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Where do you mount sensors? Just on the gate posts to create a beam?

Either play in the bearings and the preload has come lose, or a shim isn't correct and there was never a preload in the previous assembly, all taper bearings have a preload, as do all gears have a meshing mark.

Can you share what size battery the remotes take?

I am not successful in activating the key pad

Thanks for the info dirk knowitski😅

Oh man I got a toilet full of human s*** that I'm going to have to use this thing for!

Thanks man! Straight to the point!! Really helped me!! Have a blessed life🙏🫵

Omg thank you!! I was using this confused and frustrated! This was honestly so fucking helpful! 😭😭🤣

Straight to the point. No big production intro...thx

That shouldn't happen, it sounds awfull and until youve assembled it you cant tell. You shim inner or outer to bring the meshing of those gears to be correct.

Making my own fire starters used to be a hassle - so messy and time-consuming. Now, I use Black Beard Fire Starters. Very affordable and they are made in America!

What connections do i have to use for a extra switch with cable?

Thanks for the video - I think having squared ends would make it safer than the angled ends. Ask your neighbour to use their chainsaw (?) to square the logs for you. And please wear full cover shoes/boots and gloves. Stay safe.

Hello, i have this engine and the cooling works fine when its turned left, but when i turn right it stops comming water from the telltale. Any ideas?

does it work for toilets

Any one else just bend the old one to a 90⁰ angle and see if it works i did and seems to be going well now i just have to wait till my other 90⁰ boots to come in from Amazon cause stupid header clearance wouldnt allow the regular boot to fit 🤦

Hello, what gauge are those cdi power pack wires please? Some of Mine are corroded and I need to cut and spice some new wire.

A man and his new gate opener in his living room ! LOL

Right to the point. Thank you

Please show us how to set up gate sensor?

Are the floats to high you might want recheck them for your gas leak

Ya, it's not a very good idea to split wood with short and fuckin flip flops on! WTF? I still can't figure out why people (or the manufacturers) don't install some kind of table or plate on the back of the splitter behind the splitting wedge to collect the wood pieces instead of just letting them fall on the ground (or your half bare shower shoes!)

still going strong yes i dont think direction matters :)

I run mine on 4 Ah batteries, but then (a) I have a small lawn and (b) I have a number of batteries. So, YMMV...

Is the coil still working? How do you know what direction to wrap the coil? Or does it matter?

I have a switch box 70 hp mercury 2 stroke and the middle wires on switch box White & Green / white are the only terminal that will get me close to #1 cylinder 2% btdc

Those early Mercury 2.4 200 hp(1983) with the 5 petal horizontal reeds were slightly under-rated at "200" ..... LOL !

Thanks brother

Thank you for your toilet coil drone wisdom well said simple 💯

I may be wrong but I think you are threading the tension disc incorrectly. In the singer manual for the 112w139 on pages 10 and 11 it shows the thread passing between to the tension discs then directly to the thread controller, without looping over that pin. The thread comes into the right tension disc at about 1 o'clock and exits at about 7 o'clock. Perhaps the pin is simply to fix the orientation of the tension components.

Thank you for taking the time to go over this gate opener. Have you installed the infrared sensors? I installed my sensors following the instructions on the annex document that came with the unit. However, my sensor is closing the gate instead of opening it. Do you happen to have any ideas on how to reverse this function?

Thank you

Thanks

Wearing flip flops and no gloves?? Com' on, man!

So grateful for your video. Every year we go from winter to summertime, I do not know how to change the timer. Once I just pressed all buttons and incidentally set a timer for 5 minutes and when I put my cake in the oven, it went out after 5 minutes, I got crazy as I had invited many people and thought that the oven was broken. I had just wrongly pushed the buttons 😂. So now, I always refer to your video! Thanks again!

Cool cool.... But how bout the part to attach the drill. I'm not trying to do this manually. If that was the case, I'd say fuck the clogged pipe and just replace it. I don't have that time. I wish this was actually useful.

Now that’s a chop. The super low deep chop lets you knows tuned just right. Almost all high cams have a high pitch chop but the low deep chop is just immaculate

I have an answer for the gas leaking. Trim the engine down to proper running position and the leak will stop, as long as everything else is right. Found that on iboat forum, and that was my problem. After 3 times pulling carbs

Thank you for informing me. Damn I feel stupid fussing with this thing hahaha

I see you can buy this splitter with a foot peddle switch, included.

Saw somebody else do it and its about 6,000 turns for just over 400 ohms result.😮

Got a 98 te 610. It did help. Thanks for making the video.

