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Glad it helped!

I agree. For some reason, I'd thought that putting the car into Park Brake Service Mode at the start automatically pulled the brake shoes in, but I don't think it did. Then, of course, once I was into the job, with my head down cracking on, I didn't think to make life easier by using the adjuster, I just got to it with the hammer. All a learning experience as it's not a job I'd done before, so will know better next time.

It's not a bad job. Just a bit of a fiddle attaching the wires. Hope the process works for you. Good luck.

Thank you! Cheers!

It has several applications. Easier if I refer you to the firm's website for details . . . seafoamworks.com/product/sea-foam-motor-treatment-oil-fuel-additive/

I'm sorry, I do not know the answer to that. I would suggest that you join the excellent Disco3 forum, where there is a section for Disco 4 owners. I'm sure someone there will know the answer and will help. Here's the link: www.disco3.co.uk/forum

Regarding my car Disco 4 SDV6 the EPB does not activate automatically but with the engine off the gearbox goes into parking mode and therefore this would prevent the rear disc adjustment

As I do not know the differences between the Disco 3 and 4, I do not know what to suggest to you, other than to look on the forum I mentioned earlier. Also, if you search RUclips for Land Rover Discovery 4 rear discs and brake pads replacement, I see there are a few videos that might be helpful. Good luck.

Glad I could help

Hello Dave, Thanks for your kind remarks on the video. Glad you enjoyed it. I do know the church you mention and have wondered what it would be like to stay there. I've subscribed to your channel, so will take a look. Best wishes.

@@OffMyCloud Thank you for subscribing, its really appreciated. If you go in to the link on my Cadair Idris video there is a link to the church on the Sykes Cottages website. I can highly recommend it.

Details of the oil I used for the transfer box can be found at about 4 minutes and 50 seconds into the video.

Thanks 👍

I purchased those steel wheel nuts from a firm called Wrington Engineering. They were very helpful. Can be found with a web search.

You're welcome Casey.

Glad it was of some use. I don't like straight cut video edits, but agree that for some videos the liquid fade isn't the best. I think it's particularly bad in this video because there is a lot of close up work.

Glad the film was of help. Good luck with the punches and the colt.

Thanks Boniras. My car is on the original air suspension. I've never considered changing it, so I wouldn't know if it is easy to do or not.

Thanks 👍

As I suspected, it's a failure of the glow plugs that is causing this issue. It's potentially a very expensive repair (if the plugs snap off) and a lot specialists don't want to touch the job. It's not too bad for me, as I don't use the car much in the winter and if it's an emergency I use the method shown in the video. It's not ideal, but better than spending lots of money for the little I use it.

Glad it helped!

Unfortunately, my video is specifc to the LR Disco 3. I don't know if it is the same on your RR Sport.

Yes, they are expensive. I replaced mine over several months.

I got mine on eBay. You'll also find them for sale at online shops, such as japgmowers.

Hello, If you stand at the front of the car and look at the engine (with plastic cover removed), the sensor on my RHD, 2005, Disco 3 diesel is at the front of the engine, slightly right of centre and just behind the fan cover. In relation to the coolant bottle, it's just to the left of it. Hope that helps.

My rims are 18 inch. I used the kit supplied by Powerful UK. Main thing is that the carriers need changing to larger ones. I'd suggest looking at this link and checking with the supplier that what they are selling meets your requirements. www.powerfuluk.com/land-rover-discovery-3-front-brake-upgrade-refurb-kit-336mm.html

Glad my film was of use to you. Just watching your film about your series 1. Very nice.

Happy to help!

Thanks Rob. I'm sorry, but I do not know the answer to your question about how long fuel remains stable. Some people I've spoken with feel it "goes off" in a matter of weeks, but I keep a full tank in my car over several months through the winter and it seems to be fine. I'm sure there are ways of testing it, but perhaps it's not something that can be done at home. A job for a specialist chemist I think.

Fuel lasts ages man av had the same tank in my rotavator for over a year and it still fires wheb a need it

Glad it was helpful!

Great 👍

Esso supreme 99 IS Tesco Momentum 99, just costs you more from Esso forecourt.

I didn't know that about the Tesco Momentum 99 RON. I might do a test on it one day.

@@OffMyCloud As far as ethanol content is labelled as E5. But it seems to make my car much more responsive compared to Vpower.

