Stunning suit! The drape and soft shaping is superb. Before any man decides to squeeze into another too-tight, 'slim cut' suit he should watch this video!
Fuller cut suits are thankfully making a comeback! May said comeback usher in the marginalization of the “slim cut, slim lapel” suit for the next 5 (or more) decades.
His english is perfect and suddenly 13:35 "come se chiama". 20:39 "that's the thing i always try to do with my clients is, everyone asks me if i have a house style and i never tell them that we do, because i feel like if i tell you i have a house style then you have to fit within my mold. I feel like that's counter cultural to the whole bespoke process" Well said.
I see you've really gotten into the whole striped suits world. In hindsight it's pretty obvious you'd like it, they fit your personality perfectly. Hard to believe you were so hesitant about them for so many years
Go to Thailand. NO joke. I've had several Bespoke suits made by trained craftsman in Italy. I have one made out of Itailian Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna fabric that is outstanding. $750 for both pieces and came with 2 ties they threw in to the deal! It rivals my Roberto Revilla suit Bespoke out of London that ran me $3600. Bespoke tailored shirts will run you $45 with custom stitch patterns for the buttons with color thread if you wish. Again, pick your own fabric. You will be very pleased indeed.
Of all the videos I’ve watched on this channel, I have to say I think this guy is my favorite. The videos you have with him are excellent. His explanation of the Gallo subtleties are so awesome to hear him explain. He is very well spoken without being boring or monotonous
Kirby I've gone off the deep end! I bought a beautiful pair of shoes from the thrift store that aren't even my size! I've polished them up and have them on the shelf as ornaments! It's all your fault xP
Kirby l have watched many of your bespoke videos, so l know you know what you're talking about..thanx for that..could l be a little presumptuous and ask your advice? I live in Perth WA. Could u direct me (italian tailors perhaps) towards a bespoke tailor. Much appreciated if you would..ciao
as a maker of split bamboo flyrods, I completely agree with the concept of getting to know your client and narrowing in on what would suit them best. The (sometimes difficult) art of listening/interpreting. We start off essentially like a made to measure arrangement, but soon I know what kind of action they prefer, the "feel" of the cork handle or even the overall aesthetic ("blinginess"). Alongside the standard features in rods that I wholesale to brokers.
Beautiful suit and great documentation of the process. Definitely a fan of Jensen and his work. Would love to see an in-depth comparison of this suit vs your Flusser striped suit. Both beautiful suits but such different styles. It would also be great to hear your thoughts on how your style has evolved from that first pinstripe/bead to this pinstripe suit.
Kirby, please! In the next installment it would be nice to hear how Eric and Gallo cuts it's shape and the chest drape treatment (since it seems their jackets actually have generous drape in that área), specially as a nice way of wrapping the whole "regional drape" treatment with Hitchcock and Mahone
Yep there’s something very wrong that maybe they just don’t explain. With the trousers it’s the same as soon as you see the back around the waist and the calves, but it’s still not finished. We shall see soon I guess.
Beautiful suit. I normally don’t care for pinstripes but the lines are very soft on this one. And the trousers cut for braces were an excellent choice.
make a video on how to wear nice shoes out... meaning how to be careful not to get them scuffed up, nicked, etc... I for one get serious anxiety when I wear my G&G or even Zegina or Kiton shoes out... worrying non stop about someone stepping on them, or banging them against something
That jacket is just pure perfection. Ive never see a men’s jacket follow the anatomical shape of the shoulders and posterior that well, the artistry here is just another level.
I really liked the cloth and the cut of the coat, but 1 QN: @44:41 The trousers look a little short to me. Can you maybe discuss that topic in one of your videos? My experience is that Americans usually wear their trousers shorter than in Europe. I’ve seen pictures of some recent American presidents where they looked as if their trousers were at half mast.
I really appreciate your videos. I would, however, encourage you to shorten the length. Sometimes it is difficult to devote that much time to watching.
Quick question I found recently that navy blue wax polish add's a depth to black shoes in sunlight looks unique so i was thinking can black wax polish add a Unique depth to navy blue shoes ? Almost a sort of patina.
