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The challenge for him is finding the time! For sure, once he gets some practice in he'll be ready to keep pace with the gang!

@@EUCme cheers! appreciate it :)

yes the durability is second to none. 100v uses the 3600Wh battery well. You'll want a knobby tire. Maybe a fast charger. Get a wheel with a bigger battery if distance is key although I'm not as confident in the master pro. enjoy!

Thanks for hanging out, I'm a big fan of the Patton, perfect for smoother single track. The Lynx with the larger 20" tyre is better for rolling over chunkier terrain but isnt as nimble feeling vs the 16". the V14 is similar to the patton but appears not as rugged.

you've been led astray! The outter plastic has a low friction hard plastic feel. They also have d30 on the larger forearm section. Here they are after a crash and material clos up. See vid ruclips.net/user/shortsB-DIrUSZRC4?si=X1CahQw7pS9OzSIJ

@@jonoeucoh great news then! Thank you! I was really looking into these. Might pick them up now!

Hey Finn that's awesome, glad inmotion pulled it together and fixed the pre release issues. I had a quick ride on the V14 and enjoyed it. I thought it was a similar feel to the Patton, mainly due to the weight and 16". cheers

@@jonoeuc oh I almost forgot.. The tire and voldtage of v14 makes me want to upgrade My Sherman S equipped with Kenda tire..... Ill get et max very soon.

not good, how re you holding up? Was that on the Sherman S with the latest firmware? I ask because of the new feature: hall sensor failure algorithm that allows the wheel to run with complete hall sensor failure. I thought the SS got that update. best recovery, jono

@@jonoeuc I'm ok . Motorbike gear did job pretty well . Small pain under knee during one day and one hand finger small pain . Nothing more . The source of failure was damaged motor cable near bearing . Rubber seal cut it and hall sensor wire . Fixed and today test ride will be . Yep , still waiting for that software .

that sucks and was my concern when I first wore knee pad sleeves.

cheers! the shinko 241 is still going well. I've tested higher 33psi and it rounds out the tyre even more which makes it corner even more linearly. It introduces more of the round negative traits thought like greater train tracking (still not that bad vs street tyre). ta jono

⁠@@jonoeuchave you ridden the TNT tire? I’m assuming it would be similar to the Michelin. It’s the only tire I’ve tried on my lynx but I have a new k262 that I wanna try on it! The tnt feels squirrelly to me and I’m hoping the kenda feels better

I haven't tried the TNT, the K262 is very stable. just dont corner hard and itll be great

It's a pricey hobby for sure. keep your eyes peeled for second hand. however everyones enjoying the Lynx too much and very few are selling.

The Finger Dinger is pricey but the best i've found. Mine did break apart on the 3D printed mount after 22months. 'jono' for 5% off www.rbventuresuk.com/product-page/rb-finger-dinger

thank you! all i've done on the V11y is this short: Wobbles are mainly down to the wheel layout such as the tyre type, tyre PSI and foot position. Riding Technique is the second part. you can stagger your foot position on the pedals. ABC always be carving. this isn't as necessary with certain EUCs and tyres. EG I found the sherman s to be very stable and resist wobbles particularly with a knobby tyre. ruclips.net/user/shorts8F3jnTFAsdo?feature=share

They look pretty good i'm guessing it's the "e-RIDES Max P1 Gloves with Wrist Protector - Full Finger - MK1" I'm guessing they'd offer a bit less wrist protection - less length - 1 strap vs 2 - not flex design. Integrated fingers is nice. Yeah i forego finger protection due to preference. The flexmeter are surprisingly good at keeping my fingers away from the road. here are the scrapes on my finger after a fairly fast crash @6:37 on this vid ruclips.net/video/ldHKQxmCKAI/видео.htmlsi=zGo5Wd8H1_SPPYbP&t=397

haha that's a bush turkey, a protected indigenous species here. Quite common to see out and about, darting in front of the wheel when riding!

agreed, I did my SS up to 14nm. anecdotal i'm up to 4780km on these bolt specs. But you should probably go a bit tighter. Since one of my motor bolts sheared off, possibly due to over tightening from factory. I went a bit under what I normally would because I lacked confidence in the stock bolts not shearing off. I should've prefaced that somewhere so good catch.

