- Видео 40
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JohnnyFlyer
Добавлен 23 ноя 2006
I do vintage American Flyer train and accessory services and upgrades. Please take a look at my work!
New Aquisitions!
Even though I had to take a year off from working on my trains, I have picked up some really neat new locomotives while I was gone. Here are a few of my new and updated trains!
Просмотров: 931
Видео
The Return of Johnny Flyer!
Просмотров 3004 года назад
Hey folks! I'm so happy to be back and sharing more videos with you! I've got some new acquisitions and an upcoming move to talk about, and some great opportunities for shared learning! Please like and subscribe for more upcoming content!
American Flyer Stockyard Restoration Part 1
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.5 лет назад
Hey Folks! Got started on a deceptively easy project here, and ended up with a bit of mystery. Come check it out!
American Flyer K325 DC Engine and E-Unit Upgrade
Просмотров 8 тыс.5 лет назад
Continuing on with my dabbling in non-standard Flyer repairs and updates, this is my first DC can engine conversion. In short, I'd definitely reccomend this for anyone wanting to make the plunge. It was a very user-friendly and time-friendly project. Enjoy!
DIY Silicone Molding For American Flyer Cows Part II
Просмотров 3415 лет назад
Part II of the American Flyer Stockyard Cow project, here we start to see how the casting process worked out for our cows.
DIY Silicone Molding for American Flyer Cows Part I
Просмотров 3405 лет назад
I used some of the techniques I'd learned from reading Tom Barker's book, some internet research, and a little of my own experience to cast some new cows for my Stockyard using cheap and easy to find materials. I hope this is helpful to you!
970 Seaboard Brakeman Car Complete
Просмотров 9855 лет назад
Finished off the work on the 970 car, and put it all back together using the methods described in Tom Barker's repair manuals. I think you'll agree the results are fantastic!
Christmas Train Layout 3
Просмотров 4816 лет назад
Final Update to the Christmas train table, had a great time making this thing, and I hope you enjoy watching it come together!
Christmas Train Layout 2
Просмотров 3406 лет назад
Another Update on the Christmas Train Layout I designed and built for some friends. This one covers a few of the cosmetic things I put together and gives an explanation on why I went the direction I did on certain materials and design.
970 Seaboard Brakeman Car
Просмотров 7586 лет назад
I continued to feed my Seaboard obession and did a cosmetic restoration of a 970 Brakeman Car I acquired, and I added a little bonus project as well! Enjoy!
Christmas Train Layout
Просмотров 8096 лет назад
I am building a train layout for some dear friends of ours for Christmas. I'm going to be using some unorthodox methods for building this layout because I want to save some weight and keep the table modular for storage. If you have suggestions on how I might improve this design I'm interested in hearing your thoughts!
American Flyer 342 Final Update
Просмотров 4376 лет назад
I finished off the clean up and maintenance of the 342 switcher. This train was really well taken care of by the original owner and short of the usual clean up issues, it was ready to hop right back on the track. A nice coating of CRC 2-26 really brought the luster out and gave it a "like new" appearance. What a treat to work on this great locomotive!
American Flyer 342
Просмотров 9916 лет назад
A really good looking 342 Switcher that needs just a little TLC to get back in operational shape. I was really excited and nervous to get to work on this one, because it's a litle different from the other American Flyer trains I've worked on. Enjoy!
American Flyer 336 UP Homecoming!
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.6 лет назад
The 336 has made it back home!! Dave from Daves AFTrains worked his magic on this gorgeous engine and it is finally back home and on the layout! The video of his restoration can be found here: ruclips.net/video/46LNtp6RyeQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/TkEd-f1EMSM/видео.html ruclips.net/video/cpn57BYB7jE/видео.html The UP video I reference can be found here: ruclips.net/video/guuvdJhiRSE/видео.h...
American Flyer Log Loader 751 Part II
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.6 лет назад
Finished up the Log Loader and it is now ready for the layout, I tried to include a few lessons and tips I've learned through scale modeling and restoring these trains. I hope these come in handy as you work on your American Flyer trains!
1950 American Flyer 370 Diesel FINAL UPDATE!
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.6 лет назад
1950 American Flyer 370 Diesel FINAL UPDATE!
Are You Better At Train Maintenance Than A 3rd Grader?
Просмотров 2896 лет назад
Are You Better At Train Maintenance Than A 3rd Grader?
American Flyer Prewar O-Gauge Engine
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.6 лет назад
American Flyer Prewar O-Gauge Engine
American Flyer Model 312 Final Update and Bonus Video!
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.6 лет назад
American Flyer Model 312 Final Update and Bonus Video!