Kirby, it's winter, there are heavy snowfalls in the Northeast and Midwest. Not all your viewers are Texans or living in the sunbelt. What should we be wearing in the winter on our feet that isn't hideous? Winter is not an excuse not to be stylish.
Kirby, as I’m in NYC every weekend you’ve first introduced me to Alan Flusser/Jonathan. Now I’m very intrigued at the possibility of commission a suit with Eric @ Sartoria Gallo for my wedding!
Kirby, where can I, an American in the Midwest, start with buying suits? Mens warehouse? Department stores? I don’t believe there are any bespoke options near me but I really want to start stepping up my wardrobe game.
Depending on where in the Midwest you live, start with J.H. And sons. They have stores in Omaha, Minneapolis, and Sioux Falls SD. They can do custom or high end RTW in suits, shirts, ties, shoes, the whole nine. Bespoke is a different story, but that’s a great place to start for quality and craftsmanship
The idea of a custom suit is appealing but one's changing body shape makes the high price tag a bit painful to digest! Unless one is lucky to have Kirby's symmetrical figure!
You Should Refer To "The 'Pelvis;' Area;" As "The Ilium Crestis;" That Is Most Accentuated; Profound; And Extremely Beautiful; And Beauty Defining Area Of A Male!!!! Including; Also; What I Perceive To Be The Case In Most Male Lions!!!!
Does anyone know what the price range is for such a suit? I'm sure someone will respond that "if you have to ask, you are not a customer for this kind of suit".
The picture in the back ground looks oddly hung.A group of smaller military colour full engravings in good frames would look better,The armoury in St James, Burlington arcade could help you.Thank you.
You could try Michael German Antiques, on Kensington Church Street.He has beautiful walking canes as well.The contact is Dominic...You will love the shop.Tell him I sent you! Have a great trip.James Wigington.
Kirby: we need a video on the "Prince Charles" kind of style. What do I mean? You are immaculate. Not a threat out of place. But, you've seen pictures of Prince Charles: patched shoes, patches clothing, frayed suit edges. It's "a look." That sort of preppy shabby sheik. It used to be big with big shots. My father used to tell me about bankers he knew with small holes in their clothes. Why? Their pipes would dump lit ash on them and burn through. Now, that is not you. That is not sartorial for you. But, you know it exists. Maybe a video on what that is, how you feel about it?
Paying for "bespoke" suit published on a RUclips channel and telling the customer he will not be getting a bespoke suit. Baffling (I am referring to not allowing for an odd color stitch on button hole if they want them) he encourages unique small details that make it your own.. except things you want to make it your own 😂
@@kirbyallison @30:47 he won't do an odd color on the button hole. I'll say that's probably the nicest looking cloth I've ever seen. That's exactly what I would like to wear. But if I wanted an odd button hole , which I would insist on because my style is 4 buttons total 3 buttoned and 1 undone and that odd unbuttoned would be the odd button hole. Might be a subtle odd color like maybe a chalk color that might match the pinstripe rather than the matching color of the base grey of the suit. But I would follow that style with different colors with different suit colors. A bit of a turn off to hear out of the gate, I'm not gonna do an odd button hole.
@@kirbyallison I've followed your journey for quite some time. Love the bespoke shoe videos especially when they have unintentional ASMR. The suits are awesome too. And like I said above this is like the perfect cloth color for my taste. Just didn't like hearing that about the button hole color lol
How about compare the quality of a Thailand Bespoke suit Vs. Italian. You will be surprised at the savings abd quality of the Thai craftsman. I had a wonderful suit made out of imported Italian fabric for $600 USD on my last trip. Surprisingly, it rivals my suit made by Roberto Revilla out of London!
My opinion is that I'm not really interested in seeing you get your billionth bespoke suit. I'm trying to be kind Kirby. But I'm a 100 percent disabled United States Marine and I just can't relate nor afford that financial decision. The life of a servant...but still my life. A better video would be..."How to alter a 500 dollar suit to make it look, fit, and function like a 5,000 suit. Including the cuff buttons." Edit: I was born in Tennessee but currently live in Kiev Ukraine..a retired Rifleman. And I will forever be a servant to my people...
