Видео

Thank you for the kind feedback... I've only done 3 installs...the third one being after making the video... Hope you have a Great New Year!

@@paulscountry456 I just wish KTM hadn't left out 6th gear ... Makes the bike not competitive in Baja... Happy New Year!

@@ef2967 I'm still using the shorty double take mirrors with same custom mount. I love the setup... It works extremely well for traffic monitoring and is completely unnoticeable when in off-road mode. It will be my go to mod for future DS bikes. Happy New Year!!

@@jimcobm3 My mod was a test to see if it fixed what I was feeling...it did so I don't need an adjustable bar. However, I would buy an adjustable one if I got another jeep. Note: too aggressive of a steering damper can cause sort of the same feeling. Hope you can get your's resolved.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq OK gotcha, thank you.

@@carrytrainer.editor3321 another option, but more expensive is the Banks I-Dash setup. It has a lot more info and a-pillar mount point...very clean install and well worth the money IMHO. Glad you found some info helpful...have a nice one...

@@bagbrothers7787 staged at the bigger Searchlight gas station. Rode south to Laughlin hills then back .... Topped off at CNA gas station (the video thumbnail ). Rode about an 80 mile loop. Have a nice one....

@@Tdogmalog502 I'd like to go back one...

@ do you not live near? If you haven’t rode it this year than you might be disappointed, it has been scraped by a bulldozer and now there are very Little Rock’s and ruts it’s kind of too easy now

@@Tdogmalog502 no .. I don't live near ... About 1000 miles away. Bummer on scrapped surfaces ... I also rode some side two tracks ... I'm assuming those lower use sections weren't scrapped.

@ no just the main road that you took. That’s sad these Idaho trails are beautiful

@@darickymeister very nice .... It's nice to hear positive stories about EcoDiesels...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Mine just runs...

Thank you for the kind feedback... The mod(s) has been holding up exceptionally well...no issues, movement, knocking at all. Have a nice one...

Which ones are you talking about... the Bare Aluminum ones or the Black Aluminum ones??

The bare aluminum that are on the wall

@@scottrafuse312 They are made/sold by Pit Posse, but I purchased them off of Amazon... search for "Pit Posse Strap Rack" ... or just go to Pit Posse website... here is the link www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-strap-rack-45437.html -- Have a nice one...

Perfect. I like those vs E track, great video to help me finish out my trailer.

@@scottrafuse312 Thank you for the kind feedback...glad you found something usefully out of the video.

@@Ramboh4152 thank you for the kind feedback... I haven't found one issue or complaint (from myself) with this setup. Setup works excellent for both street and dirt... It is my go-to setup now. Have a nice one...

Good question...my answer is both Yes and No. Let me explain...I've had far too many Check Engine Lights for Emissions based codes (and non-emissions stuff). However, they pretty much are nuisance faults...didn't have to replace any parts (not I do all my own work and almost never take my vehicles to a shop or dealership service center). Most all of the codes are known conditions that have plagued the EcoDiesel setup. I have found that parking an EcoDiesel with the front of the motor pointed down a steep driveway/slope tends to accelerate the gumming up of the MAP sensor...which results in tripping the Service Elec Throttle Body message and/or MAP CEL Code. I just had to clean the MAP sensor and start parking my jeep with the front of the motor pointed up my driveway vs down. There's some other CELs, but I've posted videos on them...so if interested you can check out those videos (might just be one video...cannot remember). I will say this though...I strongly feel that an EcoDiesel vehicle is not for just anyone...there is some actual driving habits changes that one should do to help with the DPF...but that is try for any DPF diesel vehicle...just far more true for an EcoDiesel (IMHO). Have a nice one...

Thank you for the kind feedback...

@@hexhead5732 thank you for the kind feedback. I had to sell it a few months ago...had to replace it with a slightly wider and longer model... old one couldn't fit the new can am Rs SBS ... I'm actually redoing all the mods (on the new trailer) this week. 😞

Thank you for the kind feedback...

