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Getting it connected on wifi is a pain. It requires you to use their app and a blue tooth connection. The app only works if you give it all sorts of access and getting blue tooth to work is a hail mary. I got it so far as the pairing menus on both ends, but then it failed. Why they didn't use SSID and pwd like everybody else is a mystery. Wish I knew this before I bought it.

When I clicked on this video, I thought, since when did Steve Wozniak start reviewing 3D printers?

And those are the reason i haven't bought one !!!

Great review and appreciate the honest (small) gripes. I’ve had an Ender 3 v2 (that I’m keeping) for the last year, and have learned a lot on it…but I just ordered the P1S combo and am really excited. Going to try and learn how to design my own prints/parts as well; and start experimenting with some other materials.

Bro shave that shit off your face

Thanks for this comparison. Great video. I would love to see what it would look like with a matte clear coat. Personally I don't love the shine. Also would it make any difference if the clear coat was done AFTER the engraving?

Can't help but wonder how printing the tees out of TPU would affect them 🤔

Hello "Rem Thompson's Maker Shed" I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?

I'm planing to make headphone cups as a business and want to have high quality prints but my budget is around 300 to 400. Still can't decide which one to get.

LOL "A now, a quick word from our sponsor...ME!!" LMAO thats exactly how it goes for majority of us. Nice Job

Hey Rem! Love your videos! Did you say you are also in Ohio?

love my K!C, got it a week ago, creality print 5.1 works well with so does Orca, everything has printed really well and fast, most people that mod their printers dont really know what they are doing and the blind lead the blind half the time, mines working great out of the box and i can concentrate on designing stuff rather than becoming a pretend printer mechanic.

Hi Rem. Greetings from Ireland. Easy to watch video, congrats. 3 questions though. 1 - Wud you tell me where in lightburn do i find the programme which does the speeds/feeds test slates. 2 - in that programne, do we set certain speeds and powers or is it all preset? 3 - i see most of the findings of the speed/feed test slate pointed towards using 100% power to get the whitest/blackest results. But I've read so many times over and over again that it's supposed to be bad for the diode to run it at 100% as it causes the diode to burn itself out in double quick time. Wud appreciate your thoughts on that theory. Keep up the good work. 👍

Nbr 4 by a country mile followed by nbr 3.

Good video and the ideas you gave are good. I did like the QR code idea as I do coasters for the resturant down the street and being able to call up thier menu is a great idea. I do like the look of the clear coated one the best, no sanding as I like the rustic look better. The laser your working on looks like a copy cat of the AtomStack A20 Pro which I have and just love.

Great video man I like how down to earth you are keep it real!

Good tutorial, thanks! I liked #1 best. Wonder if the horrible smell is from the clear cut?

OMG…..lol. The Ricky Bobby statement cracked me up. Love printing fidgets toys. Like you said they are good calibration test and of course my kids love them.

Interesting, I also printed a lot of fidgets recently and none of the ones I printed are what you printed. I will have to check some of these out.

Fidgets are always fun and neat how 3d printing has made it easy to make them. Encourage folks to do clearance test so they can have good fidget operation. Great video Rem.

Pcb way says my request violates international law.

Haven't caught any of your content recently glad your still at it man.

I’m pretty sure Rem and I are ADHD clones

The finger treads are awesome 😎 gotta try the tank benchy

Major thanks to this video's sponsor PCBWay! Get $5 off your first project by using our link to sign up: pcbway.com/g/0Q1JS1

I have this exact file printing right now. I’m praying that I have enough white pla left to finish off.

Thank you for the video. Couple things. One of the properties of slate that makes it a great choice for a coaster is that it can absorb moisture so that condensation doesn't pool, run off, and damage the surface it is on. Also, if you are going to remove this useful property by sealing it with a clear coat, you should probably do so after engraving because I'm guessing you have no idea what chemical reactions are happening when you burn the clear coat. But hey, your coasters look nice!

Best Sponsor plug I have ever seen!! Love it man!!

Thanks for the extra information.

2

Dang I almost ordered K1c other day… then read a lot of comments.. I back up.. still deciding which printer to get 😅

Love the one sided face cam 😂 boy has a good side

Where dan I get file

Machin price

Far better then the P1S in pretty much every way. In many ways it prints and competes with the X1C for quality and ability to print more difficult filaments. The pro even comes with hardened .6 nozzle for your glow in the darks, carbon fiber, and harder to print plastics. I can do nylons out of the box with some slight tuning or mods unlike the X1C where it cant keep the chamber temp up because it leaks so bad without modifications (like the AMS there are parts you can print to fix the issues). the bad- The rear spool holder is stupid. It feels a bit cheap but, well, it is in both good and not great ways. Then again it doesn't feel like its over compensating and including premium materials that harm performance just cuz. Touch screen isn't bad... but it isn't good. I feel like some light scaling tweaks could work around the small size. Wouldn't be an issue if it was capacities but at least they did a high quality resistive. The webcam is actually fine, just they don't apply any good post processing to clean it up (klipper mod fixes it right up). They could fix this too via software update I really hate using the slicers and controls they offer. Its hot garbage but its a copy of bambu's services and slicer stratagy... which is hot garbage. Again klipper mod makes it usable and open. Now I can use standard orca or whatever to print to it over the network. Could use some light tuning... but for this price I don't expect the insane tuning work Prusa does for instance. Replacement nozzles and some things you have to order off the site or Aliexpress. Similar to Bambu in its first year of existence. Not amazing my takeaway- A lot of whats bad you get is a cost reduced P1* X1* with some nice quality of life fixes (better nozzle swap and they actually nicely sealed up the chamber) out of the box. Sure there is no AMS but that solution hasn't really kept up with the market anyways (from a reliability and material waste standpoint). Did I mention my exotic nylon doesn't warp... for 500 USD. *squees*