Hate to critique a man that’s primary topics are style, but your pants don’t match the fit of your jacket. Way to flared and jacket fitted. Just think it would look better matched in fit!
as i get older, and heavier, it's either go custom, or wind up with huge shouldered suits that don't fit. it really sucks how bad OTR menswear is now. it's all basically gone. macy's is horrible. the whole industry needs to go to inexpensive custom!
I've worked with suits for a couple of years ... If you'd like they sell something called a portly (executive) suit. It runs with more narrow shoulders, a wider mid-section and wider pants. Good luck!
I wish I could dress this nicely. I live in rural Indiana. People look at me funny when I tuck in my shirt. If I wore a suit people wouldn't even talk to me lol. I realize the working class never had the privilege of dressing as nice as the wealthy. But there was a time when most people took pride in what they wore, regardless. I suppose there are too many other things vying for our attention and time and since it's not as much a cultural priority, why put in the effort? (It's possible to look nice even if you buy all your clothes from Goodwill)
44:57 the sheen of the fabric and color is amazing
very good choice
So glad he got to the sleeve length! Was driving me nuts, they didn’t appear to be the same length at all. Beautiful suit!
Stunning suit! The drape and soft shaping is superb. Before any man decides to squeeze into another too-tight, 'slim cut' suit he should watch this video!
Fuller cut suits are thankfully making a comeback! May said comeback usher in the marginalization of the “slim cut, slim lapel” suit for the next 5 (or more) decades.
Tight fitting suits look dope in my opinion
His english is perfect and suddenly 13:35 "come se chiama".
20:39 "that's the thing i always try to do with my clients is, everyone asks me if i have a house style and i never tell them that we do, because i feel like if i tell you i have a house style then you have to fit within my mold. I feel like that's counter cultural to the whole bespoke process" Well said.
I see you've really gotten into the whole striped suits world. In hindsight it's pretty obvious you'd like it, they fit your personality perfectly. Hard to believe you were so hesitant about them for so many years
I love striped suits. They remind me of 1930s/40s mafia in NYC
These are so dangerous. Making me want to go find a bespoke tailor. Custom tailored suits are just amazingly good looking
Go to Thailand. NO joke. I've had several Bespoke suits made by trained craftsman in Italy. I have one made out of Itailian Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna fabric that is outstanding. $750 for both pieces and came with 2 ties they threw in to the deal! It rivals my Roberto Revilla suit Bespoke out of London that ran me $3600. Bespoke tailored shirts will run you $45 with custom stitch patterns for the buttons with color thread if you wish. Again, pick your own fabric. You will be very pleased indeed.
I did one in poland. They laser measured my body. 600 eur for a two piece. Great stuff
@@brentschmgbert3578 tell me more. What company did you go to?
Um ok... did you see it hug his butt? Imagine paying for that
Of all the videos I’ve watched on this channel, I have to say I think this guy is my favorite. The videos you have with him are excellent. His explanation of the Gallo subtleties are so awesome to hear him explain. He is very well spoken without being boring or monotonous
Dude is a terrible cutter, and lazy.
Kirby I've gone off the deep end! I bought a beautiful pair of shoes from the thrift store that aren't even my size! I've polished them up and have them on the shelf as ornaments! It's all your fault xP
That's brilliant! You should share a picture on instagram!
Kirby l have watched many of your bespoke videos, so l know you know what you're talking about..thanx for that..could l be a little presumptuous and ask your advice? I live in Perth WA. Could u direct me (italian tailors perhaps) towards a bespoke tailor. Much appreciated if you would..ciao
Haha that’s awesome! We can all use a new hobby from time to time.
I'm watching this whilst practising creating button holes by hand. Perfect video to have playing in the background and great inspiration! Thanks Kirby
as a maker of split bamboo flyrods, I completely agree with the concept of getting to know your client and narrowing in on what would suit them best. The (sometimes difficult) art of listening/interpreting. We start off essentially like a made to measure arrangement, but soon I know what kind of action they prefer, the "feel" of the cork handle or even the overall aesthetic ("blinginess"). Alongside the standard features in rods that I wholesale to brokers.
I just love how long the skirt of the jacket is. So well proportioned.
