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beaver pelts for sale? discuss history of upper rogue.

Dear Sir. Maybe you are the best constuctor on the world. But we didnt see the machines working. A lot of speech but no vision of work. Wish you the best.

Thanks. Helped me greatly

I wish you would just show the router working with you operating it. I think that would suffice instead of the first two videos. This medium is visual, not vocal, so seeing what is happening generally is easier when it comes to understanding the physical process rather than trying to explain it. Once I saw the template, the sled, the frame, it's the aha moment. All the previous explanations were just like reading the instructions for my kid's thing a ma jig the night before christmas, that's why usually pictures replaced instructions. Man the best part is seeing the router working on the core and that's the part you fast forward.

Wow, so sorry I didn't see these channels on the J30 5 years ago. Coming late to the party. Man you've got a very definitive workshop plus a yard in which to work without worry❤❤. I'm envious. I've repaired/refitted 3 boats(24 ft endeavor australian, 25 ft yamaha, 33 ft yamaha in my sailing career, but none came close to the expertise or technical detail you exhibited here. My work was all fly by night intuition on what solution would work best, the most technical tool I had thank god was a 4-1/2 makita grinder and the requisite hand tools. Only glass available was roving, cloth and matt and polyester resin (no didn't use bondo) epoxy was hard to get, back then the west system was just being marketed. I ended up using a lot of sikaflex chemicals. The two 24s got lost in typhoons, sold the 33 when I couldn't afford to replace sails, lines, hardware etc, but we sailed the heck out of the 33 over the years, cut my teeth learning ocean sailing on the 24 endeavor. When first doing the work I made the idiot mistake of trying to lay polyester resin over epoxy, found out what happens the hard way, also another early mistake was giving a girlfriend the makita grinder to use when first grinding blisters down. That gelcoat was never the same. The first video you showed on the rebuild looked really daunting when 40-50% of the hull showed wet core, but by video 5-6 you made it look like a walk in the park. I lived in Seattle for about 13 years, only managed to sail a rhodes 19 in lake washington. I'm guessing your brother built boats in La connor. Used to watch the hobies skim across lake union from the old gasworks, but never got to know anyone with a boat, usually they already crewed with family or close friends. Anyway I really enjoyed your videos especially since the J30 has been my fantasy boat. I've always believed I could refit it to sail blue water safely on a budget, especially with the current available electronics and windvanes (bad elf gps, garmin inreach, ipad, ipad backup, inavx app, isailor app, navionics vector charts, AIS+VHF radio, iridium com, inReach com, NMEA setup, solar panels+li-ion batts+led's, hydrovane, flat stack, code zero, personal epirb, dedicated depth sounder). I'm rusty on my celestial, but still practice on a davis 25 as backup. Thanks for posting all these J30 videos, these days my only sailing is vicariously done thru these sailing posts on you tube. However there are a lot of naive sailing videos posted by those new to the sport. There is another channel from England on complete rebuilding a Contessa 32 which I thought was really good and learned a lot on how the boat was built, kind of like the way your videos show the details of the J30.

Are you going to mention how much this rebuild cost not including labor, but inclusive all materials .

Would a vacuum pump used for vacuum on air conditioning split units also work? Or is the manifold too small??.

How did they ascertain wet core areas, with moisture meter or sound hammer or drilling into the hull for sampling.

P.S. I owned a J24 for awhile that had been repaired on deck due to soggy balsa core by the previous owner. He did a great job I thought and removed all wet balsa from below, epoxied new balsa filled and covered new glass all from below. The deck remained thecoriginal skin. However the weak spot always seemed to be the rudder gudgeons and pintles. These always either cracked or split pins and had to be replaced.

Weekend sailor here (last 30 years or so) with a handful of ten day cruises aboard a 42 footer Bob Perry design and a Beneteau design (Perry comfortable but not much, Beneteau fast). 42 is the largest boat Ive sailed on with 24 ft, 30 ft, 33 ft, 36 ft sailed several overnight weekends in open ocean conditions. The J30 has been my fantasy boat, but to get it to where I live I'd have to refit it to sail blue water minimalist style, which I believe the J30 can easily do, wet and bouncy perhaps but very manageable solo. So your channel is my fantasy vicariously living thru. You must not stop your refit cause I need to follow every step. That boat looks really torn up. Knowing what you know what is your opinion on whether the J30 can be refitted for long distance cruising using only the bare systems for safety, strength and comfort. I was aware that a stock J30 crossed the atlantic from MASS, coinciding with the ill-fated fastnet storm race 1979, and reached portsmouth? Same time race was going on. That sailor was William Harrison? His story is recorded in yachting monthly. He is quoted as having suffered a couple of knockdowns ,but nothing threatening he said. Also said the boat performed well, no water got into the boat. All stock, no special. A second J30 actually participated in the race, finished it no issues. So what do you think about sailing one of these across the pacific from san diego past hawaii to the philippines or into indonesia and australia. Or is that kind of crazy.

