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RC Maker makes a really nice carbon fiber version of it. You might be able to find that one closer to where you live.

Yes, some of the guys that are running mod are doing the esc swap. This mount also adds more torsional flex to the chassis. I am very interested in that aspect of the mount. I hope to do some testing later this week.

Yeah, not sure what went wrong. It was all in frame in editing...

No, the mounting holes are not the same down the center of the chassis.

@@FullSendRC804 was telling my self the same thing, thanks, have a good one

It has a bit more body roll than the Wolverine. It's a bridge between the Twister and the Wolverine.

Good question! No, not really any video on that because there really isn't one setting that will work. It all depends on the ride height of what your car is and how high you mounted your body. It's more of a tool to be able to duplicate a body that you know doesn't rub already and get it lower. Good idea for a video on this, thanks!

Thanks for the question. Well, it does flex more than the stock alum. chassis for sure. I am not sure if it flexes more or less than a carbon chassis. If it were me, I would still use the carbon for asphalt. With that being, I would at lest try it myself on asphalt just to see how it feels versus the carbon.

I left it as it was stock.

liquid chrome paint pen from molotow. 1mm tip

Correct, it changes our track width too, and also effects the up travel settings.

It is the Traxxas Fluorescent Green backed with white. Traxxas part number is 5062

@@FullSendRC804 really thx man

@@ceymwa You're welcome

Thanks!

Well, it's way better to mount for sure than version 1. It's not so paper thin. As far as not cracking with a crash......we will see!

Yes, it does make a difference if you are running stock vs. mod. The main reason is the way a mod car needs to transfer weight front to back more to get the car to turn into the corner after hard breaking. The Wolverine is a great body, I still have a couple I take with me at all times. I will have .4 and a .5 think with me as the heavier one will give you more body roll.

The OG is always good to have on hand!

They are the same as the stock Xray servo saver. The top hole is 19mm and the bottom is 16.5

The Sagami horn uses the springs and mounting hardware from the Xray servo saver.

@@FullSendRC804 In Europe we do not use servo safers because it is said that they make the steering indirect and wobbly. Do you have to change the spring, which was probably designed to be very hard, often?

@@TheJPower88 I know that a lot of the drivers in Europe don't use savers because of the type of track barriers used. In Europe, a lot of the tracks use curbs where as here in the U.S. we use hard boards. Our servos last longer if we use the savers. I might replace the springs every 6 months. I don't find that the saver feels indirect at all.

It's not a screwdriver, it is a small pointed pick tool. My plates slide pretty easy so it doesn't do any damage to them. I take very fine sandpaper like 1000 to 1500 grit and smooth the edges until they move easier.

@@FullSendRC804 thanks!

@@FullSendRC804 BTW do you use the pick under the plate or in the oil hole?

@@nunocarrico I use the pick in the hole. My plate moves easy enough that I don't really worry about damaging the plate or the hole.

I usually run between 2 short and 3 short(negative) The closer to 0 or positive you are, the more stable the car will be. More short the more aggressive the steering will be, good for tracks with good grip.

I usually run 2 short or 3 short(negative) caster. This makes the car more reactive when you run negative caster. Zero to positive caster gets the car off the nose and is easier to drive.

If you have negative caster, the wheelbase is shorter and if you have positive caster, you have a longer wheelbase.

Hub pointing into car gives more steering but looser rear, more towards centre gives grip, pointing to the back of the car makes car super safe so for ultra low grip

@@superstock9261 100%

Yes, getting into onroad can be hard. I am trying to give a little info to those guys that don't have good help at their local tracks. Thanks for your support!

Thanks bro!

Sure, what you got?

@FullSendRC804 I just purchased a send hand xray T4 and I'm trying to get everything sorted. It's my very fifst 1/10 scale touring car. I got a Zerun G4 21.5T and a Zerun XR10 Stock. This setup will not work with sensor cable connected. I've tried severing motor direction in the app and still. It does this weird kind of logging jumping motion when I try to give it throttle. This is with no load on the motor. I know I'm asking alot but is there any way I could contact You to send You a video showing what's happening?

@@raindeergames6104 Are the ESC and Motor new or used? It sounds like it might be cogging. If so, you should send it back to Hobbywing for them to check out. You might make sure the sensor cable is plugged in all the way.

It gave me more mid to exit steering.

Yes, I enjoyed your video but I think it would have made it even better is if you would explain what those changes actually did

@@jerryfreckleton3858 what video?

it is triangle shaped part that bolts to the front or rear hub to be used in addition to the Hudy system. It points to how many degrees of caster is in the car.

You can see them here.www.sidepieceracing.com/MAX-02-001?search=caster&description=true

@FullSendRC804 thanks! I assume this is not needed with the xray x4 because the caster is set by the shims which are marked with their dot system?

@@mhrcracing That is correct.

keep me posted

BS Works makes it. You can get it a couple of different places. You can email Bill at BS Works at bsydor@aol.com or you can get it here:www.sidepieceracing.com/new-hotness/2024-february/BS-BH-001-03

Very good info. Did you run the -1 arms in the front and the rear? I might try taking the spacer out from under the rear hubs and maybe use the wider rear hexes to get the track width back. Or just maybe try hex spacers for the rear.....

@@FullSendRC804 no just front as it was a very tight asphalt track with a painted surface called boral coat. Benefit with the short arms is it keeps everything at the same geometry. Xray use narrow hex hubs for example and it mucks up the geometry causing excessing tyre wear. Maybe go barrow front and rear and raise the rear hub by 0.5mm or go slightly higher shims on the rear top inside links for better rotation.

@@superstock9261 Funny that you mention that about the rear upper shims. I am running 0.75 higher in the rear now.

If he does have a fax, doubt that he would know how to use it! lol

It is, and it does not surprise me that most are in Europe and Asia.

I believe you could do that with setup wheels, but you still need to put the weighted wheels on both ends of the car. Unless you are talking about putting weights on all four setup wheels. If so, then yes I believe your idea should work. Try is and let me know what you think!

I have never measured the difference of the motor with or without the fan shroud. I think it does put more direct air to the motor and less air being lost with using just the fan by itself.

Thank you.@@FullSendRC804

You're welcome@@imumutkilic