BMW 535i F10: 2 year ownership review
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- Опубликовано: 22 апр 2024
- My long-term (2+ years) review of a 2011 BMW 535i RWD equipped with the rare 6 speed manual transmission option. We'll go over the pros, cons, and running costs.
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Cons: 1:21
Pros: 10:39
Running Costs: 15:35
BMW Diagnostic Tool: 25:55 
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I still have the original battery in the key fob for my 2011 535. It is a daily driver with 182k miles.
He's back!
I still have my original battery and key fob but I did have to get new coil packs front shocks and struts which was very expensive because of the damper system also I had to replace the transfer case and transmission service I also had to replace a few parts in the cooling system but she drives like a dream! I change the oil every 4k miles!
The issue with BMW reliability is; they're not known for being particularly EXPENSIVE - relative to other German cars of similar value/performance (of course) But BMWs like to fail CATASTROPHICALLY when they DO fail, rod bearings is a cheap preventative repair when the alternative is a blown motor, among other things like older cars having SMG/Vanos issues, etc.
They're not horribly unreliable cars, but when they go boom, they go BOOM.
That's actually pretty cheap for an F10, based on what I've seen from running my own BMW shop and also working at a dealership. You've managed to avoid the high-dollar repairs, such as:
- Valvetronic failures, where if you're lucky it's just the actuator that fails, and if you're unlucky it's the whole eccentric shaft that fails. I've seen those take out an engine.
- Water pump/thermostat, they're both electric, kinda awful to replace, and quite expensive, even if you're using OEM parts.
- Valve cover PCV failing, which causes lean running conditions, excessive oil consumption, and sometimes a very loud and annoying whistling noise.
- High pressure fuel pump failure
- Coolant hoses. Once one of them fails, it more or less sets off a chain reaction where every single hose you touch starts to crumble and needs replacing... it adds up to $$$$ very quickly.
- Various module failures around the body, irritating to diagnose and $$$$ to fix.
Agreed, I'd consider myself lucky on this one so far. The valve cover, water pump/thermostat, and HPFP were replaced at the dealer prior to my ownership so that has bought me some time. Fingers crossed I don't have any valvetronic issues!
I just bought one wish me luck 😊
Good luck! I want one 😢
I’m going to be picking one up here soon, all I wanna say is where and how do you set up the oil pressure gauge because I love the look of that
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i have the 640I also a 2011 car and these N55 engines are sometimes shaky as you've described. Consumption on these are very good for a 3 litre petrol car with well over 300 hp.
Put the msport bumpers on if you’re gonna have those rims.
Excellent review 🎉!
I'm not American, so I don't think you guys have it, but I drive a manual 1 serie of the same year [f20], which uses a b38 1.5lt triple, your engine cut in half, making 135hp 220nm power figures as standard but can be stage one de-restricted to produce 190hp & 280nm which makes a world of a difference!
About the gearbox, yes, you do have to feel 2 notches before engaging a gear, as well as not being able to shift until you fully press the clutch, as there is a gate at the 'entrance' so to say of the paths leading to a gear. I guess it's a safety feature, but it is quirky, and I like it 🤪!
In regards to the starter button, the 1st press is to switch on the electrical system, and the second push is to start.
I'm saddened that the general population is getting lazy, and manufacturers are supporting that by phasing out manuals for auto's, and believe it or not, even CVT's 😒. I am glad to say I will never sell my 1 serie for as long as parts are available!
Research shows 2011 535i and all 528i f10 are quite problematic. 2012 - 14 are best, with 2014 and up being exceptional with their added sport suspension.
every bmw manual got same gear mechanism, same when i do with first gear or rear with my e91 it happens when you dont push it to end it pops out....had e90 and e87 it also happened same, change oil every 10k-15k dont kill it on rpm and it will serve you very well,,all my bmws i had i did over 300.000km on them+ without problems
I have a same car .. and some of your issues are easily fixable… doors unlock… in the idrive settings find the door menu and select unlock all doors and that will unlock them all instead of just driver door, lack of throttle response in that case you can easily retrofit sport mode switch that was option on some f10 manual transmission ,start stop switch … that can be coded to shut of idrive as soon as you open door and it will also unlock all doors , key issues battery might be because your key is to close to the car when you are at home and your car is in garage, key might be in constant communication with a car even when is locked , idle issues can be fixed easily by raising idle rpm by a value of 100 rpm , but you need bmw ista software and it can do it .. Many options can be just coded to make the car your own .
I'll look into those things, thanks for the info and comment! What idle speed do you think would be best? The scanner I showed in the video lets you adjust it.
In bmw software Ista that I used max rpm increase is 150 rpm over stock settings… I used 100 rpm and it idles much better now , so I would say 100 rpm is sweet spot …
@@eldin9117 thanks, I'll give that try.
All right, you've convinced me, I'm just going to keep my Subaru for now instead.
😂 be careful, Subarus aren't immune either!
@@PracticalEnthusiast no, but I did own an E60 5 series and this gave me flashbacks to all the things that go wrong that shouldn't. I miss the car but the planned obsolescence is just infuriating, so many things that break that just shouldn't. How hard is it to make a wheel that stays round?? My alternator is "leaking"???
@@soulshinobi it's true. There are so many ways they can fail that most cars couldn't even dream up. Lol.
@@PracticalEnthusiast they're still wonderful cars to drive, if I had the time and energy to wrench more it'd be a consideration.
My Acura key fob uses batteries about once every 5 years.
I got the 2012,,535i doors unlocked once I'm next to the car
But shouldn't everything turn off once you open the door? That's how it worked on our X5 and other push to start cars I've driven.
It's odd. Some things do turn off when you open the door, but the i-drive screen stays on for sure. Maybe it's a setting?
I have an F30 335i that's also manual (so same drivetrain, more or less) that I've owned for just under 5 years now and right now I've been hit with the dreaded valve-cover gasket replacement. It could be worse - I could be taking it to the dealership for service and I'd be out a couple g 😵💫
Easy work you got it
Do you think a typical e-throttle controller would address the unpredictable throttle response?
I don't think so since the one I installed didn't help.
At what shop did you do those repairs?
All done in my garage.
I want a hatch back version
I wish we got those in the US.
1 serie!!! I drive that, such a phenomenal car!
4 weeks for the battery!? That sounds excessive. Is that normal for the f10. Sounds way off right?
Yeah, pretty crazy. I might try putting the key in a faraday cage to see if that helps battery life.
I haven’t replaced my fob battery for my ‘15 535. I bought it in ‘18 pre owned certified from BMW dealer
Pushing the start/stop button twice might be a manual transmission thing. Not a thing on an auto.
Haven't watched the whole thing yet but just wanted to point out/mention two things. The first is that I think having to press the start/stop button twice to turn the car off entirely is just how it is when there is no ignition to stick the key fob in. If I use the 'keyless trick' for lack of a better name on my E90, I have to do the same thing. If the key is in, I press the button once which turns off the engine, and when I pop the key out the rest also turns off.
Second thing is that maybe the key needs to sit in the slot near the cupholders to charge? I know mine charges when it's in the ignition, but since the F10/F11 doesn't have that, maybe it goes in the aforementioned slot and could possibly recharge through that. Doesn't make much sense if the batteries just run out and you have to swap them out yourself.
My F30 you have to push twice to shut down the car
I just want a regular, old school key 😂
@@PracticalEnthusiast and an old school dip stick!!!! Great video Pete!!