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Typically with any pedal that goes onto a bike will have only one way which it will correctly thread into and that is typically towards the back wheel. Left will most likely tighten clockwise and right will go counter clockwise.

Oh man that is tough! Thought I had it bad, you got it worse, lol. I seriously hope you heal up fast (perhaps physical therapy?). I was fortunate to walk away with no broken bones, just some serious road rash and a lot of pain. This was a while ago and my bike handling has massively improved and decisions on braking have changed, lol. Fortunately I have been keeping my tires rubber down more than up. Again I hope you heal up soon!

Yeah I probably should see a physical therapist because my hand still hasn't recovered and it hurts to put pressure on my palm. Not as much as it used to though for sure! I appreciate it bro

Definitely seek medical attention. A few weeks of maybe physical therapy and some meds is better than being stuck with a potentially life changing thing you know. If you got insurance that will cover it just do it. I wish you a speedy recovery either way it goes! 🤘🏻

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet! Welcome to the club!

Did you try to service it? Sounds like maybe the bearing are stuck or something seized up the bearings.

@@railthegutter wait I think it is working normal, I asked the local shop who sold it to me and they said it is just need times for the grease to work on it. It is functioning like normal now

Woooooo, lol. Good save. Might have been just some grease that was forcing it to stay upright. Could be semi old. Should consider buying a tool later on if you plan on servicing it so you can fix it yourself in the future. But glad you got it working! 🤘🏻

Im not sure if you mean if it’s got a puncture resistant layer? Or a rubber protective layer? But I can it doesn’t technically have either one.

Glad it helped even if they are Keo pedals! 🤘🏻

Hmmmmm, that’s not good. Try to tighten them as far as they will go. Do you feel resistance the more you tighten them or nothing changes? If the tension does increase (you would need to clip in and test it) then it could just be the indicator is busted (no real fix for that) but don’t worry too much about it since that is more “cosmetic”. The main thing is the tension spring. If that tension is literally the same from the loosest point to the tightest point (from threading it in further) then yeah there is no fix unfortunately. Sucks I know.

Hmmm 🤔. I do like this idea. Sounds a bit slow for most people though because of the amount of waiting to pile on another layer to the last layer. Cool tip though!

@@railthegutter Yeah it's not a thing for when your in a pinch UNLESS u make some patches this way at home and the have some liquid latex in small bottle and use it as the cement glue which will make it all a one part it only takes 15-30 min for good enough bond to ride off and dry. So similar to average butyl glue/cement before you know it wont leak for that peace of mind.

I would say the US3’s are pretty good for the price range. Once you have the right tire pressure dialed in with some latex tubes or some thin butyl tubes they float pretty good. Safe and happy riding! 🤘🏻

Welcome to spd-sl’s, lol.

Yep. Confirmed. Basically it’s the same tire but adds a layer of puncture protection against the US3. Thank you for the info!

Common things that cause that issue: Counterfeit Damage to the tension portion of the pedal. Typically a counterfeit set of pedals from say Aliexpress will almost always never work correctly. It’s a hit or miss. Sometimes they are real and they just don’t work (but this isn’t common with a genuine pedal set). Physical damage can pretty much wreck anything. This could also be where you crashed/dropped the pedal hard/or over tightened them to the point of malfunction. Hard to say which one it is unless you provide more details. Third is that they are probably super old and have just stopped working.

Honestly I had to put roughly 40mm of the 12mm allen key into the hub to get a hold of the stator bolt. The 12mm allen key was bought off Amazon (but you can use eBay). Get something that has at least a 2-3inch (75mm) short head and a 8-9inch (200-230mm) long section so you can get a good grip on it. And definitely use a cheater/breaker bar of some kind. You will most likely need that extra leverage. Best of luck! Side note: definitely put grease on the stator bolt. It will make taking it off easier next time! 🤘🏻

Results are seriously a trap, lol. Thanks! Trying to stay in the fight and move up. Shall get there. 🤘🏻

Racing is super fun but absolutely brutal but definitely worth it! For the overlays I use Garmins Virb Edit.

