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Indeed the better your intercoolers the cooler the charged air can be, leading to more power. The best intercoolers will produce a 10 degree difference before and after. I have a dual temp sensor for this purpose.

Yes, I've been using Redline since I first got the car. Very happy with it!

This car went under the knife for a series of upgrades after the video so we haven't been able to test this theory out yet. Hopefully it will be ready to get back to tuning in the next month or so.

Yes, correct sir.

I can't really say for sure but you can find it here: chromedecu.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/IMG_51951.jpg

@@Morgamania2 thank you very much! Is there a way that I can buy the adapter itself? I looked very closely at the one I have and the RCA jack has the wrong amount of rings on it. The one you linked me to has the correct amount of rings. I believe the jack is where I’m having my issue of not being able to flash my chrome ECU.

That's an interesting concept. I'm not sure though theoretically it sound plausible. Most people are just going to replace the spring in their wastegate if they want a lower minimum boost pressure.

It's only that intermediate run group that has that restriction. The advanced group can pass anywhere on the track with a point-by. Quite a bit more freedom there!

All good feedback is well appreciated.

Hmmm...I can't remember. My car, on a similar build, had 117,000 at the time.

The IAC in this car is part of the Jester MAF. I'm actually on speed density on the AEM so the MAF is generally ignored. The only value coming from it that is used is the IAT. Ideally I'd delete the MAF and just install an IAT after the intercoolers. The Jester MAF is great for people on Chrome as it reads farther than the stock MAF helping you to get beyond the theoretical ~400 horsepower limitation.

It's pretty straight forward. There are only two wires and polarity doesn't matter. Take one wire and connect it to a switched 12 volt power source. The other wire goes to the pin on your ECU that manages the wastegate duty cycle output. That will vary based on the ECU you are using so refer to the pinout in your ECU manual.

@@Morgamania2 I have a jester chrome ECU for my TT. Would you happen to know which plug to pin into?

@@kiweeltyler3586 If I'm correct on the first generations it is pin 105 and on the 2nd generation (94-97) it is pin 102.

@@Morgamania2 thanks! I have a ‘92 TT Stealth I’m working on. So pin 105 it is!

Hello. I'm not too certain but on the FTO from 1996 on they say it is OBD2. So it would seem no additional adapter would be necessary.

I'll give my tactrix and mitsubishi cable ago tomorrow, then I need to read all sensors as the car has been running rough at random times. I have replaced every sensor besides the crank angle and ignition sensor.

@@MrShortStuff Great! Keep me posted!

Yep I can use tactrix on the FTO but having issues copying the file.

@@MrShortStuff Flash wire connected?

No, the tune should not cause the car to run rich. Unless it was tuned inappropriately. If the car was running well and then recently became rich it is likely due to some mechanical issue (leaky fuel injector, vacuum/boost leak, etc.). Yes, I'd be happy to work with you on an updated tune. Email me at RacerXPerformance@gmail.com

Some sources say 4mm, I gave up trying to figure it out too, just went to AutoZone and bought a mf hose

Definitely the nicest comment I've had the pleasure of receiving! Truly made my day! Thank you for your kind words.

As I understand it, it had to do with the market for this type of car changing there in the late 90s.

@@Morgamania2 It’d nice if Mitsubishi could still compete in that market imagine a new 3000GT along side GTRs , Supra Mk5 , Nissan fairlady z , Nsx , GR86s and sense it they had a collab with Chrysler at the time current Dodge. (But then again I love my 1993 3KGT) Just wondered where they could’ve gone with all that tech , and that motor

That's a bit of tribal knowledge. It's like that not only for the 3000GTs but for Evos and DSMs as well.

Actually no issues with the BOV or the Jester MAF. This car is on speed density so the only thing used from the MAF is the IAT. I could removed it altogether and just put in a solo IAT sensor. Once the fuel pump wiring and IAC were fixed it was back to normal.

@@Morgamania2 That creates another hardware problem where the IAT should be in the manifold, not before it. Both temperature and pressure drop across the throttle butterfly, not really relevant for WOT but essential for part throttle. The turbos heat the charge, the charge coolers try to cool it. What you're measuring at the intake has zero relevance to the manifold temp.

@@1magnit I hear ya, but idk as the stock VR-4 is designed that way. I don't have any issues at part throttle.

With the stock setup it's equivalent to MAF, as in the air is metered before it enters the engine, volume, temperature and pressure. Those 3 give mass. When it's speed density you've got to measure the air inside the manifold. To get density you need temperature and pressure. That's inside the manifold not temperature before it enters the engine. If you're only measuring the pressure in the manifold it's not speed density, it's speed pressure with a clown type temperature compensation. The Mitsubishi factory speed density setups, they measure the temp at the far end of the manifold, the opposite end from the throttle body. @@Morgamania2

@@1magnit True on the MAF stock setup. I should have clarified that earlier. I understand what you are saying there with regard to where we measure temperature. This is the car tuned here: ruclips.net/video/Prmn_7ToGQw/видео.html

For the 3000GT/Stealth/GTO they all run on the same engine with few changes between the generations I, Ii, and III over those nine years. There are some pros to the 2nd and 3rd generations that I believe make them a bit more stable.

Wow! You just made my day! Thank you for your kind words. Please subscribe and any of your GTO friends in Australia too! :)

Definitely not. If left that way it will eventually wear out your solenoid. 1) Check your wiring, ensure the power is switched rather than constant. 2) Check your tune to ensure that duty cycle is only requested under boost related circumstances.

@@Morgamania2 so I switched wires.. still the same.. so then I thought I’d put the original one back on… it turns out that this one also clicks constantly… I wouldn’t have thought this was normal.

@@Paulieman20 Yes, that is odd. What engine management system is the car using? I'm wondering if the tune is calling for some amount of duty cycle all the time...

I'm not sure here. Maybe you can provide more detail.

Your kind words mean so much! You just made my day! Thank you.

Thank you so very much! If you haven't already, please subscribe so we can continue to create more videos like this. :)

I can't speak to the actual cost but the build list is in the description so you can get an idea for the cost of the parts. Then add in labor and the tuning.

Alot lol tf

Hi, I apologize for the late reply. Through the tuning on your ECU you can command more or less wastegate duty cycle (WGDC) to the solenoid. The more WGDC the harder the solenoid works to keep the wastegates from seeing any pressure, thus more boost. How much WGDC at a given RPM is where your tuning comes into play and will determine how much WGDC is needed to gain 10 pounds of boost. You start out doing the open loop boost tuning to determine these amounts of duty cycle needed for your boost goals. Then you finish things up with closed loop boost tuning to keep the boost from over or under boosting.

RIP Terrorist Hunt 😞