The timing mark is to do with the starting place that make sure everything is in time , before removing the belt , think about the horizontal shaft at the top that the hand wheel connects to also on that top shaft it runs the set cam timed by the factory that the take up leaver is linked to ,,and needle bar and all its crank arm moving sections, I am sure the thread take up lever you can not time it as its moves by the connections that are linked to the cam and set and timed at the factory with the cam at the back, to the hand wheel , The bottom horizontal shaft that has the timing mark you asked, I am sure you line the arrow up with the mark before moving the the shuttle hook drive, if you don`t keep it lined up I think you will send the top shaft out of sequence with the bottom shuttle drive shaft. And the belt makes sure that the top and bottoms shafts move in time with each other, So as you know the hand wheel is the drive to move all parts like the fly wheel on a car, Now Ive seen videos on your model or type where they are removing the belt and them lining up the arrow and they explain what they are doing at the time. Think of a car, much easier to understand the sewing machine then, When you have a crank at the bottom part of the engine where the pistons are clamped on to the crank is a part that basically is shaped up an down not a straight shaft, hens crank and at the end of the crank you have a cog or pulley sticking out passed the engine casing that can be removed from its place, Then you have a cam shaft at the top part of the engine, that moves the cams etc, with a cog or cogs at the end of that shaft or shafts sticking out passed the engine casing just like the Crank Shaft,but the Cam Shaft has pieces of oval shaped metal that was machined out from one thick shaft, like the crank shaft was, but the cam shaft move the cams . Now to keep CRANK SHAFT and the CAM SHAFT turning in perfect time with each other as they are a distance apart ,you have to connect the ends to each shaft using a belt or a linked chain to there cogs or pulley wheels , But before you can just join the two up to work in sequence with each other leaving the belt or chain still on the cog or cogs , you have to turn the Crank Shaft cog or pulley , this will move the top Cam cogs to the respected markings to top dead center and then you lock the cam shaft cog or cogs in place or its moving the Crank shaft pistons to top dead center ,this stops them coming out of sequence with the each other, using a special jig so the cam shaft cogs don`t move out of there position so the timing is not messed up. The cogs or cog will have markings on them ` so will the out side of the engine case i think, Now I think moving back down to the lower part on to the Crank Shaft it should have a marking for top dead center T.D.C you can remove the timing belt or timing linked chain once you turn to the Crank Shaft to T.D.C . Now if you have ever heard when some one says Owe!! you don`t want your timing belt to snap on you as that will be costly due to the damage, This is because when the crank shaft is spinning so fast them pistons are going up and down at great speeds at all different heights depending on there compression strokes , and the Crank Shaft will be not in sequence to the Cam Shaft any more . When you replace a new belt or chain you need to set the Crank shaft new belt pulley or linked cog to a set of markings inscribed on the engine block, as its a new belt or chain its not going to be stretched so must be set to the correct marking forward or back or in the center or else you timing will be off,and the car will not run correctly, Now when the timing belt brakes the crank shaft spins at a different time to what it was set to, the Can Shaft , So now they are both out of sequence with each other, which leads to damage when thing hit each other, Now as I don`t really now or understand the correct positioning on engines its not far off in my dialysis.some things are slightly off but close enough for you to get the jest, why timing is important, And as you work with cogs etc possibly engineering you possibly know more about the sewing machine than I do, just need to stop second guessing your self , If you think about what can be adjusted at what can not then you know that certain things are not going to be out of sequence, certain things on a sewing machine you do not want to mess with,or it can be a night mare to get it back into sequence, So now back to the sewing machine, if you can build a sewing machine you can build a car engine , if you can build a car engine you can build a helicopter , if you can build a helicopter you can build a fighter plain if you can build a fighter plain from learning the sewing machine then we won`t have any more engineers to fix our sewing machine`s Sorry could not resist that🤣just that dam silly advert stuck in my head , So think about the car and now you will have a better understanding to your sewing machine, i Its best to break the sewing machine into three sections front- top- bottom, think about how they are connected to each other,think about what you can mess with out causing a issue to the other section, On your other video where you show the machines issues , I have put down the same issue I had it was the same you were getting on your machine ,stitching looping snagging and untwisting, you will find it should find it solving your machine issues and it possibly is not what you think or have been told by others,

Good video. Thx 👍

Thank you for this video! If you haven't already done so...I would recommend that everyone, use a heavier gauge extension cord. The shorter and heavier gauge... the better. It's surprising how much more torque the splitter has, if it wasn't for the voltage drop across the long extension cord. The other option would be to run a small generator within a short distance from the splitter.

Lol thank you, thought I bought a broken one because the drill wasn't doing anything

do you have the link for manual?

Change out your tension disks if there's any wear on them at all(grooves) .... Also you must clean them from time to time. Also look at the pins in them, they get worn groves in them and must be swapped out.... Cut down the shanks of old needles... They are the right size and hardened steel. Clean the take up disks after the main tension disks as well. The take up spring should be replaced once in awhile as well because they can loose their spring tension. Don't replace that mechanism because the new Chinese parts just don't work right on these old machines for some reason. Also check your needles for any burrs or wear in the eyelets.... When in doubt replace. You also want to check the hook timing and needle height. The needle should be 1/4" above its lowest travel on the up stroke...then the sharp "hook" (if it's not sharp your gonna need a new one, the entire bobbin assembly) should be just above the needle thread hole in the center of the diameter of the needle and extremely close...like less than the thickness of a sheet of paper. Also make sure your oiling every moving part of the machine and there is a few places of the bobbin assembly shaft that people often overlook. That's most of the issues for your problem if all that is good then it's just a tension adjustment usually if the machine is in good condition otherwise... Rule out your thread being bad or cheap as well. BTW, the manual for that machine is free online. You'll wanna pay attention to setting both bobbin assemblies correctly and do one at a time. That machine can do up to 1.5" needle gauge so if you want a different gauge setup(cheap kits on amazon ) get those parts because the bobbin setup is re-adjusted for each gauge size the same way as I described above for correct operation. Also some machines like exact, some like a little pre-timed and some like post-timed.... You'll figure that out if dead on doesn't work correctly just set the hook a 1/32" behind or ahead of dead center of the needle diameter. Once you dig into your own maintenance.... And this is just normal maintence, you shouldn't need any repair guy again. This is a manual oil machine so generous use of sewing machine oil on every moving part is critical and ensure these machines pretty much live forever. If your bobbin assembly is loose on the shafts then they must be replaced, usually only happens with poor maintence or industrial use over decades. Hope that helps.

This was super helpful

Only watched this for the remote pairing. Do you have a instruction video on that?