Think you got 1st technically right because Kaichen was disqualified? Lol. I ended up with a DNP because I accidentally thought the race was over but I was in like 22-23rd spot and decided to pull over, one lap too early, lol. Live and ya learn. Good work out there! 🤘🏻

@@railthegutter yes I took 1st place ! Thank you man, Definitely a great experience with all you guys. I see you out there

Congrats on the W! See you out there again! Probably CBR/Majestic.

Really? 28mm? Mine have never measured over like 26mm? That’s for 25mm, the 28mm definitely measured closer to like 29’ish. I agreed though, these tires are a bit of a pain to get on a rim, lol. Gotta have some good strength go get them on. 👍🏻

@@railthegutter I have an older set that read 25, and fit nice on 90s bikes. The new set had a tall casing and were unable to fit my old trek, but work really nice on a hybrid with fenders. I didn't need any levers to get them on or off.

It depends if your tire rim is wider you can get different size... 🤪

I personally carry two lenses literally all the time and they don’t really take up any space. But I do carry it in a fanny pack that I have on me all the time to avoid having it in my jersey, but I understand the limited space on your part. But if it works it works! 🙌🏻

@@railthegutter I'm surprised you do it this way. But I've seen a video with a guy saying he clips the glasses pouch to the shorts with spares inside. And he was riding off-road. Maybe tourism. I don't mind falling off the bike from time to time, and care about my stuff quite a lot, last glasses served me for ~15years. So I can't imagine risking breaking spare lenses during minor fall. Saying that though, I might loose them on first week if I'm unlucky.... I generally no longer carry anything on me, even wallet can be damaged by the sweat. I also find tifossi have way too long ear pieces, they tend to collide with helmet's rear strap support. They didn't change this feature for 20years, so probably treat them as their design feature, and maybe aim at people riding with no helmet or with only shallow road models?

Hmmmmm, maybe/maybe not. Anything that has a lost covering could have water ingress or dirt ingress into it. It’s difficult to say. If mechanically it’s in good working condition then it should be fine? But I would be somewhat cautious of your weather/riding conditions since the internals are sort of now exposed.

Mmmmm, can’t say Ive tried the Grand Sport tires from Conti. I had read that they are just slightly below the US3’s and the Classics are just slightly above the US3’s. You can check out bicyclerollingresistance.com for data on which tires roll good vs value. I use the site all the time. Keep in mind that there are lot of tires they haven’t tested so you might not see some stuff that is on the market on their site. Cheers!

sweeeeeet! glad it helped out! yeah that freehub isn't serviceable which sucks, but it is what it is.

Nope. I believe it’s tubetype only. I haven’t seen it as tubeless-ready.

Unfortunately the one area in spd sl pedals that cannot really be worked on or fixed is the tension area. Sucks I know. I suggest a return/exchange or if you’ve had them for a while then absolutely replacing them. Sorry for the bad news!

@@railthegutter that's sad, btw thanks for your immediate response.

Lol 😂 yeah I actually had a pretty long thin thorn go through the tire/tube, so I didn’t have a choice but to patch both sides perpendicular to each other. I always check the inner carcass of my tire if I have to work on the tube to make sure that pointy thing isn’t still in the tire. 🤘🏻

@@railthegutter right got you, ha! Nice work man

Yep no problem! Yeah there is a plethora of options out there! If urban commuting is something you do and are worried about punctures, definitely go with something that has a puncture resistant layer (the R2’s, Gatorskins, Schwalbe Durano and more!) and always always always carry one or two extra tubes (if you live in an area known for glass being everywhere on the ground definitely consider a patch kit as a super backup). AND, don’t max out your tire pressure! This actually makes punctures more than likely to happen! Happy riding!

Thanks for your advice.

Glad the information helped!

Yep no problem!

No problem!

