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@@1959nickd Chevy's actually aren't very bad. Do you mean Chrysler? That i can agree with, but it's not very common and usually isn't an issue.

@thomasward4505 So, rod length dictates crank counter weight size in some cases. The best explanation i have is with Small Block Chevy. If you buy an aftermarket SBC crank that is made for 6" rods, the counter weights are bigger (taller, longer, however you want to explain it) to allow for easier balancing by adding more mass to counter balance the heavier rod and lighter piston. Using 5.7" rods in that case, will cause the pistons to hit the counter weights at BDC causing a major interference issue. In this case, Scat offered a crank with counter weights that would accept, at minimum, a 6.8" long rod. You can go longer on the rod, but not shorter. I went with a longer rod for a ton of beneficial performance and longevity reasons, but Scat did not offer this crank for a 7.1" rod length. Again, in this case, it did not cause a balancing issue as the crank was able to be balanced without adding heavy metal to it. I have a video posted about crank balancing and another about rotating assembly balancing. Hope that explains it.

@thomasward4505 Once you decide on a direction and know all the parts you picked will fit the engine you are building, balancing the assembly is just something you have to deal with when/if it becomes an issue. If you regularly build engines with relatively same dimensions, you'll know what it will need at balancing. I do not regularly build big block stroker Chryslers, so i just had to see how it balanced out and dealt with it after the fact. Typically, there are a few ways to deal with it and you just do what has to be done. That may involve adding heavy metal to the crank (which can get pricey) or using a different balancer or flywheel/flexplate. I like to internally balance everything I build if budget will allow it as it is better from a performance and longevity stand point. This engine will end up as an internally balanced unit because between reciprocating vs rotating weight, it actually ends up being lighter than a factory 440 would have been, hence the reason for using big block Chevy rods that are longer.

Got it.

It's outside under the carport, but yes, I agree ...

​@Intution Not sure what video you are watching, but it surely isn't this one. Are you watching the video of the woman that kills and eats the cat in the driveway?

@jarmominkkinen9409 You are asking about Canadian Chrysler Crate Engines? Do I understand that right? Are they new castings? Honestly, I don't know Chrysler as well as I know Chevy or Ford. Can you give me more info? I doubt they are using the old castings from the 70's and 80's for their big blocks, but I really don't know ... more info would be helpful.

@thomaslynch2083 Good to hear and imagine that ... aftermarket parts not fitting right, that NEVER happens, lol. The Right Stuff is definitely some killer sealer and good luck if you have to take it apart again. It's more like super glue for metal. As far as cleaning gasket surfaces, I just use lacquer thinner (preferred) or brake kleen because they dry quickly and leave no residue. Then i use ultra gray Permatex where needed. Why i use ultra gray is a long story, but any "ultra" silicone will work. The only reason they still make the non-ultra silicone is because old school guys still buy and use it and last I knew, it was still their all-time best seller. I used to attend Permatex's trainings/sales pitches once a year. The Ultras far supercede the old stuff.

@Jpaydirt Ha, I've been waiting for this question. I have a sonic tester, but I didn't bother to check it. Here's why ... #1- I didn't have multiple 440 blocks to pick from, we were lucky to have found this one. #2- I bought my sonic tester for another job after half of this machine work was already in progress. It was magnafluxed before we started at the owner's insistence. Don't get me started on the magnaflux scam to make money. #3- It came from a running motor home and should be OK, it's only at .030 over bore, not .060. The majority are fine. #4- When these blocks fail under high power, it is usually the main webbing, not the cylinders and I filled the bottom of the coolant jackets to offer a little more support to both. #5- I can always sleeve a cylinder if it would crack down the road, but I am not counting on having to do it. Should I have sonic tested it before we started? Yes. But, then we'd be looking for another block that may not be much better ... so, after weighing the above options, I didn't do it and decided some things are better left alone. A cracked cylinder can be fixed if needed, it would suck, but it's not the end of the engine.

