Another great video Jay! My favorites are the Undersea Green & Jadeite. I love the unique granulation and colour separation when they dry. As you said I tend to mix my greens on a whole but the granulation sold me on these two!
I use cobalt green with burnt umber for a more natural landscape green. I adore serp. Green d.s. and use sap green for a pure form of green in washes. I learn so much from your swatching. Thank you for taking the time to do them for us. Kathryn
It's a beautiful range of greens, for sure. I regret that they use PY3 in so many of their blends - it _will_ fade over time, thereby tilting the hue. And I bet it's present in some of the Primateks, too. It's become public knowledge that a lot of those contain some standard pigments - despite their contents being undisclosed. :^/
I love the cascade green and serpentine “genuine”. Very beautiful when the colors separate. I do not understand why Daniel Smith didn’t use PG23 which is the actual pigment for terre verte. Maybe it’s harder to rewet in pans, but if you don’t use the actual pigment shouldn’t it be a hue? Thanks for sharing your videos, they are quite helpful in selecting which colors work or don’t work for the individual palette.
Schmincke does a very nice PG19! I mean, the hue is quite dull -- but the granulation can be very nice in mixes. I always find it odd there's no PY 153 in DS's line, especially since they use it in the Spring Green. I bought the Phthalo Yellow Green for a color wheel palette and it is a rare regret tube (although I did find several uses for it, surprisingly). I also have the phthalos, as well as the Sap Green, jadeite, serpentine and diopside. Many people, especially locally, love the Cascade Green mix -- it's excellent for evergreen foliage like we have lots of here. I haven't tried it but I have tried to mix it -- it's a bit of a mystery what PBr7 they might have used, but I got the best results with mixing PG 7 with Raw Sienna or Raw Umber.
That Green Apatite is beautiful. Wonder if it is lightfast? I prefer WN's Sap Green to DS, mainly because it's 2 pigments instead of 3. I don't care for either of the Green Golds by themselves, in mixes they can be nice though. I always have Perylene Green in my palette. Viridian is one of the few colors I use from M Graham. I love the brand, but it gives me a headache so I avoid it most of the time any more. TBH I'm not much of a green person so when I have convenience greens in my palette I tend to stick to the ones that can easily be mixed to make natural looking greens. Aside from Viridian, but it has other uses.
PRIMATEKs.... so you might want to look it up, but it seems that DS actually *does* use pigments in these... and just doesn't list it. : ( i mean do some digging/research to verify, but it's what i learned about recently from some other folks. (sidenote: for those that care about *lightfastness* just because something is Primatek and LFI for instance, doesn't mean it will not fade. sometimes other things aside from actual LIGHT can cause this such as a mineral not being stable over time, reacting with binder, humidity, or other environmental factors. Breaks my heart, but *sodalite* is one of these. for those curious, *kimcrick* has documented a fair number of the ones that can go weird in the tube, fade, react to enviro stuff, etc. it's just good to know if you are expecting permanence in your artwork.) i'm not being down on DS paints. i do love them. i wish all paint manufacturers would be more thorough and transparent about the TRUE permanence and fade resistance of colors/pigments and research, *so ARTISTS don't have to.* we should be able to rely on the LF and the opacity listing. and we can't. WE MUST BECOME PIGMENT LORDS. and frankly, not many people wanna.
I’m pretty sure Daniel Smith never admitted to other pigments being in their primateks. They just avoided the question. 🤣 They are very nice paints though even if a fair few of them aren’t very lightfast.
@@JayNathanWatercolor They did write this in a statement though, talking about the primatek paints (easy to find through Google): “There are some colors that, in our manufacturing process, are altered to assure the paint color is exactly as the tube before it. Not all mineral paint would be consistent without this step. Minerals are NOT consistent, it is their nature. This is a manufacturing process that is private and will not be shared."
