool, here is a very cheap one for Mercedes: amzn.to/3BKnVL8 This tool will allow you to read and clear all of the Mercedes faults with your vehicle. Cheers Drew
Hi drew, I have the same vehicle just older 2007 over the last year I have been having problems with jurking when accelerating usually between 2 and 2 1/2 thousand revs and hesitation on gear change sometimes, I have replaced the turbo actuator about 3 months ago and had it reset this didn’t help? There are no engine check lights? Any advice or help you could suggest would be gratefully appreciated
Hi Mate, we have had a similar issue with the Black W164 ML320 that you sometimes see on the channel. I am assuming that you fitted an aftermarket turbo actuator yourself? Double check your setup and re-check all of the linkages and potentially try another aftermarket brand of turbo actuator as we had a similar issue and found that going with another turbo actuator solved the problem. Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt hi drew thanks for your reply in the end it was the egr valve sticking and causing soot to block the dpf filter I’ve had these both resolved and had a stage 1 re-map done to the car now the car runs fantastic and with much more torque and hp and strangely better fuel economy 👍🏻
@@jasdavsim interesting! I am surprised that the card did not through an error code indicating that the EGR valve was sticking ... did you scan the car for codes? I have never had a re-map done personally, however given that you had one done did you by chance do a "soft" EGR delete as part of the re-map? Cheers Drew
Hi drew I took the car to an turbo specialist here in the uk ( best turbos ) they said the egr sometimes will not fault if it is intermittently sticking and yes I’ve had a deletion on egr and dpf both programmed out, the stage 1 retune as increased hp by about 35-40 and about 100 torques cheers
Finally got around to cleaning my DPF of ash (red-brown in colour) and plenty came out. Fixed. DPF needed to be removed to change RHS engine mount anyway. Job really wasn't too bad. No more 148A00.
Nice, I'm glad you finally got back to it! These engines are so complex, I understand that you have removed your DPF and manually cleaned it but I still wonder why it clogged so bad in the first place. If you haven't seen recently I replaced my themostat and whilst you may think this is not related at all, as I said these engines are complex and my old thermostat was running the engine way too cool and I just wonder if this partially impacted my vehicles ability to do proper hot DPF burns all along. Anyway check how warm your engine is running from the dash and checkout my video on the thermostat if you are interested: ruclips.net/video/zLN9AvHwRy4/видео.html Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt I told you about the updated PN thermostat originally lol. Yes the thermostat helped a fraction but didn't really make all that much difference in my case, neither did full clean of the intake manifold & egr system, new air filters, PCV and new turbo, all needed doing anyway and it all no doubt helped a bit. My problem was DPF ash buildup (not soot). Maybe previous owners were using the wrong oil and years of a bad PCV. Mine has done ~220,000kms, ash buildup seems a bit premature but should be good for at least another 200,000kms now. Thanks for your vids, really helped me work on my car and work through to finding the problem on my ML350.
@@joetrojan2568 ahh, ok, well I should say thankyou for putting me onto considering my thermostat! My car was definitely running cool! What I'm thinking is many factors may build up with these cars over time! Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt all good, figured you wouldn't remember me, it has been a while. Sounds like yours is running mint so that's great news.
@@joetrojan2568 I did a big trip last school holiday's and it ran really sweet. 2 days after I got home the Front Left wheel bearing went, which I replaced on the channel! Appart from that it's running really well, but mine has cracked 190,000 kms so things are going to break! Cheers Drew
Same code here but did the air filters 1st plus it was due for an oil change. Done and reset filter adaptions but error re-occurred. Will try the DPF cleaner additive next right after cleaning the MAFs as they are a bit grimey. Thanks for the effort on this, not much info out there for this specific code.
Hi Mate, I suggest put the LiquiMoly DPF Anti-Clog in and then take it for a good country highway drive for a couple hundred kms! Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt Today cleaning the MAFs made no difference. I noticed you did the PCV prior to any of this, have that ordered. DPF AntiClog yet to be ran. My turbo has excess play so a new unit ordered as well.