👍👍

@@wolverine565 I upgraded to beadlock wheels and 37s with about 5k on the Maxxis setup. However, the wear appeared to be not much for the mileage on them.

@@kevinmckinney9524 That's funny...I had the Ridge Grapplers on my short list. I only got the Maxxis because of supply shortages at the time of purchase (needed better tires for an up coming trip). Once tire supply improved and I had enough time and miles on the Maxxis tires ... I started tire replacement selection via a clean sheet of paper...and wanted to go from 35s to 36s. My top level performance requirements were: on hwy, desert, rocks, sand, hard pack. Secondary terrain: wet roads, mud, snow. This list made the Maxxis not the best choice ... So I ended on Ridge Grapplers or Baja Legend EXP (new tire at the time - hybrid tread pattern). I decided to go with the Baja Legend EXP option... and it has been an excellent decision. Note: I've owned Nittos for my 4x4 truck and track car ... The tires were always a brand and model(s) I liked for their performance... I really do not care about cost... I want tires that work how I expect them to and to not bug me when I'm driving down the road, on the dirt, or around the racetrack. One last note: the Baja L-EXPs don't really pick up many rocks in their tread ... actually fling less rocks than the Maxxis MTs. Ill put good money on the ridge grapplers flinging tons more rocks than the Baja L-EXPs. One more thing... The Baja L-EXPs in 37s had near the same weight as the Maxxis in 35s .... That was another reason I went with the Baja L-EXPs...they are way lighter than most other 37s Hope this info helps out some ...

@@kevinmckinney9524 My jeep is the slowest road legal vehicle I own ... Even my road legal dirt bike has a faster top speed....

@@jesusglopez8430 you're very welcome.... Thank you for the kind feedback....

I'm not brand loyal when it comes to almost anything. So when I use Maxxis tires on my dirt bikes, quads, and side-by-side it is because of Maxxis performance. I like a tire that provides lots of feedback and Maxxis usually does. They did really well to adequate in all types of terrain, however, snow and wet hard surfaces are their weak spot. I also wouldn't use them for mostly rocky trails. I personally wouldn't buy them again unless I lived/drove in soil type terrain vs desert terrain. The tires were an emergency purchase around the time when covid was killing the supply chains. I did a video just on the highway performance of the tires because there wasn't much info on it. Here is the link ruclips.net/video/DS97lswDzss/видео.htmlsi=2GkoZYJYVxSjGrB_

@@hitmanhite8958 Thank you for the kind feedback... Nice ride!! I have a 2020 KTM 500 EXC that I use the trail tech with....my dashboard, nav, and onx all in one. I also ended up putting a trail tech in my SBS. The one on my 500 only lasted a few thousand miles....it started to pwr cycle on warmer days and do strange crap with RPM graph. Thought it was the mount but it ended up being the actual unit. Have a nice one...

Pretty impressive ride! Sounds really nice... I've been doing a lot of research on the newer diesel emissions stuff every since I purchased my 2019 Cummins. I have 18k on my 2021 JLUR (I have 5 road vehicles that share my road miles) and have had more emissions base CELs than I care to list. I've resolved every one of them (no dealer visits for me)... and learned some key tidbits about these EcoDiesels. The best investment I made was to install the Banks iDash setup...it lets me monitor DPF backpressure, soot level, DEF commands, DEF tank level, etc. So I can see if my DPF is not clearing out (backpressure post regen cycle). I've changed my driving style some to be better inline with keeping soot gen slowed...i.e., I have 37s with stock gearing and I found that if I keep the highway/freeway RPMs between 2-2.5k the soot level burns down vs climbs. The biggest surprise was how fast the MAP sensor starts reading incorrectly (over pressure)..thus over fueling and generating extra soot...my MAP starting tripping "Service Electronic Throttle" with only 16k on the Odom. The reset of the emissions stuff can be easily (IMHO) cared for. The EGR snout isn't too bad to clean.... the DEF nozzle can be easily cleaned (it should be a scheduled maintenance item IMHO)...the DPF can be cut apart--cleaned out--and welded back together... all simple and cheap solutions. So I'm a little optimistic that I can keep my EcoDiesel emissions stuff working for many miles/years. One last item...I've been working on/testing a custom setup for an Oil Catch Can...it is still causing the CEL (like most every gets that puts a catch can on these 3rd gen motors)...but I think I'm getting close to getting it all resolved/adjusted for the PVC sensor. I'm going to post a video on the setup if I'm able to get it to work. I'm not sure how much oil it will catch, but I have a CAN on each of my Hellcats and I have to drain the CAN about every 3k miles (~1/3rd full). I think keeping some of the oil vapor out of the intake system will allow the EGR gases to not gum up as much....more likely to just pass through the engine vs attaching and building up on intake parts/surfaces. Fingers crossed! Have a nice one...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq DEF delete works also