It's interesting that Kim Crick shows a similar percentage of paints that fade in full sun (or for other reasons like prussian blue, malachite or sodalite) for all the manufacturers of artist grade paints which includes Schmincke, Sennelier, WN, etc, but only Daniel Smith gets called out on it. And I never saw anything on her website that showed all the Primateks fading, overall those paints have done well in sunlight tests (although many gemstones are not lightfast and jewelers recommend not leaving stones in the sun). And the tests that paint chemists do (using spectrometers and other tools ) aren't based on putting them in a window in full sun, they're based on museum conditions. Qor/Golden did a good video on that a few years ago. Jay's comment about a "fair few" number of DS colors not being lightfast is an exaggeration. On Kim Crick's site I counted 14 out of 260 DS colors (compared to 8 out of 99 for Sennelier, and 21 out of 205 for Schmincke), but I could have missed or misinterpreted a few as her site is more narrative than linear. BTW, I think Kim Crick has created an incredible resource, she's very fair in her assessments and I love her site, it's an invaluable resource for artists, as wonderful as Jane Blundell's. I just dislike seeing anonymous people on social media dissing small businesses unfairly, and Daniel Smith is a small business compared to Winsor & Newton/Colart, Schmincke, Holbein, etc, and has become RUclips punching bag of watercolor brands. I'm sure many commenters will jump on me and say they deserve all the hate, but I want those who use this brand to not have to feel bad for liking this high quality brand. Any artist quality watercolors are excellent if they do the job for your art. An archival quality UV matte varnish and/or UV glass can protect those few artist quality paints (of any brand) that might fade if placed in full sunlight, but I have trouble imagining an art lover doing that with any purchased fine art in any medium.
Jay Nathan Watercolor yeah that’s what I heard. And why people were pretty upset with them. I personally don’t like or trust people that do question dodging. And that’s not limited to art stuff. Anyhow, I love a lot of their Primateks and also some other colors in their regular line (both of which have paints I feel are mislabeled with regard to lightfastness.) still I think DS is more reliable with LF & labelling than a lot of other brands. What can ya do, right? Just a saying shame some of the dark, muted blues aren’t very lightfast. And why don’t any of the company seem to do a proper dupe for prussion blue and prussian green? It’s a great mystery. I also haven’t seen anyone make a video regarding colors that are close to it.
These are some really nice colors. Pthalo green (either BS or YS, don't have a strong preference) is a must in my palette for mixing. I also use sap green and perylene green as a base often, although I don't do much landscape yet. I think my favs here have to be green apatite and serpentine genuines, I love their complexity.
If I were to pick one green from this range, I'd go for Phthalo green for being versatile and emerald-ey. Otherwise, I'd mix my own greens from yellows and blues.
I am rather obsessed with these,and I thought I hated greens. Well I have more paints to add to my wishlist :D Edit to add: I also want Sap green but it's always sold out at my local art shop,it's driving me bonkers! I need to spy them more to get it.
@@JayNathanWatercolor yep! even the winsor&newton was all sold out, which is weird since it's not like watercolors are in high demand in my town. Thank you though!
Though I prefer to mix my own greens I do love the sap green, green gold and serpentine genuine. Their cobalt greens should be avoided due to the weak tint strength, plus they are hard to rewet.
I find Cascade and Undersea greens very overhyped. I see no use for Cascade in actual painting. Regarding Undersea it is dull and Aquarius Green from R. Szmal is faaar better/deeper.
I love greens!!
Another great video Jay! My favorites are the Undersea Green & Jadeite. I love the unique granulation and colour separation when they dry. As you said I tend to mix my greens on a whole but the granulation sold me on these two!
Perylene green is one of my all time favorite greens, if you mix with PY 129 you can get amazing olive shades.
I use cobalt green with burnt umber for a more natural landscape green. I adore serp. Green d.s. and use sap green for a pure form of green in washes. I learn so much from your swatching. Thank you for taking the time to do them for us. Kathryn
You're very welcome Kathryn. Thank you for watching and commenting 🙏
It's a beautiful range of greens, for sure. I regret that they use PY3 in so many of their blends - it _will_ fade over time, thereby tilting the hue. And I bet it's present in some of the Primateks, too. It's become public knowledge that a lot of those contain some standard pigments - despite their contents being undisclosed. :^/
All primateks and the perylene green. I love to use this the most in outdoor watercolor in Nature.
