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Been there. Done that. 😁

It could have, but the tail stock that I have only has a live center that isn't removable. But if I could install a chuck into the tail stock, one problem would be that the motorized chuck spinning the model isn't fast enough to drill quickly. It would be a long drilling operation. And as you mentioned the geometry, a regular drill bit would most likely leave a less desirable finish in the 'floor' of the tower, so maybe a flat end mill would be better. But then finding a flat end mill the perfect diameter to match the diameter of the cleanup cut to be made would probably be a problem too. But it's a good idea as it would save a ton of time and would certainly be worth a try. Thank you for watching!

Joseph, In my experience trying to sell these boards in our area, it's not a matter of it being saturated, but the mindset of the majority of people that live here who are willing to pay what these boards cost to make. There is a very small percentage that will pay you what the board is worth, not it's not enough to keep you busy. If I were to sell these, I would market them online to reach a broader customer base. Good luck!

Sorry, no. It is quite time consuming to make a complete set, and it wouldn't be cost effective to make these to sell. To be able to mass produce them, I would need to purchase more machinery and tools and it's way outside of my budget. Thank you for watching!

Yes, I have the 3Nm steppers on all axis. No, I didn't buy the 3Nm steppers due to the complaints of the smaller steppers. In fact, when I ordered the MASSO system from MASSO, I had not heard of the problems with those steppers, and had only heard of them right about the time that I was making this video. MASSO doesn't even sell the steppers that come with the Elite machine, the smallest stepper that MASSO offers (2Nm) is still more powerful than the Elite steppers. Between you and me, I believe that the Elite steppers are a 3rd party stepper that was outsourced just for the Onefinity machines and MASSO put their brand on it. But to answer your question, MASSO offers 2 steppers. 2Nm and 3Nm. The 3Nm is only $12 more than the 2Nm, so I just said, "What the heck?!", and ordered the 3Nm. They might be overkill for what I do, but I have no regrets. They have performed flawlessly. Thank you for watching!!

Remember that I used a 1/2" endmill to cut the dog holes... Feed rate was 50ipm and the spindle was 12k RPM. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the compliments! In reality, mounting your rotary axis on the X or Y axis will work fine either way. But I do have an opinion on which axis is better for it, and I choose the X axis. The reason being is that when you line your rotary to the X axis, the Y axis will always remain static during the cut. On most CNC machines, the X axis only has one stepper that moves the gantry because it is much lighter and the Y axis has 2 steppers that move the gantry because it is much heavier. If you mount your rotary on the Y axis, then the X axis remains static and the Y axis has to move back and forth to make the cut. Because it is heavier, and relies on 2 separate steppers to move and keep it in place, if your steppers aren't perfectly aligned with each other, and/or the machine isn't incredibly rigid you open up an opportunity for inaccuracies. Now, it can be argued that the same thing can happen on the X axis, and I agree that it could, but it's a far less chance than it would be with the Y axis. I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!!

@@MandSWoodworks Thank you so much for the quick reply! Makes sense to me now. I'm going to go with the X axis for rotary and vertical insert access. Now I just need to decide if I want t-track and dog holes? Or just dog holes? With the rotary you purchased off amazon, Its good to see that you can use the stepper motor that came with it? Do you know why so many others talk about swaping out the stepper for one of the Masso steppers? Is there a reason they do that? Does a closed loop stepper have any advantage over this stock motor for a rotary? Thanks Again!

@@KZ-1155 I've tried t-track and it works great, but like I mentioned in the video, there is more to maintain when you add variables to your waste board. It all depends on how much trouble you're willing to go through. I just wanted to point out that you can still have a method to hold down anything you want that was inexpensive and easy to maintain over the other options. No, I think changing out the stock stepper on the rotary to closed loop is overkill. The only benefit of closed loop is that it warns you if you skip steps. That is indeed a benefit on the gantry steppers because they can see high loads. But unless you plan to mill metal on your CNC, the stock rotary stepper is more than enough. I've used the stock stepper on my rotary since I bought it and it's been flawless. Check out my video showing me making a chess set and you'll see how will it does.

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks Again! I just realized I'm going with an ATC System. The tools will be sitting on the left side. I might need to stick with the Y axis for the rotary and vertical table insert, or lose a little of the width capacity of both if I use X? Not sure if I'll ever need the entire width? But I would hate to be wrong later down the line. My head is starting to hurt again.... lol

Hi Tracy, Sorry, no. I actually made this on the fly. Drawing up a waste board is incredibly easy to do, and is a great first project for you to take on. Use your CAD software to create bunch of circles in a pattern that you desire, and cut them on your waste board. The Dog Hole pattern I chose has the holes right at 3 1/8 inches apart from each other. I use 3/4 inch PVC and the brand that I bought, the OD of the pipe was 0.8 inches, so that is the size that I cut my dog holes. I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!