Thanks for making these videos. I am learning so much!!!
Glad you like them!
@@kirbyallison could you make a video about your training program? how do you keep your shoulders so impossibly narrow and sloping?
The suit is crazy. Love the colour.
Good to hear from you Diego! I haven't seen you commenting 'first' in a while!
Great to see Eric again.
Beautiful suit and great documentation of the process. Definitely a fan of Jensen and his work. Would love to see an in-depth comparison of this suit vs your Flusser striped suit. Both beautiful suits but such different styles. It would also be great to hear your thoughts on how your style has evolved from that first pinstripe/bead to this pinstripe suit.
Kirby, please! In the next installment it would be nice to hear how Eric and Gallo cuts it's shape and the chest drape treatment (since it seems their jackets actually have generous drape in that área), specially as a nice way of wrapping the whole "regional drape" treatment with Hitchcock and Mahone
What's going on with the jacket on his right side, under the lapel?
Yes, there’s something not quite right there, and the crease on the back right hand side.
I wonder if the microphone on his tie is maybe causing it.
Yep there’s something very wrong that maybe they just don’t explain. With the trousers it’s the same as soon as you see the back around the waist and the calves, but it’s still not finished. We shall see soon I guess.
Absolutely beautiful suit, really structures your body nicely, think it’s my new favourite from your collection
Beautiful suit. To create something of that quality and presence requires huge skill.
Really nice fabric, and certainly nice suit! Congratulations, Kirby!
Love that you refer to him as "Maestro" :)
Beautiful suit. I normally don’t care for pinstripes but the lines are very soft on this one. And the trousers cut for braces were an excellent choice.
Okay Kirby, finally your found the most beautiful suit you own. This is simply perfect for you
very happy for you Kirby! Looks impeccable!
I admire you Mr. Allison. I see you as a man of styling not of fashion. Please make a video detailing your own 'Style' in formal clothing.
Great explanations of the nuances of bespoke tailoring.
What tie and what shoes? Lets see! Also those trousers are very nice. Great suit sir!
Man of tradition.
I've learned something new. I always wondered what that button was for on the inside of your trousers.
well done
make a video on how to wear nice shoes out... meaning how to be careful not to get them scuffed up, nicked, etc... I for one get serious anxiety when I wear my G&G or even Zegina or Kiton shoes out... worrying non stop about someone stepping on them, or banging them against something
Defensive walking, as I like to call it…
@@kirbyallison would make for a good video for us OCD types....
When are we getting an update on the cowboy boots you were measured for?
Very soon!
Kirby - would love to hear your opinion on the different bespoke suits you’ve got made
Gorgeous suit, best italian bespoke tailor, I love the details of the tailoring and measurements
looks like a bit of a gap in the back collar. Doesn't sit clean on the back of the neck.
I see that a bit too. I never see that in eric Jensen suits
Back balance is off. Should have been corrected in first fitting
@11:23 missed opportunity for a clickbait thumbnail!🤣
😂 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂
That jacket is just pure perfection. Ive never see a men’s jacket follow the anatomical shape of the shoulders and posterior that well, the artistry here is just another level.
Kirby this is hands down your best fitting suit. It "suits" you very well
Kirby who did you find best bespoke tailor in the U.S.?
I really liked the cloth and the cut of the coat, but 1 QN: @44:41 The trousers look a little short to me. Can you maybe discuss that topic in one of your videos? My experience is that Americans usually wear their trousers shorter than in Europe. I’ve seen pictures of some recent American presidents where they looked as if their trousers were at half mast.
That's so they can walk onto the White House Lawn in confidence for press conferences.
@@rastrats Shorter trouser lengths make them feel more confident?
@@expatexpat6531 Yes, confident they won't get their trouser bottom hems wet from the long wet grass, I imagine.
@@rastrats Hmm. I'll keep an eye out for the wet socks. To me, it just looks like they got the wash setting wrong.
Looks nice, but the collar doesn't hug the neck.
I really appreciate your videos. I would, however, encourage you to shorten the length. Sometimes it is difficult to devote that much time to watching.
