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Yes, the ATN3600 was originally fitted to this deck. Audio-Technica no longer make that original version of the stylus, instead replacing it with ATN3600L or ATN3600LE which are both compatible (www.audio-technica.com/en-eu/support/atn3600-lc-vs-atn3600-le). There are also plenty of compatible replacements available from other manufacturers for the original ATN3600 so you have choices. If the sound is not clean, there are several possible things which could cause that and are worth investigating - with a microscope or magnifier: The stylus tip may be dirty, damaged or chipped. The fine cantilever arm of the stylus could be bent or twisted so the stylus tip does not sit at the correct angle in the record groove. Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for quick answer. Yeah, probably the stylus is damaged and generate mid-turn distortion. What's else.. The New stylus looks different than the original one - is silver with sharp shape of the top. Original one is black and more polish imo..

www.gbaudio.co.uk/data/belts.htm

Thanks 😊

Sounds like the whole subchassis is sitting too low. Tighten up the springs a bit (see my other TD150 'below deck' tutorial).

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

As I explain in the video, the foam is designed to dampen the suspension a little, which may be a help if the deck is on a wobbly or unstable surface. I explain that it is my preference to remove the foam for decks which have a solid support because an unfettered spring will give maximum isolation from chassis-borne vibrations. You are of course free to retain the foam if you wish, but bearing in mind that many other spring suspended decks do not have any foam at all, I think it is entirely reasonable to consider it optional, not essential.

When it starts to slip, typically a belt will last 5 years +. But it depends on the amount of use and atmospheric conditions. Surprisingly, a belt will last longer when it is used regularly. If you are going to store or not use a player for a while, it is best to remove the belt and store it in an airtight plastic bag or box. It will last better at rest.

You will need an RIAA phono preamp because your Yamaha receiver only had line level inputs.

Why?

@@stephenhill8806 because the vtf setting increments will be wrong and you balance the tonearm with no weight , next stupid question,

@@michaelbrind9222he set the weight to the first mark as a zero datum point. He then counted three half gram increments to set the vtf to 1.5g.

​@@markcarrington8565correct

To be fair, I gave the simple 'piece of string' method as well as the mathematical calculation so you can follow which ever method of measurement you feel most comfortable with. Regards GB

De rien, je suis tres content de vous aider. You're welcome, I'm very happy to help.

Yes, this is the standard style for this player. Most compatible replacements will have a diamond tip, which will typically last for 10,000 hours. Dirty or dusty records will wear out the stylus quicker, so keep them clean.

Sorry, we don't know any place that sells these parts. Ebay might be your best bet if someone is breaking a TD125 for parts. Good luck.

@@gbaudio1212 thank you Ebay is dead too so if you hear anything please keep in touch thank you

As you will see in our video, the earth/ground cable attaches to the steel sub-chassis with a self-tapping screw. The cartridge output wires each have their own ground so the function of the separate wire is to make sure that the metal parts of the sub-chassis are at the same electrical potential as the signal earth to avoid picking up hum. Two things to note: take care that the cable has a loop between the fixing point on the sub-chassis and the P-clip or saddle clip on the chassis. This will enable the deck to float properly, as shown in the video. Also take care that the screw is not so long that it touches the chassis and fouls the suspension. If there is not a fixing hole already, choose a location which is clear of any obstructions. Good luck.

Every method is good, choose the one that suits you. The factory one with the original insert fits me best.

@@jacekhabrajski8440 Yeah but it's down to the zenith it has been noted it's been as much as 17 degrees off and on the average is 2 1/2° off no cartridge is completely correct and got nothing to do with cost.