Thank you! That’s an odd thing to happen though when wearing overshoes? Have you checked the section that clips into the spring section of the pedal? It could be wearing down or maybe it’s the cleat that is slightly out of alignment with your shoe? 🤔 hmmm…..

Mmmm, pretty big difference honestly. When I swapped the Gators to the GrandPrix (and then later on the US3’s), I noticed it would take me less pedal strokes to get up to 16-18mph. Went from roughly 6-7 pedal strokes down to like 3-4, and holding speed was a lot easier. Also, I adjusted the air pressure on the Gators to a lower pressure and that helped with road buzz, but it was still slower than the other two. I used the same lower pressure on the GP and the US3’s and those just roll better. Another thing to throw in is if you pair up the Gator with a latex tube it does help (albeit just a bit), but marry the latex with the other two and you’ll get something that is a bit more plush and it will pick up speed and roll a bit faster. I’m 5’9, 184/185 and I run pressures at 75/77-80 (front/rear).

@@railthegutter Wow thanks for the post. There seems like a big difference. I might switch to the Grandprix. Biking with these Gators feel like biking with a CitiBike

Lol 😂 yep! I used to use them a lot on my commutes to work (pre-covid) and they were great for avoiding punctures, but yeah, dragged a bit and it sucked more on headwind days. But no problem! 🤘🏻

It really depends. I believe both use PureGrip compound, but the GrandRace Sport tire has a “Nybreaker” layer for added protection. Both weigh almost exactly the same with a + or -, 5-10g in weight penalty. Which isn’t noticeable at all. I’ve ridden a pair of Grandsports before and honestly I couldn’t tell the difference between those and the US3’s. Either one paired with latex inner tubes would be suitable really!

I am fairly new to road cycling. I watched a lot of stuff on youtube and from people are saying ...you would think they get punctures every 200km. I have set of those tires on my bike and ridden on them approx 1500km. No punctures so far. I am tempted to buy something more fancy like PZero Classic with brown sidewalls (gotta look sexy on the road!), but I am actually worried that PZero will puncture easier considering that all fancy youtubers run either Pzero or Conti GP5000 and they keep complaining about punctures. Even multiple on a single day!

I’m currently on my second set of these US3’s. My first set from my initial review ended up with 8-10 punctures total within the first 3 months. I’m not sure if I had just bad luck with glass and thorns on the road (glass and thorns are the biggest problems around my area, especially during the summer), but my second set hasn’t given me this problem. Not sure if it’s my tire pressure adjustment? Less road debris? Less weight? Better at noticing random bad road patches of glass/thorns? Who knows. I’ve had only one puncture so far on the second set. The tires still collect a crap ton of little rocks so I’m positive that puncture protection isn’t quite there, but, you can mitigate it. But, I’d STILL recommend them for the budget rider/racer! Thank you for sharing!

@@kamael1125 the ones you have will last you 4,000 kms at the very least. That, to me is just awesome especially if you don’t get more than 1-2 punctures in that entire life span. Stay with them till you hit the 4K mileage mark

@@railthegutter tire pressure could explain it. I use these in the 700*28c version and do not inflate them beyond 95psi.

Personally I don’t pump my rear tire past 82 and 77 in the front. Used to ride it at 100 front and rear, lol. Whoops 😅 the more ya know, ya know? Lol

Lol, I wish I could afford a tubeless tire/wheel setup. Never have I ever owned one. I’m just speaking from personal experience. Mind you, I live in an area where glass is the most common thing that I find in my tires that end my rides with punctures. If you live in an area that doesn’t give you said problem, dude, you got it good. I love the Grand Prix tires. Even more than the US3’s I’ve been running, but they’re a bit out of budget at the moment. And 23’s aren’t bad at all, but I prefer the wider 25-28’s just for the extra comfort those extra mm’s give. When I was riding 23’s at the beginning of me getting into the sport, I would max out my tires at 110-120psi, and it was ROUGH. 100psi with a 25-28 is a bit better, but I know better now and only add what I actually need which is 77-81 on training/casual riding, and 80-88 when carrying a big backpack and assuming I haven’t gained weight, lol.

