Yes, I did enjoy the change of pace! It's refreshing to see someone work through a whole project like this while hearing what you're thinking. Nice work on this project, wish you had more woodworking projects I could watch.
Remember that you are laying the clear coat not painting it. Best technique would be to overload the brush and start in the middle and allow the coating to come off the brush as you very VERY slowly pull it the length of the project surface and then return to the original starting point and go the opposite direction. Outcome will be less brush marks and bubbles. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing. I'm sitting here waiting for a coat of Polycrylic to dry right now. Your comments as you were applying the coats made me smile. I too am learning withe each coat lol.
Thanks for this video. I used the rag, and also diluted the polycrylic 3-1 with water. That kept the air bubbles from being there (I had done 2 coats prior with needing to sand out the bubbles). 2nd coat, I just added more poly to what was left over so it was closer to 1/2 part water to 1 cup of poly. Still just as beautiful and super smooth. I plan on maybe 1 more coat. Again, Thanks for the video!!!
The end result looks good. After charging your foam brush (its all you need), start from the centre of the board farthest away from you and work the finish outward (left and right) and when the surface is covered, then hit your sides. Don't over brush because this stuff dries fast and that's how you leave brush marks. Start from the centre, then brush the finish all the way to the left, the lift your brush and recharge your brush and start at the centre again and brush all the way to the right. You should have a solid line of finish. Then on that same line, "tip off" with your brush (do not recharge this time) by starting lightly on one end and slowly make one pass all the way to the other end.. And that's it... Don't repeat any steps more than I explained. Like i said, you don't want to over brush. You want to apply (not flood.. But close... If that makes sense) and move on to the next section. Hope that helps
Thanks for the tip! Something very simple but I wouldn't have thought of it. I have some shelving projects coming up that I will try your technique. I have a question for you! When applying finish to edges, what can you do to keep drips from accumulating on the underside? I find that to be my biggest challenge. What are your best tips for applying finish to edges. Thanks for watching!
Don't use too much when applying finish. At the end of the application process, you can just carefully wipe the underside of your surface that you are finishing with a rag
I am working on my second project ever and I am so glad to see you having a noticeable difference between brushes. I didn't even think about the fact that I changed from foam to bristle brush between projects. I just thought I was getting worse at applying polycrylic. Thanks for making this "How to (or not to do)" video :)
Nice job, finish looks good. I'm no expert but I do have some practice with finishes, and I have a couple of suggestions for you. The first is really, really, minor but here it is: Pour about the amount of finish (or maybe a little less) you expect to use into a secondary container and use that for charging your brush. The reason is that when you dip your brush into the finish can multiple times you will transfer small amounts of stuff from the work piece into the finish can and by the time your can is half used you'll probably have enough contamination to make a difference. The second suggestion I think is much more important. You should always finish both sides of a piece wood. The principle is this: whatever you do to one side of a board also do it to the other. If you finish one side of a board and not the other moisture will migrate at uneven rates in and out of the wood in different parts of the board. This will cause warping and other bad things. If the second side won't be seen you don't have to make the finish pretty, but the second side needs finish. Lastly, something you can try to make the stain more even is to use a pre-finish wood conditioner. I have tried a couple of different brands with mixed results. As you say, "your mileage may vary," but it might be worth a try. Happy wood working!
Thanks for watching and the tips! I actually did the prefinish in an earlier video. Not sure how much it helped, but honestly, this is pine to begin with so probably shouldn't expect too much perfection. I know some folks will also use just water to "open the grain". The tips you've given above are also very very good. Thank you for those!
Your daughter has a very diligent Dad. Good for you. For me, the big lesson here is that Minwax Water Based Stain requires three coats. At least on pine. The end result is leagues better. That first coat was just dispiriting. The second coat wasn't much better. But the third coat looks very good. Oil based stain comes with no guarantee when it comes to pine, so why not try the easier media? Polycrylic is terrific. I've used it for years and put it on everything but the dog. After it is applied and you leave to let it dry... little drips and gobs will develop. I've found that gravity is usually involved. Great vid. I will now attempt a small project with these water based products. Thanks.
This video was immensely helpful. I have been working with polycrylic for months and just cannot find a way to make it not leave brush marks. So far the best I found was the foam brush however sanding and repeating was always a step I would never do because I always try to rush the finished product. I love the comment to take your time and pay attention. That is true. I always want it done right away and forget to slow down. I do prefer the foam brush as well. I was super pleased with how you showed the product up close in various light so we can see the transformation. I have never seen that before in a video. Thank you for taking the to make this video it was super helpful.
Great Video... Yesterday was the first time for me to use this same POLY (teaching an old dog, new tricks)... I love it!!! The oil based Poly, leave a yellowing effect... (not happy). Thank you for sharing this great video.
