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No, not yet. I didnt say anything out about the pulling over, because this was a different video, about the caliper. I had to work though these problems first, before I could address that problem. You know with the weather and the dark nights messes about with the working time on my rig. But it's still pulling over slitely, not as bad as it was, but it's still there a bit. So over the next week or so, i'm going to re-check the new left front bearing, and re-ajust both the the rear brakes and the cabling. As something is make it pull over, I'm just working through things / problems at the moment, im in no hurry. But I'll find out what it is Gerry , and eliminate it. Cheers Jeff

There isn't a torque setting for these bolts, reason being the bolts are connected to a rubber mount, so you just tighten the nuts up good and tight. I use new nylon lock nuts, so there wont come un-done.. Cheers Jeff

@HymerS660withjeffriva thanks!

I've no idea how must my tank holds, never bother to find out, all I do is fill the tank up when it gets to quarter of a tank. As for fuel consumption I would have thought I get somewhere in the mid 20's. But I'm ok with that, as it a 31 year old 2.9 4.5-tonne vehicle so it's not going to give me great miles to the gallon. The way I look at it with my rig, it runs very smooth and pulls light a train. I do 58 mph on the motorways and it runs at that speed all day no issues. As for hill,s well I just let it get up them at it own speed, I dont push it and press the excellorator a bit more because that makes no differance, all that will do is use more fuel.. But fuel consumtion also depends on your driving style, I drive easy and dont rush about. But some people thrash there engines and neglect the maintenace side of things, which all as an impact on fuel consumption. Hope this helps, cheers Jeff

Well a 2.5 is normaly 2,475 cc and the 2.9 L is 2,874 cc which is used in the 310D and 410D Mercedes-Benz T1 . As for how your looks, I dont know what your engine looks like. But thing you can do is joint all the T1 Facebook groups and ask on there, as there will be loads of members with your engines I would gause. Cheers Jeff

Cheers fella, glad you like the videos

I not the best with electrics, but if your on facebook, I would joint the group these group below. As the guys in these groups can answer your question with regards to bigger amp alternator. These three groups are the best one Classic Hymers Technical - Mercedes T1/T2 Appreciation Group & Mercedes Benz T1&T2 Cheers Jeff

Glad you like the videos Chris. I much prefer autos now as they make diving easier now I'm getting on a bit. But I do try to look out for things breaking / starting to wareout before they do. Protective maintenance really is the best way to look after your vehicle, especially a 30 year old rig like mine,

Are you talking about the differential lock lever?

Hi Ronnie, I posted a video a month or so back of me replacing the front bearings, but I fitted those bearing about 18 months back as I dont aways get around to finnishing the editing of the videos I do strightaway as I end up getting side tracked with other stuff (but I do forgetting sometimes that I have done some videos - old age). But like I said I will be checking over everything on the front end again, because thats the best way to finding the fault of what's going wrong. Cheers Jeff

My tyres still look great with no issues or wheel vibration but Im still going the swop them over, as doing that helps to show others what to look for. But like I said I'm not spending any money on it, until I have looked at everything. But there is definitelt two sepertate things happening here, strightline with out brakes it's wondering over, and with brakes applied its even worse. But you and I know Gerry on old vehicles if you look for faults your going to find some. Cheers Jeff

Glad you like the videos Jake, dont know if you already this, but there are some very informative Facebook groups to be part of namely Mercedes T1/T2 Appreciation Group - Mercedes Benz T1&T2 and some of the guys on these groups are quite knowledgeable on these vehicles. There are other groups as well, but I find these two groups to be the best ones. Have a great day - Cheers jeff

Hi Kofi. When I removed my old exhaust setup there was only 2 x rubber holders, but there was 3 x metal chassie fittings and 2 x different exhaust clamp fittings. Reason being the last owner or the person before them must have fitted different exhaust pipes/ fittings / silencer to make it work. But I wanted to do fit the correct / right exhaust system, so I looked for the correct diagram on Facebook for my 410D, and found & fitted the right system with new rubbers and metal bracks it said to use. So maybe yours is missing something, also I have seen two differnt diagrams of my 410D exhaust system one with 2 x silencers, so which one is correct I dont know as my system works great with just the 1x silencer. Hope the helps - Cheers Jeff