I personally haven’t. I have read about them as well and spotted people talking about them. I am thinking about testing goodyear or michelin as my next set of budget race tire, and/or american classic tires from Amazon. Unfortunately, bicyclerollingresistance.com doesn’t have any info on the goodyear tires other than one tubeless tire (f1 eagle?). I would take that small gamble though, lol. I’m all about testing stuff out to see how far I can push it. If it’s cheap and it works for my application, then I say balls to the wall!

Unfortunately there is no way to fix the tension on these newer versions of SPD pedals. The older ones you could buy parts like the tension mech to replace and get them working, but if the tension doesn’t get harder the more you push the tension screw, then it’s most likely defective or gone bad. Sorry!

@@railthegutter inshort i need to buy a new one?

Unfortunately yes. That’s going to be your best option in this case. Sucks I know.

Glad it was helpful!

lol, yeah it was brutal and painful. I would not wish that pain on anyone.

The 155 bolt you're referring too definitely had me worried for a bit, but I've had that thing forever (use it literally every day for training and just used it in a race), and I haven't had that issue with mine. I'll chalk it up to luck, lol. As long as you have ONE good working saddle, that's all that matters! Thank you for commenting!

I honestly can’t really say much about the grip in the wet since here in CA some of us don’t ride outside when it’s even drizzling a tiny bit, lol. Slow? Mmmm, I would say they are slightly faster than the Conti US3’s, but that’s just my opinion. I do use mine with latex tubes, and that alone made both sets of tires “faster” due to slightly lower RR.

@@railthegutter I tried them with latex tubes, also feeling slow. So much better tires available

I will agree. There are much much better options out there, but when you're on a budget, you just go with what you can you know. I will take the Grand Prix/US3's over Gatorskins or Durano's for speed, lol. www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ has really good info, and it's what I use to get an idea on what to use/look for in a tire.

@@railthegutter Tires are the last thing on the bike that needs saving the money.

Really? That’s odd. I personally always pump a tiny bit of air into all the tube’s I’ve ever used to ensure they’re good from the get-go (in case I need to return/fix them). Only time I have to be a bit more careful is when I need to put them on a wheel and if it’s a really tight fit. I pump a tiny bit of air and then use my tire lever and push it under tire bead to slip it onto the rim, but I have to be careful not to pinch the tube too much or it could damage it. Other than that I haven’t really struggled at all.

@@railthegutter I know the problem. Didn’t put enough air in !! :(

@@adammillsindustries. I seriously hope you were able to keep using the same ones, I know latex tubes aren't cheap! :|

You probably didn't check well between the tyre and the internal rim. You need to put some air before you get the inner tube inside the rim. Then check the inner tube is sitting well in and proceed to hook the tyre. The check again you can't see any pink between rim and tyre and start pumping after it.

Glad it was helpful!

Personally have never used the GP4000’s, heard they weren’t bad? But yeah, never personally used them. So far so good on the Ultrasport 3’s though! Currently on my second pair after the first pair gave out after a lot of miles and hard braking, lol. Combo these up with latex tubes and you got yourself a decently fast tire setup! 🤘🏻

@@railthegutter any link for those latex tube? I run P-zero in Okinawa but they got no grip and when it rains I am scare to ride.

@@adonisrodriguez4499 sorry for the super late reply, but these are the ones I got. www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Unisexs-Competition-Presta-700x25-28c/dp/B084CXNQ35/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=latex+inner+tube+700x28&qid=1683728818&sprefix=latex+inner%2Caps%2C508&sr=8-5

@@adonisrodriguez4499 yeah I've heard that the P Zero's are amazing for dry roads and are pretty damn fast, but I've also read they aren't great on wet roads. the US3's aren't great on wet either, but not the worst (I've tried them with slightly lower than normal pressures and they seem to hold okay).