Thank you very much for an excellent video. I have a rather cheap moisture meter that reads out in percentages. I'm just wondering what the "3 +" you refer to and the 0.6 and the 0.8 might correspond to percentage wise? I've been looking at a couple of boats that read well under 10% above the waterline but one but one reads 26% below the waterline and the other has a patch about 2 m square which pegs the meter so above 60%. My meter is not specific to marine applications.

Hi Dave, I have few questions. You line up all pieces of wood with bottom flat and different height. For the top routing was ok because you have less waste, but when you flip it, on the other side you had a rectangular cross section to grind down. Is that correct? When you have worked on the b side, did you use a jig underneath the rudder to have top face perfectly parallel to the working table? Thanks.

hi nice work! i'm planning to build my rudder too but i plan to do it with marine plywood. I do also have access to oak (old steps from stairs). Is there a reason for using laminated oak instead of brand new marine plywood? Sounds like less steps for me. Just wondering, it's my first rudder project. Thanks!

For the rudders I have built, For the leading edge and trailing edge boards, I cut them in half, and epoxy them back together with several layers of fiberglass matt. This reinforces the the front and back, adds a lot of support to the tapered trailing edge, an impact area on the leading edge, as well as gives a centerline to shape to. For holes, I drill an oversize hole, fill with epoxy, then redrill. The hole is water tight. I don't use carbon, as I have no idea on how many layers I need. Carbon doesn't stretch, so it's either strong enough, or snaps, usually at a bad time. I have switched to S-glass for a skin.

Yes, make it 8.5ft.,you've come this far. Also raise the stern's 2-2 1/2". I raised my 18sq. 2 1/2", had to fabricate new transoms. Improved the performance, especially in light to moderate air. Made new daggerboards and rudder out of Philippine mahogany, knocked off 20 lbs.

Im late for the party. Where is #7?

You got a really nice workshop. Ive always had to work under blue plastic when repairing or fixing the boat.

If you hate unsolicited opinions, then Just trash the following: g1A friend and I had similar issues on a J-24. The solution we used (on site there was a lack of technical tools and he was working on a very limited bidget.) anyway rather than tearing off the outside skin, ( we want to preserve the smooth curve and avoid lots of sanding later on) he removed the inside skin and removed all wet, damp balsa. This was easy to repair in some areas. Re-glue the core, smooth in microballoons and layup the final layers of inside glass and trim. But looks like your J-30 has real significant areas under bulkheads and even under floor. Looks like a huge complicated job. Here's my 2 cents. Tear out all inside bulkheads, floors cabinets, etc that cover the damaged areas. Try to keep shape and structural integrity of the stuff you tear out. Then cut out the inside skin where damage occurs and replace with either new balsa or foam core. Now here's where repairing needs to be very technical so as to follow the epoxy layup times, schedules strength overlays ( may need expert advice for this) Use kevlar cloth for tabbing back bulkheads and floors. There will be a lot of filleting, tabbing. Also. May be a good time to redesign layout down below for aesthetics and extra strength. I repaired the floors on a 33-ft many many years ago that had, similar damage to the keel. Boat is still sailing but I did a very coarse job with very basic cloth, matt, roving and timber for the keel step areas. But I didnt have to tear out any bulkheads. These plastic boats are constructed similar to shoe boxes, lots of 90 degree bends, corners. When the box is continually flexed over time as in slamming into a close reach, those bends and corners flex and cause unseen wear to the rfp. over time you start getting leaks, delamination, etc, as the individual glass fibers break. Ag

Anyone know who the artist of the guitar background is and the name of the song? It's quite beautiful!

J30's are my favorite boats. But this is the reason I will never own one. The guy who put wood in the hulls needs a massive kick in the balls.

Is there a take out? If so how long is it? A group of friends and I plan on kayaking from Service Creek to Cottonwood Park (147 miles), but most of our kayaks are just your cheap $200-300 ones.. and they're going to be heavy.., I dont want to take any unnecessary risks. Also is there a store in Clarno, or somewhere to get drinking water? I've driven through that town many times for work, but I dont remember seeing a store..?

do you know anyone who capsized?