I love the cascade green and serpentine “genuine”. Very beautiful when the colors separate. I do not understand why Daniel Smith didn’t use PG23 which is the actual pigment for terre verte. Maybe it’s harder to rewet in pans, but if you don’t use the actual pigment shouldn’t it be a hue? Thanks for sharing your videos, they are quite helpful in selecting which colors work or don’t work for the individual palette.
You’re very welcome. I’m glad you find the videos useful ☺️🙏
Rare Green Earth is PG23
Love phthalo green YS and Hookers. They really appeal to me!
They are both very good but I’m crazy about the sap green 🤣
Great content, thanks.
Schmincke does a very nice PG19! I mean, the hue is quite dull -- but the granulation can be very nice in mixes. I always find it odd there's no PY 153 in DS's line, especially since they use it in the Spring Green. I bought the Phthalo Yellow Green for a color wheel palette and it is a rare regret tube (although I did find several uses for it, surprisingly). I also have the phthalos, as well as the Sap Green, jadeite, serpentine and diopside. Many people, especially locally, love the Cascade Green mix -- it's excellent for evergreen foliage like we have lots of here. I haven't tried it but I have tried to mix it -- it's a bit of a mystery what PBr7 they might have used, but I got the best results with mixing PG 7 with Raw Sienna or Raw Umber.
That Green Apatite is beautiful. Wonder if it is lightfast? I prefer WN's Sap Green to DS, mainly because it's 2 pigments instead of 3. I don't care for either of the Green Golds by themselves, in mixes they can be nice though. I always have Perylene Green in my palette. Viridian is one of the few colors I use from M Graham. I love the brand, but it gives me a headache so I avoid it most of the time any more. TBH I'm not much of a green person so when I have convenience greens in my palette I tend to stick to the ones that can easily be mixed to make natural looking greens. Aside from Viridian, but it has other uses.
I forgot about M Graham's viridian. Is it as sticky as all their other paints?
@@JayNathanWatercolor It is, but since I don't paint outside, it's not a problem for me.
PRIMATEKs.... so you might want to look it up, but it seems that DS actually *does* use pigments in these... and just doesn't list it. : ( i mean do some digging/research to verify, but it's what i learned about recently from some other folks. (sidenote: for those that care about *lightfastness* just because something is Primatek and LFI for instance, doesn't mean it will not fade.
sometimes other things aside from actual LIGHT can cause this such as a mineral not being stable over time, reacting with binder, humidity, or other environmental factors. Breaks my heart, but *sodalite* is one of these. for those curious, *kimcrick* has documented a fair number of the ones that can go weird in the tube, fade, react to enviro stuff, etc. it's just good to know if you are expecting permanence in your artwork.)
i'm not being down on DS paints. i do love them. i wish all paint manufacturers would be more thorough and transparent about the TRUE permanence and fade resistance of colors/pigments and research, *so ARTISTS don't have to.* we should be able to rely on the LF and the opacity listing. and we can't. WE MUST BECOME PIGMENT LORDS. and frankly, not many people wanna.
I’m pretty sure Daniel Smith never admitted to other pigments being in their primateks. They just avoided the question. 🤣 They are very nice paints though even if a fair few of them aren’t very lightfast.
@@JayNathanWatercolor They did write this in a statement though, talking about the primatek paints (easy to find through Google): “There are some colors that, in our manufacturing process, are altered to assure the paint color is exactly as the tube before it. Not all mineral paint would be consistent without this step. Minerals are NOT consistent, it is their nature. This is a manufacturing process that is private and will not be shared."