@@Phil454LSX Oh, I wasn't thinking about cracking...........but they might over time I guess , I was wondering more about budging under high HP and firing pressure going past the rings, but if it's making good power you have a good block

@Jpaydirt Good points. It's a factory block, it's going to move a bit, they all will. Some more than others. If you want to correct that, you need an aftermarket block or fill it a lot higher than I did. I filled this one up to the bottom of the core plugs. You could always go higher for better stability, but you risk cooling capacity on the street, especially on hot days. How much is too much for the street? I don't know, but when it's a paying job, I try to play it safe as I don't want it coming back with cooling issues that I can't fix once it is filled. I probably could've went higher but would've had to put core plugs in and make cleaning it a chore. As far as ring seal goes, I am using Total Seal's gas ported piston rings which will help with seal and minimize blow by on the compression stroke and it was torque plate honed. On another note, I built a 1995 factory block LT1 small block Chevy many years ago that made over 1000 horse on a 300+ nitrous shot and it saw some hard drag use. When taking it apart for a refresh, the block was still in very good condition. I chalk that one up to luck.

@Jpaydirt It's not finished yet, but with the exception of moving the cylinder bores to their correct locations, it is a blueprinted machined block. Will things move around under power and heat? Probably. How much? I don't know, but it will stay together. I think you might be over thinking things, there's a lot you COULD do, but consider your budget at the same time ...

@Zeek800 The car has 142k (30k miles and more than 1 year later) on it and no issues. I keep telling you "check valve" guys that it is fine and after lasting 30k miles for $130? I'll do the same fix again in an hours time and not waste money on an intake and half a day to put it on. I am also not putting some hodge podge PCV valve rerout kit on it that may or may not work. I'm not in love with this car and have already kept it longer than I wanted to.

@stevenberta940 LMAO, purely by feel? ... yup, you can definitely get skewed readings that way from one person to the next or your mood that day. Your hands and everyone's who works with you must be certified by NASA, right? 🤣🤣🤣 Why do you think they have a ratchet on them? After locking the mic, it gets checked against a Sunnen dial bore guage, so what is the lock issue? I love how you try to claim facts with no backing. These are probably one of the best micrometers in the business of measuring, are you using Central? If so, I totally understand and can debunk your comment. BTW, i did work in an industry where the measurements mattered down to the 10,000th of an inch. How I hold a mic? Did you ever consider that I am making a video and only using one hand? Probably not, know-it-alls and armchair quarterbacks never do. If you are measuring to the nearest 10,000th and the employees are allowed to go by "feel" of the mic, you should start looking for another job because your company won't be in business much longer. Also, if you want pin-point accuracy (as you say and better than 10,000ths) you should be measuring in millimeters, not thousandths.... obviously, whatever industry you are in is not pin point accurate, otherwise, there would be no "feel" of the employees involved and you'd be measuring in metric. On top of that, you should have much better equipment than mics to measure with ... Your comment has been duly noted and ignored. When you can make an intelligent comment that actually sounds like you know what you are talking about, maybe we can discuss. This comment is just troll trash.

Thanks for watching the build. Yes, i will be doing the full assembly on this engine. Right now, i am taking a break to build a new, kick A**, engine stand for it (video coming soon). To answer your question, if the cap install was done correctly, the majority of the material was removed from the caps and minimal from the block and there should be no issue with alignment or leaks. Yes, it is very hard to check that on assembly and i mostly trust that my machine shop did the job correctly. I have been using this guy for 20+ years and he is well respected, i think we are good. To answer your other question, i bought a Mancini Racing billet rear main housing with poly seals, part no. MRE223. I don't f**k around with fitting and cutting rope seals. Too much wasted time making a rope seal fit and then crossing your fingers that it is good. Stay tuned, i'll be installing it soon.

Its getting to be an effort in spending money these days. It amazes me to look back at when i started building engines to what it costs now to build one. I couldn't imagine building a competition engine these days for less than $100k. Too rich for me.

@Phil454LSX It is crazy how much it costs. Availability is even worse. Just fuel to get us through the season is out of hand. Hats off to anyone diving into this.

@@ronzezulka6646 There are less and less people doing this Sh*t. Hence, machine shops going out of business right and left. I love building and doing it on the side, but as i lose more and more trusted shops to retirement and bankruptcy, i will pack it up too. Its easier and cheaper to buy a crate engine or a used one.

@@ronzezulka6646 i got into the machining and engine building business when i was 18. I have learned A LOT through my years and this 440 customer has stuck with me since day one. I stick by him and always try to hook him up. I have engine dyno tuning experience and chassis dyno tuning experience as well as Nitrous, SCT and Hondata training. Its just getting out of hand to build cars and engines these days. This business is getting too out-of-hand to continue in it anymore. Don't be surprised if my channel shifts to BBQ and smoking meats. This will probably be one of the last engines i build for awhile, although, i do have a 340 on the horizon.

