Видео

I'm not sure it is ingenious, but I appreciate the comments! 🙂

Thanks. The plumbing on this thing was definitely the hardest part. When you order your tanks, I would suggest not doing what I did. I thought I was adding capacity by adding more pipe on the outlet, but what I really was adding was more chances for it to plug up. If I did it over again, I would have the outlet of the tank near the outside edge of the camper.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 my tanks are ordered and I installed 2 out of the 3 this weekend. They are under the trailer though.

I should have included that. A few episodes later I had to peel off some epoxy fiberglass that didn't cure correctly and it was really difficult to remove. Surprisingly difficult.

That would be great. The resin I am using is actually the same epoxy resin I used when I built a cedar strip kayak. I like this stuff because it has a very low odor.

Ha ha. Thanks. Stay tuned for the next video (if I ever get around to finishing). The low rider look didn't work out so great. :)

Thanks. I picked up that lathe a couple years ago from a guy that reconditions them. It's a little more difficult to work on than a modern lathe but it's fun knowing it was built in the 1940s.

Thanks for the comments. I do still have all of the parts, but I am using them currently to build another model. I am attempting to copy a 12 ft Dagger recreational kayak. So far I'll have done is cut out the slats.

That's what everyone keeps commenting on :) I had seen it done this way a bunch before I made the video. It doesn't make a big difference for my test though because it was really about the tensile strength of the cotton versus the fiberglass. The glue would add a small amount of rigidity.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 , I noticed after I posted that, that you mentioned that very thing. Enjoyed the video. If I ever decide to build a trailer using foam core, I’d definitely send the extra money on the Fibreglass. Thank you for the video.

Have you started a build yet or just thinking about it?

Thank you.

Fiberglass will not burn because it is literally just fibers of glass. However, most epoxies will burn at some temperature and will put off obnoxious fumes. The insulation is rated as fire resistant, but it will melt and still put off fumes. Unfortunately, this is true of most items in your house and your car. The world is out to get us.

Ha ha. RPMF!

I saw some other people do that, and I thought about it, but the OSB is just super durable and easy. It takes a lot of thickness of fiberglass (and cost) to make the floor sturdy enough.

I know there are a bunch of videos out there that cover that. Since I ended up going with fiberglass I never needed to figure it out. In case you didn't know, some of the newer generators have a CO detector in them and they will shut off if they are in an enclosure.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 yep, I understand the CO concept and its remedies

Thanks. I had a few other people tell me the same thing about epoxy exposure. Luckily I rarely work with it.

On the outside I used three layers of 6-in woven cloth. I let the resin cure for about 6-8 hours but it was still soft enough so I had a chemical bond between the two. I did two layers on the inside. I talked to a few other RUclipsrs that used six layers on the outside and that would give you a nice hard shell, but I was going for lightweight. My goal was to be 1000 pounds, but I am ending up around 1200.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Thanks for the reply! Did you apply any of the layers at 45 degrees?

I didn't. I just barely had enough fabric to do it square and did not want to deal with having more joints that would need to be smoothed out later.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 yeah I have read on a couple websites that you should run ply at 45° for more strength, personally I don't see how that really works in this application. I'm guessing you get plenty of resistance against racking from the foam board itself.

Thanks. I spent just under $2000US. That stuff is not cheap!

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Thank you for your fast response! I like the fiberglass idea but I do not like the fact that it takes forever to get a nice finish. 😞 I'm thinking of doing fiberglass and finishing it with Fillion RV siding. This would add a small amount of weight but avoid all the filling, sanding, and painting. WDYT?

​@@gommgomm-ps5fiI considered doing that but I really wanted the rounded corners (just an aesthetic thing). I was also concerned about handling large floppy panels by myself and the fact that you have to drill holes to attach trim at all of the joints.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Ok, I understand. In my case, I would just bond the Fillion to the fiberglass and glue the trims without any screws or nails. The trims will never become loose or let water in if the right product is used.

My brother built his like that. 1/4" plywood with fiberglass on top of the wood. That makes it a lot heavier but allows you to fasten things to it easily. It's also a lot more durable that way.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 He used 1/4 ply both sides? i was thinking 1/4 ply on inside and fiberglass on the outside. Do you have a link to his build or videos?

@@joec7325 he didn't video anything. Sorry. I don't even have photos of it.

Thanks. I am finally trying to get the inside built now. Hopefully will be finished in the next week or two so I can do a final video.

