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Thank you for the question. I have engraved anodized aluminum and stainless steel but with metals, a more powerful laser is best. Ultimately a fiber laser is really what you want for metal. They are costly. :) When I engrave glass I will use an airbrush to coat the glass with black temper paint to get best results but that is the technique that I like. There are other ways to coat the glass. Yes, I have had success engraving glass with this machine.

Thank you very much!, As you know, you do not have to sand the slate to use the dye. I like to sand the larger slates because I like the look but on the most part I do not sand the coasters. Thank you again!

Thank you so much for your feedback! You have some awesome toys to play with! I would love to have an IR laser. I would love to engrave metal. Some of that stuff is very cool. Thank you for your support!

Thank you very much! I love to hear that, I try to inform with my videos. It is fun for me. Enjoy!

Are you coating it with rtc or any other kind of resist after you let it dry? If not that is what needs to be done. Thank you for pointing out that I left that step out of the video. Doh! I can't believe I left that out. I see that was one of my first videos/shorts. I guess I was excited and totally missed that. Thank you for pointing that out. I think I have to make a new one now.

@@baronleathercraft I have been using resolene, but maybe not enough. My first attempt with 3 coats left it almost tacky... kind of, sort of. When it sits for a while it kind of sticks to whether surface it's on. I need to pick through your videos and see if I can find anything about applying the sealer. This video was great. I am very new, and use it for some type of faux leather. I'm engraving bibles. Trutone, I think. Anyway, the results look great with only the antiquing paste. Theme for any useful information, and thanks for this short!

@@johndavis3894 Resolene is good stuff. I have not used it for this purpose but it should do the trick. 3 coats does seem too much. I have found Tan-Kote or RTC resist works for me. I prefer RTC. I just give it one coat after it dries. The longer you can let the antique past dry the better. If you can wait till the next day would be best.

@@johndavis3894 I forgot to press show more so I missed some of your message. Thank you very much for the kind words! Leathcraft is a lot of fun and leather engraves very well. I have never used faux leather. Is it safe to engrave?

@@baronleathercraft excellent, I'll give that a try. Thank you.

That is an awesome idea. That would definitely work. Yes, so far so good with the splitter.

The Deft top coat not only gives the slate a nice shine but also helps seal the dye. Without a top coat, I noticed the dye takes longer to dry and can easily transfer to other surfaces if touched, even after a significant drying period. For example, the dye may rub off on your fingers while handling it. Letting it dry for an extended time might help, but using the Deft coat allows me to start engraving within about 10 minutes without any transfer issues. It does look great with just the dye but you might have to let it dry longer and keep giving it a finger or paper towel test. :) Let me know how it goes. :)

@@baronleathercraft Thanks so much for your time. I do have lacquer gloss and matt. I will give it a go. Thanks again Jdee

@@Rwebsite Let me know what you used and how it worked when you get a chance. I am not married to the Deft. :) Plus you asked if the slate is fragile. It is fragile with or without the clear coat. Slate is just a fragile material. Don't drop it. :) Thank you for the sub! Enjoy!

@@baronleathercraft Oh I thought the dye might be weak without a top coat. I have a few laser videos on my channel, Just starting with Fiber laser. I have broke slate before LOL Thanks Jdee

@@Rwebsite :) Ok, I understand now. I figured I was misunderstanding. Just checked out your videos and liked them. I would love to have a fiber laser. :)

I love to hear that Matthew! It makes me feel great that I was able to advance your knowledge and expand your abilities! Enjoy. :)

I turn my air assist up about a quarter way when I engrave and I set it to full blast when I cut. I found that when I do not use air assist at all when engraving the engraving comes out dull. It is for that reason I recommend at least a little air assist when engraving. Thank you for your question.😀

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Let me see if I can help you although it is best to also approach this forum section that is dedicated to TwoTress lasers. forum.lightburnsoftware.com/c/hardware/twotrees/36 plus the twotrees support team. That way you have more minds on your issue. www.twotrees3dofficial.com/pages/contact-us , With that said. Can you go into more detail on what is happening? When you say the laser sound, do you mean the internal fan? Does the beam ever come on? or does it seem to power up and make a sound and then not shoot a laser and just sit there?

Lets see if I can help you. Is the laser attempting to cut vertically or does the laser not admit a bean at all when it moves vertically?

It attempts to cut vertically and it does, but only 50-70% success. Other materials are cut fine

added photos but I don't know where they got added to)))

Some say that because the beam is rectangular, it is slightly less powerful on the y axis. If it was slightly , I would agree. But I ran 2 passes at 840mm/min at 35 power on a job and it cut well horizontally but not vertically. I ran another pass, still didn't get through vertically

@@peterkhokhlov1763 tell me about your laser, what type and what watts?