@@Phil454LSX Lol,,,I left the drag racing world years ago. I now own a restaurant/bar that specializes in smoker meats.

First, let me say, i don't disagree and i am not arguing. I mentioned "smooth" balancing in the video or the previous video, which is what you are referencing. Its not so much a harmonic issue as it is a windage issue in the crankcase. It costs A LOT more money to do it your way and is not widely done in applications like this. Sure, there are better ways to do things, but at what expense? and what is the ultimate gain, does the gain justify the cost in the situation? I could use Swain Tech to coat all of this engine's internal parts and blow over $1k doing it, does it really matter that much with a block that is constricted to 750 horse? I'll make the threshold horsepower and not blow tons of money doing it. This engine will see 6500 RPMs at the most and not often. Hardly considered high RPMs these days as NASCAR engines turn 9000 rpm all day long at the track for hours. This is not a "race" engine and we are somewhat trying to stick to a budget and reduce costs based on the application. While i'd love to spend 1000's on it, it is limited by the block and we need to keep our heads out of the clouds. Its an 80% street / 20% 1/4 mile track engine.

I'm not sure i understand your question. But, yeah, you have problems going on .... an RB20DE, is that a Nissan engine? I assume so if you are talking about valve cover D seals. Thats an OHC thing for valve covers. Pouring coolant in the radiator shouldn't have anything to do with oil leaking out of your D seals. You have much bigger problems going on.

Thanks. For the money, they should sing and dance too.

Oh Man, one of my buddies had a CJ7 (I think) at one time with a 304 in it, he said it was a death trap, lol. Also said that it would chirp the giant tires in all 4 gears and you could feel it squat and twist every time. So, this engine was originally going into a '64 Dodge 330 when we started, but he sold the car. At the moment, the plan is to put it into a '71 Dodge Demon ... The Red Screamin' Demon built into a super stock car back in the '70's by Petty Enterprises, to be exact. Yes, he bought THAT car. If you are a Mopar guy, then you know it, or you can google it. The owner is a huge classic drag nostalgia buff. The Demon is at or is going to the body shop to have the engine compartment sprayed and touched up and we are looking at a Fall-ish return. I hope to be finished by then or shortly after. I don't have access to a dyno anymore and I don't think he'll be spending the money to dyno it. I have some stand alone wideband O2's that we will use to dial it in, fuel wise. The heads are a set of Aluminum Trick Flow Power Port 270's and I have a high rise dual plane Indy intake for it, but we may switch to a single plane now that the car has changed and he has more hood clearance. The cam will be a custom grind, but nothing has been decided on as far as manufacturer, roller or flat tappet. We are seeing some guys breaking these blocks at the 750+ horsepower threshold. We bought the block from a Mopar nut that I know and he warned us of the 700+ threshold (he said) and he was a Mopar machinist for Ray Barton. It may get a main girdle before it starts going together or it will just live somewhat of a detuned life. The plan is 80% street time, 20% track time. I leisurely work at it as I have time. I have this thing called a full time job that takes away from my side work and projects but new videos will come as I progress. I plan to post a video of the first start and running when it is done. That is the plan, anyway. Stay Tuned and thanks for watching.

@@Phil454LSX Well I guess you could call me a Mopar guy, have owned one 426 Hemi in a 67 satellite, dana 60 4/speed, one 67 GTX 375 hp auto, then swapped for a sixpack set up, one 68 Monaco 350 hp 440 auto, one 66 satellite 340 4/speed or basically all Mopar's with a few exceptions. Currently own a 66 satellite, not sure what is going in it when I get the money to build what I want, if I could hit the lottery, it would be a 426 Hemi w/5 speed standard. I only have three 340's, 7 383's, 7 440's, 3 400's, 1 360 Magnum, 1 360 la roller, 3 360 la, 1 318 la, 1 318 roller and 1 5.7 hemi in my 07 ram and 1 5.7 hemi in my 09 300c. Yea I guess you could call me a Mopar guy. My CJ5 is slightly modified; after straightening the frame I boxed it, built the cross member for the engine went outside the frame for the spring mounts, J20 Axles w/lockers front and rear, alloy axles in the front, disc all around, np435 granny gear tranny, dana 300 transfer case, shorty headers two in and two out 2.5-inch flow master muffler, four-inch lift, tie rod behind the axle, etc. I am retired for 18 years and counting so things get done as money becomes available. Doesn't help that I have five other vehicles either. Hope to see some videos of that Demon at the strip!