@@irvinmoore6479 I wish that was an option in my region of the world...sadly it is not....😢

Good question... IMHO the two main variables that make the mod work well are: Mass & Volume. A 2mm pellet would easily address the volume side of things; however, I do not think that small of a pellet has enough mass. If they are made of lead (vs steel) then the mod should help some (if made of steel then will only help a little -- my best guess). I'd opt to use lead balls in the 3-4mm range. Here is what I purchased for the mod ( www.amazon.com/XS-Scuba-Diving-Weight-Orange/dp/B0020L0GKQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KVOQ2MQBF7LP&keywords=XS%2BScuba%2BLead%2BShot%2BWeight&qid=1681483388&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=xs%2Bscuba%2Blead%2Bshot%2Bweight%2Csporting%2C130&sr=1-3&th=1&psc=1 ). Also, be careful on the sizing stuff... "buckshot" is not the same as "shot" (#4 is completely different between the two -- #4 buckshot is 6.8mm -- #4 shot is just 3.3mm). Here is a link to a chart that might help ( www.rivermenrodandgunclub.com/shot-size-chart--recommendations.html ). Hope this helps...

Where to start... optimal tire pressure(s) depends on lots of factors (i.e., tire side wall-stiffness and height, tire size, vehicle weight, terrain, air temps, etc.). My 28 psi was for the specific tire I was talking about...and the info was to info people that 28 psi on the highway is perfectly fine with these tires. Have you every heard of the 4 psi rule of thumb for tires?? And for that type of off road tire, an excellent sand tire pressure starting point is 18-20 psi...then lower if sand is super soft. Don't take my word for it...just take a few seconds and google it. I'm betting that you will quickly find that your 28 psi advice is in a very small minority of people that would agree. Have a nice one...

No, I cannot say that I have...and I cannot imagine that I wouldn't have noticed if it did pop-up. I use an aftermarket gauge setup to monitor my REGEN status and state (% and if active)....so, if I'm getting close to a REGEN cycle I'll take a more freeway route (to my destination) to allow the REGEN to happen under best driving conditions. I also (when driving conditions support) do one last trick once the soot level drops (burns off) to 25%...I come to a stop and do a full throttle accel (60+ ish) to get high exhaust gas velocity & slightly higher heat for the last portion of the REGEN cycle.

I have I just drove on hwy for like 15 min 70 mph

Only got that once in my 21 in 75k miles.

👍👍

Thank you for the kind feedback... regarding foot pegs... are you talking vibrations in the foot pegs??? If so, then there really aren't many viable options IMHO....and none I'd do/use for an off-road motorcycle. Your options are to isolate the foot-pegs from the frame and/or isolate your boots/shoes/feet from the foot-pegs. Either solution, to work correctly, will make for a very mussy feeling where your feet contact the bike.... not something I'd like to be riding with/feeling when trying to control/feel the bike via the contact points...foot-pegs being a main one. Just my two cents..

