Видео

Not sure, I didn't run mine with the sensor disconnected, I didn't think the computer would be happy with no signal? Do you have an OBD reader to check the codes? Assuming the sensor is nice and dry, it's probably worth checking the connectors are fully snapped in place they can be a bit stiff. If the computer has been compensating for no signal it might take a little for it to re-find an optimal air fuel mix? I can see similar symptoms for other cars: www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/253165-maf-cleaned-car-now-stalls.html www.reddit.com/r/mazda/comments/xflxbt/car_wont_idle_after_cleaning_maf_sensor/

Its in the tank as part of the pump assembly. Not a part of regular service. Only to be serviced if you get fuel of low quality.

@@andersskjoldager-gregersen3240 The same answer is given to me from different mechanic workers. Thanks for the answer.

Hello, It still runs well but we don't use it as much now both the kids can cycle. I've used to for getting to work a few times (~13mi each way, no trailer), it adds a noticeable weight compared to my other bike so it's 50/50 on the benefit. I've not noticed a range decrease on the battery though.

@@CraigManning Thank you very much for the information 👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks 👍

¡Gracias! Sí, se necesitan algunos ajustes :)

Hi, not sure. The drain is very close to the bottom so I'd hope that a few liters of flow would take the lighter stuff with it. I know people who would flush through a couple of liters of clean oil - letting it run straight out, but I've only ever done that on a vehicle of unknown service history.

Because a Ford Mondeo is a very decent car? There are also a lot of differences between an X type and a Mondeo, including such things as front and rear suspension.

@geoffkendall2006 I haven't driven the Mondeo but the x-type was a lot of fun. Pokey enough to be exciting when conditions allow and pretty enough that even Audi's give way 🤣

Only 19% parts commonality with the mondeo. And the mondeo had one of the best mass-produced chasis.

Hello, Mine have always sounded the same afterwards?? Was there an unusually low level before you drained it or was it thick and sludgy? Oh, the red warning!? If you've refilled the level OK it should disappear after a few seconds. If it's stays on and your engine doesn't sound right turn it off quick and recheck everything. I reset the service warning once everything is good yes. All the best :)

@@CraigManning Thank u so much!

Hi Dan, I think most newish engines have a breather on the crank case so it's maybe not as big a difference as it once was. If you are having the oil glug when draining it's probably is useful though.

1.9l in mine, but it's worth a check of the manual as different fuel and engine size will have different ammounts.

Yes, mine does. I think it should start moving the vanes more as revs increase. Potential causes of the error are the vanes getting stuck from gloop , a mechanical failure of the actuator... Or one leading to the other.

Cool! What changes were you making?

Hi Hasan, I don't have the files saved but I'm guessing I'd have done it at 100% or fairly close. My cura profile has 6 top and bottom layers and the thickness of the flat bits is ~24 layers... so given it would only be 12 layers out of 24 it probably doesn't make too much difference 😄 That said, I don't get any noticeable flex while typing, I can see a little flex if I deliberately push down much harder than typing pressure.

@@CraigManning thanks a lot! 🙂 Now it's a little clearer that I should go the full print way. The flex issue was my concern but if you don't have a problem like that it's good to hear.

Glad it was useful, all the best with your build!

Thanks :)

Yep. It says not to rev while you spray, you have to do a Goldilocks amount as too much will choke it.

​​@@CraigManningwhat does Goldilocks amount mean? I'm going to do this at the weekend

@@LiamSpeak-p2i Not too much, not too little - you'll be able to hear when you put too much in.

Hi, not that I know of. I did have a look a the time but nothing leap out.

Glad it helped 👍

Unfortunately I just asked the guy in the shop and his computer knew :) Sounds about right though, this thread has some part numbers: www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/498601-crush-washer-size-doing-oiloil-filter-change/

Hi, If the turbo is dirty and the vanes can't move it certainly won't do the actuator any good, but if you disconnect the actuator arm and turning on or rev'ing the engine doesn't make the arm move then I think the actuator is probably the first place to start looking. ruclips.net/video/829xW562TaU/видео.html I think this one shows the arm movement better than my video ~2:30 minutes in and the whole thing is a much better diagnosis for actuator problems - if you can move the mechanical part of the turbo cleaning is probably not going to help.

@@CraigManning Hi, thanks for the response, I disconnected the linkage but the arm still doesn't move. What should I do ?

@@mhladen2157 new actuator seems a good bet. Does the mechanical side move freely?

​@@CraigManning You mean the linkage? I sprayed a little bit of wd40 now it's like butter.

​@@CraigManning What do you think if I remove the turbo and clean it thoroughly, I only sprayed one can (200ml) of wynn turbo cleaner, you said yours needed 2 to work right, maybe It could fix it ?

Я не знал, что это был переключатель, когда я начал. Лампу и контакты легко проверить и это более вероятная проблема :)

Glad it was useful! Have fun building 👍

Ah excellent! That's what I had for a while. For a Pi set up something like this: www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/hifiberry-amp2/ would work as an amp. I found power was a problem. I used one of these: amzn.to/3FFpVbD to get a clean 5v from the potentially noisy 12v car aux line. However my aux line turns of when I start the car, so it would power on, start to boot then the power would cut. Could be solved with a battery or something? Currently I use a Pioneer GM-D1004 amzn.to/3UfuI7G and a bluetooth adapter to connect my phone.

@@CraigManning Thank you for the speedy response. I've almost finished the planning process, with only a few wrinkles left to iron out. During the last few hours, I was able to find a dac+amp similar to the one you just sent: www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Full-HD-Class-D-Amplifier-Expansion/dp/B01CFZYMYM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1GSR5CTVOIBPF&keywords=rpi+x400+amp&qid=1667406702&sprefix=rpi+x400+amp%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1 If that link provides a viable option, I'd rather use that as it is significantly cheaper (although the reviews are far from promising). Is there any other advice you can provide me given that we use the same car?

@@markjagodzinski1850 That looks like it would do the job. I wouldn't call my build a success but it kinda worked for a bit😂 I used one of these: amzn.to/3SYxu03 and the standard pi touch screen.... If i remember correctly the screen is almost the same height and a bit narrower than this bezel. The breakout cable would allow connection of a standard stereo or an easier means to get power out and put signal in 😀 Happy building, hope it goes well!

Hi, i would like to build something similar, any advice or how manual you could provide would be of great help.