Screwing down the work is indeed the absolute best method, IMHO. But most of the stuff that I need to secure down is at least 1 to 2 inches thick, and sometimes thicker. And I usually have it cut down to the final dimensions already when cutting it and I don't want to damage it with screws or screw holes, so this has been my best option up until now. Thank you for watching!!

Thank you sir!!

Thanks buddy! I'm glad it helped! BTW, I have some news that I will share with you later. Happy Memorial Day!

Thank you! I use regular 3/4" PVC pipe. I have found that depending on the manufacturer, PVC pipe can have different OD measurements. Not by much, but enough to where they can be too loose or too tight in the hole you have cut, so I recommend that you measure the OD of the pipe that you have bought to make sure you get a snug fit. With that, and to answer your question, I cut my dog holes at 0.80 inches. It's not too tight to where they are difficult to push in, but not too loose that they don't hold a good edge when I press something up against them. I can push mine in, but i need pliers to pull them out, (but still very easy to remove) and I consider that perfect. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks for the info. I am researching all things CNC to try and figure out how I want to set up my first system. Thanks for the info,

What's happening, neighbor? Ask away pal. I'll help as much as I can. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks did you design your press yourself? I’m wanting to get/make one after my Onefinity gets delivered. Do you have any pictures of it? I have a local blacksmith I could use. Much love from the gulf coast.

@@patroncitron4128 My press is a Harbor Freight shop press. All I did was remove the hydraulic jack (because it was prone to leak down) and replace it with a scissor jack. I simply added some ply to use as a top and bottom platform to act as pressure plates. I used several pieces of ply on the top and bottom for strength so they wouldn't bow under pressure. I hope that this helps.

Yes, both the base and the inlay is end grain. No, end grain carves light years better than face/edge/side grain. Side grain is very difficult to get small details without tearing out. End grain is much more forgiving. And, no. I would not mix and match end grain to side grain. Over time as the wood moves (Expands and contracts) you risk it separating from each other. I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the compliment! Here is an Amazon link to the tape I prefer. This stuff is bad to the bone. Don't put too much or you risk breaking the work as you try prying it off the table. Thank you for watching! amzn.to/3R1IxHR

Hi Phillip! What problems are you experiencing? Downloads are made from this link almost daily with no issues. Let me know so I can try and get it fixed for you. Thank you for watching!

Super kind words! Thank you for the compliments and thank you for watching!

Thank you for your concern and thank you for watching!

The bit I used in this video isn't available anymore on Amazon, but here's one exactly like it. amzn.to/3wvExsg Thank you for watching!

Coincidentally, my next video will be about how I created my waste board. Hopefully I'll have it uploaded in the next week or so.

I think that you're the only person that picked up on that. 😁 Thank you for watching!

I thought that was quite funny

Thank you for the compliment! With my current setup, the turn around time in making a complete set is far too great, in my opinion where it would be cost effective to mass produce them. If I had a couple more machines, working non stop then maybe it would be worthwhile, but right now I'm not on that position. If I were able to do such, then for it to be successful, it would take serious marketing to get them advertised to the right folks who had the cash to spend on such things. Comparing this set to what I've seen online, and including the storage box I make for these (my part 2 video shows the storage box build) I would think they'd be around $1k+ per set.

This particular project wasn't 100 hours because I bought the Ship and Whale image that I used on the board, and it was already drawn in such a way that made it CNC friendly. I only added small details like the water and clouds and birds. But, had I not bought a graphic image that was already edited, combined with drawing and cutting time it would've easily been 100+ hours of time. And yes, to be compensated for my time I would have to charge a fair amount. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the compliment! I believe being a machinist takes much more skill, so you've sincerely made my day with your comment! Thank you for watching!

Gatekeepers are great

Guess that makes me a machinist too 😅

I use Vectric Vcarve. Saving gcode is the same for any operation you create. I'm not familiar with other software so of you're using anything other than Vectric, I'm sorry but I wouldn't be of any help.

Settings can vary on several things. I've got a couple more videos on the subject where I touch on settings. Check them out and if it doesn't answer your question, let me know and I'll try and give you a starting point to try. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks thanks - will do!

I dunno. I know some pretty smart bald guys. 😉

Thank you!! Here is a link to the machine that I use. Thank you for watching! www.onefinitycnc.com/product-page/journeymanelite