Quick question I found recently that navy blue wax polish add's a depth to black shoes in sunlight looks unique so i was thinking can black wax polish add a Unique depth to navy blue shoes ? Almost a sort of patina.
Great sound/video.
Hi from România.
The sleeve looks like it's pulling?
Is there a SARTORIA GALLO office in Dallas? I really dont want to visit NY right now
I believe Eric travels here a few times a year. Reach out.
Beautiful, the lapel size... too big? Could you have gone for peak lapel,
How much you weigh at least 140 right???
Great interview Kirby, I heard you mention to not send your suit jacket to have it dry cleaned. What is property to have jacket cleaned/treated?
Just dont let them press it
Kirby, it's winter, there are heavy snowfalls in the Northeast and Midwest. Not all your viewers are Texans or living in the sunbelt. What should we be wearing in the winter on our feet that isn't hideous? Winter is not an excuse not to be stylish.
The tailor's suit jacket pulls at the button and the sidevent does not fall cleanly.
I really want to see Kirby in a spalla camicia real neapolitan suit one day.
Just ordered a custom suit with very similar fabric, I hope it turns out just as nice as yours! 🤞🏼
Noice! 😎
Should’ve got tactical lining 😏
Kirby where can I talk to you personally? Have some questions about going bespoke
Kirby, as I’m in NYC every weekend you’ve first introduced me to Alan Flusser/Jonathan. Now I’m very intrigued at the possibility of commission a suit with Eric @ Sartoria Gallo for my wedding!
Nice What cloth, weight, looks like Loro Piana.
Kirby, where can I, an American in the Midwest, start with buying suits? Mens warehouse? Department stores? I don’t believe there are any bespoke options near me but I really want to start stepping up my wardrobe game.
Depending on where in the Midwest you live, start with J.H. And sons. They have stores in Omaha, Minneapolis, and Sioux Falls SD. They can do custom or high end RTW in suits, shirts, ties, shoes, the whole nine. Bespoke is a different story, but that’s a great place to start for quality and craftsmanship
Make your own
The idea of a custom suit is appealing but one's changing body shape makes the high price tag a bit painful to digest!
Unless one is lucky to have Kirby's symmetrical figure!
Most people get fatter, and you just let the suit out.
You Should Refer To "The 'Pelvis;' Area;" As "The Ilium Crestis;" That Is Most Accentuated; Profound; And Extremely Beautiful; And Beauty Defining Area Of A Male!!!! Including; Also; What I Perceive To Be The Case In Most Male Lions!!!!
Does anyone know what the price range is for such a suit? I'm sure someone will respond that "if you have to ask, you are not a customer for this kind of suit".
5 to 7k
WOOOW ?? NOPE !!! WOOOW !!! WOOOW !!! SÚPER WOOOWWW !!!
Chevrolet, zebra, honesty.
Great suit. Annoying the camera angle on Eric
I hope suspenders can become mainstream again.
So do I! Check out our Sovereign Grade braces online at KirbyAllison.com! 😁
Cuffs, cuffs, always cuffs.
Am goin to pay this much for a custom suit that the look on fit is like you went to JCpenny? Absolutely not
If you want Italian suits go to Italian tailor.
The picture in the back ground looks oddly hung.A group of smaller military colour full engravings in good frames would look better,The armoury in St James, Burlington arcade could help you.Thank you.
Send me some suggestions
@@jameswigington689 Email me a link to Kirbya at kirbyallison.com. I’m in London on Wednesday!
You could try Michael German Antiques, on Kensington Church Street.He has beautiful walking canes as well.The contact is Dominic...You will love the shop.Tell him I sent you! Have a great trip.James Wigington.
WHY with the mis-tied tie? It looks careless.
17:00
✨👌
the sleeves are a bit short and there is a collar gap, the back is not that clean, for a 5k suit that's unacceptable
he looks like adam schiff
Yuge insult
Kirby: we need a video on the "Prince Charles" kind of style. What do I mean? You are immaculate. Not a threat out of place. But, you've seen pictures of Prince Charles: patched shoes, patches clothing, frayed suit edges. It's "a look." That sort of preppy shabby sheik. It used to be big with big shots. My father used to tell me about bankers he knew with small holes in their clothes. Why? Their pipes would dump lit ash on them and burn through. Now, that is not you. That is not sartorial for you. But, you know it exists. Maybe a video on what that is, how you feel about it?