Great video and transparency... I love it and enjoy listening to you as my husband and I are also learning, ...... and the color you are going with is the same as we are.... except on some things I used fabric die, to make a Caribbean blue, I used one ounce navy, and 8 ounces teal.....then used the water based seal.... on another I used the blue you are using but an oil based stain.... our next project are end tables and sofa table, the semi farm look, with a mix of lake house as we are on Lake St Louis.
Great video thank you so much for sharing in most of the other videos I seen using that they say not to take your brush back and forth over the area with the grain in one stroke from one end to the other missed a spot leave it until you go back over it again love the tips about wiping down the drips from the sides from the bottom I myself am I beginner I plan on using this on a round piece of board and yes I'm really nervous about this I'm keeping them natural wood and using natural wood stain oil base first and I will be using the water-based polysporin to protect it thank you so much for sharing it's so nice that we can learn from each other have a great day God bless
Thanks that was relaxing to watch...it is much more stressful when you have a large area to cover evenly. The water based is great because it drys so fast. But it also sucks because it drys so fast lol...nothing like rushing to cover everything evenly when the spot you started in begins to dry. All you can do is keep pushing through and pray it turns out okay.
Well one thing you did right your mic ,great audio. You want to try a cool trick for a great sanding tip. Take a paper bag cut it fold it and hold it like sand paper and sand with that . You can do that in between coats and the finale sanding . The paper bag helps remover the rough feel, its like 2000 grit for free . 20 coats you'll go broke lol . With the grain? you should always sand with the grain .no matter what . Awesome video btw.
Yep, I like foam brushes too. I bought a box of 12 on Amazon. When I was using oil based poly I would just throw them out after 1 use. Now I use water based finishes so clean up with water is a breeze and I reuse.
A technique for putting on finishes (and probably even stains as well) to avoid or limit the amount of runs of product on the sides and bottoms of the project would be to work in long single strokes starting approx 1/4 inch from the end of the board and flow thru to the other end and run of the board and run in the reverse direction starting 1/4 from end and flowing off the other end.
This actually prevent you wiping the brush on the edge of the board and dragging the product off the brush causing a run. So starting just in from the end and flowing off the other end and then starting just in from the end and flow back off the other end actually does help prevent excess product being dragged off the brush and onto the end of the board. That was a tip I was givin way back in high school many years ago doing wood work as a subject and it's always been stuck in my head ever since.
Good video. The streaks from the first coat were from brushing it once it was tacky. I use 400 or 600 grit between every coat. But each persons technique is different.
Oh my goodness. Thank you for posting this! I was getting so aggravated with my 1st coat coming out looking so terribly, regardless if I used a roller, foam brush, or synthetic brush. So I kept wiping or sanding it away in an attempt to perfect it.. not smart, I know, but I'm used to using paints, not urethanes. Even with your edges not coming out how you hoped, your video gives me hope that I can get my cabinets coated in this stuff and it will look good! Again, thank you
Ditch the foam and bristle brushes! You can purchase cheap disposable painters pads which work much better than any style brush on water based finishes. HD has these the 2 1/2 by 5 inch or so disposable painters pads for about a buck. Load your pad and pull very slowly along the surface watching for dry spots and do not "brush" it backwards and forward. These painters pads hold considerable amount of finish product and when used with no downward pressure, the much larger surface area applies water based finishes streak free. I've used these for years on furniture and wood floor refinishing projects. Cleaning them is a breeze and these disposal pads can be used numerous times.
I see you used a foam brush to apply your 1st coat of poly. I used a bristle brush for 1st coat. Before i saw this video and i can see the foam brush gives a more consistent uniformity of finish . I used a 320 grit sand paper lightly went over my doors and cabinets . But i used Tack clock to wipe up the dust. Works extremely well.
Fast and thin is the name of the game with this product if you want super smooth results. I like a 2.5" angled Purdy brush. Do a small section very fast, almost violently brushing it thin onto your piece, feather the next section into the last, then use the weight of the brush with the grain for a final smooth out. The streaks and/or bubbles typically occur with this product when you either lay it on too thick, mess with it for too long, or don't use a smooth brush. Also, as compared to what is shown here, it's best to use a separate container to avoid compounding contamination.
Thanks for sharing! I'm working on some of my first projects now and about to apply top coat for the first time. I appreciate that you were new at this too. Also, any suggestions for how to keep dust and stuff off the top coat when working in a high humidity environment?
SLOW strokes, holding the brush at low angle always has the best results, for me at least, I am guilty of over stroking, (which leaves brush marks) and constantly have to remind myself that I am NOT using paint. lol, I also use progressively finer grits of paper in between coats starting with 220 and finishing between the last coat with 400 grit, and can usually get a glass like shine from polyurethane. I also use a natural bristle brush when using polyurethane.