See my first reply to your first comment/question. In short, I personally wouldn't call different stiffness springs being an advantage or disadvantage over lighter springs. All other tuning variables being equal (weights, idle speed, free-play, etc.)... heavier/stiffer springs just delay the initial and full clutch engagement to higher engine RPMs. A heavier spring setup will have a larger engagement RPM range (from initial drag to full engagement)...thus giving you the ability to use throttle control to maintain the clutch in a constant slip state (partial engagement). The lightest possible (correctly tuned setup) will make the clutch engagement happen from initial drag to full lock over a much narrower RPM range. One last note, a heavier spring setup will also cause you to lose a lot of engine braking -- clutch will disengage in the mid RPM range -- it will coast a lot more than with lighter springs. Hope this answers your question...

First off, thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question...I'd first say that it depends on how you ride (RPM range you like)/use the clutch. The auto clutch engagement function (and disengagement) is based on three variables... Clutch weights mass, spring stiffness, and engine RPM. The first thing to do is to make sure you have the engine idle RPM set where you want it (engine full opr temp). A higher idle RPM requires stiffer springs and/or lighter weights. Seeing that the only two things you can change easily, idle RPM and springs (kit comes with different springs)...lets focus on spring stiffness...seeing that idle speed/RPM is set where you like it. So, if you want the clutch to engage just off idle and disengage just above idle (when coasting to a stop), then you want to go with the lightest/softest springs that DO NOT generate too much clutch drag at idle speed (too light of spring stiffness will result in your free-play being partially used up due to the weights overpowering the soft springs and thus causing the auto clutch pack to partially expand (eating into your free-play measurement). Note: if you go too soft on the springs for the weights you have installed then to get the clutch to not drag at idle you will have to increase the clutch spacing and thus will end up having a slipping clutch even at full engagement. If this happens you will have to go with stiffer springs (and/or go with lighter weights--which I wouldn't do--I'd focus on getting the correct stiffness springs installed--correct being the clutch engages/disengages more inline with how you would manually be doing it). Hope this info helps...

That is awesome your recommended setup works how you want it to... I still cannot believe how good my 250 recommended setup worked compared to the recommended 500 setup...that sucked so bad I wanted to put the Rekluse kit in the trash!!

Not only have I considered it...I've actually done it on 3 of my bikes....and I still cannot touch!!! 🤣🤣

Thank you for the kind feedback. Regarding your request...yes, I can make another video explaining (better) what & how I did the mod. I'll post an unlisted video and will put the link in a new reply to your posted comment. It might be a few weeks until I can get this done...look for something before the Jul 4th holiday. Have a nice one...

@SteveSmith-wl8yq awesome. I see the post is 3 years old but I said "hey, try it". I'll subscribed to be sure not to miss it

@@multipleman189 Here is a quick video I made explaining the mod a little more...let me know if you need any more/additional info. ruclips.net/video/Dgz4LJ7iH04/видео.html

Thank you for the kind feedback.... The mod has worked out great!! I can actually use my mirrors on road and don't ever notice them (tucked away) off road.

It's been installed for over 9 yrs in my 2014 300 xcw (300+ hrs)...and no, still working/holding up.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq F king love these real life examples that been tested.. Thanks man.. AWESOME. im in!!! Also thanks for responding. Truly helps a ton of us! Im a newbie .. so thanks!!!!! God Bless! 🙂🙂🙂

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Subscribing.. thank you. Love folks helping others out

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq an 300 hrs at say 50 mph be like 15,000 miles.. plus your rattling the hell out of it on dirt.. ok im totally sold.

@@bwnco thank you for the kind feedback ... First time RUclips helped me was 2007 ... decided then to pay things forward-information (if I can). Have a nice one...

Yes, they didn't install 6th gear even though the trans is the xcw version ... So it is easy to make it a 6 speed if you buy the OEM parts and split the case. The bike runs out of gearing well before running out of power. My same year and model 250 does just over 100 mph...but it has a 6th gear.

