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Thanks for sharing this solid state conversion. Well done. VK6ADA

Mine looks to be 24V as well, ~55mA in A mode, but seems to want to take more in A/B mode -- can you confirm that switching to B input raises the power consumption? I limited mine and I'm kind of apprehensive of just letting it go to see how much lest it lets the magic smoke out, and I kind of need it at the moment and don't have one to spare. Still, quite useful.

Thank you for this, good Sir. I was about to test the power input myself but figured there has to be somebody out there that already did it. ;) You sure did put more care into documenting this device than the manufacturer did. Nice job, much appreciated. I rummaged through my power supplies and turns out I don't have one suitable, apart from a laptop brick which is a bit of an overkill. I'm going to have to order something, but I can power it from the bench supply in the meantime, of course. I was looking for a standalone curve tracer for a bit, but as is often the case these things are still pretty expensive.

Holy moly i just stumbled on to your channel, been wanting to convert several old radio including an R390 and here it is. Where can i find your conversion manuals? Also do you still sell the homemade chokes?

do you still use it, and if so is it better then a multimeter ? can you give us a demo on how to troubleshoot a bad stereo, appliance, etc. thank you for your time.

Thanks for doin .g this! It's a real service to anyone who wants to buy one of these. On a normal current tracer you read V on the X axis and I on the Y axis. Were you able to determine the current per graticule on the Y axis?

Hello Charles, Thank you for your explanation of the tester. Can you help me? I'm from Germany (Berlin) and my English isn't that good. My problem with the HW-210K tester. I only get one dot on the screen on my 2-channel oscilloscope. The oscilloscope is set to xy mode. The name of the oscilloscope is Voltkraft 630-2 30 MHz analog. What am I doing wrong? Best regards Nils Rosemann

Они специально очистили чипы чтобы мы не могли собрать такой же ?

I think the best thing to do is just buy a replacement cluster. My brake light use to flicker on and off with wiggling the connector. I had something wedged in my dash for a long time to keep it off and then it finally came back on. If I hit my dash really hard, it went off… And then it would eventually come back on. My internal lights would come on and off just like you said and run the battery down. They still come on and off when they want to at times by themselves. I sprayed some WD-40 in the door latches and it seems to have fixed that issue temporarily with the interior lights coming on and off by themselves don’t know if that was the issue or not. I watched a RUclips video of a guy soldering the motherboard where he said the brake light was coming on and off yesterday. My brake light still stays on. When I was wiggling my connectors yesterday before I did it, the brake light was coming on and off now it just stays on when I wiggle it. Pretty much gave up on it and don’t care if it’s on anymore because it’s not hurting anything. I believe I did fix my fuel gauge though. It’s been stuck on a quarter of a tank. It doesn’t go any further down and will eventually run out sitting on a quarter of a tank. When I fill up the tank it goes to only 3/4 of a tank and then it’ll go down to a quarter tank once you get down to about half a tank and sit there until you run out. I found a spot on the motherboard that didn’t look too healthy. I touched it with my soldering gun and the connection came right off. Soldered that connection back on and now my gas gauge works again. I’ll tolerate the brake light until eventually I decide I want to buy a new gauge cluster.

Thank you, Charles... Your video IS my user manual for this device and I appreciate all the time you dedicated to this project. Great video, my friend! Take care...

Do you have a video on how to use it on a digital oscilliscope

Hi charles, after seeing your video i bought one. I connecter to 24V positive central. The traces started to work (lights on) but after a few minutes while i was still trying to figure the setup i head a bad burning smell. I found the internal IC (the one connected to the heatsink) burned. Do you know which IC is that? and what could have happened? maybe 24V was not the correct supply?

Hello Charles. Do you have an idea of which regulator has the 210k i bought One but After some time i got smoke from the IC with heatsink.. i would like to repair it

Almayın. Sakın 3 ay sonra bozuluyor

Thank you sir for all of your well presented and useful information! 👌😎👍

Any suggestions for a 24 vdc power supply? Does the power supply need to be an isolated from ac line type? 15 vdc wasn't enough to make it work.

My power supply connector is 5.5 x 2 mm and I can't force it into the connector on the ASA unit. Could it be 2.5mm center pin?

I noticed that when I pushed the connector slightly away from me the light went out and when I moved it slightly towards me the light went on, so I put a small piece of rubber between the connector and bezel to hold it out ever so slightly and the light remained out.

did you mention the frequency this device was tuned for?

What a shame.

Hi there Charles, I like your convertion of the HQ-110A. Have you done this convertion to a HQ180A?. If so do you have a circuit diragram for this convertion. Best 73 Paul. De HS0ZLQ,G0MIH,

Would yourself or someone with a grid-cap model BC348 pulled down do some photos for me of inside the 3 coil boxes? Would appreciate. Also is there a 'conversion manual ' for the transitor-ising? Please advise...