At 12:17, I can see some bubbles at the bottom of the left piece. WB poly works best with long, slow strokes. When bubbles appear, you can pull a lot of them with some extra slow strokes, but it is easier to try and keep them from forming in the first place. BTW - Great video. I enjoyed it.
I started watching your videos because of the Raspberry Pi cluster. Now I'm finding all sorts of useful info :-) Thanks for making your videos! Very helpful.
I'm no finishing expert, but I've never had good luck with Minwax water based poly. General Finishes makes an awesome water based poly. Their High Performance Top Coat comes in a green can and it's worth the extra cost.
very helpful, thanks. i recommend to watch this at 2x speed. i imagine the final coat could use some buffing with something like 600 grit sandpaper (or much finer) for a super smooth glossy finish. cheers.
So, the one part I learnt early on is with Polycrylic, don’t be tempted to go back and add extra poly if there are parts you’ve missed. One swipe slowly from one side to the other - this eliminates the brush marks and the blotchiness. Stir the tin slowly !,! You don’t want to fill the poly with bubbles - this is also what happens when you use a sponge brush.
I bought some "Pyramids" that allow me to work on both sides of the board - tiny touchpoints so you can work both sides in one operation without fear of ruining your finish
hi there nice job, theres no better way to learn than to try it out. Try sanding with 400grit with orbital sander before your last coat, really fast sanding, for your final coat us a synthetic high end brush, will last you longer than those foam brushes, which are pretty good for finishing actually, some of the best results before upgrading to a spraygun, lastly for the edges, specifically endgrain, try sanding with a higher grit than what you sanded the rest of the surface, im no expert either but those are some things that have workedd for me.
Thanks for the great tips! I hadn't thought to try 400 on the last application of the finish, as I feared white streaks. The endgrain tip is very good. For my most recent job, I have started to get better at using a synthetic brush. The workpiece was so large that I found moving the foam brushes at a high rate resulted in more surface bubbles.
aside from spaying, water based poly is a super pain in the ass. You definitely want to back brush as little as possible. I only brush one direction when I do this. I found a brush that works really good for this. Its the Gramercy water based brush. its basically a high end synthetic shaving brush, but in a paint brush handle! I also thin my water based a tad. I know this video is old but to anyone watching, I also like to use 400 to 800 grit paper between coats. Anything under 400 is way too rough for me.
I like that blue color. Try starting in the middle and brush to the edges you wont leave runs on the edges as bad that way. It sounds crazy but don't back brush water based finish. Put it on and walk away no matter how bad you want to go in and touch it up lol
I have learned the not to touch it. By the time you notice something wrong in the water based finish, it's too late! Just let it dry, sand it down, and try to do better the next time. I have a piece that had 8 coats of finish on it because of this. However, based on the suggestion of someone else, I may now try hitting it with 400 sand paper and calling it good in the future. 3-4 coats of the water poly seem to be plenty of protection. The saddest part is that I never finished this project because this dresser was in the IKEA recall. I got a lot of compliments when I brought the stained/painted pieces in though!
If you gotta do it again try a poly rated for wood floors. Make sure you check if it's water or solvent base though. I'm not sure minwax makes a wb floor finish. I use pallmann products at work but for a dresser anything should do you fine. You will get a longer working time with a floor finish giving it time to flow and level better than the polycrylic
Hi it is a very good job you did there but i have a question because i cant find minwax in my region. how you can make a wood stain water base with colour how much colour you have to add to the stain base?
Water-based finishes, because they dry so fast, do not like being over-brushed. Set up a good light so that you can see the sheen as you apply the finish. Lay down a liberal coat and leave it alone so that it levels out. Let it dry longer between coats and start sanding with 320 grit, going to 440 grit or higher. Using 220 only if your coat left ridges, which happens while brushing when it's beginning to get tacky. If you like the finish that steel wool leaves, try bronze wool or the 3M Synthetic sanding pads, Grey, Maroon, and White.
How do you apply over a large area. Small areas are simple. Can you do a video of an 5x7 area? Because it's simple to do with small objects but larger areas I cannot get the same results.
I got this from General Finish's youtube channel and it worked great. Use a painters pad inside a women's nylon knee high or footie. Then start on one end and slowly spread it the full length to the other end. The pad will hold enough finish to do at least 2 full passes end to end on a 4x8' top. This way, you're not lifting up the pad in between passes and avoiding brush marks. Have a brush ready too to smooth out any overlap lines but once you get the pressure just right, you won't have any overlap lines. Such a time saver.
