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Man you are so much better off to wire them to an independent switch instead of backup lights. You don’t need them on every single time you backup. Probably 90% of the times, he’s daylight. Secondly, if they are wired to reverse lights, you have no extra light when you get out to hook up. You can’t leave the truck in reverse so they stay on while you work behind the truck

I watched this video bought the Vland version of those I loved the look but similar issue; my reverse/brake didn’t work on the driver side so I sent it back and didn’t order another pair. Been so hesitant on ordering another pair

I got the same tailgate assist for my 2015, and it still worked perfectly when I traded it in 2024.

Thank you. I have to say I've watched alot of videos and yours is the most thorough. Not knocking anyone else's but you really got alot of good shots of everything! Anyone looking to do this can get a good idea of the complexity. I'm going to be doing this job in the near distant future as my jiffy fittings on the driver side are leaking. Currently getting all my parts together. I went with Full Race manifolds/ adapters as I want to just knock out all out in one shot. I've got new jiffys to replace them all and the tubes. Also replacing the oil lines/ filters as well.

Absolutely beautiful truck I fucking love it. I got a blacked out 2010 f150. And you sold me on the graphics and tailgate assist.

Im over 160k miles on my 2015 2.7l ecoboost. I have had to replace the auto start/stop oil pump on the transmission. Along with a Vapor Purge Valve. And also some TPMS sensors. Also had rear window seal start to leak so just used some autoglass silicone to seal it up better. I have put about 7k miles on it. Its been a good truck for me for what i need. Its had regular maintenance from old owners however I would like to get around to changing the spark plugs and changing the rear diff fluid. Unfortunately my oil pan gasket leaks so the oil pan has drops of oil and when it sits . Will keep up with regular maintenance for now 👍

Did you change the filter on line to the turbo? Ive seen other videos they get clogged up over time

Where did you get decals. Can you be specific. Great truck.

It’s been a year but wondering what oil was used and how much

I used both, working as heavy duty tech, and Milwaukee if you use it daily a lot it burns the thermal fuse inside and stop working , I guess if you use it and turn it off so it cools down then maybe it is fine plus goes through batteries as crazy. Snap on is not bad, I like the case with everything needed in there, from all of the butane soldering irons I have used before that one the best so far, also goes through butane quickly especially if you keep it on all the time which I do and just take butane can with me it also smaller than milwaukee and easier to maneuver in tight spaces. I also tend to use good old weller pistol grip corded iron when there is lots of wire soldering

Great video. Excellent camera views, great audio. 💯💯💯💯

Did you notice more of a rumble, or resonance inside the cab when driving around? I installed the stage 2 (with dry filters) a couple days ago and mine seems to somewhat drone inside the cab now. Is that normal?

What running boards are those? Nfab? I have been searching for some wheel to wheel running boards/steps for my 150.

Blows my mind The didn't add a key hole. I would love to have a Manuel lock and not the electric... Great video

Is it just the plug it did you have to do anything else? I just bought my 2020 3.5 and know nothing about this stuff. Thanks in advance sir.

Love your truck. Quick questioning where did you get those side steps? Been wanting to replace my running board.

These fake ones kill me. I installed the Jogon (real) cf bits from Amazon and they are stellar.

Which AFE intake? Bc I’m trying to decide which one to get for mine. Any issues with it?

Shouldnt you be letting the tool and abrasives to the work instead of pushing down and making the tool "bog down."?

Changed one of mine out yesterday. I have a 2006 Dodge Charger RT. It has 2 on the driver side and 2 on the passenger side behind the glove compartment. The 2 on the passenger side are extremely close to each other.

How were you able to determine the passenger side blend door was not the problem? My passenger side blows hot, and driver side blows cold.

are both of the actuators the same part? or are they different

Do they work with the backup sensors ?

Might be great for camping up high enough and no bugs below light.

Tail lights??

Use glue gun or superglue!

I have a 2007 and changing that didnt fix it. The brain is in the wiper motor itself. I knew changing that wouldnt fix it on mine when i had the switch removed and it started ghosting while disconnected. yours may be different. Just weighing in on my 2007.

Greta Thundberg: How dare you?!?

I’ve been wondering how they were installed.

Looking at a 2018 with 115k on it with the 5.0 already have a 2020 with the 2.7 but want a 5.0 also

They are legal ?

I have ‘21 Limited with Smoked quartz paint and it shows dirt so bad! I know a lot of people have a hate for it but at 63 years old with a bad back I love my power tail gate and power running boards. The blackout dark colour scheme looks terrific, nice job. I had trouble finding decent floor mats for a reasonable price and got lucky and stumbled across a really nice good quality set that’s thick and looks custom made to fit at Princess Auto, our Canadian version of Harbor Freight.

Before buying any vehicle in the rust belt check out the location of the nearest junkyard.

😂 “i tried to apply more pressure to make it shut off”

Very helpful but too much unnecessary talking.

Thanks for the review - wish you would have tried a stiffer wheel

I also have a 2016 F150 with 83k miles..I'm getting different opinions on how often to change the fluid on the front and rear differential. I bought the truck used, but cannot confirm if it's ever been changed before. Any thoughts?

Could you give a list of all the parts you bought in the description? Thanks for the video man

My 2019 F150 XL just turned 173k miles. Has been serviced regularly since day one. No issues at all. Runs and drives like new. 3.3 v6, 6 speed auto.

My car blows cold on driver side no ac on passenger side so which ones do i change thanks

I don't know the number but I know its a two year warrenty

If buying a used truck save your self headaches and money and just buy a toyota tundra. I have tundra 5.7 work truck pulls trailer every day over 400k on it now only thing to ever give me issues is 1 right from wheel bearing and 2 o2 sensors thats it now my 18 f150 3.5 ecoboost with 142k never used to pull a trailer or anything has given me all sorts of issues over the years and will be getting rid of it soon. Tired of dumping money in it

I bought a 2014 with 67k miles and im loving it but when you buy any used vehicle its not a matter of if something will go wrong its when.

Put a proper dipstick on vehicles for Christ sake.

Why does Milwaukee recommend only 2 inch cut off wheels. I see you using a 3 inch no problem.

Why are you concerned about the vibration

Well testing under no load is not really a test.. You require 10-20 times less voltage to create a spark than in compressed air in the cylinder.. + the fuel which doesnt make it any better. Your iridium electrodes are worn away half way. If they wear completely the lass little peice just fals off. (And if your Lucky out of exhaust walve).. Higher spark plug gap requires higher voltage from the ignition coil putting much more wear on it ect... If you took put the plugs I hope you at least gapped them to oem spec.

So relaxing how this guy is just quick and to the point and doesnt drag out the video

Sorry No disrespect intended im retired now but i used air powered tools every day all day long all my work life very few air powered grinders are able to beat dotco expensive yes but worth every penny in the long haul👍

This tool is garbage