First off, a big thank you for not stating that your completely stock bike does 130 mph...you would be surprised how my people make such claims. I owned a 07 CRF450 for my Baja pre-run bike..in mostly stock trim, but with slight gearing change...it could hit just over 100 mph...it took a bit, but it would hit it. My 1983 XR500R did right at the same top speed as your 2008 Honda. Even my 2002 stock CR250 would hit in the upper 80s stock. However, KTM really screwed up the XC models by not putting in 6th gear (the newer XCs have sixth in them). The bike (450XC-F), in stock form, has enough power to pull right at 100 mph...but gearing kills it...5th is just too short of a gear (IMHO)! And the 6th gear they didn't install comes out of the EXC models...so 5th to 6th is a street (dual sport) jump...making it suck for dirt (too big of a gap)...so I never got around to installing 6th.

I wish!! Lol...

Thank you for the kind feedback ... But, do you really believe you know "exactly" what tires I have on my trailer? I think you might try asking before you state stuff that you do not know, first hand, as fact!!

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct about not knowing what tires you have. I don’t believe a tire for a utility trailer has a speed rating above 75 mph. Although I could be wrong. As a professional driver I believe driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you.

@@lawrence7065 Since you felt it important enough to pass along unsolicited information/advice/your stance…it is only fair that any comments from you that can be validated as incorrect/uninformed/etc. should be addressed. First, speed ratings for tires...more specific…trailer tires (i.e., utility trailers). A person can quickly, and easily, find trailer tires with a M-Speed Rating…it only takes about 60 seconds. A M rated trailer tire (or any M tire) has a top speed of 81 MPH, at MAX LOAD. So, as you move below MAX LOAD the actual safe Max Speed increases (physics at play). How much is debatable, but it’s not going to be an insignificant amount (IMHO)-it is a math/physics thing…not an opinion thing. So, driving 10-20% over 75 MPH with a 40% loaded utility trailer (tires only using 35% of their max load rating), with at least M rated tires, is not really adding any measurable increase in risk due to tire rotational speed failure. For you second concern. Your statement that you are a professional driver is an important input; however, your comment after that is without a solid foundation…let’s call it a fact-less based discussion/statement. For you statement to be true, “driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you”, requires a lot…and I mean a lot of additional data to be entered into the equation. For example, driving in Utah on I-15, the posted speed limited (down south) is 80 MPH. So, if the majority of traffic is going…let’s say… 85 MPH… it is actually safer for myself and drivers around me if I travel at…or at least pretty close to…the pace of the surrounding traffic (this all assumes that I have a proper rated tow vehicle towing a proper rated trailer with proper rated tires and with environmental conditions supporting 85 MPH as a safe speed, and I maintain a proper safe space/gap between my vehicle and any vehicle directly in front of my vehicle, etc./etc./etc.. Additionally, if driving at a faster speed on a completely empty road --- not passing anyone and no one passing me…and no traffic anywhere near me for at least a tenth of a mile or more…then how is driving at those speeds (as you state) a risk to the traffic around me when there is not any traffic around me?...just a single car now and then…??? You seem to make a lot of fact-less based assumptions on things you have no first-hand knowledge about. And then you take it one step further by passing along “your” stance on how “other” people should behave. You know nothing about me…for all you know my skill as a driver is triple yours and thus you driving at 75 MPH is more unsafe to yourself and others than me driving at 85 MPH. The speed at which you are traveling is only one piece out of many pieces that statistically define/determine risk level. Thank you for your comments and feedback…

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct on tire speeds. Thanks for educating me. As far as safety goes. My opinion is over 65 mph it becomes unsafe. That’s how the state of Nevada feels as well. Speed limit for tow behind trailers is 65MPH in the state of Nevada. But overalls I’ll give you the WIN.

@@lawrence7065 I'm not looking for any type of Win...you commented on your opinion - with info...I replied with comments on my opinion - with info...it is more of an agree to disagree vs a Win/Lose thing. And a tow-behind safe speed of 65 mph also has average driver skills add into the equation...as are almost all max speed limits (road, avg driver skill, etc.). I'll take a bunch of professional drivers speeding all around me vs a bunch of too safe-scared drivers doing 20 mph under the speed limit and camping in the fast-lane! But, I'm more of a statistics type decision person... agreeing to disagree... Thank you for your comments and feedback... Have a nice one...

Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough...or at least it is better than it was!!

Thank you for your too kind feedback and comments... If it only helped one person it would still be worth it. Yep ... Still riding ... However, I do have a new 2024 KTM 300 XC that I've owned for 3 months and have yet to ride it!!! Life getting in the way of life .... Lol....

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Awesome news about the 24 XC. I have the 24 300 XCW. I just went through the entire spring issue with my bike. Slavens said six steel springs for this particular bike, didn't work at all. Tried three steel and three silver, almost worked. Called Rekluse and they said six red springs. I installed those and now it seems great, although I still need to ride and verify and that will be done today. I hope you get out soon on your new bike!.BTW, your information sure helped me big time, thank you!

@@onthethrottle7104 Nice!! Not sure if you picked up on the importance of having your idle set where you like it and the engine at temp before checking/adjusting the springs & Freeplay. I didn't cover that adequate enough in my video. Hoping to ride my 24 300 XC within the week....but our temps are hitting right at 100 degrees...so it will be a shorter morning only ride! Which Rekluse kit did you go with?

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Went for a ride today and everything was perfect! With six red springs engine brake holds all the way down to idle, and when taking off it locks up right away, as soon as you touch the throttle it's locked up. I broke it in per Rekluse and then took it up some nice hills and it's adjusted perfectly. Even after running the engine for at least 45 minutes everything works perfectly and no adjustments needed. With the idle set at good spot, the freeplay is perfect...it's just all working perfect. My left hand rear brake is also working perfectly. Going riding tomorrow as well but this time I'm going into a real gnarly area I'm used to and I'm excited to give this new system a test. I went with the Radius X, 4.0- it's the same one Slavens said to go with on the new XC and XCW's. The clutch pulls really easy and nice compared to a few buddies I ride with that have the 3.0, their clutch pull is kind of hard. They run 2020 XCW TPI bikes, so it's really the same clutch system for the most part. I will report back after tomorrows ride! Hope you can get out and ride as well. Thanks again!

@@onthethrottle7104 Thank you for the update and clutch model info... Sounds like you have it dialed in nicely.

Thank you for the kind feedback... First time for that approach... lol...

Thank you for your kind feedback. Yes, I agree, too many projects...I thought I could have most mods done to my Jeep within 18 months...well I'm double that time and still have a few remaining to accomplish (this doesn't include news ones selected over the past yr...just the ones that have been on the books for at least 2 yrs!)... lol...

Thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question "recommend a good ball joint for pitman arm end"...requires to know more about how you use your jeep, what tire size you are running, how long you plan to keep your jeep, etc.. There are many good enough ball joint manufactures you can choose from...too many to list. OEM is good enough unless you have already worn out the factory one (but I'd need to know how many miles on it). A smart move would be to just upgrade to heavy duty, but if you do not plan on keeping your Jeep and/or do not really drive off-road with it then that upgraded is not worth the extra expense(s) IMHO. But, if you are just looking for piece of mind then going with HD upgrade might be worth the investment/piece of mind. The ball-joints I went with on my knuckles are the Teraflex Dana 30/44 HD Ball Joint Kit...I'm not sure if they make a kit for the factory drag link, but they do sell upgraded drag links with upgraded ball joints. I think the market mostly supports all new HD drag links or just OEM ... people tend to do one or the other if replacing ball joints...because I really do not see many upgrade options for the part you inquired about. I'd try the following three websites to see if you can find what you are looking for...note...I think if you find the part it most likely is of good enough quality...these sites tend to drop/stop carrying crappy products (IMHO). Sorry I could not be more help. Feel free to ping me again if you do not find what you are looking for. teraflex.com/ www.northridge4x4.com/ www.quadratec.com/ Or give this site a try...tons of aftermarket parts and they sell replacement OEM drag link pitman arm ball joint option.... but they are not serious off-road focused like the three sites above. www.rockauto.com Hope this info helps...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq First of all thanks a lot for you nice answer and sorry for my bad English. Here you have a simple video for you to see the Wrangler: ruclips.net/video/vvZSRmwIdL4/видео.html It has 33 tires and all basically stock. I do something like 90% road and 10% off road when I go to the mountains near Madrid. I would like to know what it means a bigger investments going for the HD ball joints and bars. I plean to keep my jeep as much as possible I am very happy with it. It has the 4 in line Turbo charged gasoline engine and it feels really nice. My only problem is that after installing the new tires (Ko2) it wants to drive a little bit to the right by itself. The well is center and the toe is correct, but I think oneof the problems is some game in the ball joint which connect the pitman arm with the bar. Thanks!!!