Some interesting hacks there, thanks for sharing. Totally agree about the importance of reducing resonance. Sorry, but I beg to differ regarding the foam in the springs. If you put more foam in them, their function as isolators will be impaired and vibration will be able to pass through from the chassis to the sub-chassis. Without foam, the springs provide the maximum isolation for the floating sub-chassis. However, as I said in the video, the shelf/support needs to be very stable and vibration free. A good support could be anything from a well supported 12mm plywood shelf to a slab of concrete, so long as it can't move. GB

@@gbaudio1212 no it's a complete opposite with the foam think about it! You're not preventing isolation you're adding to isolation by using the foam, springs have a resonance to them and you need to damp that resonance the springs resonance, the foam dampens it. I actually put a thicker piece of foam at the top 15mm thick pushing at the outside of the spring, I don't think the foam is thick enough at the bottom, I replaced that as well pushing against the springs so it leaves an imprint in the foam, foam is the best isolator you can get, its mainly air about 97% is air but of course it doesn't have the structure ability to hold up the sub chassis and platter what you need it to dampen it, springs metal resonate you've got rubber but that's not enough I don't believe you need the foam what is better than the rubber on its own. I can't see your logic why you think foam is going to prevent isolation? makes no sense. I've just done a test with a fork try it get a fork and a washing up sponge when you put the handle of the fork to your ear you can hear the ringing in the fork when tapping the fork prongs, stick the fork through the sponge so there's about an inch sticking out and then tap it or flick it with your nail and you're here it deadens the ring eliminates it, its the same principle for a spring, metal is a great transfer of noise. That's why I always thought the foam wasn't adequate enough, and I made it wider and added a piece on the wider part of the spring as well on both ends and just left the spring open in the middle. Try you got nothing to lose you can always take it out again but I'm sure you won't. I think there's another benefit as well it makes the whole table a bit stiffer I've noticed on Linn upgrade kits the springs are thicker metal than original and I think that is the same case on the Thorens. You could try a thin piece of Cork on either end of the spring as well something that's about three or four millimeter thick, along with the rubber that will give you even more isolation I don't see people doing that but the principle should be good. Is actually what they use in the main bearing at the bottom it's cork a piece of plastic and a steel shim well on the 160 anyway probably the same with the 150..

Sorry, I can't say for sure. Best to check with Grado if the new stylus is compatible with the older cartridge.

There are many standard headshells which will fit the JVC, Technics and other Japanese turntables with an 'S' shaped arm. We sell an ultra-low-mass headshell for £12.41 with regular wires or £27.95 with Van-Damme wires. gbaudio.co.uk/data/cartridges.htm

You're welcome

This turntable is A Marantz TT5005 and there is a link to the online shop in the description text above, where you will find the correct replacement belt.

There is a link to the online shop in the description text above.

Hi Steve. Yes you will need some sort of recording software. Audacity is excellent for this sort of thing but I guess other apps are available. Once installed, go into Preferences and select the line input as the recording source. Hit Record and you should see the input meters lighting up. From memory, you may need to select Monitor Thru in order to hear what you’re recording as it goes in. Good luck, GB

No, you can start the balancing process with the head shell and counterweight on the tonearm. I just thought it would be easier to introduce the various moving or detachable parts in this way.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for answering! Cheers from Greece@@gbaudio1212

Thanks for your kind comments. What you are doing there with the slide lever is engaging the machine in edit mode: the tape is brought up to the heads and you can wind the spools manually to find the point in the tape which you want to edit. With the head guard open, you can accurately mark the tape ready for cutting.

Strange, I've never encountered that issue before. I would try removing the platter and drive belt and let the motor run for a while without a load. Check if the motor runs in the correct direction.

Thank you for your response.Really it is a very different issue from the various issues of tt.I removed platter but without removing the main rubber belt ,I observed that the inner plate would rotate in the correct direction and then would stop momentarily and then rotate in the reverse direction.Really it is quite intriguing.I think that it will require the change of motor and the power pcb of the unit.But unable to find the same.

That sounds like the micro switch for the motor is stuck in the ON position, not uncommon with decks which have not been used for a while. The micro switch is under the deck and it engages with the tonearm when in the rest position. A little squirt of switch cleaner should free it.