Perfect. Ha ha

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 😁

I think that's a really smart idea. I had someone tell me that they thought I was crazy for only putting on a few layers of glass. He was adding 6 layers to his shell. Also, if you can find it, you can buy 250lb foam instead of the standard 150lb foam. It's made to go under concrete slabs and that extra density would make a stronger core.

Fair assessment. But there really aren't any rules and regulations for PMF so it's hard to say what is right or wrong. My point in making the video was to show how strong the two methods are and the PMF did surprisingly well. If I was testing for water resistance, then it would be a totally different story.

Ha ha. Thanks. I picked that music because I loved it. Maybe it's a bit much :)

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 I actually like the music it's just too loud unless you are talking. I just mute it until CC tells me you are saying something. Do love the build though nice design and looking forward to your future projects.

Thanks. I'm not sure it's easier, but it does turn out quite a bit lighter. I can lift this entire shell myself. My brother built a truck camper using plywood laminated onto foam with fiberglass over top. It is a lot heavier, but he has the advantage of being able to fasten things to it easier.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 it seems easier to work with in that it’s far easier to manoeuvre and seems to be easier to slot together etc. yes I did think about laminating a layer of ply on the inside too possibly so I can also do this. You have the added bonus it doesn’t rot too, which makes a massive difference on a boat where everything rots and marine ply costs the earth.

​@@tastytechaddictsmtbI added small pieces of plywood on the inside wherever I thought I was going to need it. If you plan well, this works out.

Thank you!

Agreed. It would probably help some. From what I could see, the failure was not really because the adhesion failed. It was more because the epoxy/fiberglass is so much more rigid than the paint or glue would be. The PMF simply bent easier with compression.

zackly

Glad you liked some of it 🙂

I thought about that but I was afraid that these will get damaged at some point and I want to be able to make more. All it takes is one blow-out to rip these things into shreds. Thanks for watching.

Makes sense

I get it. I keep the smallest scraps of fiberglass to use for my next project cuz I know it's really expensive.

Thanks. The choice of fabric really makes the biggest difference. Using canvas or screen like you mentioned will greatly improve the bending strength.

Great build saw all your vids, can't wait to see you finish interior. I saw one he did test sanding with different grits of paper. He used glass & epoxy. 40 grit looked to have the best hold. I'm designing a pop-up truck camper, plan on using glue & 8 or 10 Oz canvas due to cost. Glass & epoxy is VERY expensive here in Alaska. Hope to find local supplier for boat paint, but probably use Rust-Oleum for final finish $$

@BeardedToad-cd1ly Thanks. I bet the Rust-Oleum paint would turn out really nice. I know you can get additives for it so it rolls on smoother just like the stuff I used for boats. In my opinion, the final coat is the most important for poor man's fiberglass because you really need to seal everything up well. Water will be your enemy.

Thanks. It helps to hide the little imperfections.

True. But I really liked the shape of the back with the hump. A lot more work, but worth it to me.

Definitely. The machine is plenty strong enough. You will just need a longer hose and to feed the material a little slower so it doesn't clog up.

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Thanks for your prompt reply! The cellulose blow-in machine requires a 20-amp wire, but my house has only 15-amp wires. It also seems to generate less dust at the feed site in comparison with the cellulose machine you can rent. Do you think so?

They both create a lot of dust. I have used both and didn't see much difference. Either way you are completely covered with dust.

I hope it turns out great!

@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 was thinking of putting wood for the load bearing base. And then interlock the foam similiar to another youtuber

@@xaploq1 yes. You definitely need something rigid to support the bottom. I used PVC boards just in case I ever have water contact. I don't want rot.

@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 never thought of the rot but would the resin at least seal the wood if I were to just use that as a sealer or encapsulate the whole base with resin and fiberglass

@@xaploq1 the resin should seal it, but I am just nervous that it might crack and let water in eventually.

Thanks. I hope yours turns out great.

What will you put in it? Watermelons? 😁

Thanks. I really hate the prep part but the painting is fun.

I never did any engineering calculations on the strength, but I would not hesitate to sit on top. My little teardrop is really strong. Snow would not be a problem at all with the fiberglass system I used. Not sure about the PMF.

@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 I was leary about the poorman without a garage but glad I came across your video. Closest i found to an answer. Definitely fiberglass or something else without good storage

@@Ketch22k agreed. I have seen a lot of PMF where they tore it off after 2 years because everything underneath was rotten. Good luck on your build.

Thanks for watching. I haven't had time to work on the camper for a few months now. Hopefully I can get it finished soon.

I think that would definitely help, but I don't think the Titebond glue and fabric will ever have the same strength and rigidity as epoxy and fiberglass will.