American Flyer 312 Maintenance Final Update
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.6 лет назад
American Flyer 312 Maintenance Final Update
American Flyer 312 Maintenance and Upkeep
Просмотров 8 тыс.6 лет назад
American Flyer 312 Maintenance and Upkeep
Thanks to your video and SNS Trains I got my dads old K325 running! The old steam trains just sound great and look great with the working smoke units.
I went to Joann Fabrics and bought A square foot of velvet and it works real good. I found that the paintmaterial was just to fat and the brakeman gets stuck in the channel
Marx guy here, I just finished shoehorning in a Marx D/R motor into a Flyer prewar 1939 #420 shell. She appears externally stock but inside a lot of cutting and shaving was required. I must say this project tried my patience. SHOEE!
what pad material should I purchase to replace my walking brakeman pad?
I have a 312 american flyer pennsylvania. Unsure it the thing works, the wiring looka shot. How much would new wiring cost?
I have a 343 that has a wire that broke off the front light's soldering joint. I need to replace that wire so it can reach from the smoke unit to the light. Can you tell me what gauge that wire should be in your estimation?
Just bought one of these so thanks for the repair info.
Did you ever get it working?
John , why would I put a new and expensive digital reverse unit and hve to deal with the on and off continually?. I just installed new magnetic fiels that I bought from Franintrains Laboratry and my 325 runs like all of my other D.C. locomotives, no A.C. forward off and reverse to deal with. If I choose, I will be able to install a Dallie Sound system and it will operate as intended.
Never owned any Gilbert 336 that dirty and beat up. Everything I have was bought in Excellent to Like New condition. My 21139 was found mint in wrapper with four chrome passenger cars all in original boxes too in 1968 at the Knott's Berry Farm train store. Probably long gone years ago. Those were the fun times back then. People today have no idea what the real old Knott's Ghost town was like.
Added a 4 amp rectifier to quiet log lift.
will it run prototypical speeds?
Not really, these are toys. So, as nice as they look, they don’t really perform well at scale speed. Having said that, there are some folks out there that have rigged these with modern parts to get a more realistic performance.
So why is there a K in front of the 325
That’s a great question Gary, I have to defer to one of the experts that replied below. Unfortunately, I don’t know.
That locomotive is built like a tank! that's a beautiful piece of workmanship and i like it!
I love installing these double reduction motors ( inplace of single reduction flyer motors ) as they offer am flyer super motor performance, Getting the three point alignment correct can be tricky. I install the motor but only snug not tighten the set screws, I try to let the motor find its comfortable alignment place. This can take some time . I then apply a dab to each set screw of epoxy.and the mounting ears outside as well ( clean surfaces and give the expoxy a week to 10 days to cure properly). It seems to work although align boring all three bearings would be preferable but extremely difficult. You will find that single axle and sometimes double pulmor wheels will help withlong passanger trains ( CASG )
Wow, I thought my 370 was in bad shape. looks like yours turned out very nicely. Did you ever put a knuckle coupler on it? Mine has the link bar but the link couplers tend to pop off going around curves.
I like your video's but they never show how to service or repair these locomotives. They are about what you have all ready done NOT how to actually Repair clean or restore. But thanks anyway.
Please post a parts list.
I had heard that their GP7 used the same truck side frames as their PA. But these look different. What's up with this? Thanks.
Both the PA and GP7 use the same 4 wheel trucks. The difference is the GP7 has a molded in spring in the center, the PA has a fake middle axle.
nice job restoring your american flyer log loader! pretty cool! i think all the lionel prewar, postwar and mpc engines, cars and lionel accessories can be restored by krylon spray paint!
Thank you! The paints don’t match exactly, but they’re close enough for me!
I don't think that's a 1950 for what I ve seen and read they didn't come with pull-mor tires and pick up shoes it's hard to.tell in the video also the bar is missing in the front and back which a link coupler attaches to . Just my opinion could be wrong. Al
I tried what you said I think that was it so on my bench I hooked up black wire to power and yellow to accceries wheel went around and stopped but if I power the red wire it will keep going. And I noticed your soliniad location is different from mine is on bottom . Al
Awesome! Glad that isolated the problem for you!
Nice work i have a question went to use mine pressed second button and it stay on any ideas. Why
Hey Albert, I’d say check two things. First, make sure you don’t have a sticky button on the activator. Second, take a look at the electric connections there should be activators that trip when you hit the button, and another that will trip once the wheel makes the right number of revolutions.
Thanks for sharing. What track is that running on?
It’s a combination of new Lionel track and the old classic AF track.
The traction rings are unnecessary, especially on a die cast locomotive. They just dirty the track.