I'm amture , too , but I go with higher sanding paper , as to last coat ....300 ,400 sanding paper ,and if you like very smood finish ,syntetic car wax as very last coat
Whats the secret? I am not seeing any bubbles!!!! I'm trying everything that is being mentioned. How many times can I use the same foam brush (even if I keep it in a sealed bag. I am putting this on a 2 ft by 4 ft board and I have to work kind of quickly due to drying. Any thoughts??
It will leave lines in the poly, sure, but I always end with a coat of finish as the very last step. After the first 3-4 coats, I only sand if there are mistakes to correct. 400 may be good to truly "finish" with.
Nice video. The only thing that I would have done different is to put down a layer of newspaper or red contractor's paper on the workbench before starting. No need to get the bench involved in the project. #GoodJob
The blue is very sharp. good video, however thinning out water base poly with some water and removing the air from your brush will do wonders on the finish.
EdgeSport No half and half is way to much. You can do 3 or 4 to one ratio. As far as the foam I don't use foam. They leave to many bubbles in my opinion, although adding water (water base) or mineral spirits (oil based) helps a lot. I use either use a high density brush or use a cloth. The cloth believe it or not has worked very well for my last projects. I never had any bubbles with the thinning product and the cloth. I also never paint it on like what is in the video. I dip it and then go from halfway down the board and then go back from halfway what I just applied back to the other side. I use oil base only as well. The sanding in this video was on point. Although I would never run that much on the first thinned out coat. Being that thin it is unnecessary. I also wait 12- 24 hours after coats to see what I'm working with. Work clean and you'll be gold.
AND DONT OVER WORK IT!!! ALSO, PUT YOUR BRUSH EITHER REGULAR BRUSH OR SPONGE BRUSH IN A SEALED BAG BETWEEN COATS. IT STAYS WET AND YOU DONT HAVE TO WASH YOUR BRUSHES OUT OVER AND OVER AGAIN. 220 IS PRETTY ROUGH PAPER. SPONGE BRUSHES I HAVE FOUND ARE WAY BETTER FOR THIS APPLICATION. I WOULD RECOMMEND LIKE 400.
Sad to say.. but your application technique is completely wrong and generally the opposite of what you should do for water based sealers... Additionally, your not getting brush marks from a friggin foam roller dude... Water based sealers raise the wood grain. I appreciate the effort and time taken to explain, but this is pretty wrong.
@@thomasclarke8220 too many people go overboard on SAFETY. I've be instructed to cut plywood with mask, safety glasses, Face shield so the mask fogs up glasses and face shield so I can't see what I'm doing. I only need glasses
Just about the only video that gives an up-close shot between layers showing how each successive layer of poly fills in and flattens the work. thanks.
Agreed 100 %. Would give this video 10 thumbs ups if I could for the great in-between shots.
Searching all of youtube, you sir have the best video out there!! Thank You!
Yes, I did enjoy the change of pace! It's refreshing to see someone work through a whole project like this while hearing what you're thinking. Nice work on this project, wish you had more woodworking projects I could watch.
Remember that you are laying the clear coat not painting it. Best technique would be to overload the brush and start in the middle and allow the coating to come off the brush as you very VERY slowly pull it the length of the project surface and then return to the original starting point and go the opposite direction. Outcome will be less brush marks and bubbles. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing. I'm sitting here waiting for a coat of Polycrylic to dry right now. Your comments as you were applying the coats made me smile. I too am learning withe each coat lol.
Thanks for this video. I used the rag, and also diluted the polycrylic 3-1 with water. That kept the air bubbles from being there (I had done 2 coats prior with needing to sand out the bubbles). 2nd coat, I just added more poly to what was left over so it was closer to 1/2 part water to 1 cup of poly. Still just as beautiful and super smooth. I plan on maybe 1 more coat. Again, Thanks for the video!!!
Just the information I needed as I learn to stain & finish cabinets with Minwax water based stain & Polycrylic!
The end result looks good. After charging your foam brush (its all you need), start from the centre of the board farthest away from you and work the finish outward (left and right) and when the surface is covered, then hit your sides. Don't over brush because this stuff dries fast and that's how you leave brush marks. Start from the centre, then brush the finish all the way to the left, the lift your brush and recharge your brush and start at the centre again and brush all the way to the right. You should have a solid line of finish. Then on that same line, "tip off" with your brush (do not recharge this time) by starting lightly on one end and slowly make one pass all the way to the other end.. And that's it... Don't repeat any steps more than I explained. Like i said, you don't want to over brush. You want to apply (not flood.. But close... If that makes sense) and move on to the next section. Hope that helps
Thanks for the tip! Something very simple but I wouldn't have thought of it. I have some shelving projects coming up that I will try your technique.
I have a question for you! When applying finish to edges, what can you do to keep drips from accumulating on the underside? I find that to be my biggest challenge. What are your best tips for applying finish to edges. Thanks for watching!