@@samsaraAI2025 Nice looking Jeep! We do not have very many Yellow Wranglers here in the USA. Ok, a few pieces of additional info and an answer to your investment question. First your investment question. It costs a lot more money to purchase heavy duty parts and unless you are using your Jeep in a way that actually puts the heavy duty parts to actual work then you are better off just buying OEM (or OEM like) parts for a lot less money….because they should meet your needs good enough. I do have a follow up question: Do you know for certain that your pitman arm drag link ball joint is actually worn/bad?? If so, how was it verified as being bad?? Now to your steering pulling to one side. Here are some bullets on my thoughts: - The steering wheel being centered, or not centered, shouldn’t be the cause for any pulling to one side. - The pitman arm drag link ball joint being bad should be the cause for any pulling to “only” one side. It would cause more a sloppy feeling with the steering…i.e., hard to keep the Jeep driving straight on the highway/freeway (same type roads). - A pull to one side is usually caused by several different possible factors o Tire pressure differences (not small) between left and right side front tires o Caster differences between left and right side of front axle o Camber differences between left and right side of front axle o Thrust angle of rear axle and/or track misalignment between front and rear axles Also, here are a few thoughts on why the problem surfaced once you put on the bigger tires. There are several reasons, but the core one being that your OEM tires masked the problem and the new tires actually highlight the problem. Different tires (models, brands, etc.) have different sensitivities to vehicle alignments/setups/etc… to include road conditions… So, the new tires most likely are not the reason for the issue…they are just making the issue a lot more noticeable. I hope this info helps out some…

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Hello! I will try to answer all the questions :) 1) new tires are the Ko2 all terrain 33 inches. 2) pressure is ok in all of them 3) I measured caster and its around 6 degrees in both sides but I can be wrong. (I have factory arms, so I can not change caster) 4) I have Toe in more less 0.8 degrees. 5) Camber I dint measure but I dont know how camber can change. Maybe a blend axle? 6) My steering wheel is center. I mean I hold the steering wheel by hand and the car goes perfectly straight. But if I let it go it star a soft turn to the tight most of the times. 7) I went under the car and I asked my wife to make short left and right movements with the steering wheel. I then was touching and the ball joints and I was feeling a "clack" in the ball joint connecting the pitman. I was clacking when when the wheels were changing from left to right. My feeling to be honest is that the car is very very sensible to the change of slope of the road. Not the forward slope, but the lateral slope. Dont know very good how to explain it :) 8) and by the way do you have an email or something to have a better way of communication that youtube comments list? :D

@@samsaraAI2025 First off, I clearly and easily understood all your answers/info. Yes, I can be reached at (singletrackriding@cox.net).... also, my jeep had the exact same issue! I have adjustable control arms and thus was able to add a slight bit more caster to the left side and that corrected the issue completely. Here's some additional info: Question: do you feel that the steering wheel doesn't want to be centered when you let go of it?? Meaning, do you feel you have resistance/slight pressure to hold the steering wheel centered when driving straight? - Camber really will not change unless the ball joints wear...however, this doesn't mean that the camber was totally good from the factory...they only correct camber if it is way out and it is usually correct by using off-set ball joints (upper). Yes, a bent axle housing can change camber, but I seriously doubt that that is the case in your situation. - If it was my Jeep I'd have the toe set to ZERO... or as close as possible to zero. Your Jeep should steering/track a lot nicer/better with that setting (I set all of my road vehicles to Zero Toe). - Regarding the crown on roads...the best road to test steering pull is on a 4 lane (or more) highway...or find a section of road that has very little crown...but you really need to be at higher speeds to feel/see the pull to one side.

