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It does!

Glad I could help! I'm always happy to see new subscribers!

I wrote too quick. YOu answered my question

Glad to help :)

Sometimes I like to let the heat press hover over a print before pressing. Or you can let it sit on the side a bit before pressing. A Teflon sheet or wax sheet helps prevent the ink from sticking off when pressing too

Usually 75/11 for almost everything

Stahls'!!!

The optimal option is a laser cutter but either way, good ventilation is key

Haven't seen anybody have success with this on a Mac :/

Hats are a pain for sure. If you're still having issues with these tricks, it could be something more complex like the timing could be slightly off or the hoop is too high off of the needle plate. Both of these can cause the needle to break. If the timing is off, it may not be as noticeable on flats but can be worse on caps. Also, if the cap frame is too high from the needle plate, there can be excess deflection causing the needle to crash and break. Can be different for all machines but possibly worth looking into! Best of luck-

For this one I used Dream Digitizing!

Just default density. I don't remember this one exactly, but I kept it the same as for shirts. It could have been a little more dense to help fill but they still came out great!

On the Melco, I have it automatically upload to a shared folder that the computer connected to the Melco has access to. For other machines, you will need to use a USB drive to transfer the file from the computer to the embroidery machine.

Stand 40 weight thread!

@@LovesBranding 0.40?

@@LovesBranding and how i can get it the sanme material

The actual version is a Merrow stitch which is done on Merrow branded machines. They can be very expensive and only do one thing but they do it very well. To replicate it on the embroidery machine, I call it a faux or fake merrow edge since it's not really the same thing but looks very similar.

Thank you! Cheers!

You're most welcome. Thanks for watching :)

I think its PVC!

I forget on this one, but I do show the Actifeed settings in some of my other videos!

The EMT16X is a goat! But so is the Bravo. The main difference is the limitations. I'm not entirely sure of the Bravo X since it is different than the Bravo I have. If you want to make sure you can do pretty much everything and anything, EMT16X is the way to go. The sew field and hoop sizes are typically smaller on the Bravo. In my opinion, if you are looking to spend that much, go ahead and get the EXT16X so you don't have to worry about these things.

Settings matter but vary between different machines. These tricks work for most machines!

@@LovesBranding I understand that. I have the same machine you do. That is why I asked.

​@@jacquelinerojas1722 I've since sold the Melco and got a Barudan!

Great to hear, glad it helped!

Great to hear!

I bought the premade file from fullerembroideryworks.com/ but if you look up Faux Marrow Edge Embroidery, I'm sure you can find some other options!

Make sure you are using the correct side of the film. If you are, then you may need to dial back how much white ink is printing. The default setting for 100% is too much. 30-50% is good but it may take some testing.

You want to use a foam font or get your file created for foam. The main reason is because you want the threads to be a lot more dense than standard to help keep the foam from showing through the threads.

Thank you very much!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

You can make a patch with two layers so if you only embroider the front then layer it and finish with the border, you will not see the stitches on the back!

I no longer have the same machine so I cannot help you :( I'm sorry

For me, I would get some crystalizing if I had too much pretreat when trying to dry it with a heat press. I wouldn't use an excess amount but there is more of a wiggle room than people thing there is. Just takes some testing!

@@LovesBranding would you agree that a slow curing by means of heat would eliminate the crystallization? ( i.e. hot air).

@@websurfer2344 Could definitely test it, I didn't like air drying because it left the shirt feeling super starch-y. I have a friend that throws them through the dryer to evaporate the water in the pretreat but would still need to heat press before printing for the smoothest surface.

Ah yeah, I got lucky that it came apart. You could always try a patch and heat press it on or head rest seat covers to embroider onto that but it loses the OEM look.

I'm not sure :(

Glad you enjoyed it!

I'm not entirely sure on volume of shirts but for an estimate, my cost on ink per shirt was anywhere between $2-6. Depends on how big the designs were and how much white is in the design!

If you're having issues printing white ink, your ink line might be clogged.

The machines are so expensive :,(

If you are good mechanically and are comfortable working on machines, it MIGHT be. BUT I would honestly say no because there are so many small electronics and pieces that it would be easy to mess it up. Having Epson out to repair is roughly $3k+. The new ones are expensive but comes with the warranty and can be extended so you don't have to worry about it at all.

The best method is with testing on a sample shirt. What I do is test different amounts and cover up different parts of the shirt so I can test 3-4 different amounts on a single shirt. Then print it and cure to see which amount works best!