Don't use too much when applying finish. At the end of the application process, you can just carefully wipe the underside of your surface that you are finishing with a rag
Marcus has the right of it. "over" brushing really just introduces more air bubbles and opportunities for error.
Good video sir. I've been fighting bristle brushes, definitely picking up foam brushes.
I am working on my second project ever and I am so glad to see you having a noticeable difference between brushes. I didn't even think about the fact that I changed from foam to bristle brush between projects. I just thought I was getting worse at applying polycrylic. Thanks for making this "How to (or not to do)" video :)
Great video! Lots of detail I needed to see about Polycrylic!
Nice job, finish looks good. I'm no expert but I do have some practice with finishes, and I have a couple of suggestions for you. The first is really, really, minor but here it is: Pour about the amount of finish (or maybe a little less) you expect to use into a secondary container and use that for charging your brush. The reason is that when you dip your brush into the finish can multiple times you will transfer small amounts of stuff from the work piece into the finish can and by the time your can is half used you'll probably have enough contamination to make a difference. The second suggestion I think is much more important. You should always finish both sides of a piece wood. The principle is this: whatever you do to one side of a board also do it to the other. If you finish one side of a board and not the other moisture will migrate at uneven rates in and out of the wood in different parts of the board. This will cause warping and other bad things. If the second side won't be seen you don't have to make the finish pretty, but the second side needs finish. Lastly, something you can try to make the stain more even is to use a pre-finish wood conditioner. I have tried a couple of different brands with mixed results. As you say, "your mileage may vary," but it might be worth a try. Happy wood working!
Thanks for watching and the tips! I actually did the prefinish in an earlier video. Not sure how much it helped, but honestly, this is pine to begin with so probably shouldn't expect too much perfection. I know some folks will also use just water to "open the grain". The tips you've given above are also very very good. Thank you for those!
I agree totally, I have contaminated my poly with the previous stain before, resulting in a dark colored poly... oops... :D
Your daughter has a very diligent Dad. Good for you.
For me, the big lesson here is that Minwax Water Based Stain requires three coats. At least on pine. The end result is leagues better. That first coat was just dispiriting. The second coat wasn't much better. But the third coat looks very good. Oil based stain comes with no guarantee when it comes to pine, so why not try the easier media?
Polycrylic is terrific. I've used it for years and put it on everything but the dog. After it is applied and you leave to let it dry... little drips and gobs will develop. I've found that gravity is usually involved.
Great vid. I will now attempt a small project with these water based products. Thanks.
This video was immensely helpful. I have been working with polycrylic for months and just cannot find a way to make it not leave brush marks. So far the best I found was the foam brush however sanding and repeating was always a step I would never do because I always try to rush the finished product. I love the comment to take your time and pay attention. That is true. I always want it done right away and forget to slow down. I do prefer the foam brush as well. I was super pleased with how you showed the product up close in various light so we can see the transformation. I have never seen that before in a video. Thank you for taking the to make this video it was super helpful.
Great Video...
Yesterday was the first time for me to use this same POLY
(teaching an old dog, new tricks)... I love it!!!
The oil based Poly, leave a yellowing effect... (not happy).
Thank you for sharing this great video.
Great video and transparency... I love it and enjoy listening to you as my husband and I are also learning, ...... and the color you are going with is the same as we are.... except on some things I used fabric die, to make a Caribbean blue, I used one ounce navy, and 8 ounces teal.....then used the water based seal.... on another I used the blue you are using but an oil based stain.... our next project are end tables and sofa table, the semi farm look, with a mix of lake house as we are on Lake St Louis.
Smart dude doing stuff for the first time! Keep it up. Thanks for the tips.
Great video thank you so much for sharing in most of the other videos I seen using that they say not to take your brush back and forth over the area with the grain in one stroke from one end to the other missed a spot leave it until you go back over it again love the tips about wiping down the drips from the sides from the bottom I myself am I beginner I plan on using this on a round piece of board and yes I'm really nervous about this I'm keeping them natural wood and using natural wood stain oil base first and I will be using the water-based polysporin to protect it thank you so much for sharing it's so nice that we can learn from each other have a great day God bless
Thanks that was relaxing to watch...it is much more stressful when you have a large area to cover evenly. The water based is great because it drys so fast. But it also sucks because it drys so fast lol...nothing like rushing to cover everything evenly when the spot you started in begins to dry. All you can do is keep pushing through and pray it turns out okay.
Great video. I am just like you, trying different things and learning as I go. Thanks for posting, really informative
Well one thing you did right your mic ,great audio. You want to try a cool trick for a great sanding tip. Take a paper bag cut it fold it and hold it like sand paper and sand with that . You can do that in between coats and the finale sanding . The paper bag helps remover the rough feel, its like 2000 grit for free . 20 coats you'll go broke lol . With the grain? you should always sand with the grain .no matter what . Awesome video btw.
