SBC 334 Stroker "Holder Boulder" Grinding the Lifter Galley, Mods Part 3.0
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- When building an engine, there is plenty of work you can do that don't cost much money, just a lot of time and elbow grease, and it is attention to detail that gives you a PERFECT build on a budget. This mod of grinding the lifter galley (Takes a LOT of time and work) takes all the flash out, especially any loose stuff that might drop in the block or oil pan. It makes the oil return much FASTER to the pan, and the Lifter Galley Tubes keep oil from dropping on the Camshaft and then on the crank, which causes aerodynamic Drag and horsepower reduction by sending the oil back to the ends of the block. www.headbytes.com or 615-212-7168
he is a good guy, one of the best I met in 52 years, he is just an Ashland city Hick Carp, that simple, and he calls his pistons and rods Clint black pistons, and Buzzard Eye rods (eagle rods). the part that gets him is his pricing is about 20 years old, and these blueprinted projects take TIME, I do one in about 90 Days, and assemble the engine over three times to confer, (4 corner mock up, Oiling system mods, recheck everything the machine shop does, then parts blueprinting. he don't get it
THANK YOU YANK!!! That is the name of this game. I talked to "Holder Boulder" this morning, and he is opting for the KB Light weight Piston Pins at 90 Grams, which would knock off about 50 plus Grams off the reciprocating bob weight, making his RPM Spin Up Speed a little better, which SMOOTH power delivery is all important with his outdrive. That has been the devil in this build-up.
I like your attention to even the smallest details.
I like the sound of that. Smoother idle and power come on smooth. Less shock to the out drive.
You can grind the area behind the rocker bosses for the tie bars to clear, use the 4cyl factory roller lifters , drill and tap the block for the factory spider, run a cam button like a solid roller , or you could drill and tap the front of the blocks for the retainer plate , find a hyd roller cam on eBay like the hot cam , your set up
Carburetor needed, the 416 heads are great to begin with just mod them for 1.90 and 1.60 valves with some level III or greater porting. Change cam. That should do it.
This is going to be a full ground up build, with several parts in detail discussion and MAYBE a engine dyno run. Then full video on the lake with the engine, RPM and gas mileage and HP after installation. Stay Tuned..
112. the outdrive sends water through the manifolds, and requires you have a wide LC, to keep water out of the cylinders. Engle cut us a great profile custom for Holders Boulder.
Really appreciate your videos man, keep'em coming
Nothing makes more of a difference than heads. They are the biggest restriction of the flow path.
I was going to, but need outweighed want here. Holder said "get what I need" but at the same time he cried every time I needed money to do it,. if you know what I mean. That being said, When you look at the fact he will NEVER go over 6000, has 9.8.1 compression, and valve spring pressure at 125@ Seat, and 310 over the nose, I decided to go with ARP Bolts. There was just not (in my opinion) a need for that, as the Line Hone would have been more, and the studs would have been more. Nuff said.
A retro fit hydraulic roller kit is about $1200. Worth every penny right after porting the snot out of the heads.
That will be nice and you will not need to clearance the rods. It will be easier for your guy to spin balance with the lighter pins.
Sounds like you may want a wider lobe center cam to ease the power in.
Removing weight off the reciprocating side will sure help. Which rods are you going to use?
Using Eagle SIR 5.7 stroker rods. I ordered KB tool steal pins today, they say there 118 grams, I don't know what they are stock, I am going to weigh them this week stock. I figure around 50 plus grams I will eliminate which adds strength, quickens RPM and will allow extended 6000 RPM use.
I am trying to keep the power/money cost down as his outdrive is rated at 5000 RPM, and or 300 HP. It is the alpha 1 outdrive, and the bomb is the Bravo outdrive (6000.00) which would let me have but a 434 CID in it. The objective is to let the power have a slow build up while letting the RPM come up to terms with the ability of the outdrive. This should fill the bill with what he is doing.
ya oughta convert it to hyd roller ,,, and use the 4 cyl hyd rollers that are dirt cheap ,, i found a marine hyd roller used on ebay that would be great for that
Hey buddy I'm building a 383 gm motor and I want to know what I should used. I want to get 500hp with 10_1
HE could afford it, his out drive could not afford it in trying to keep the Ft. Lbs. below 400. How much past that do you need to go when 400 is already pushing the goal badly?
Are you going to stud the mains?
sounds cool ,,, just thought it would be a good time if you could stand it
He don't need that much power at this point, as MPG is a part of this, he would have DIED over 600.00 worth of cam and lifters. He should be just under 400 at around 370 to 385, HOWEVER, he will have around 400 Ft. Lbs of torque, enough to PULL skiers right out of the water....
A friend just brought me his 81 Malibu to do some work on that seem's to have a re manufactured very early 305 with # V0412DDD on the deck pad just behind the alternator. He doesn't want to replace it with more cubic inches and want's Me to help him get significant performance gain's from it. Where should I start ? Head's & cam swap ? tuned port fuel injection from a Z28 ? What ? He's shooting for the Bang for your buck deal ..Any idea's the heads# 14014416
HYPER-YOU-TEK-TIK
Yea, I just think he likes for people to hear him complain. Hard to justify spending 5000.00 on an engine when you can get an Autozone engine for 1200.00, right?
See there is a little Jewmaican in all of us.