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You can output 15KHz with an older graphic card and not need to downscale. But if you wanted to use an external scaler, my recommendation for downscaling integer upscaled games is the OSSC Pro.

Thank you Mr Chicken! I’m glad it was helpful, even if not used to assist with the application of an RGB mod it’s nice to know how the sausage is made

@@hellrick633 I later retired the A.R.P. skit but maybe it’s time for a comeback

@@DoggyCet2121 I have never used a Steam Deck but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work

@@leonkiriliuk you’ve got the rarest of the bunch, and what a herculean effort to attempt to dump the fw. I believe the main difference in the latest fw is sync optimisation. These are pretty awesome if used exactly as intended and I got a hint at how seamless it could be when using it on the NEC multi-sync.

@@MarcoRetro316 Exactly. If you have have a 31khz PCB (e.g. Sega Naomi) in your Astro City, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 240p down scaler than the UVC to handle that 640x480 resolution. The UVC was not designed to work with game consoles nor TVs and hence all the issues you've had. Keep up the great videos!

@@parski I use an HDMI to VGA DAC and then use this passive circuit circuit to combine HV sync www.retrorgb.com/building-a-passive-sync-combiner.html

@@MarcoRetro316 Brilliant, thank you!

12:14 keen ears!

Thanks! S-video doesn’t have the same universal approach as RGB but I did find a guide for the BA-1 chassis. It seems a bit involved and according to the OP, they figured a way to add S-video without disabling RF and composite shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=65583&start=120

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks a lot! I’ll check it out anyway.

@@wej4life eyy you might be the one person that benefits from this video haha. I’m glad it could be useful in your setup. If you’re going to use it as it was intended then it’s going to work really well and you shouldn’t need to worry about sync and RGB levels going into your Astro City. Once you set the dip switches and adjust the HV centring on the chassis then it’s good to go and it should just work. Sometimes simplicity is better and you can enjoy more time playing games than messing around with settings.

​@@MarcoRetro316just so I don't screw things up too badly... What is the pinout you set for your dsub output? For reference I'm planning on feeding the UVC output into a Jammaizer device which is designed to convert a 15khz console/PC input to jamma video. I'm looking to eliminate any extra cobbled together jamma harnesses if I can and just keep a cleaner solution altogether since I already have all of these things on hand.

@@wej4life the molex connector? If you have that connector at the top and the db15 connector at the bottom, looking at the molex connector pins from left to right is H V Ground Blue Green Red. It’s in the manual which I’ve linked in the description for reference. You might need to play with the sync dip settings to get it displayed properly

This is the main use case for the UVC from back in the day. I've owned multiple UVC's over the past decade and still have 1 in my New Astro City cab. It's still the best device for taking Sega Naomi 480p and converting it to 240p into your MS9. Naomi native 480i on MS9 looks horrible otherwise. I've also seen 240p on a Samsung trisync in a NNC sit down and Blast City, and prefer the MS9 look (which UVC does a great job in keeping authentic) Trisync monitors make content look too sharp - PC emulator like. Enjoy your MS9 + UVC!

@@MagisterHamid lol there’s a couple. MIMO Genius II is up next

@@MarcoRetro316 ah that one is rare as crap. I remember reading Fudohs review of it.

Cool I cannot wait for the MIMO Genius II review. Do you have one on hand? I am curious to see what power supply to use with the MIMO Genius II.

@@DJCrazyNights yes I have it with me with the original power supply. It’s the same one used in ex_savior’s video.

Cool I picked up a brand new MIMO Genius II a couple months ago but it did not come with a power supply. Could you tell me which one it uses. I can not wait for the review. Maybe I will finally hook mine up HAHA. Thanks for all of the great retro content.

Thank you for bringing this up. When I used SNAC, it didn’t work with the intermediate shifter, though it should have and was possibly just a poor connection. You’re correct that it needs the level shifter, again thanks for bringing this up and I’ve pinned a comment to bring it to attention

Also a good alternative for the learne experienced modder. I bought an Aliexpress TV chassis but haven’t hooked it up yet as the neck connector did not match the CRT. It only has composite input but the jungle chip allows for component. It’s there for a rainy day

@@rawkandetc thank you amico!

@@parski yes, and the Crosspoint addon to output analog video. Apparently the hardware is done and now it’s down to software

@@MarcoRetro316 Really looking forward to your video on it. Oh and great job on these, I can tell you put a lot of effort into them. Thank you for that.

