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@@jonasv369 yours is more advance if you have ac controls on your Android radio. Also, confirm which side you snipped. You snipped the aftermarket wire side, not the factory side?

@@richirich1 i did cut aftermarket side. But now i joind wires i cut, unplugged cambus. Ac, steering wheel buttons, working and no power draw.

@@TrevorM1992 no. The canbus controls the radio working with the lights, reverse, steering wheel switch etc.

@@richirich1 That makes no sense because when you buy an aftermarket stereo like a JVC or Alpine, they dont need a canbus.

@@TrevorM1992 this isn’t JVC, ALPINE 😂 This is China my guy 😂 🤷🏾‍♂️

This is about a parasitic draw of power when the care is completely turned off. What you are experiencing if the car is off but head unit is on and working is simply you have a bad battery with low voltage. If you leave the lights on white car off or listening to the radio and it draws the battery down then that’s just a bad battery. A good battery can hold charge at around 10.8-11.5 volts continuously without draining down If just sitting with the radio on. If the battery drains overnight with the car off then it could be you have something drawing the battery down and in that case this is the video for you

​@@richirich1 thanks for the help, my head unit has a fan for cooling, i tested all wires and after disconnecting the fan wire the parasitic draw disappeared, still not sure why the fan was drawing so much power but its solved.

That’s good to hear!

nah

@@QuizGameTVV yes saw it was constantly hot so I snipped it

Happy it helped! You’re welcome. Give a like and subscribe if you see fit.

Check your ground wire. Made sure your red and yellow wires line up with one another

No

Man, super happy it helped. Option to buy me a coffee is in the description if you still want to.

It shouldn’t reset anything by doing this. You have a memory wire and fuse that keeps a little power while care is off. You’ll have to check you power wires if not coming on with the key. Possibly the power wire is connected with another auxiliary wire like the cigarette lighter or something that comes on with the car

Glad it helped!! No more stress

Yes. It’s pretty much the same as the factory one that came on it.

I do not recall about the check engine, but I don’t believe it was on. It was just the oil light would stay on and go away when you press on the gas. Then you take your foot off and it would come back on. What’s is yours doing?

@@richirich1 mine was doing this exactly but my check engine light was on. I got the stem back in and the check engine hasn’t came back and the oil light went away, but now it’s only coming on when I’m at a complete stop

@@feliciaf19203 what’s only on at a complete stop. Oil light or check engine?

@@richirich1 the oil light

⁠then the piece I installed in this video isn’t there or installed properly. Or the oil pressure sensor is bad or car is low on oil.

Glad it helped. I was like what’s the worst that could happen! F**k it, Snip! I can always rewire it.

I’m going to give this ago. Just to clarify the red wire will spilt in to two routes basically before it goes into the canbus . One route supplying power for the yellow wire and one route for the red wire?

You best bet is to try eBay or the junkyard. I think you’ll be able to find it at one of those places

It wiggles a little but it snap into the top of the oil filter cap. Check to make sure it just isn’t sitting there inside the oil filter housing

@@richirich1 it’s sturdy in but I noticed the oil light wouldn’t come on at a 30 minute idle but came on after 1 minute of driving. Do u think it could be the oil pressure sender?

That probably oil pressure sensor

@@richirich1do you remember the part number for the oil pressure switch?

That’s what the canbus is for, you’ll have to program the buttons to it

@@richirich1 i tried that but nothing it doesnt even show car info

There should be 2, one that goes to the main harness and one that runs to the canbus. If you can’t test it with a test light to determine which is hot, just cut it with enough space that you can rewire it back together if it isn’t the correct wire. Trial and error

If it’s constantly on you need to located the the tire that’s always hot. Take a test light and check the blue, yellow and red wires and see which one is still hot when the car is off. If one lights up your test light then that’s the reason the unit doesn’t turn off. Then you can do what I did in the video by snipping the wire.

@@richirich1 will give it a go when I’m home will probably comment again if I’m needing more advice thanks

Yes it will. Changing the key lock cylinder doesn’t have anything to do with keyless entry.

@@richirich1 Ok, I'm going to try my best and do this on my own to save some money. Thank you for the video.

Glad it helped! Leave a Like. Thanks!

You’re welcome. It’s not too difficult. Give it a try. Good luck. Leave a Like on the video. Thx

@@richirich1 …the repair was a success! Thank you for all the helpful information found in your video!

It happens when you open the doors and no key is in? The display turns on without you starting the car?

@@richirich1 hello again bro.yes when i open the doors,display is turn on and the key isn't inside the car.