@@stephenwest798 Yeah, i'd call you a Mopar nut, lol ... I'm a Chevy guy myself with a '72 Vette, '71 Trans Am, '79 Z28 and my latest is a '63 Impala that i want to put a Duramax in. V6 fuel mileage with big block power. If this economy doesn't turn around, i'll never finish anything. BUT, for side work, i'll do whatever comes my way and has cash backing it. I had to turn away a 2017 supercharged 5.0 litre Mustang engine because i had already started on this 505. The Muskrat video is in my shorts. Big engine jobs like this 505 don't make me much money, i don't lose, but i'm not getting rich. My favorite jobs to do are 5-valve VW/Audi cylinder heads that broke their timing belts. I bought special tools to reassemble them and shops charge tons to do them, i can under cut them by a few hundred and still pocket a lot of money doing them. My VW/Audi customers love me. My full time job just gets in my way, but that is a guaranteed living, so doing automotive work takes a back seat. I could go on and on about a business and equipment and my hate for the automotive business, but i won't bore you. I was in automotive since i was 17 and spent 23 years doing it. Mostly engine machining, building, manual transmissions, rears and towards the end i taught it all along with PCM tuning. I abandoned it all 7 years ago for a better career in building maintenance management with big companies and i'll never go back to an automotive career.

Unfortunately, the owner passed away before it was finished. His daughter has it at the shop in Maryland that built the engine to be tuned and fixed. They have it for sale as we speak.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. I'd like to hit the lottery too and would have a lot more toys also, but we both have a better chance of being struck by lightning.

Just uploaded the wrap up to the internal assembly balance.

@@Phil454LSX Thank you, I will check it out.

Just posted a new video on balancing the internal parts.

Just uploaded 2 videos to follow up on the internal assembly balance within the past 2 weeks. Hope you enjoy.

Why do you use Chevy con rods?

@@danieljacobson5774 They are lighter compared to factory Mopar size rods, they are more readily available and cheaper than BB Mopar rods. A big block chevy rod has a much lighter big end than a Mopar rod and you also lighten up the crank by using a big chevy rod journal size. Its a common practice among Mopars, as much as the Chrysler nuts hate to admit using Chevy parts.

Ugh, another intake PCV whiner ... The car has 25,000 miles on it since the fix that was almost a year ago. No noise, no engine light and runs good. For the amount of time I plan on keeping it, if it fails again, another $100 is fine with me rather than wasting the time and money on doing an intake or some Mickey Mouse by-pass system ...

@@Phil454LSX I am in no way whining. If that your justification to get by, by no means is anyone judging. I am just explaining the situation to get to the root cause , and correction. We all here to learn, and your video has value. People like yourself help the community. I learned the hard way, and I was sharing my experience to potentially help someone else in the future. The PCV system in these vehicles is not typical, and in many ways is flawed by design. Replacing the valve cover alone is not the fix. Removing the intake to correct the issue fully can be challenging, but not impossible. There are multiple videos out there explaining the removal process so that the issue can be rectified indefinitely. The 1.4L engine has its issues, and this issue is just one of the many issues it has. With good people in the community we can keep these vehicles going. It’s a great challenge, and once the common issues are fixed they are good running engines.

The PCV valve is part of the valve cover, part no. 55573746 and the line is 25193343. Buy GM parts, not the cheap Dorman replacements.

I checked that too, but mine were tight. I was hoping it would've been that easy.

Head gasket leak

Well, more than 12k miles on it and no issues. You guys replacing intakes are wasting your time and money.

@@Phil454LSX the valve cover usually fails after the intake, and a new intake will fail again and again until you bypass the check valve

@@jayway8612 Is bypassing the check valve a GM reccomended repair? The valve cover has lasted over 13k miles. Replacing the intake or putting on some Mickey Mouse bypass is a waste of time and money.

@@Phil454LSX just replacing valve covers doesnt fix the problem tho

@@jayway8612 Its been fixed for coming up on 14k miles and 6 months now ... you can argue all you want, but it is still working. AND, is that Bypass a GM reccomended repair or just some BS dreamed up on a forum? If you are using junk Dorman replacement parts, I can see where you are coming from, they fail all the time, but original GM parts fixed this. 6 months, 14k miles ... argue that. Even if it would fail (doubt it) at 15k, I'll do this again to avoid wasting my time and money on an intake or a Mickey Mouse "by-pass" that some forum told you about. I plan to trade this thing in soon and buy a Corolla that gets better mileage.