@@parski Thank you!! That’s much appreciated. I’m looking forward to see if Pixel FX does anything different to the OSSC Pro as I’m told the Morph will also decimate. Maybe it’ll also output S-Vid/composite through the Crosspoint? If so then it’ll be a very attractive option

@@sataniachya1840 you’re very correct about the resolution downgrade and IMO 240p is too low a resolution for modern 3D games. I’ve always recommended to output 480i for 3D games if downscaling to a 15KHz CRT, but the uVC unfortunately doesn’t interlace. Though the image is somewhat more preserved in this case because it’s properly scaling rather than decimating which completely strips away half the resolution. Some CRT gamers might just prefer the aesthetics of seeing scanlines, or may have a high TVL pro monitor that has jarring interlace flicker.

I haven’t dabbled with custom masks before. WhenI finally get around to it I’ll let you know how it goes importing masks from the Mister. Otherwise if you’re on discord you could ask in the Classic Gaming group under the OSSC Pro channel

@@MarcoRetro316 ah I see it's an unfinished feature. Thanks for the reply. Could you not reflect that in the wiki? I can't be the only one wasted time trying to figure it out. Also firmware updates need to in uppercase letters, ammend that in the wiki. Great device though, thank you for all the hard work.

@@Wayno220 I didn’t write the wiki 😅 I’m glad you found some answers

@@MarcoRetro316 sorry bud, mistook you for the creator of ossc pro.

@Wayno220 oh Markus/Marqs is an easy mixup. I’m flattered, the guy is a genius

@@RobotChild holding out on us with the uVC’s lol. They’re very niche but could be sought after by some veteran arcade enthusiasts

@@MarcoRetro316 They were quite cheap and plentiful on Ebay back when I first got into candy cabs 12 years ago. I'll probably toss them up for sale sooner or later.

You're sitting on a gold mine. I've sold 2 in the last year for a few hundred dollars each. Figured I only needed 1. :)

I’m not really sure why only 1 TV gets a stable picture while the other doesn’t. There TV has no problem displaying component from another source? Is one an HD CRT and the other is standard def?

@@MarcoRetro316 those are both SD crts. The 27" displays something the 13" shows a black screen

@dremcfleuve if both TV’s display other component sources then I’d check the other variables like the DP to HDMI converter (maybe the converter doesn’t handle 15KHz?), see if the 720x480 custom res is definitely interlacing, and try passing any other 480i sources though the HDMI to component DAC

@@MarcoRetro316 I will have to do more tests. The Playstation 2 works wonderfully with component on both TV-s. I will try the Nindendo Switch through the converter and try also plugging the converter to a HDTV

@@dremcfleuve definitely troubleshoot all the variables in the chain. Keep in mind that the Switch will output as low as 480p and will need downscaling to get to 480i (I might know a guy)

Only the hardcore stick around. I’ve got another niche one coming soon

Thanks Adam! I remember coming across your channel years ago when featuring CRT’s and pro monitors. Great stuff!

Thanks! The fnirsi 138 is good enough for measuring peak to peak voltage and to visualise a simple waveform. I’d probably look for a beefier scope if it’s to interrogate waveforms to help diagnose and fix a CRT

@@MarcoRetro316 - Can you recommend something cheap? I am totally new to this.

@@brentgreeff1115 I’ve been looking at getting an entry level scope and the brand Siglent seems to come up often, second to Rigol. A 2 channel scope is probably all I’ll need but I’m wondering if I should invest more for a 4 channel scope like the Siglent SDS1000X-E. They’re considered great entry level scopes on the eevblog but considering my use case they are a little out of my budget

@@MarcoRetro316 - Thanks will check them out. I want the cheapest one that will do the job.

@@aptgetgnome everything’s rare and expensive on this big island. Thank you for following the series. More to come very soon

​@@MarcoRetro316 240p está se saindo mais caro ou igualmente aos de alta definição.

@@finalboss5545 I’ve unfortunately chosen an expensive hobby 💰

I guess the uVC was good for something then. You’re winning with the OSSC Pro. Thanks for the kind comment!

@@LovingTechLife Grazie David!

@@owenpalmer6461 Hey Owen, thanks for watching and for the comment. Amazing PVM you have there. You might be able to use CRTEmudriver to output 480i via VGA if it’s an older laptop. I haven’t ventured into this yet but I plan on making a video sometime soon. If it’s for video and 3D games then 480i will look vastly better than 240p and a $50 HDMI to component scaler is definitely the cheaper option than most of the Downscalers I’ve featured. There aren’t too many cheap units that scale down to 480i anymore, as most only go as low as 480p but if you can find one then it’ll definitely suffice. If you had the extra money to spend on a unit that will give you more resolution flexibility and picture adjustments then I’d recommend a compatible tvONE Corio2 scaler or the OSSC Pro.