I found a great sailboat at a great price then went to do the survey and found 50% her hull was balsa cored and had high moisture readings. She is a skeptre 36. She has an electric windlass new huge lewmar winches nice davits with a grand 10 ft dinghy with a newer outboard 2 huge solar panels and a chart plotter full enclosure neat interior... You get the idea she is well equipped.. But these moisture reading on the deck peg the meter in some places... I don't know what to do. On the one hand its only 25k. on the other hand it will not have a great resale value. Are high moisture readings really a huge deal breaker? I don't mind doing some work in the future my self instead of getting ripped off by the yard.. But will the boat fall apart and put my life at risk? Or is this all about resale?

Rally driving

I'm a young guy about to rebuild a 5.7 thanks for this

How do you stop the vacuum bag adhering to the new core that it's holding in place?

Great job Dave,your Mast is completely restored.Looks like an HC18 Mast. I've an issue with water at the upper section.I 'll remove the riveds and seal it with Silikone. The Problem is there are just some spare parts available for HC18 here in Germany or Europe in generel. So i have to improve to get a good result. Have a Hobie day🤙

Beautiful boat and place.

8:29. What a fantastic finish. The finish is so good, you can clearly see the reflection of the Prindle on the starboard bow! I've owned #472 since I bought it in 1977 however the factory replaced the hulls in 1979. If only they built them the way you do! Having problems with a forward lug shearing out of the hull just like you described. I'll be sure to file the edges to remove any sharpness. I'll be searching for the chapter where you fixed them. Looks like I'll have to add a couple more inspection covers to access it. I say more because years ago, I added two to the area in front of the rear crossbar to access the entire trampoline support. I found that the individual washers on the rivets that the factory used were prone to tear out so I replaced all of them with one continuous strip of aluminum. Big improvement!

We ran the middle chute several years ago once successful and the second I got dumped. I agree...the Fish Ladder is not as exciting.

Great walk through of your procedures...I am putting a layer of 24oz on inside. You had it harder but, your boat has an inside built, I don't LOL...keep up the good work...cheers!

I thought my hull was a pain, brother, more power to you...I went through 12 #36 grit wheels for my 30' boat hull, fyi...what brand fairing are you using...fairing is first on my spring list, then recoring deck...total fair is what I was recommended...keep at it...all will pay off in the end

beautiful work man...I sub'd... doing similiar deal, though a bit more extensive...appreciate fine craftsmanship...get lots of ideas from other peoples fine work and ideas....cheers!

Great video!!!!

Back To The Future at ruclips.net/video/5cbKjCdeOzQ/видео.html

Great video and thanks for sharing it. A LOT of great work and info. here as I try to keep my 5.0 running.

Thank you for these videos! I searched hard to find this type of video to help me with my project. I would love to see your Nacra 5.2 but perhaps I have not looked hard enough. Thanks again for great videos.

My 5.2 is number 472 however the hulls were replaced in 1979. I think the hull numbers are 1336. I had problems with the bulkheads failing due to the factory failing to glass them in completely. You can imagine how much strength they add to the hull when glassed in properly. What struck me about your video is the fact that you don't have any rear bulkheads at all, just the two under the front crossbeam. Do you know if Nacra stopped installing the rear bulkheads?

Great video ! I'm Going to do this asap. Thanks Dave G

Work is progressing inside the warm wood shop right now. I need warmer ambient temperature to help with the vacuum drying, or I will end up paying a fortune for propane fuel. I also tried a much larger 70,000 btu furnace and while it was good for warming the entire bottom of the boat without building some kind of device to point the heat more vertically it won't be helpful. I think that amount of heat directed straight at the hull would be way too much heat. It also devoured 4 gallons of fuel in just about 9 hours. Might do better if it wasn't flipping 15 degrees out. My investigation of refrigeration type pumps didn't seem like they could pull enough vacuum to be effective. Lower vacuum levels means having to reach much higher temperatures to get the moisture to start vaporizing. The pump I put together will pull 26 inches of Hg. and that boils water at 122 °. I will do an update video on current project soon.

I realize that the weather in your part of the word is awful right now but I am anxious to see the next installment as I am currently looking at a j30 that has had substantial core repairs and more core areas that are "damp". I'm particularly interested in the vacuum approach to repair. This is used in a/c work to not only evacuate air from the system, but it also effectively removes the moisture. Hope all goes well with your ambitious repair. Jim

thanks Dave. I was looking at an 81 today in active service in Chicago. im in Michigan. need a great lakes cruiser to prep me for live aboard retirement. was thinking a j109 to retire to.

how did you get the marine survey? cost?

Very nice!

Wow. Going left of Can Opener is a death wish in a drift boat. I am surprised by this and will never try it.

Great trip with an awesome group!!!