Yep, I like foam brushes too. I bought a box of 12 on Amazon. When I was using oil based poly I would just throw them out after 1 use. Now I use water based finishes so clean up with water is a breeze and I reuse.
Great video. Thank you. Picked up some great tips for home improvement project. 👍🏽
Looks good friend I use clear matte on my Cornhole board
Wish I had seen this before poorly applying finish. Better than the dozen or so professional videos I saw.
This is better than a instructional video.. i learned a lot.. great job!
Glad I got to watch you make the mistakes so I didn’t have to. Great video! Thanks! (:
I've found that if you leave brush marks (dull streaks), just go back over them after it dries. Polyacrylic is very forgiving that way.
A technique for putting on finishes (and probably even stains as well) to avoid or limit the amount of runs of product on the sides and bottoms of the project would be to work in long single strokes starting approx 1/4 inch from the end of the board and flow thru to the other end and run of the board and run in the reverse direction starting 1/4 from end and flowing off the other end.
This actually prevent you wiping the brush on the edge of the board and dragging the product off the brush causing a run. So starting just in from the end and flowing off the other end and then starting just in from the end and flow back off the other end actually does help prevent excess product being dragged off the brush and onto the end of the board.
That was a tip I was givin way back in high school many years ago doing wood work as a subject and it's always been stuck in my head ever since.
Thank you, as this is something I constantly struggle with!
Good video. The streaks from the first coat were from brushing it once it was tacky. I use 400 or 600 grit between every coat. But each persons technique is different.
Oh my goodness. Thank you for posting this! I was getting so aggravated with my 1st coat coming out looking so terribly, regardless if I used a roller, foam brush, or synthetic brush. So I kept wiping or sanding it away in an attempt to perfect it.. not smart, I know, but I'm used to using paints, not urethanes. Even with your edges not coming out how you hoped, your video gives me hope that I can get my cabinets coated in this stuff and it will look good! Again, thank you
Ditch the foam and bristle brushes! You can purchase cheap disposable painters pads which work much better than any style brush on water based finishes. HD has these the 2 1/2 by 5 inch or so disposable painters pads for about a buck. Load your pad and pull very slowly along the surface watching for dry spots and do not "brush" it backwards and forward. These painters pads hold considerable amount of finish product and when used with no downward pressure, the much larger surface area applies water based finishes streak free. I've used these for years on furniture and wood floor refinishing projects. Cleaning them is a breeze and these disposal pads can be used numerous times.
Curious how you clean them? Also, how do you keep them from hardening between coats?
thanks! I appreciate your transparency.
Good job, love that blue stain. I will have to go back to your previous videos to find out what you used.
My favorite sanding block is the Time Shaver Preppin Weapon. It's about $20 but once you use it you'll love it.
I am ready to use the poly waterbased spray never used it b4 though going to do bottom first see how it comes out.
Great work and great video, love from Lebanon 🇱🇧
I see you used a foam brush to apply your 1st coat of poly. I used a bristle brush for 1st coat. Before i saw this video and i can see the foam brush gives a more consistent uniformity of finish . I used a 320 grit sand paper lightly went over my doors and cabinets . But i used Tack clock to wipe up the dust. Works extremely well.
Thank you for the good video. I liked it much better than watching the "pros" because you allowed for mistakes that we all have.
Thanks for the kind words! Someday I may recut these videos only to show the mistakes :)
Fast and thin is the name of the game with this product if you want super smooth results. I like a 2.5" angled Purdy brush. Do a small section very fast, almost violently brushing it thin onto your piece, feather the next section into the last, then use the weight of the brush with the grain for a final smooth out. The streaks and/or bubbles typically occur with this product when you either lay it on too thick, mess with it for too long, or don't use a smooth brush. Also, as compared to what is shown here, it's best to use a separate container to avoid compounding contamination.
I love the trial and error approach and the final result is beautiful. I'm a little partial to anything blue, though. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing! I'm working on some of my first projects now and about to apply top coat for the first time. I appreciate that you were new at this too. Also, any suggestions for how to keep dust and stuff off the top coat when working in a high humidity environment?
Can you please let me know how did you stain the plank you are applying coat. I liked the staining of it.
SLOW strokes, holding the brush at low angle always has the best results, for me at least, I am guilty of over stroking, (which leaves brush marks) and constantly have to remind myself that I am NOT using paint. lol, I also use progressively finer grits of paper in between coats starting with 220 and finishing between the last coat with 400 grit, and can usually get a glass like shine from polyurethane. I also use a natural bristle brush when using polyurethane.