I had a really good time on that ride (actually over a few days)...but unfortunately I've one ridden that area once...the time with Dennis. I keep planning to head back there, but I end up not going due to having to ride solo (schedules not syncing up). Maybe this will be the yr I actually make it back there! Have a nice one and thank you for sharing...

I hope you get it good enough for your wife to enjoy driving it again...I know mine is amazingly good for being a Jeep with a lift and 37". I have learned several more important things since posting this video...info covered in the below bullets. - The measurement is 1.25" from center to center (you can most likely increase it to 1.5" -- but be careful to not have the sway-bar link come in contact with the rear axle housing during closest movement -- when sway-bar is end is perpendicular to ground) - I cannot remember what I set the caster at, but I'm thinking about 5 degrees. What I can say is that more caster makes steering inputs feel slow and less caster makes them feel quick (with Jeeps). I did end up putting a little more caster into the driver side due to the vehicle having a slight constant pull to the right -- the rest of the alignment was spot on (too include tire pressures)...and as a test I tried the slight increase of caster on one side and that fixed the problem completely. - Regarding Toe-in/out. I ZERO out ALL my vehicles to a ZERO TOE (no neg for pos toe). I find that ZERO toe makes my vehicles track a lot straighter with variations in road surface. It made an unbelievable difference/improvement for my Jeep Trackhawk and the wife's Charger Redeye (tires are 305 & 315 widths). - Last item (I hope I explain it well enough) ... and a very important one in my opinion. It is the steering stabilizer. Any resistance to steering movement caused by the steering stabilizer has to be overcome by all of the steering components before any steering input changes the direction of the front tires. To fully understand this effect try or imagine changing out your steering stabilizer to a solid steer bar -- your tires will not turn in any direction and not even the smallest amount ... however, as you turn the steering wheel steering components will start flexing and/or flex at their mount point(s)--having stored energy that is release as you relax the steering input. A too stiff of a steering stabilizer will generate too much resistance to movement and your steering components will flex some (and store energy) before the steering inputs changes the direction of the tires (and I'm talking the little inputs you make when driving on a highway/freeway) and then as you hold the steering input correction the stored energy will slowly release past the steering stabilizer resistance and you end up with a little more steering input that you thought you asked for...and you end up doing a steer left...wait...then steer right...wait...steer left again...etc... etc... IMHO this is mostly caused by the stored energy in your steering components caused by too much steering resistance caused by a too stiff steering dampener. If this is part of your steering issue (which I feel will be the case if an upgraded steering stabilizer is being used/installed), then I would seriously consider purchasing the FOX Factory Race Series 2.0 ATS Steering Stabilizer...because it has adjustable resistance and you can find the sweet spot of having just enough steering stabilizer resistance without causing too much flex/stored energy in the steering components. How I found a good setting with my FOX 2.0 dampener was to drive at freeway speeds and keeping backing out the stiffness of the dampener by two clicks each day I drove my Jeep. Then when I finally found that two clicks out didn't make it steer/track any better I went back in two clicks stiffer. I did this very same process on my 2019 RAM 2500 4x4 (used the FOX 2.0 dampener) and my truck steers that best it ever has. I hope this info helps out...let me know if you need any more follow-on stuff/info... I'm sure I'll get plenty of internet trolls telling me that I have my head up my A$$...but hey, that is price of admission for doing RUclips video posts!! 🤣🤣