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that looks absolutely awesome!! Fantastic job!

Love it! The lights look great! ❤❤😊

I love your models... I have just bought myself a cutting machine with the idea of using it for cutting styrene... I have done some tests already and I agree - it is REALLY useful! Thank you for the continued inspiration!

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Great job!. CA tends to make fiber optic brittle and snap easily. There are 'cool' hot glue guns (low melt) that work at lower temperatures, that may work for you. Most people opt for 5 minute epoxy, which can be messy but works... Lights look better in 2s and 3s, and in evenly spaced rows, that may suggest deck heights.

2:24 Also, the F-21 designation was given to several Israeli KFIR fighters loaned to the US Navy Fighter Weapons school TOPGUN for use in Dissimilar Air Combat Training (DACT). This occurred in the mid to late 1980s.

A couple of tips I use with fiber optics I use a soldering iron to mushroom the end of the filament stops it pulling through. And I use UV resin to secure it to the model. No risk of it melting or crazing from super glue

Wicked cool spaceship sir!! Excellent use of (seemingly random) kit parts as well as styrene. While I'm not a big fan of the color red (💙 ftw), this color combo really works well here. I had a question about the fiber optics that I didn't see covered in the video. Did you leave the individual strands long sticking through the hull and only cut them flush with the surface after everything thing has been painted and detailed?? I've seen it handled a couple different ways, but the method I described seems to be the easiest/smartest way. Would love to know if this was how you did yours...🤔 Enjoyed this build & video immensely and awaiting the next desperately. Keep on keeping on! 👍👍

Looks fantastic. Well done

Ship looks great! I want to build a 1:12 spaceship, just trying to figure out the dimensions. Just want a single passenger ship, but even then, it's gonna be a pretty good size.

A very cool subject indeed! In my experience, I found the safest way to secure fibers to a part is with PVA. CA makes the fiber brittle and prone to snapping. Yeah it takes longer to dry, but you'll get some flexibility that CA takes away.

Kit-bashing instead of recreating a concept model from scratch build? Nice to see you do this!

saw it pop by on redit. cool to see the progress on the build. keep up the good work. 👍

This is super cool! I actually have the Testeros F-19 still mint in box the release from 1987, on the rear it reads: Many thanks for making this video, very well explained, it would be nice to see a build video of the original Testor release like the one I have here. Love the airbrush method and your gluing skills, this takes me back to my modeling days. Front box: F-19 Steapth Fighter The original... As seen nationally in print and on television news! A yellow sticker reading: New 1/72 Scale Version! Rear of the box showing photo's of a grey & black variant, Lockheed Martin F-19 Stealth Fighter, always wondered what name it would of gotten "Batwing" was one I had in my personally. (this I read and typed from the box to type here) -------------- Model Kit Features: The Testor 1/72 scale F-19 Stealth is distinguished by the unique lines that identify these airplanes: wedge cross section, mathematical log spiral curves, smooth blended-body wing fuselage junctures, flush top-mounted air inlets, two-dimensional high by-pass exhaust outlets, and internal weapons. Two AGM-65D Maverick attack missiles are included with launch racks for display in either launch or stowed configuration. Separate canopies will allow the hobbyist a mission-ready aircraft or a trainer. Canopies can be constructed opened or closed to display full cockpit detail. A complete instruction manual out-lines steps required to build and pain t either of the two stealth airplanes: decals are included for both variants. Footnotes regarding actual Stealth systems are interspersed throughout the manual. Note: This authentic 1/72 scale F-19 Stealth Fighter is based upon years of extensive research. All specifications were obtained by The Testor Corporation from unrestricted public sources. Because it is a model, and critical full-scale internal components are not depicted, it does not expose any classified systems. Photo's are of Prototype. Models by Tim Warcup and Mike Fritz. Printed in U.S.A. / Parts made in Italy. 1987 The Testor Corporation, Rockford, Illinois 61108. -------------- And there you have it, I always kept mine mint in box, just for the memory.

Esta es la mejor version de la nave y la mejor mawueta que he visto esta increible su trabajo

Esta exelente pero creo que en la punta de las alas si lo doblaras un poco hacia arriba como a 45 grados le daria otra imagen como en los aviones de pasajeros salydos desde mexico cd

What kind of brush are you using for the Well Bond 3? Mine always gum up or melt. . .