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks for the reply, that is pretty much what I understood from the research I did and from your videos. really appreciate the conformation though as I have not seen much about PC to 15kHz CRT outside of gaming at 240p. Will continue to enjoy the downscaling chronicles and possibly upgrade if I want to try games other than the PS1 in 240p👍

@@_specialneeds Generational Gamer made a few videos showing that it can be done with physical carts for those systems. Though it really is dumping the rom into memory so it’s not really playing off the cart, and there needs to be some funky workaround like I’ve done to use the carts saves, where a modified core would be better than batch overwriting saves. I actually tried a usb CD drive to read original ps1 discs but the core looks for iso and bin/cue so it didn’t work. But if it can be done in a more streamlined manor for the more popular cores then it’s basically the FPGA of polymega

Thanks mate!

@@Miketage thanks Mike!

Just be controller requires charging. The receiver is powered by the console

Hi, composite is connected with a female RCA to male BNC adapter, and for RGB, a female scart to male BNC adapter

Yeh sure I’m always happy to help

@@Vapor-q6q I’m glad it was helpful! DVD combos are usually connected internally using S-Video or component. If it’s component then chances are it’s occupying the only RGB/YPbPr input but that’s a broad assumption. Best way to find out is to search the schematic or open it up and see what’s going on

@MarcoRetro316 I wonder if I can disable the DVD component in order to get access to either S-video or component. Weirdly enough it has a S-video out port! Anything is better than composite lol

@@Vapor-q6q In that case the DVD might be connected via S-Video. Sounds a little more promising

@@MarcoRetro316 I hope so! Now I just need to learn how to read schematics, I have the soldering skills but never really learned about schematics and alot of the symbols and terminology is still foreign to me

@@brandonsterling1490 no I haven’t. I have one of those older wavebird knockoffs which works really well

Yep! 2001 was a good time. Feels like yesterday and a lifetime ago

Yeh it was hella expensive, I’m still recovering lol. I’m waiting patiently to see how the eventual Crosspoint addon will turn out for the Pixel FX Morph 4K. If the hardware and software is well optimised then it’ll be a much cheaper alternative and may even be more convenient for downscaling without needing an external DAC, we’ll have to wait and see. It’s difficult finding a CRT that supports mid resolution 24KHz. I’ve recently been looking for one to test another downscaler that can output 386p and 240p

Mux is such a cool implementation. I feel like neck mods will gain some traction for really old sets and arcade CRT’s with the availability of Frankencade’s RGB amplifier and the Aliexpress jungle on a chip.

All great points my friend. I assume the manufacturers would save a few dollars per set on a mass produced run. They would have never thought in hindsight that us nerds would be reverse (or forward 🤔) engineering these TV’s 30+ years later. I’m impartial to scart more so that it fits my ecosystem of cables and switches and it ‘just works’

Thanks Petey! No ragrets, the vids can wait and camping would have been much more fulfilling. I’ve wanted to make this video for a while and hopefully it gives the inquisitive CRT tinkerer that bit of knowledge to modify their set.

@MarcoRetro316 it certainly will help me, I just scored a 34" konka for cheap with s video that I want to try rgb modding. Then I want to try that g1 mod and make it into a pseudo pvm

@@GeneralPetey that sounds like an awesome project!

Thanks Roberto!

I’d check with the modder if they’ve done a few sets and maybe some pictures of the mod work. It’s definitely a cheaper option to a pro monitor.

@@MarcoRetro316 i see thank you

Hi Keith! Jeremiah Johnson only exists as the nodding meme to me but I’ll have to give it a watch to see if the movie outshines the meme 😆 I’m glad you featured the Frankencade, otherwise DJCalle might not have passed onto me it’s existence. I appreciate Steve’s feedback that he commented separately about using a 4 pole double throw switch to retain usability of the chassis, my neck mod segment was a little hasty as your video did a great job at showcasing it usability for a single source scenario. My videos take me sooo long to create in its current format, but it’s how I operate and I’m usually happy with how they turn out. I feel like I’ve gathered my rhythm compared to some of my earlier videos. Would you believe… it’s all shot and edited on my iPhone! If I were any better at ad libbing then it would make the process a hella lot easier. Go with whatever format works for you as doing all of the post processing of animations and timings etc is very laborious. That big balls segment has a healthy spike in the viewership graph lol. As you said, the first time discharging or working on a live CRT brings out that manly machismo. Probably half of my videos have focused on downscaling and I’m going for full completion of all 240p downscalers at this stage with a finish line in sight, so there’s a few more devices to showcase. I had no idea you were in Thailand. Lovely country. I’ll drop you an email shortly. Thanks for the technical depth that goes into your videos and for the kind comment!

Thanks! I guess I confused sync strippers with 32-bit strippers

@@gabrielv.4358 RGB is universal and you don’t need to feed a particular type of PAL or NTSC signal for sync. As long as there’s sync then the CRT will operate at that vertical frequency

@@MarcoRetro316 Ah, ok, well, thanks again!