Thank you for the kind words and for subscribing! 😊 I'm glad the idea of sanding and staining could help you reclaim those coasters. For the AI images, I usually use the free Bing image generator. I save them as .jpg files at 1024x1024, which isn’t a huge size, but they work well for engraving. Once imported into LightBurn, the images automatically convert to grayscale. From there, I use the 'Adjust Image' feature. I enable 'Negative Image' and invert the display. I typically set it to the Jarvis dither mode, raise the DPI to around 317, and fine-tune the image by adjusting the gamma and darkening it quite a bit. Sometimes, I'll also tweak the contrast and brightness, but not always. For finishing touches, I lightly adjust the 'Enhance Radius' and 'Enhance Amount'-just enough without overdoing it. The image might look too dark on the monitor (at least on mine), but it engraves just right! You’ll find what works best for your style as you experiment with the settings. And feel free to ask more questions! I’m always happy to share-no secrets here, just sharing the joy of creating! Enjoy!

Awesome! Glad to share the info. Any questions just ask. :)

Awesome! So glad it helped. I love sharing this kind of info. These are situations I have run into and was sure other people would as well. I am hear to answer any questions I am able to. Just let me know if you need any help. As far as having a 10 watt and a 20 watt, The 10 w is what I use for engraving since I know it will cut, but slower then the 20watt. If I only have to cut, I will use my 20watt. 10 watt laser will engrave better then a 20w. The higher the wattage the less detail. I have a video on it if you did not see it already. ruclips.net/video/ERivjgul_FQ/видео.html

I mostly generate them with an AI website. Like the Vader and Dart Maul image. That came from the Bing image generator. The other image on the thumbnail and the video is from a google search for M.C. Escher, which is one of my favorite artist. I use that one for a sushi plate. The good thing about the Bing AI is that it is free. Hope this helps! Enjoy!

Thank you, I got it at Tandy tandyleather.com/products/craftool-3-d-stamp-hemp?_pos=1&_psq=hemp+stamp&_ss=e&_v=1.0 but I also found it on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Craftool-Stamp-8619-00/dp/B00WCBY6ZA

@@baronleathercraft cool

@@samhernandez1248 My Pleasure! Enjoy!

@@baronleathercraft thanks. Yo gotta say that’s a mean red , gold & green concept.

@@samhernandez1248 Thank you, I was going for a Jamaican Rasta Flag look. Guide I & Eye. :)

Awesome to hear! My goal was to share pitfalls I have run into with people so they would not have to. Sharing is caring. :)

Yes, absolutely. As you said, it works because it is subtle. It does get tricky when you have to create holes on a bag and then match the holes to a gusset. When I do this, I use a different but similar technique without using the balance option. I cut the stitch line into parts and then mirror them to the other side. Your concept of using mathematics is definitely the most precise option. I’ve done this using multiples of 4mm because I prefer that type of stitching iron. I started using the method in this video based on similar findings. It is easier and saves time. I often find myself spending hours behind the computer because I’m too lazy to cut and thong on my own. The laser is so precise as well. :)

Yes, That is what inspired me to figure out how to do this. Why trace it when you can have a laser do it with a much steadier hand then mine. :) You can also do this in inkscape which is a free program. Not as much control but can be done.

The space is very limited with this device. The work space is only 130mmx130mm. This would not be a good choice for engraving those items. If you plan on engraving those items you will need a machine that is tall. Extender legs are able to be bought with most machines, plus you will need a laser engraver rotary. The icube would not be idea. Anymore questions just let me know.

Thank you for your reply and great info😊

@@AndrewJacobsmusic Glad I can help. :)

I personally have not tried stainless steel but according to all the literature the 10 watt pro max is able to engrave stainless steel. It does state this on there website.

Lets see if I can help. What are the settings you are using? Speed and power?

​@@baronleathercraftEngraving: speed 6000 and power 75 it works too well. For cutting 100 speed 100% power and nothing.

​@@changelifehaveafun1984 There are a few factors that might be causing this but so it can't hurt to try to narrow it down. 1.Focus Issues: The laser might not be properly focused on the material, leading to less effective cutting. Most likely you are focusing the laser correctly but doing a material test with the laser focused differently can help clue you in. My guess this might not be the problem. 2. Material Differences: what kind of wood are you trying to cut? Some wood can be very dense and my experience with wood is limited. I mostly use leather and when I cut wood it is bass wood with is not very dense. 3. Beam Alignment: Is this a new laser? It is possible that the bean is not aligned well and might prevent the laser from concentrating in the right spot. 4.Is you Lens clean? My laser looses power after I cut a lot of material because the lens gets dirty and I have to clean it and then it works better. 5.Power Supply Issues: If it is your power supply then the laser might not be getting the full power it needs to cut. Maybe try another outlet. 6. Air assist helps when cutting. Are you using air assist? All of these factors can lead to a laser not working at it's optimum level. If you are using lightburn I would also recommend looking this up on there forum and have many minds trying to solve the issue. Here is the link, It is a great forum. forum.lightburnsoftware.com/