If that is an observation deck, then oh boy the scale of this ship would be HUGE

the music tempo and choice and the yapping pace just makes this video unwatchable for me. I really love to chillout when making models and I can't imagine any other builder doing so in such a hyped up manner. does your video portray the reality of your process?

Fantastic build

Liked the narration

24:10 you should really look into the salt masking technique.

The music is almost lounger than you

Great job

You are DAMM GOOD, man.

Definitely Space Battleship Yamato vibes, fantastic just a quick question where do you get the containers you keep your styrene in and where do you get those size styrene sheets and finally the name of your shop on Etsy. Ok, sorry, a couple of questions, thanks.

Ya know... Those templates are perfect for the Cameo. You will have fewer parts per page because of the "Print Area". No worry. Do you know about "View Registration Marks"? Do your design. Decide your sheet size. Export your parts to "SVG". Open 'em in the Cameo Studio. Arrange them. "View Print Area", "View Registration Marks". Print each page to PDF. Now, once the PDF exists. It can be printed on paper, cut out and used as a guide. Or... Make another matching layer of your parts. Save them as a "Studio3". Just the borders now. Then... you can slide in the stock, open the drawing, push go. You can cut the parts on vinyl too. Then the masks stick when you cuts parts by hand. Endless possibilities. To continue the gushing, SVG is scale able. Maybe you cut one part per sheet but the resulting model is epic in proportion.

The metal squares from Hobby Lobby are excellent for cutting guides.

I make those little masks from straight sheet vinyl, the 12 x 12 stuff is a buck fifty a sheet at Hobby Lobby Works good, last loooong time. Oh and, that stuff i less than .001 thick. You can darn near put it on instead of paint.

More Cameo plastic cutting questions: DO you think your blade goes dull from the plastic? Diging the stickers. Wish I had the budget. Them Cameo cutters are way cool to say the least.

Oh, yes. touch of solder on the CLEAN tip. Touch the tip to the work. You will see the solder flow from the tip the minute the work is hot enough. feed a tad more solder into the joint then get outa dodge. Perfect joint every time.

A lot of the guys use good old tap water to help smooth their putty

Nice Build. Ju must add little Cargo Ships to it. 😀

Tip for fiberoptics (as someone who's half through doing my own fiberoptic-lit project), I'd say put a glob of superglue on a bottle cap or something, then use that pin to pick up a tiny dab of glue, place it on the fiberoptic at a spot not quite on the hole itself, then pull it through the hole until the glue makes contact and sets, pretty much instantly, and a lot less wasteful than a dab of glue on EVERY line of fiberoptic.

This turned out amazing! great work.

Great job. How about a steampunk starship for your fleet?

Man, I love how this came together. So often, when I watch builds like these, I find myself doubting how it's going. I'm sure that even happens for you while you're building them. But, while not thinking about how it looked in the thumbnail, I found myself thinking this wasn't working out and it wasn't going to look good. But, I was 100% wrong and I love when that happens. It's when they priming is done, then again for the glamour shots. Great job.

I also haven't had much experience with Epoxy Putty, but I've heard Crafsman say it helps if you mix it, then let it sit a bit before sculpting with it. I'm thinking it's his video on designing a character. This one maybe? ruclips.net/video/ycr9bpO-czI/видео.html

The model looks great and adding the LEDs does bring the model to life. I can see it was difficult to create and add the LEDs but the end result is truly outstanding. Thanks for making and sharing this.

What kind of glue are you painting on with a brush?

what settings did you use on your cameo for cutting styrene, and what thickness did you use? Another great build!

You should've saved the planes from the Agano. Trim off their wings and you'd have little rocket-shaped shuttles! :)

Turned out really awesome, great concept and execution again!

If you really dove into this making more models from your own sci fi universe I'd 100% binge watch that for an unhealthy amount of time

Looks like an oil tanker mixed with an aircraft carrier! Very cool build.

I have been binging your videos since I found them and I think this might be my favourite. Fantastic build, great painting and beautiful weathering. It looks so 'lived in' and like a working machine. Have you ever thought about doing ground vehicles in the same scale as your Kingfisher? (Maybe you have and I just haven't got to that one yet) You've inspired me to dig out the Star Wars landspeeder I've been building from scratch with the same methods. It's been left abandoned and part finished for too long!

beat this ! love it!

You made a masterpiece out of plastic parts!!! Really cool 😎

This is so freakin awesome! I'd suspend it from my ceiling!

Your description of the base was dead on! LOL