Mostly agree with you there. Although there are a few versions that you absolutely cannot run the train without them.
A new factory reissue wire harness for the rear and the same for the Choo Choo unit. Just like Gilbert originals are the only way. Rebuilding the drivers to original condition also. Naturally I don't like knuckle coupler conversions. I can run 16 car all link coupler train with my 312 SIT K5, and nothing comes uncoupled. Adjustment is everything. Most people have no idea how to do that. Link coupler pin has to be parallel with axles. Link coupler trains look real because of close coupling like the prototype cars were. Knuckle converted cars are too far apart and derail easily. They look totally unrealistic too. I changed all my converted cars back to link many years ago. I only had about 8 of them I bought cheap. I have about 40 link coupler cars and they are all great. I clean all that white stuff off with pure Mineral oil from grocery store. Mineral spirits are not the same thing. If I need a repair done by you, how would I get in touch.
I live about 5 miles from the birthplace of that beautiful engine. Things rust like crazy here as well. BTW, I have the prewar version of this engine. It will outpace anything that lionel made, slower, smoother, and stronger.
You just can't beat American Flyer for smoke and sounds.
What about changing the pads on the undersides of the cows?
Hi Chris! Do you mean with material other than what I use in the video?
Came across some info and sharing with you. I have not tried but everything seems to make sense. “You can replace them with new pad material cut from a Shur-Line paint replacement pad which you can buy at just about any hardware store. I bought mine at ACE Hardware. The black cow pads face left at about a 30 degree angle and the brown face right at a 30 degree angle. The pad material has a grain to it so make sure the grain is facing to the rear first then angle it. Cow's feet - - just like Barker says, Shur-Line paint pad material with plastic backing cut to size. Barker recommends 15-30 degrees off-center to the grain. I tried 18.75 degrees, 22.5, and others, and ended up with 24 degrees providing the correct amount of lateral and forward thrust. With too low an angle the cows go too straight, with too high an angle they side-shuffle too much and fail to climb the ramp with much vigor. Train the fibers by gently pressing the cow down on your palm and moving it in the desired off-center direction. That helps the fibers to lie properly.”
Great video. I just picked one up. It does buzz but the adjustment rod is jammed and the brakeman is awol. Thanks for the tips on taking the shell off
Spare parts are out there to be found! Good luck!
It's very great that many people that I know are going to upgrade it. I'm going to classical order engines and brand new engine and the first time ever that I'm going to put a fresh technology that many older trains that are for the 1950s or 60s or the 30s and 20s gotta I make if I have people love it that are of classical train that they wanted to stay where it is the classical or to upgrade is that if something is brand new and specially the many people at that I leave the classical to our side but is going to get upgraded from the inside so I hope that many of you that if you have American Flyer train right now. It is so easy that a of a functional it is like this one and including data all I got to say this that different parts that are of many of for the bigger size medium and small order that are getting one of those remote control that are you don't need like those what are those boxes right there that you can push the power forward or slower it but there is a Wi-Fi right now. A few other questions connect to your control or to your cell phone some of them data of you could get parts for the internet and some of them apart that you can get it in storage other smaller stores but this is to everyone that are well too if you have American Flyer or you have a different names of model that's your choice
Open frame three pole motors are by their nature noisey to some degree because they are ac motors.Don't compare them to today's dc can motors that run quietly. Those canmotors run on rectified and filtered dc and by nature are quiet in operation and in my not so humble opinion are superior to the AC motors used in earlier toy trains,today's technology has made it so.Three cheers for technology!!
You don't like caboose's?
Well, it’s not my favorite car in the collection! 😁
I have a film of a real Hudson just like Gilbert's. The Airchime whistle sounds exactly like the one in my 326 AF Hudson.
Nice engine but since I can run link coupler without any problem, I would not want to change it to KC. All my link coupler engines and cars do not come uncoupled and look much better than KC cars since the spacing is realistic. KC cars look great too but only when made that way. Converted link cars to KC look really bad and derail on curves since the tinplate trucks are too light for Pul Mor engines. They jerk the cars off the tracks on curves. Too much traction. You notice how link coupler engines spin on take off? That way the cars will not be yanked off the track. Keep that engine original and it will pull more LC cars than KC cars any day of the week. Not many operators know how to àdjust liñk couplers correctly. Make sure the pin is parelle with the axle to start with, then adjust height.
Hey Johnny, thanks for the help. Just got a similar loader and it wouldn’t run. You saying about the gear box made me think. I checked it out and sure enough, more grease is NOT better. Completely packed with heavy wheel bearing type grease. I took the gear box completely apart and the main gear that’s drops down to spin the wheel was frozen in place. Couldn’t turn it with pliers!! A bunch of brake cleaner and elbow grease and it works great!! Thanks for the advice!!