@@joetrojan2568 yes and I also put a genuine Mercedes PCV on. If you’ve watched my videos you will know I’m a big fan of the non OEM parts normally but in the instance of the PCV I really wanted to make sure it was spot on! A worn PCV will mean you could have excess oil go in in the intake so it could be correlated! Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt found some more info: there is an updated thermostat PN. Mine really doesn't get above 80deg C very often usually around 50-60. Should be 90. Looking in the regen history the last successful regen was over 50,000kms ago (edit: disregard as I am not reading the KM correctly) but pressures and levels all read fine. I'll report back after some new bits are installed, probably the just the PCV and thermostat, the turbo can wait and I'll do the oil cooler seals as preventative while I'm in the V for the turbo. Thanks again. (FYI 210kms 2012)
@@joetrojan2568 Hi Mate, interestingly mine runs cool too, but I have never thought much of it. I just did a test drive of about an hour at highway speed (circa 100 km/h) and my temperature is running between 70 and 80 deg C. You could definitely be onto something and what you might find that as a complete system many little things add up to this code manifesting with the vehicle trying to regen too often! Please report back and let us know how you get on? Cheers Drew
Hey Drew, I am using Carly to check the values and my differential sensor is changing from -20.000 to +20.000. My soot amount is -200 grams and I don't know what the problem is. I bought the car like this and did change the PCV and air filters, but with no adaptations. What do you think could be the problem?
What codes do you get from Carly?
@@DrewFixIt P148A00 and P13AF00
Hey, Drew, this shop didn't drain my torque converter, and now, 15k miles later, I have a p2759 code. Just wanted to know if the solenoid is in the conductor plate/valve body? Thanks
Hi Mate, I would say this issue is unrelated to not draining the torque converter. As per my video on the 722.9 service ruclips.net/video/ggGk3_Uu5_M/видео.htmlsi=cXH5u26lBmtOvp2V I don’t personally think that it’s overly necessary unless the oil is clearly burnt! Cheers Drew
Hi Drew,
Thanks for sharing your video. I have a 2008 ML 320, there is no check engine light shown but my vehicle is running poorly. I recently had some work done on it after I was hit by a deer. The shop noticed there was a slight shutter of the transmission. I had another shop put in some Shutter Guard (Fix), it worked for about a day and a half before the problem got extremely worse. It has serve jerking and a very rough driving experience. When in park, I tried raising the rpms and it wouldn't go beyond 2000 rpms. I am in the United States and wish you were here😊. Do you think it may need a new torque converter? Any suggestions?
Hi Mate, I would never put Shutter Guard in a Mercedes transmission. I would personally straight away do a transmission service on it as per:
ruclips.net/video/ggGk3_Uu5_M/видео.html that being said if your engine won’t rev past 2000 rpm in park then I think you have an issue on the engine side too. The best thing to do is to scan the vehicle for codes to diagnose the issues that you are having with a scan tool. If you do not have a scan tool, here is a very cheap one for Mercedes: amzn.to/3BKnVL8 This tool will allow you to read and clear all of the Mercedes faults with your vehicle. Cheers Drew
Hi drew, I have the same vehicle just older 2007 over the last year I have been having problems with jurking when accelerating usually between 2 and 2 1/2 thousand revs and hesitation on gear change sometimes, I have replaced the turbo actuator about 3 months ago and had it reset this didn’t help? There are no engine check lights? Any advice or help you could suggest would be gratefully appreciated
Hi Mate, we have had a similar issue with the Black W164 ML320 that you sometimes see on the channel. I am assuming that you fitted an aftermarket turbo actuator yourself? Double check your setup and re-check all of the linkages and potentially try another aftermarket brand of turbo actuator as we had a similar issue and found that going with another turbo actuator solved the problem. Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt hi drew thanks for your reply in the end it was the egr valve sticking and causing soot to block the dpf filter I’ve had these both resolved and had a stage 1 re-map done to the car now the car runs fantastic and with much more torque and hp and strangely better fuel economy 👍🏻
@@jasdavsim interesting! I am surprised that the card did not through an error code indicating that the EGR valve was sticking ... did you scan the car for codes? I have never had a re-map done personally, however given that you had one done did you by chance do a "soft" EGR delete as part of the re-map? Cheers Drew
Hi drew I took the car to an turbo specialist here in the uk ( best turbos ) they said the egr sometimes will not fault if it is intermittently sticking and yes I’ve had a deletion on egr and dpf both programmed out, the stage 1 retune as increased hp by about 35-40 and about 100 torques cheers