Видео

In Russia? Ooph, I better stay lost ruclips.net/video/C6BeiHsBhao/видео.html he he he

Let us know how did it go

@@theodorekell Negative. It did not work for my model. It has slightly different parking brake lever and caliper. Neither the right nor left one was stuck in a forward position. New pads + rotors and parking brake still hardly holds my car in the mild incline of my driveway when pulled way up. I guess i am stuck doing the bolt adjustment as if these are bicycle brakes. Thanks for the video. At least I know to check for that issue.

​@@O7fatchix Sometimes the procedure helps without levers being stuck. I had this as well. I loosen the cable, turn-in piston, install brakes, start car, push brakes hard many times, tighten the cable and it works. Also try this - with car stopped at the angle, press brake, then pull the handle. Release brake. This could keep piston in the position it has after brake press. I've seen this too

Have you loosened the nut under console before working on the lever?

@@theodorekell It turns out that the lever on the caliper was seized and was not springing back. A little lubrication and it works now as it should. Thanks for your response!

Isn't 2015 having an electronic brake? May be only some have electronic. non-electronic should be fixable

Mine is non-electric, I did try and found one side is not retracting automatically, but couldn't remove the caliper bolt as it's sieged up, otherside works fine.

@@izzymars5148 new caliper time

This method is remedy if your system is still intact, meaning, your cables and calipers are in working condition, but only need tuning. If your calipers have internal problems, this will not help you. If you try and it works, good. If it works for a month and then problem starts again, your caliper is an issue.

@@theodorekell , Okay. Thanks. I just found out it's the cable. 🫤 The left side is broken. Do you happen to know how many hours it normally takes a professional to install a new cable?

@@yvetterenee8256 No Idea. But I would think, cable should be straight forward to install. You can look on.... youtube. Or mazda blog

@@yvetterenee8256 Replace parking cable was CAD1000 before the Covid!!!

@@Loyee2000 , Thanks.

Yes

Mine broke around 75,000 miles

This is an OEM hose that goes to the PCV valve. I bought at Toyota dealer.

​@@theodorekellGood call. The aftermarket ones are crap.

no leaks, This is not related to hydraulic subsystem

I just did one of mine again, even though it did not have the actuator stuck. Still worked if 1 - release the nut in the cabin to make it loose 2 - attempt to move back the actuators. It is ok if not moving 3 - turn the pistons in 4 - assemble back and press pedal many times 5 - adjust the nut under handle in the cabin to the right tension So far, been a month or more and works

@@theodorekell cheers mate sorted it today handbrake works perfectly this video and advice will save people time and money

@@theodorekell sorry guys late to the party. Just got a mazda 3 yesterday and have the same problem. Do i need to compress the piston to try this method or can I just try and move the actuators on their own the pump the brakes?

@@ClarksonA64 short answer - yes. But here is full sequence as I discovered later. Loosen the nut in the console, move back the actuator, turn piston to full retracted mode, recheck the actuator all way back. Assemble the brake pads again. Start the car, press brakes hard few times. Tighten/adjust the nut in the console.

That is probably the case. One of my cars keep working for 2 years now. And another was working for a year or so. I did it again and it is again working for month or so. Did you release the nut fully before doing this? I think, this is also a good thing to do. Then use it in the end to regulate the handle. So, I would release the nut, rewind the pistons, pull the actuators, reassemble, press the brakes, adjust the nut. - in this order.

Yea that what i did, i also notice that the rear left actuator was not fully coming back when i pull the handbrake, so i was tighten the nut until the actuator touch the butom. So it aslo give more brake power to the right wheel until i lose all brake power. I'm just wondering what can cause that.

@@jordanbriand1944 I test my car when the rear is lifted to make sure both sides act same. If you have the difference, I would just think about replacing the calipers. I spoke to my buddy - mechanic. He thinks the calipers is the problem if the calipers stop functioning after short time.

@@theodorekell yea that's what a thought, tanks!

Good. I might missed it, but sometimes to retract the lever fully you might need to loosen that nut in the cabin.Depends if you ever tried to adjust it using that nut.

I put on nw discs and pads around a year ago all good but same issue . So sm I needing to take them back off and push pistons back in to then pull/push that clip back ? I have many clicks which I'm not happy with atk I like 2/3 clicks hence why I prefer shoes besides pads at rear much better

Did not break for me. I think, this must be done with piston turned-in. Potentially you already had an issue

And this comment was gay asf 🌈🌈

it doesnt matter because if its hard, you already have broken tubes somewhere

@@omnilife6660 please don't add on to his gay comment

Hi, did this work for you?

Yes it did work 👌now the brakes are balanced , both sides are holding the same

You will be turning that bolt to the end of days if you have that lever not all the way back. I say this from personal experience having 2 same Mazda3 cars. Both adjusted the way I say. Now, over the year passed and 1 of the cars needs to be adjusted again, and another is still working fine.

Good question. I did this on both of my Mazda3 cars. And I need to do one of them again because handle again goes high. I don't remember if I removed the caliper in both. I believe, all you need is to remove the wheels with parking brake off. Move the lever/actuator. Start the car, push brakes hard few times (or put wheels back on first. I lift the entire rear of the car). After this it should work. If this is not helping, the caliper is held by 2 bolts. It gives you a chance to clean the brake pads sliders :). Turn pistons in and repeat what I said above.

I did exacly this and it don't work well for me, maybe my rear caliper is done.

Hi, did you have same problem that one side handbrake not grabbing the pad when handbrake lever is pulled up?

@@liang2512 No! But try to lubricate the springs and work them manually with your hands.

Yea, it means, I adhere to US constitution, I don't say that men can give birth. I understand that America was designed so that states create Fed and not vice versa. and America exists for its people and not to impose its rules on other nations. And I believe that parents have full control over their children and not the government.. And many other simple concepts like that.

@@theodorekell at the same time you think government should have the right to rule over corporations and where they do business? Sounds like you are liberal socialist

I replaced the hand break handle with the new switch twice now and still nothing, I have plenty of break fluid and the breakpads are fine

The light in the dash is strictly related to a switch next to the brake handle. I would try disconnecting that switch and see it light goes off. If not - you might have a problem in the dash itself.

@@theodorekell thank you

No, sorry

De Nada

I had this issue and it is easy fix. I see people running crazy but fix is so simple.

@@theodorekell people online saying the brake cable needs replacing $$$. Will try pull it apart and reinstall like you did

This is after-the-fact video. Mostly for self-reference. What you see, is when bike was put back together.