Thanks for your explanations of this undocumented device. My copy came today from Ali and I found, that I've to use 200mV/div at X channel and 2V/div at Y channel for a correct X-Y display. Is this normal behaviour or should I adjust the X amplitude higher (or maybe Y amplitude lower) ? Apart from this, everything is working fine, so I'm not sure if adjustment is recommended.

Way to complicated for the average person.

Good job.👌👍

Good job. 👌👍

Oh, BTW, the resistor is connected, so it that why you're using high-ohm resistors?

Very Cool! Was glad to stumble across your video!

Excellent video. Thx for sharing!

Hi Charles, I just was given an R-390A in non-working condition. It looks like it hasn’t been tech-terrorized, so am hopeful to get it running. Your (&Mack) solid-state conversion looks really intriguing, and would allow the RX to be run continuously for cheap! How can I contact you for the document? I did not see an email, nor know your call to look at QRZ. Tnx & 73… 😊

22AWG, seems a bit small to work with. I might like to use 20AWG stranded NTE or Guasti wire instead.

See: Ham Radio Magazine Feb. 1969 (pg. 26 - 36) article by Henry H. Cross, WlOOP " Converting a Vacuum-Tube Receiver to Solid State " ( about the BC-348 )

Hello, is it possible to connect this tester to a PC?

Watched your solid-state conversion for the HG10, the kit doesn't appear to be available on eBay, do you have the schematic? I have two and they drift as I'm sending, after they sit a few mins, they go back to where they started, but the op on the other end is continually tuning to stay with me. Any advice would be appreciated. de WA1YDK

I think you put more work into the curve tracer than the manufacturer did! Thanks for all your time and hard work. It’s a huge help.

Thank you for taking your time and for sharing your knowledge with us all. God bless you.

What if it doesn't turn off when I move the wires?

If you took insulated wires and peeled off the insulation you wouldn't expect the wires to still be safe to touch would you? I don't think it's a fair comparison to remove the shielding of these devices and then expect them to still work the same... Yes they work different under those circumstances but that's not the circumstances the manufacturer expects you to use this device, and that's to say they very well might have identical performances when fully assembled.

which speakers do you recommend if I want to use it together with any of the GEEKOM minis?

El mejor video explicativo de una tina ultrasonica era lo que buscaba..... Gracias por tu aporte... . Cuando harás la segunda parte si es que lo tienes pensado??

Hi Charles, do you still sell the conversion manual to convert the BC-348? I am very interested in getting a manual from you and making the mod on my 348. Thanks, Don KC1IEA

Simple fix. Add a 5 volt source to the dark green / yellow stripe wire on the left connector. I used a 12 volt source with a reducer to 5 volts. The problem is in the circuit board not the connector. Easy fix and only removing covers.

Hi, thank you for this perfect work! Where may i download file, to translate it into Russian language?😂

8 graticules in x/y mode, how many volts/graticule did you set the scope to ? as I would like to be able to measure the curve parameters ie Volts / Current of the DUT , PS I took your advice re 24v power supply .

Google Huntron tracker and you will be enlightened . made a few in my time . still have a TEK 210 which is a fancy version with comparison function . Hameg oscilliscopes have a basic version even up to the HMO1202. The visual representation is an easy way of judging junctions etc , testing zeners , comparisons to good board.

Bought mine 10 projects ago. When it arrived with zippo documentation, I literally went to aliexpress, nope, amazon, nope, ebay yup. OH, it's a VI Curve Tester! This no BS review is great FRANK! Thank you.😅

Красавчик, братуха! Лайк тебе!

I rhink im going to replace the pots with better ones and use the rf shielding paint i paid too much for a while back haha. I might print or cnc a different enclosure so its not such an eyesore on my bench haha. Ive pretty much stopped buying from china but a second hand tek tracer is 2k Canadian with no guarantee of functionality haha. Guys im swimming in components if you want any gor free. If you live in Canada or the US. tens of thousands of parts i dont need. Over 100k leds of many types haha. Wima caps, motors, switches, perfboard, smd components. Lots of rc stuff ill sell dirt cheap. All brand new. Microcontrollers of all types. Ill even 3d print stuff for free for fellow enthusiasts if someone sends me the link to the file they want. The rc stuff is the only things id like to make a little money back on. I have too much stuff haha, isolation transformers, a 5watt laser thats brand new and comes with all the motors and such. I built one and then the wife bought one. I can send a 5lb package a week to anyone who wants stuff haha. Seriously. My email is attached to my channel. Or you can text me. I have guitar pickups and such as well. Im selling an rtx3090 too. 1050cad or 650usd lol or a trade. I have a ton of free stuff though so if anyone needs anything just ask and if i have it ill ship it no questions asked. My lab is too big and has spilled over into a vacant apartment i own in my basement hahaha

Im taking notes. Great video.

I had some gift card money so i bought it to match some germanium diodes and transistors for some guitar pedals.