So glad to hear this was helpful! It seems like the “maintenance” plan for many in the 1950’s and 1960’s was to pack as much grease as possible into your loco or accessory! Keep ‘em running!
Got my 336 at a thrift store several years ago and consider it a stroke of pure luck.
Your exactly right, that horn hook was an AF disaster. How can you make such beautiful locomotives with such an unrealistic coupler
Wow you really know how to fix smoke unit. I have a 283 Pacific that smoke s like that! My 312 SIT smokes like crazy with the later piston type unit install ed by an expert repairman 15 years ago. Too bad he retired from repairing everything!
There are still some good ones out there! Or better yet, try it yourself if you need to. I think you’ll find it’s not as difficult as it looks.
Good job JF. Funny thing, I have four 312 K5 and two 322 engines with that same paint mark and restamp of the number on the cab. When i first encountered this I assumed that it was done by a previous owner, but now I do believe that was done at the factory by Gilbert.
I find the paint stamp to be pretty reliable, versus the decals. But there are a few out there who can reliably remake the paint stamp, a skill I lack unfortunately. Keep 'em running!
Nice upgrade and conversion. Great video. "Happy Rails.". GMan
Thanks for sharing. trying to get caught up "Happy Rails" GMan
Great lay out Johnny, It' going to be really fun when you finally get it completely up and going. Thanks for sharing, and "Happy Rails" GMan
Hi. How do you clean the wheels?
Hi Scott, I used a rotary tool kit with a series of cleaning brush heads. If you're cleaning wheels, I'd recommend you start with a low-abrasive and go up as needed.
@@vmipiper Thanks. I’m assuming you’re talking about something like a dremel tool? Also, I have a few extremely rusty wheels. Would that tool clean those as well?
@@scottnjill1 that’s what I use, and that should work for light rust on just about any metal. Just be careful about getting to close to plastic, as that will probably cause damage. If the rust is really bad, you may want to consider using a rust remover first. Just be very careful if you decide to go that route as they can be extremely corrosive.
@@vmipiper Another question. I hope you don’t mind me asking a lot of questions. Is there an alternative material for the use under cows and people? I tried some self-stick felt and it didn’t work.
instead of just saying "standard" cleaning would really be helpful for you to show the process, thank you love that engine
Thanks Brian. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get footage of this clean up, but I do have several other video on tear down and clean up of these trains. And there are a few other content creators as well who put together some very detailed videos on upkeep and restoration. Dave’s AF trains is a great resource I highly endorse. Keep ‘em running!
A 1946 312 PRR would have been a smoke in tender model ,
Why not buy cows from " port lines hobby"?
Thank you for the question! I'd prefer to make them myself, just to get the experience of using the resin and learning how to make molds. So, it's about learning while doing for me as much as putting it back into service. Port lines is fine, but he's not my go-to for Flyer Parts.
Poor audio recording.
Hey John, thanks for your comment. If you had problems heading the video, feel free to reach out to me with specific questions! Thanks!
Hello JohnnyFlyer! Hope you and yours are safe and well. You mention the 336 not smoking, I had similar results with many of my smokers, 282 4-6-2 Pacific for example, it struggled to smoke at scale speeds, like you mention only near full power was smoke steady and volume adequate until I did this. I purchased this year a couple of Lionel FlyerChief locomotives (ok, please don’t vote me off the AC Gilbert vintage American Flyer island!!) one is 2716, 2-8-4 Berkshire with incredible smoke, choo-choo, and other sounds but it was not smoking up to my expectations, it was performing more like the 282, so I contacted Lionel tech support. They recommended: 1) Change smoke fluid, I started using Lionel Unscented Premium Smoke Fluid 6-83280, 2) don’t allow the smoke unit “dry out”, if so turn “smoke” off, 3) keep the smoke unit “wet”, 4) when loading smoke fluid add 14-16 drops, wow, that thing will run you out of the room, its really cool when smoke builds up in a tunnel. For my vintage AF I apply 12 drops, now plenty of steady smoke even at 30-40% power running scale speed, I do not allow it to dry out and it smokes forever. Use a miniature funnel, one of the common issues I experience on customer rebuilds is evidence of smoke fluid running on top of the smoke unit and everywhere underneath. Of course rebuild loco to ensure adequate power and mechanical operation does not hurt. Take Care! DavesAFTrains
AF 302 needs service. Do you have a website w contact info etc
Please email me at johnnyflyertrains@gmail.com thank you!
How does one contact you re repair work
Hi Timothy, thank you for reaching out! Are you looking to send me your train or just advice?