Stretching and shrinking parts of the pants for fit is very impressive.
I heard Paul Allens suit is better
Paying for "bespoke" suit published on a RUclips channel and telling the customer he will not be getting a bespoke suit. Baffling (I am referring to not allowing for an odd color stitch on button hole if they want them) he encourages unique small details that make it your own.. except things you want to make it your own 😂
I’m not following….
@@kirbyallison @30:47 he won't do an odd color on the button hole. I'll say that's probably the nicest looking cloth I've ever seen. That's exactly what I would like to wear. But if I wanted an odd button hole , which I would insist on because my style is 4 buttons total 3 buttoned and 1 undone and that odd unbuttoned would be the odd button hole. Might be a subtle odd color like maybe a chalk color that might match the pinstripe rather than the matching color of the base grey of the suit. But I would follow that style with different colors with different suit colors. A bit of a turn off to hear out of the gate, I'm not gonna do an odd button hole.
@@kirbyallison I've followed your journey for quite some time. Love the bespoke shoe videos especially when they have unintentional ASMR. The suits are awesome too. And like I said above this is like the perfect cloth color for my taste. Just didn't like hearing that about the button hole color lol
@@MStrong1313 as long as the cheque clears they do whatever you want....
I love bean pole dudes complaining about fit. Everything is made to fit you off the shelf XD.
Never trust a tailor who say's he only puts in two buttons because he's lazy
How about compare the quality of a Thailand Bespoke suit Vs. Italian. You will be surprised at the savings abd quality of the Thai craftsman. I had a wonderful suit made out of imported Italian fabric for $600 USD on my last trip. Surprisingly, it rivals my suit made by Roberto Revilla out of London!
Sorry but dull dull suit.
My opinion is that I'm not really interested in seeing you get your billionth bespoke suit. I'm trying to be kind Kirby. But I'm a 100 percent disabled United States Marine and I just can't relate nor afford that financial decision. The life of a servant...but still my life. A better video would be..."How to alter a 500 dollar suit to make it look, fit, and function like a 5,000 suit. Including the cuff buttons." Edit: I was born in Tennessee but currently live in Kiev Ukraine..a retired Rifleman. And I will forever be a servant to my people...
His sleeve length is far from good, too long for the shirt
A paper napkin as pocket square?? Is they a trend?
Wtf are you talking about. The jacket is sligthly too short in the sleeves. So they are adjusting it prior to the final fitting... 30:14
Hate to critique a man that’s primary topics are style, but your pants don’t match the fit of your jacket. Way to flared and jacket fitted. Just think it would look better matched in fit!
The quality of your suit is not in the same league as Savile Row's.
Nonsense!
Kirby is a poser, but I feel like he is an acceptable poser.
The wing spread collar of the dress shirt looks stupidly caricature. A pointed collar looks better in my opinion.
Ya shoulders are too sloping down . They are hanging down way too much ./ \ The suit would look much better if ya shoulders are more horizontal.
They really let kirby down
as i get older, and heavier, it's either go custom, or wind up with huge shouldered suits that don't fit. it really sucks how bad OTR menswear is now. it's all basically gone. macy's is horrible. the whole industry needs to go to inexpensive custom!
I've worked with suits for a couple of years ... If you'd like they sell something called a portly (executive) suit. It runs with more narrow shoulders, a wider mid-section and wider pants.
Good luck!
I wish I could dress this nicely. I live in rural Indiana. People look at me funny when I tuck in my shirt. If I wore a suit people wouldn't even talk to me lol.
I realize the working class never had the privilege of dressing as nice as the wealthy. But there was a time when most people took pride in what they wore, regardless.
I suppose there are too many other things vying for our attention and time and since it's not as much a cultural priority, why put in the effort? (It's possible to look nice even if you buy all your clothes from Goodwill)
You have a poor mans mentality
Any Lil Uzi Vert fans here?
You can't wear your tie that long. It's just not smart looking.
When ur pants cover ur neck it isn’t yeah..🤓