TimnWendywoodworks
220 is probably the finest grit one would want under a clear coat. You'll get better adhesion/more for the clear to grab on to.
At 12:17, I can see some bubbles at the bottom of the left piece. WB poly works best with long, slow strokes. When bubbles appear, you can pull a lot of them with some extra slow strokes, but it is easier to try and keep them from forming in the first place. BTW - Great video. I enjoyed it.
I started watching your videos because of the Raspberry Pi cluster. Now I'm finding all sorts of useful info :-) Thanks for making your videos! Very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
I'm no finishing expert, but I've never had good luck with Minwax water based poly. General Finishes makes an awesome water based poly. Their High Performance Top Coat comes in a green can and it's worth the extra cost.
Good job. Thanks for posting.
Awesome video! It looks so smooth!!!
very helpful, thanks. i recommend to watch this at 2x speed. i imagine the final coat could use some buffing with something like 600 grit sandpaper (or much finer) for a super smooth glossy finish. cheers.
So, the one part I learnt early on is with Polycrylic, don’t be tempted to go back and add extra poly if there are parts you’ve missed. One swipe slowly from one side to the other - this eliminates the brush marks and the blotchiness. Stir the tin slowly !,! You don’t want to fill the poly with bubbles - this is also what happens when you use a sponge brush.
How would you go about applying this finish to both sides of the board? Bottom, let dry, top, let dry, repeat?
I bought some "Pyramids" that allow me to work on both sides of the board - tiny touchpoints so you can work both sides in one operation without fear of ruining your finish
You could apply the finish with a fad, like a French polish. You'll put on thinner and more even coats and prevent edge puddling
Thank you! This was very helpful.
hi there nice job, theres no better way to learn than to try it out. Try sanding with 400grit with orbital sander before your last coat, really fast sanding, for your final coat us a synthetic high end brush, will last you longer than those foam brushes, which are pretty good for finishing actually, some of the best results before upgrading to a spraygun, lastly for the edges, specifically endgrain, try sanding with a higher grit than what you sanded the rest of the surface, im no expert either but those are some things that have workedd for me.
Thanks for the great tips! I hadn't thought to try 400 on the last application of the finish, as I feared white streaks. The endgrain tip is very good. For my most recent job, I have started to get better at using a synthetic brush. The workpiece was so large that I found moving the foam brushes at a high rate resulted in more surface bubbles.
My friend, did you condition the wood first? Very thoughtful video too. Thank you.
i love Minwax Ultimate Floor Finish it rock's and n0 sent at all very fast dry time
Tanks really good video it help me a lot.....
aside from spaying, water based poly is a super pain in the ass. You definitely want to back brush as little as possible. I only brush one direction when I do this. I found a brush that works really good for this. Its the Gramercy water based brush. its basically a high end synthetic shaving brush, but in a paint brush handle! I also thin my water based a tad.
I know this video is old but to anyone watching, I also like to use 400 to 800 grit paper between coats. Anything under 400 is way too rough for me.
I like that blue color. Try starting in the middle and brush to the edges you wont leave runs on the edges as bad that way. It sounds crazy but don't back brush water based finish. Put it on and walk away no matter how bad you want to go in and touch it up lol
I have learned the not to touch it. By the time you notice something wrong in the water based finish, it's too late! Just let it dry, sand it down, and try to do better the next time. I have a piece that had 8 coats of finish on it because of this. However, based on the suggestion of someone else, I may now try hitting it with 400 sand paper and calling it good in the future. 3-4 coats of the water poly seem to be plenty of protection. The saddest part is that I never finished this project because this dresser was in the IKEA recall. I got a lot of compliments when I brought the stained/painted pieces in though!
If you gotta do it again try a poly rated for wood floors. Make sure you check if it's water or solvent base though. I'm not sure minwax makes a wb floor finish. I use pallmann products at work but for a dresser anything should do you fine. You will get a longer working time with a floor finish giving it time to flow and level better than the polycrylic
Good vid by the way
Hi it is a very good job you did there but i have a question because i cant find minwax in my region. how you can make a wood stain water base with colour how much colour you have to add to the stain base?
Thank you very much , this was very helpful being the fact I am a nubi!
I just bought a can of polycrylic. Your video was very helpful. 73 W5DN
Water-based finishes, because they dry so fast, do not like being over-brushed. Set up a good light so that you can see the sheen as you apply the finish. Lay down a liberal coat and leave it alone so that it levels out. Let it dry longer between coats and start sanding with 320 grit, going to 440 grit or higher. Using 220 only if your coat left ridges, which happens while brushing when it's beginning to get tacky. If you like the finish that steel wool leaves, try bronze wool or the 3M Synthetic sanding pads, Grey, Maroon, and White.