hey mate, yes! constant hum / ringing sound. I show it here at 30:48 ruclips.net/video/ldHKQxmCKAI/видео.html

@@jonoeuc thank you for your answer. I adjusted the suspension, rebound seems to work fine but I feel zero difference (or barely) when adjusting compression damper, min to max values feel very similar when jumping in place on the wheel... Do you also feel that ? Thank you, Tim

Hey Anthony, you need an after market DC converter. I bought this one off ebay DC / DC Converter 20V-60V to 6V 5A 30W Buck Converter Module. The stock inokim light setup was too weak to power this light. The light is decent but could be better. No cutoff beam and the spread could be better. A Ravemen CR1000 cycle light mounted on the bars was quite good. I don't remember the exact wiring. From memory I spliced into the existing lighting wiring on the 60V side of the stock Inokim DC converter. If you have a multimeter that helps a ton. Checkout the Inokim facebook group for additional help. Maybe Search for wiring diagram there.

10wt is what I got from e-riderz internal training video from leaperkim.

depends on the tyre. I'd suggest starting around: Kenda k262: 27psi (24psi) Michelin pilot street 2 33psi (30psi) Shinko 241 33psi (30psi) So I just added 3psi over my values which are in brackets (x)

You make a good point. Too bad the k262 isn't on my lynx to test again. What I think is happening is that the knife edge center tread pattern flattens out making the transition to the next row of tread less aggressive. However! with the shinko 241 it DOES round out more with higher psi. The difference is that it's a softer rubber and already a rounder profile. So it needs the pressure to hold the shape otherwise the softer rubber collapses. hope some of that makes sense. ta jono

no I wouldn't. The larger sherman s was more comfortable due to stability when up at speed but unwieldy taking off and at low speed. Lynx better at taking off and at low speed.

WA and QLD are good to go but not sure about the other states. Some aren't afaik.

@@jonoeuc Good to go as in you just need a helmet and a car license?

Medium!

hey alex, I cannot find the original facebook post but here is my image. Credit @Anna Baranova imgur.com/a/GuSHihM

@@jonoeuc Thank you so much. Enjoying all your videos 🙂. I have e a lynx on preorder as my first wheel and can't wait to get started 🙂.

yeah the s22 has that effortless glide to it. I'm still keen to try the pedal lowering kit on the lynx but at $210aud it's a bit meh atm. Hope you're enjoying / will enjoy the s22

cheers yeah I recently had a really quick ride on a V14. unsure of the batch. I liked it, very comparable to the patton. My impression is that the extreme and patton are a tougher design if you're beating em up on trails. The suspension was very plush and far more linear than I was expecting. The air suspension when I tried the extreme wasn't setup for me so felt terrible. I haven't put in the hours on a 16" so can't comment too much. hope that helps

I'd say until it becomes an issue with weeping oil or the suspension isn't performing well anymore. which is the same thing due to oil loss. The life can easily be extended by popping off the dust seals from the stanchions and cleaning them. Otherwise I reckon a safe bet is 6 to 10,000 km (3,730-6,200miles) or Every 1-2years depending on the amount of offroading.

Hey Guillaume, yes it should be reasonable to copy those. For bolts that are the same size but different torques, it is based on the thread it's going into. So for thinner shallower holes use the lower bolt torque value.

that'd be a great use case that i'd want it. yeah i'd be done with a wheel that did that too. cheers

i charged it about a month ago after that video. It was pretty quick to charge and I haven't had to charge it since. I reckon the battery lasts longer because the horn automatically goes into standby after 40minutes. movement causes it to wake. I don't often arm the motion alarm so that has helped maintain the battery.

@@jonoeuc thanks for the info! I don't typically arm mine and I find its always draining battery sensing for the remote. I might pick one of these up.

This one won't work with handlebars. It is possible to use them on the escooter but my grip is impeded and isn't as firm and escooters aren't as intense as MTB. It's my understanding that wrist guards aren't used with bikes. Best to practice and learn the tuck and roll!

Hey Pawel, here are my order details: FO25193001S-M Fox Titan Pro D3O Black CE Elbow Guards - S/M Flexmeter Double-Sided Wrist Guards D3O for Onewheel™ M / Black Mine just touch but it's not binding or causing problems. An important measurement is my forearm length which is about 30cm (12") 'How to measure forearm' i.imgur.com/6DNVKu8.png