Just some advice, If you are gonna make a review video, show the actual machine. Cheers!

This machine is the best with the klipper mod, and the regular version is an awesome budget printer the pro version is a little bit overpriced especially with the outrageously overpriced nozzles, and printing your own enclosure with the regular version is very simple easy and a lot less expensive especially when they offer the acrylic doors and drag chain for a decent price

your own flair? you mean the dark link version? lol

I've been using the magic mill MFD 7700 for drying my filament and it's been great. I also have a polymaker polydryer I keep near my A1 Mini. I really like the drybox the polydryer comes with. That one uses a bowden tube as well, but I always cut those down so they're not so long. Only a few cm is needed really. I only print in PLA, PETG and TPU; PETG and TPU get dried fresh out of the package and then stored in a sterilite gasket box with desiccant when I'm not printing with them. PLA I dry if it becomes brittle. I've seen this happen most often with PLA+. I do like how compact the Nt1 is, but it has the same problem a lot of these dryers have: hot spots. This one blows air directly on the filament, which can cause it to warp/melt. This has been mentioned in a few other reviews. I'm also not a fan of the lid. The magic mill food dehydrator and polydryer don't have these issues. Honestly, the food dehydrator is still my favorite. It moves more air, is quiet (way bigger fan so it doesn't need to spin as fast), gets plenty hot and has plenty of ventilation. Reviews of any kind are appreciated, but please don't be afraid to point out flaws of the products you review. It puts your integrity into question if every product receives a positive review, especially those that have been reviewed and felt lacking by others.

The 5M Pro is a good printer, not great. Too many small issues to make it a viable competitor to the P1S, even though the P1S is $100 more. You get a LOT more for that $100 than you'd think. Bigger build volume, smoother user experience, cheaper hotends, bambu's proven reliability, etc. If the 5M Pro was around $400 it would be more competitive. At $500 though, they're in the bambu waters, and the bambu sharks are hungry... edit: Excellent review btw. Very detailed and well presented.🍻

Is there a way to make the tee softer at the top or halfway through the print so it bends and absorbs the club more? has some flex to it?

Nice. I really like my AD5M. Printed the enclosure for it. Easy to load filament for sure. I added the camera too. The Orca Slicer profiles were actually committed to Orcaslicer by FlashForge. I have no idea why they forked the entire thing. I haven't tried Flash Orca yet or the app because the android version is just an apk and not submitted to the play store. Otherwise great printer.

Great fun video Rem!

In my experience, this is completely unnecessary and a waste of money. It is not faster than if you simply hold the soldering iron in your hand, and it is even more inconvenient. This can be used if you use an insert where the lamellae are not screwed, i.e. the cheaper version. The more difficult it is to keep the perpendicular. But if you put it in an object whose other side is not parallel to the top of the hole, then it will only be a pain. The solution is to buy a good type of insert, which is slightly more expensive, but due to the twisted lamellae, it is more difficult to slide out. it's easier to insert because it's designed that way. You can buy kits in which you get a soldering iron and these inserts. Recently, I saw a good technique on RUclips that can be used well. allow the insert to sink in until the upper ring, and then you can press it in further with a larger screw ground flat, or by turning it on the table. However, you have to make sure that the pad is still warm enough! It's a simple soldering iron, that's why the temperature was set to 320 degrees, it wasn't invented for these, it can only be used for this. In the youtube video, the guy made such a tool for himself, grinding an old bad soldering tip to the right size. 👍

Hey i am interested in the 3d printing hobby and i was wondering what is a good way to start P.S i dont know if i have enough money for it thought.

Hey i am interested in the 3d printing hobby and i was wondering what is a good way to start P.S i dont know if i have enough money for it thought.

Hey i am interested in the 3d printing hobby and i was wondering what is a good way to start P.S i dont know if i have enough money for it thought.

Hey, I am interested in the hobby of 3d printers and I really enjoy your content, but I wish I was in time for the give away 😢

My husband and I just bought the P1S, so I was looking for some beginner guidance and came across this. I am someone who feels a lot of guilt when spending money but also I believe in paying a little more to make sure I get the best product for me. This makes me feel so much better about our choice to wait and save for this one rather than just buying a $150 one on Amazon. I hope to print a lot of “nerdy” trinkets so seeing yours makes me so happy!

colors look nice but 2 issues, the point of PET-G is higher temp with out going to ABS and the other is the high price, I'd pay 20-25 for exotic colors but 30+ is just too high.