How do you apply over a large area. Small areas are simple. Can you do a video of an 5x7 area? Because it's simple to do with small objects but larger areas I cannot get the same results.
having same problem with a 4x8' table top.
I got this from General Finish's youtube channel and it worked great. Use a painters pad inside a women's nylon knee high or footie. Then start on one end and slowly spread it the full length to the other end. The pad will hold enough finish to do at least 2 full passes end to end on a 4x8' top. This way, you're not lifting up the pad in between passes and avoiding brush marks. Have a brush ready too to smooth out any overlap lines but once you get the pressure just right, you won't have any overlap lines. Such a time saver.
Thank you very helpful
I'm amture , too , but I go with higher sanding paper , as to last coat ....300 ,400 sanding paper ,and if you like very smood finish ,syntetic car wax as very last coat
Whats the secret? I am not seeing any bubbles!!!! I'm trying everything that is being mentioned. How many times can I use the same foam brush (even if I keep it in a sealed bag. I am putting this on a 2 ft by 4 ft board and I have to work kind of quickly due to drying. Any thoughts??
I reused them many times, but I washed them well and then rinsed VERY well and let them dry.
I find the 220 to leave lines. Am I pressing too hard? I had to go after the 220 with 400 grit to smooth it. Great vid.
It will leave lines in the poly, sure, but I always end with a coat of finish as the very last step. After the first 3-4 coats, I only sand if there are mistakes to correct. 400 may be good to truly "finish" with.
Are u goin to show the finished project?
That makes a lot of sense if it's the 3rd or 4th coat you can use 0000 steel wool. It's not gonna get through to the wood at that point.
Look good from here.
U did very good friend
Well done mate 👍
Good video
What Color is the stain Nice.
came out pretty good but use a brush , a good one , it worked for me :)
good job Sir
gracias por subir el video muy bueno
Thank you !
Nice video.
The only thing that I would have done different is to put down a layer of newspaper or red contractor's paper on the workbench before starting. No need to get the bench involved in the project. #GoodJob
+Brian Blues Thanks - the bench has a sacrificial top specifically for that purpose. Plus, the bench gains character with every project :)
KF7IJZ
That's another way to look at it... PERFECT for the "man cave"! LOL
ever went to a 400 and a finish with a 6000? the best
The blue is very sharp. good video, however thinning out water base poly with some water and removing the air from your brush will do wonders on the finish.
Hey MH - How do you remove air from the foam brush? How thin do you go with the poly? half-n-half?
EdgeSport No half and half is way to much. You can do 3 or 4 to one ratio. As far as the foam I don't use foam. They leave to many bubbles in my opinion, although adding water (water base) or mineral spirits (oil based) helps a lot. I use either use a high density brush or use a cloth. The cloth believe it or not has worked very well for my last projects. I never had any bubbles with the thinning product and the cloth. I also never paint it on like what is in the video. I dip it and then go from halfway down the board and then go back from halfway what I just applied back to the other side. I use oil base only as well. The sanding in this video was on point. Although I would never run that much on the first thinned out coat. Being that thin it is unnecessary. I also wait 12- 24 hours after coats to see what I'm working with. Work clean and you'll be gold.
So far so good using the foam brush and 1/3 ratio thinning. Thanks for your reply.
Awesome
You will def need more than 3 coats. I would say that every 2 thinned coats is close to one full coat. Give or take.
Hey man where did you buy that protective curtain in your background?
AND DONT OVER WORK IT!!! ALSO, PUT YOUR BRUSH EITHER REGULAR BRUSH OR SPONGE BRUSH IN A SEALED BAG BETWEEN COATS. IT STAYS WET AND YOU DONT HAVE TO WASH YOUR BRUSHES OUT OVER AND OVER AGAIN. 220 IS PRETTY ROUGH PAPER. SPONGE BRUSHES I HAVE FOUND ARE WAY BETTER FOR THIS APPLICATION. I WOULD RECOMMEND LIKE 400.
Looks factory finished to me
You should just show us 1st coat, 2nd coat, 3rd coat etc etcetc.
Too much talks
guy starts video about health & safety and looks like he spends his whole life in McDonalds.... 😅😅
Sad to say.. but your application technique is completely wrong and generally the opposite of what you should do for water based sealers... Additionally, your not getting brush marks from a friggin foam roller dude... Water based sealers raise the wood grain. I appreciate the effort and time taken to explain, but this is pretty wrong.
Water based wood finish and the first thing I hear is BS about SAFETY
Safety is BS? Hmmm...
@@thomasclarke8220 too many people go overboard on SAFETY. I've be instructed to cut plywood with mask, safety glasses, Face shield so the mask fogs up glasses and face shield so I can't see what I'm doing. I only need glasses
should put the mic at somewhere else the heavy breathing is kind of disturbing