Hi Fella. On the rear I fitted these Mercedes ones 611 320 10 33 and you can still get these from Mercedes and on the front I fitted Monroe ones V1112 that I bought off Autodoc. I found it a bit odd though that Mercedes sell the rear shocks but not the front ones, thats why I had to buy from Autodoc. Not had any issues with either of them, as my rig sits nice having had an extra leaf spring fitted as well at the front. Hope this help, Cheers Jeff

(sorry bad English) I don't know what experience you have with injectors but simply assuming not much : Caution. It's not that easy as it seems. At least not to buy just new ones and change them. First you have to find good ones. Best would be Bosch. Very rare. Firad has also a good reputation. Monarch I've heard mixed experiences. Opening up the whole injectorbody after such long time can be very tough. Then you have to be very careful when handling the new nozzles. Never pull the pin out of the nozzle/ don't touch them everywhere. But most important, they have to be "adjusted/set". You need one of these diesel table pumps, where you can screw them in and see the "spray picture". Best would be to buy a set of "refurbished" adjusted complete Nozzles from a truted diesel service. I hope this makes any sense with my primitive vocabulary :)

@@cornelius2993 I havnt had the need to extract my injectors yet as they are all working fine, but If I were to have trouble with them, I'd remove them all and take them to a specialist injector company to have them referbished, as what you say is correct Cornelius they have to be set up correctly, and the company would have the equipment to do that. Cheers Jeff

@@cornelius2993 I,ve done them before, these old mechanical injectors are really simple, no need to be afraid of them at all, all you need is a small pressure gauge (pop tester) and a few very thin washers to set the pressure, keep it all very clean, they really are very straight forward to do. injection pump uk sell the new nozzles for the 602, although thet dont say who made them.

Cheers fella, glad you like the work I do.

Is that a good thing or a bad thing Danny.

@@HymerS660withjeffriva she saw the funny side of using the measuring jug from the kitchen

I bought my first Bosal silencer off Autodoc, as I have bought loads of parts off there and had no problems with them. But this new I bought off Amazon, if you need the links I will send them to you. Hope this helps, Cheers Jeff

Hi, yes I can do that for you. If you are on Facebook send me a message to Jeff Riva, and I'll send some photos over to you, plus I might be able to do a short video of the hoses as well. Cheers Jeff

Thank you

You put it back on the same way you took it off, theres no differance. Once you have released the tention off the spring you can just fit the new belt, then you use the allen key or whatever your using to put the tention back on, then push the bolt back through. Very Very simple to do John - Cheers Jeff

Great, save yourself a few quid Scott, doing your own servicing

@HymerS660withjeffriva not long bought the s670 hymer and getting to know it. I service my other vans but wasn't too sure about this one. So your videos are a great help.. I'm thinking of doing the radiator cowling removal like yours , where did you get the stainless mesh from. ?

I use Mobil Mobilux EP2 NLGI 2 Grease: Which is a premium quality multi-purpose, lithium-base, which is recommended for general industrial applications. It contains an extreme-pressure additive for increased load-carrying ability. Most people just use / put any type in all of there grease nipples, which is ok I suppose. But I use the Mobile stuff... Plus I try to regrease every six months, not that it is needed every six months, but you and I know I wont have any issues with the king pins if I do that.... Also make sure you jack up each wheel before you grease each king pin, that way the grease with flow through the joints easier.

Hi Kieron. Well without seeing your setup, how did you remove the pully in the first place. as doesn't that have a centre bolt for the pully to be able to be removed. There must be a bolt also for your viscous fan to be removed from the pully. Cheers Jeff

Hi Gerry, I watched quite a few videos on youtube, in fact I watch a lot of them, with regards to these stakes UJ's. But I just found it easier to just clean and tidy up the yokes the way I did it, and pressing in all four caps from the outside.... Which is not difficult when pushing / tapping the caps in place.... You just dont want to rush the process as you know, with regards to the rolled bearing coming loose or moving.... As for the washers, I could have done 4 x tiny small spot welds on each cap, but decided to just do the 2 x welds instead, which worked out good with no issues. But I have to say, there's no vibration at all when out on the road, well pleased with the finnished results. As for other video's, I just do them as and when something goes or starts to fail on my rig or if I have nothing better to do, i'll just pick something to work on. Cheers Jeff

The you go fella, www.ims-ltd.co.uk/

You just undo the allen key bolts, very simple to do