It's interesting that Kim Crick shows a similar percentage of paints that fade in full sun (or for other reasons like prussian blue, malachite or sodalite) for all the manufacturers of artist grade paints which includes Schmincke, Sennelier, WN, etc, but only Daniel Smith gets called out on it. And I never saw anything on her website that showed all the Primateks fading, overall those paints have done well in sunlight tests (although many gemstones are not lightfast and jewelers recommend not leaving stones in the sun). And the tests that paint chemists do (using spectrometers and other tools ) aren't based on putting them in a window in full sun, they're based on museum conditions. Qor/Golden did a good video on that a few years ago.
Jay's comment about a "fair few" number of DS colors not being lightfast is an exaggeration. On Kim Crick's site I counted 14 out of 260 DS colors (compared to 8 out of 99 for Sennelier, and 21 out of 205 for Schmincke), but I could have missed or misinterpreted a few as her site is more narrative than linear. BTW, I think Kim Crick has created an incredible resource, she's very fair in her assessments and I love her site, it's an invaluable resource for artists, as wonderful as Jane Blundell's. I just dislike seeing anonymous people on social media dissing small businesses unfairly, and Daniel Smith is a small business compared to Winsor & Newton/Colart, Schmincke, Holbein, etc, and has become RUclips punching bag of watercolor brands. I'm sure many commenters will jump on me and say they deserve all the hate, but I want those who use this brand to not have to feel bad for liking this high quality brand.
Any artist quality watercolors are excellent if they do the job for your art. An archival quality UV matte varnish and/or UV glass can protect those few artist quality paints (of any brand) that might fade if placed in full sunlight, but I have trouble imagining an art lover doing that with any purchased fine art in any medium.
Jay Nathan Watercolor yeah that’s what I heard. And why people were pretty upset with them. I personally don’t like or trust people that do question dodging. And that’s not limited to art stuff. Anyhow, I love a lot of their Primateks and also some other colors in their regular line (both of which have paints I feel are mislabeled with regard to lightfastness.) still I think DS is more reliable with LF & labelling than a lot of other brands. What can ya do, right? Just a saying shame some of the dark, muted blues aren’t very lightfast. And why don’t any of the company seem to do a proper dupe for prussion blue and prussian green? It’s a great mystery. I also haven’t seen anyone make a video regarding colors that are close to it.
These are some really nice colors. Pthalo green (either BS or YS, don't have a strong preference) is a must in my palette for mixing. I also use sap green and perylene green as a base often, although I don't do much landscape yet. I think my favs here have to be green apatite and serpentine genuines, I love their complexity.
I still avoid having a phthalo green in my palette. I’ve just never enjoyed using them. That might change again in the near future though.
If I were to pick one green from this range, I'd go for Phthalo green for being versatile and emerald-ey. Otherwise, I'd mix my own greens from yellows and blues.
I still can't get to grips with Phthalo green. I'm never satisfied with the mixes I get from it. More practice needed I think 🤣
I use and like Sap Green, Phthalo Green, Hookers Green, undersea green, and Green Gold though I like mixing my own green gold also.
The sap, hooker's and undersea greens are very nice. I'm still not sure if I like the green gold or not.
I am rather obsessed with these,and I thought I hated greens. Well I have more paints to add to my wishlist :D Edit to add: I also want Sap green but it's always sold out at my local art shop,it's driving me bonkers! I need to spy them more to get it.
I guess sap green is in high demand? Best of luck getting hold of some ☺️
@@JayNathanWatercolor yep! even the winsor&newton was all sold out, which is weird since it's not like watercolors are in high demand in my town. Thank you though!
this wall of green is beautiful 💚 (a bit disappointed in all the PY3 usages though.)
Haha thanks. Yes PY3 is in a fair few mixes.
Though I prefer to mix my own greens I do love the sap green, green gold and serpentine genuine. Their cobalt greens should be avoided due to the weak tint strength, plus they are hard to rewet.
I like green apatite and diopside best.
I rather like the Jadeite genuine and Serpentine guenuine
They’re both very 😊
I find Cascade and Undersea greens very overhyped. I see no use for Cascade in actual painting. Regarding Undersea it is dull and Aquarius Green from R. Szmal is faaar better/deeper.
I see what you mean about the cascade green. I should try swatching the undersea and aquarius greens next to eachother.