@@user-ls7sy3zg8d I believe you have a short in your wiring. The unit may need to be factory reset. It is possible the unit in not shutting down and going into sleep mode and staying on.

Hyyy. You solved this problem with your display? I have the same issue when i open the back doors the display is turn on. Can you help me please ?

Is it the yellow on the canbus or the main yellow wire? What type of car? Some cars especially American cars the radio will stay on until you open the drivers door. If it didn’t work, put it back together and use a test light to see which wire is still hot while the car is off and key is out. These Chinese aftermarket radios and wiring harness aren’t always precisely the same. Could be the red wire.

Hey how’s it going. I don’t know how new yours is or which model but these things can be finicky. I don’t believe they have an internal battery, as they do have the fuse of the back which is used to keep it active in “sleep mode” to hold some charge while the car is off to keep the memory. Also, you do have a constant source of power which is your ACC and power wire that feeds it power when the key is on and when it’s off usually your yellow and/or red wire. I believe either your car battery is low and not fully charged to 12-14v or there’s an issue with the radio. Might need to factory reset it and also pull it and check the wires make sure none are melted or loosely connected. It could be the radio is going bad, mine in my Tundra the radio portion just stopped working, I hardly listen to radio because I Bluetooth so I don’t worry about it.

Hello. Yes I do believe some did get made without a trunk lock. But be certain, squat and take a look under, sometimes they are covered by a flap. The software update should’ve been something they installed from the beginning. This was a simple fix. I sent the client to get their update when I completed the work.

@@richirich1 On mine, there is no lock cylinder on the truck. The button on the left console is the only way that I know how to open it. For earlier Kia's, such as my 2013 Soul, there is a recall to protect the ignition lock cylinder from tampering. I had mine done a week ago. When having this done, the key illumination ring has to be removed.

Amazon. a.co/d/0xGW1Z5

Thank you

Car overheating. However, found it was motor. Boiling and bubbling coolant in the reservoir was the sign.

Sua valvula estava travada fechada. Aconselho a fazer furos na valvula com umas brocas de 1/8

No it’s fairly simple. May have some difficulty getting to the screws in front near the windshield, middle by center post and mostly the rear. Should only take 20-30min to change.

You’re welcome! Hope it helped

Yes it did.

Man I’m happy it helped. Glad you stumbled upon the video because man I searched everywhere until I said F it and just started snipping & it worked.

@@richirich1 man I thought it helped but it didn’t 😭 I have 2 CAN decoders and I skipped yellow on both. Radio doesn’t turn on. If I keep one smipped however it comes on. Any ideas ?

I also am testing voltage on a few other wires as well. But small amounts such as 3.1 V or 1.5 V

I also tested 12 V off a white cord that has connector on it but nowhere to connect it

@@jakelong2544 use a simple test light and see which is hot when the key is on and when the key is off. I initially snipped the red and thought it would fix it but realized when the cut the key on the screen wouldn’t turn on, so the red to canbus wasn’t my hot like it should’ve been which led me to the yellow. I put my test like to it and found it was always hot even when the key was off, so that’s why I decided to snip it. Put my test light to all the wires even on the factory side. Have to test all the wires and make sure all the wires I your radio wiring harness line up because these things aren’t always accurately lined up coming from China, hence the reason I had to tap a wire (blue) into factory hot wire because the pins didn’t line like they should.

You’re welcome! Let us know the outcome.

Yeah over my time installing these things I’ve learned there are several different variations and mix ups of the wires, but still can’t beat the price.

What do you mean you connected it the other way around? You connected red to yellow?

@@jakelong2544 The red and yellow wire from the stock harness is reversed on the HU adapter harness.

2006

Yours will be different since it has an axle

I would start with checking the battery. See if it’s all associated with poor power. These cars need a fully charged battery or it will act pretty funky and have the car doing all types of crazy things. If you have a scan tool I would go that route to check the battery voltage while off and while running. Should be around 12-13 while off and 14 or a little higher while running. Another test is to crank it and while running take the positive battery head off & if it cuts off it’s the alternator. But also check your wiring to the starter and anything taken off around it that you may had knocked out of place or didn’t connect back. Hopefully you removed the battery head while changing the starter, because that shouldn’t happen after swapping that out. Last but not least It could be a failed electric water pump triggering the fan at start and coolant light, safety warning ⚠️ . They are a pain to change. Crazy tight spot to get to. 🤦🏿‍♂️ Hopefully all of this helps, gives you checklist to run down. I’m willing to bet it’s one of these issues. Feel free to follow back up

Thanks! Assuming it has the same canister oil filter housing type I believe it would be the same. If it has the external aluminum oil filter I would say it’s the possible the oil pressure sensor causing it.