Even ESSO Super is labelled "E5", despite it not containing it (at least where and when I tested it last). As I understand it, the labelling is a legal requirement in the UK. It does not indicate that the fuel definitely contains 5% ethanol, only that 5% ethanol is the most it can contain.

No disagreement with you there Allan. Sadly, I doubt even the ethanol free ESSO we have in our area will be available much longer.

"A petroleum expert" eh? Ethanol reduces the CO2 emissions from your engine (lower % of carbon in its make up) but it is hygroscopic (picks up moisture) and has a lower energy density so worsens fuel consumption.

Good One!!! ;)

Thank you.

@@OffMyCloud np :)

On the pumps where I've looked, it is now stated as being "E5". It's been like that for a while now, I think. Importantly, even the ESSO Synergy pumps state "E5", despite not always containing ethanol. And so the thing to remember, as you say, is that the "E5" only indicates the maximum ethanol content, not necessarily the actual content.

Within the last month, the ones I normally use have changed their pumps to E10 (used to be labelled E5). Not clear if they have actually changed to E10, or were just preparing for it. I suspect there will be a mix of E5 & E10 for a while, otherwise they’d have to sell out before taking an E10 delivery. As it’s a supermarket with lots of customers, I don’t they’d do that.

I buy most bits and pieces for my Atcos from eBay sellers. You can find most of what you need there. Best bit of advice I can offer is to join the Old Lawnmower Club. Lots of help to be found on the forum. Good luck getting yours going.

No ice cream, sadly, but great to be out driving and now to be fully vaccinated.

This test was performed in the UK, on V-Power 99 RON. To some extent the ratio doesn't matter, but for ease of calculating the percentage of ethanol I used 100ml fuel and 10ml water, as shown in the film.

I do not have access to Shell fuel locally here in the UK, so not easy for me to find some and test. I wouldn't know what the quality of Shell fuel in southern Europe is. I imagine you'll see an indication of the ethanol content on the pumps in those countries. Your best way of finding out is to contact Shell and ask them. My video is specifically for the fuel I use in my videos.

@GR Which country are you located in? In the UK, it's now a requirement to state on the pump the maximum amount of ethanol that might be contained in the fuel. And so here, pumps are either marked "E5" or "E10" (5% or 10%). You could ask at the garage about what they are supplying.

It's been on the car for about 11 years and I cannot even remember where I bought it, but the make and model is "Front Runner Cheetah", if that helps.

@@OffMyCloud thanks

Could be a number of things I imagine. You'd need to hook up diagnostic equipment to get an idea. Only thing I've had like that in the past was a problem with the EGR valve. The car would accelerate, but not well at all. I had the valve blanked, rather than replaced. Hope you find what the issue is with yours and that it is not too difficult to fix.

Thank you.

It'll fit a number of Atco cylinder mowers from the 1960s/70s. I restored the tank as a spare for the mower featured in this film . . . ruclips.net/video/GNiLi6kp7nM/видео.html&t

I agree.

They should be adding mesitylene instead.

@@OffMyCloud nope, ripping us off, even worse with hippy woke bullshit so corps cash in 10 % ethanol for same prices!

100% agree its all a load of bollocks as always "sorry about the language"

"They should not be adding it to fuel in the first place. 😠😠😠" why not ? even the famous Ford Model T (the quintessential classic car) was able to run on pure alcohol (ethanol) ! What went wrong ? No worries, for the few short years you can buy gasoline it will have alcohol in it :-)

Hello, My one has points and a coil. I bought it as a none runner, as it was not getting a spark. First thing I did was replace the plug, then make sure the points were clean and gapped correctly. After that, I still wasn't getting a spark, so replaced the coil. They are a bit pricey, but with the new one fitted it sprang into life no problem at all. A useful resource is the Old Lawn Mower Club, especially their forum where you'll find a lot of help. Next time I have to replace a coil I'll make a film of it.

@@OffMyCloud thank you very much for that once I finish metal work I will be going onto engine 👍

I purchased those steel wheel nuts from a firm called Wrington Engineering. They were very helpful. Can be found with a web search. I cannot remember off hand what I torqued them to, other than it was correct for my model. Best thing to do is an online search for correct torque settings for your model.

Ethanol content in fuel has become a concern for classic vehicle owners such as myself, so I feel it's important to know how much is in the fuel I use. It will be marked as E5 (5%) or E10 (10%) on the fuel pumps, but in the case of E5 it doesn't necessarily mean that that is the amount. It just means that there could be up to 5% ethanol.