That's probably the best explanation there is. Why did it make the funny noise only at idle? The turbo inlet couldn't have been pulling much of a vacuum at idle and it seemed to go away under a load. Maybe I just couldn't hear it while driving. Obviously, it was causing other problems too, since it took driving it to bring back ALL of the codes ...

Yeah, I'm a Chevy guy but not the old SBC's ... this car will smoke any SBC you have ... bring it ... lol.

@@Phil454LSX how about a twin turbo 421 sbc in a Monza putting out 1xxx Hp?

​​​@@nickboucher7339Believe it when I see it. Especially, since twin turbos are a waste of $$$ unless you just want to say "I have twin turbos and more $$$ to burn than you", but you can bring it to the road course or some long, straight roads, even curvy roads and see how it does against this Muskrat. This car would look a lot different if it was built to only go a 1/4 mile at a time. Hopefully, will have some dyno vids of it getting tuned soon. You are right, it won't make 1*** horse, but I'd bet it leaves that Monza behind on the road, if it exists.

I don't doubt it. I already own my set so I don't regularly keep up on the prices. I just base it on my last look. In this day and age, I'm not surprised if I am way off.

I first noticed it on a Sunday, wasn't sure what it was. Checked it for leaks and drove it to work on Monday (100 miles, there and back with my fingers crossed). Figured it out Monday night, drove it to work on Tuesday and Wednesday. Went on Vacation Thursday, but didn't drive it. Ordered the parts from Amazon on that last Wednesday at work and they showed up in a couple days while i was gone. Fixed it when I got back. All in total, I put about 300 miles on it before I fixed it. It didn't run too bad, mostly the noise was just annoying and the engine light wouldn't go out. It just turned 123k this week and I fixed it around 112k. No issues since the fix.

It wasn't there and there was no place for one to be there, just a straight through hose nipple. Heard all about it, but it wasn't on this one. Supposedly, it's a check valve, but the line had a check valve in it. It's been over 4 months and more than 10k miles and the noise hasn't come back at all. At this point, there is no justification to spend the money or time to replace the intake manifold and the belt tensioner has absolutely nothing to do with it. There's a difference in buying GM parts over the aftermarket Dorman parts. In fact, I'll do the same job again IF it goes again to get another 10k+ out of it before I unload it.

Very cool. I recorded it in 7 different parts this year (posted them all). About 70 mins of footage, give or take. Missed the beginning and was too antsy to stay until the end, lol. Lots of cool stuff.

Already had one ... they are living under our awning out front, she was prego when she started coming around for food. We weren't sure, but now we are. Kinda hard to get her into a crate to take her to the ASPCA to be spayed, as there isn't a lot of trust there, some, but not much being an outdoor stray. If we do that, she may never come back. Plus, issues with them releasing strays back to the people who brought them in.

Oh my I feel for this case. All I can say is do what you can..She is beautiful and perhaps needs a home

​@@naomiboaz325 She will remain an outdoor cat, already have 3 too many inside. We made her a shelter under the carport, we'll see if she goes for it. She doesn't take baby too far away from her food source, but has moved once already.

Yikes, continue response here. Meaning she would have a forever home here in my home on my ranch in colorado. I understand the dilema of domesticating ferral kitty and get into crate.

​@@naomiboaz325Lol, we are in PA. I can't get her into a crate, and doubt I can get her into a box to ship to you, lmao ... 😂 she's got a pretty good deal here, but you are right, she needs to get fixed or there will be a lot more.

Nice, we were there from Thursday to Monday. Thanks for watching.

We usually do Thursday thru Monday in May and October. Thanks for watching.

@@Phil454LSX i don't think cars are there on monday

@@1957raider No, most of them are packing up loading up and leaving on Sunday (inlet vendors too if they haven't already left early), but why not stay all day Sunday and see what's left and not have to fight Sunday weekend traffic on the way home or drive home in the dark? Plus, things are still open on Monday in OCM and Sunday night room rates are low after the special event is over. We take our time, do whatever we want and get home sometime Monday evening ... it's a vacation, not rushing around and killing ourselves to get somewhere.

We do Thursday thru Monday in May and October. We stay at Rideau near 1st st. Thanks for watching.