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It sounds like the variable speed pulley is stuck or maybe the belt is twisted. Take a peek from the left side under the seat and you should be able to see it clearly.

@@MechaniChics the belt looked to be on correctly. I had washed the dust and grass off before putting it up. I used it after checking the belt and it worked like it should. Probably got stuck like you suggested due to a dusty area I had to keep passing over.

That's one way to do it, but I usually use a wrench. The torque isn't high on that nut.

@@MechaniChics okay cool

Well. Amazon lost my parts, bearings, pulley, my 7/8’s crows foot , but Amazon says will be here on the 30th. That pulley tension spring is a nightmare. Found a tool at Harbor Freight for that now. They had crows foot wrench’s up to 3/4 inch but to get to a 7/8’s , the kit was 60.00 bucks, no thanks. As far as dropping the axle, that crows foot will come in handy for getting that big pulley off just enough to clear the belt clearance. Like the lady says if you change the variable pulley, change the two bearings, SOP.

@@dwwmoon I just dropped a screwdriver down one of the holes on top of the pulleys so it would lock it in place on top of the transmission and used the regular 7/8 combination wrench and popped it with my hand and it came right off.

@@MechaniChics Yep, when I put everything back together the first time, so I could at least finish the yard, I had no choice , dropped the screw driver in and muscle it loose, wish I had a picture of my arms after this deal, looked like I was in a fight with a bear. But, still didn’t get the yard done , before the bolt backed out again. Just pushed it back into the shed until parts arrive.

We removed the debris and it ran great!

That's a possibility.

Ummm. Want me to answer that?

So glad!

It could be the spring bracket. If you turn that one the wrong way it will grind.

@@MechaniChics I solved it a few days ago. I believe that’s what it was. Thanks!

Welcome. 😊

Great!

5/16-18 x 1” is the bolt size for base of the steering shaft.

I don't remember, honestly. I know it was metric. If you look up your model number and pull up the schematic, the part number will usually tell you the dimensions.

We could certainly do that, but since this is the first time this machine has been serviced that we know, replacing one and not the others is a waste of the customer's time and money. Having an all new deck with equal wear is better all around. Thanks for the comment!

@@MechaniChics yeah those parts are not expensive and cuts down on shop time

Thanks!

It would have been over an hour to tap and drill, not including the cost of buying the right tap and die, so getting the new one was a much more cost effective alternative for my customer. Thanks for the feedback!

Try some Loctite on the threads. It's also used on the VSP bolt.

Or maybe put a lock washer on it

It's a crappy dumb beyond belief design. That bolt turns with the shaft so it can't be too tight.

If you see the slight bump, that's enough. Depending on your model, intake should be set .005-.009 and exhaust set at .003-.007. If this was a problem for a while, it could be that you strained your starter. Does it turn over fine with the plug out?

@@MechaniChics yes. I'm running a jump pack directly to the starter. I'll mess with it some more today. Not a fan of these motors. Seems like they blow head gaskets, leaky valve cover, broken compression release on cam, and wear counter weights.

@@kurtknispel9170 Good luck. I replaced one this week that had broken one rocker arm and bent the other push rod because of the ACR. The valves were set right but the intake rod was so bent it wasn't opening the valve correctly. New head for that one, too. Check that today and let me know.

@@MechaniChics well pulled the push rod for the intake out. Looked straight till I rolled it on a slab of marble I use to surface heads. Very slightly bent. Replaced that and it's running great. Thanks for the help. This is the 1st one I've fixed. Usually I have plenty of good used motors and just replace. I've ran out of good used ohv briggs so I'm trying to repair some since we're getting into the off season. I've got several that have the counter weight knock I'll be doing next. This was the only one with the compression release issue and I got it with some free mowers a few days ago. Keep up the great videos. I've been having another issue with a troy bilt bronco I can't seem to solve. When I got it the drive belt tensioners were off. Put some on and it wouldn't go over 2mph even after adjusting tension. I've tried other belts some it wouldn't drive others went 5mph but was too thick and binding on tensioners. Some of the belts ended up working just fine on other machines with similar drive system difference being drive pedal and brake on opposite side on problem machine and same side on other machines calling for same drive belt. I've tried other pulleys on the back where both belts go. No change. Rolls good. I'm lost on why this one won't do right

@@kurtknispel9170 I posted a video on the variable speed pulley last year, but you're saying this one has a single drive belt with pulleys and tensioners operated by the brake pedal and not a VSP? If so, can you see if the belt is slipping or if the transmission just isn't turning quickly? You checked the model number and belt specs to be sure the belt you're trying is exactly what is required? Those OEM belts can be a third of an inch different than the aftermarket and make all the difference. Hydrostatic transmission? I guess you could just send me the model number so I could look. mechanichics@gmail.com

its rusted stuck

How did you finally get that out.

Clamp the steering wheel instead of the shaft. Heat is okay, or use some of the other suggestions here in the comments.

@@captivatedbymandie I did that and it worked well. I also used a manual impact driver and mapp gas. Once I got the screw out, I threw it about 75 yards into the lake and replaced it with a 13mm bolt.

Grab the model number from under your seat. Type it into PartsTree.com or a similar website. That will give you the schematics. Click on Steering, and the diagram will pop up with a parts list below it. You can usually click on the part in the diagram and the part number will come up. You can order directly from that site or copy the part number into Amazon or Google to research pricing. Hope that helps!

On a Briggs & Stratton single-cylinder, the model number will be engraved on the top of the overhead valve, near the headlight area. Many times you have to remove the grease to see it. Starters don't go bad super often, but with age they will. The model and type (6 digits, 4 digits, 2 digits) are needed to order parts, but the code will tell you the birthdate of the engine. The first two digits are the year, followed by the two digit months, and then the two digit date. The last two digits are the manufacturing facility. For these single cylinder Briggs, the hardest part of changing the starter is getting to the blower housing bolts on the backside. Especially on the newer ones, the housing is backed up to the fuel tank, which has to be removed to gain access.

Thanks for showing up and commenting!

Just when you think he has it contained... Nope!

Not sure what "IT" is?

Here the grass is friendly and enjoyable. :D I'll make sure to note that if I come toward Texas.

I spray for them twice a year but with dogs and cats They always come back 😢😢😢 Costs to buy spray 😢

Good question. If you look up the model number and pull up the schematic, click on the bolt, and the part number should show with the correct pitch and length.

Yes, I believe they are 6204-2RS, or maybe without the 2 before the RS.

Sorry that it locked up, but you're right, it's so hard to find a solid mower these days! I tell everyone to keep their old one and baby it as long as they can!

I'm fairly certain this pinion gear was separate from the column. That Phillips head IS the worst idea ever. The end play for the steering is supposed to be there, I don't think I would shim it, but glad it's working for you. Long live old mowers!

Pinion is definitely a single piece with the steering shaft on mine...I've replaced it at least 3 times...lol. Keep up the great work and videos.

Your post on the tires makes me wonder if I can swap out larger front tires, or solid tires to avoid the inflation issue. Larger tires may make cutting blades not be even, so the solid tires may be a better way to go. The ride may be a little rough, but worth the trade off.

Go slow and easy, it should be fine. These are Work Horses, right? LOL

I didn't have to this time, but if I didn't have my power tools I probably would have.

Glad you were able to get it out, and fantastic advice!

Hope you found answers on RUclips University! :D

It's amazing how much better they run on gas than water! :D

Agreed.

That's sweet, and you're welcome!