Make sure you have air assist. If you do not have air assist then you need to take off the air assist nozzle that comes with the DIY kit. I found this in the lightburn forum. He is having the same problem as you. He has a CO2 but you can still learn from the forum. "Trouble cutting 3mm ply" forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/trouble-cutting-3mm-ply/70555

@@baronleathercraft thanks u so much bro

Awesome! I am glad it helped. :)

My Pleasure! I hope it save you material from being wasted. :) Enjoy!

Is definitely been a challenge so far. I prefer how it comes out when the leather is wet, but it dries so quickly during the engraving process that by the time it gets to the cutting out of the little tags that I'm doing I need to re-wet the leather. So it becomes a race. Quite frustrating really... But I'm learning and that's the point in Grand scheme... I just know I won't be making any money on this job. But future leather jobs. Yes! :D

@@bnddbl07 Yes, there is never ending to the learning prosses. :) I wonder if your careful with a spray bottle if you can get in there and spray the leather as your doing the job. Just have to be careful. :)

@@baronleathercraft Oh yes, I had a nice wood "screen" in hand to keep the spray away from the laser head :D

Awesome! I agree, It is a great laser. I have been going back and forth between Algodelta and the DIY kit depending on what I am doing. They make great lasers. Lets us know which enclosure you choose and how it is working for you. Thank you for sharing and congratulations!

Thank you very very much!

It can engrave coated aluminum like in this video ruclips.net/user/shortseFmXL5tr0qw but if you want to really focus on metal I recommend a fiber laser which is a lot more expensive on the most part. Is engraving metal your goal?

@@baronleathercraft ok thanks I’m looking to try this out as a beginner.

@@baronleathercraft when I see people doing metal I see them spray it with something then then engrave it and wipe it clean

@@user-nn7kg7qf3i yes, you want to make it black. I use temper paint and an airbrush personally. There are a few way to apply it. The temper paint comes off easy and the airbrush makes the paint even. People have also used brushes etc. I just like how the airbrush applies it and I already had a cheap airbrush.

when you type in mm it will convert to pt but it will put the pt that represent the amount of mm you type in. It converts it but the measurements is what you typed in. But what will help you I think is, if you have rulers on, look at where the rulers intersect on the top corner the tool bar. It will show what measurement type you are set to. Right click on that and you will be able to choose what measurements you want to use. Let me know if that works for you.

@@baronleathercraft didnt work for me! i followed step by step the video and right clicking at the toolbar but nothing seems to work . im using affinity 2 . i wonder why your metrics automatically show ...while my mm is being converted into pt lol btw im not experienced, im only following along!

@@Zuki.. Lets keep trying, First I want to make sure I am guiding you to the right place to change the metrics. in the corner between the rulers: drive.google.com/file/d/1hQkx7mJwAIre0J5irYXacsLfnxJn7C0T/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1fsBdk__P2sifTUb7eumVQK7k3GT8cx1B/view?usp=sharing I created these images for you. The one with the arrow shows you were to right click and the other shows you what happens when you click on it.

@baronleathercraft ..im able to click the top left corner onto the options ..its actually already set to inches but its still functioning as if im using the pt metric!

@@baronleathercraft im using a macbook air

I do all engraving and cutting with lightburn.

@@baronleathercraft I got an one but been using lightburn for for graphics it does great but having problems with engraving slate on pictures it still doesn't turn out as vibrant. Everyone else else's does. I don't know what I'm doing wrong still kinda need to the laser engraving.

@@talesfromthedarkside9583 hehe, I am making slate coasters right now. The trick is to adjust your image. I invert and I set mine to jarvis. I take my gamma down so the image is pretty dark also I set my enhance radius to about 15 and then play with the enhance amount and then preview your image. Remember the laser only knows black and white so you want there to be some contrast, but you might not need to adjust the contrast.

@@baronleathercraft ok sorry for all the questions I just have one more the dpi setting I have read that 0.08mm is the laser spot size and it gives me a round 317 dpi because of laser dot size is that the highest I would be able to go

@@talesfromthedarkside9583 I do not mind the questions. A higher DPI is useful for designs where fine detail matters, but on simpler patterns, you may not notice much of a difference beyond engraving time. 317, That actually is what I use. I keep it over 300 and I have been using 317 myself. Engraving at a very high DPI (above 500, for example) may not always result in noticeable improvements due to the material's inherent roughness. A laser can only engrave as finely as the material allows, so going too high could lead to unnecessary engraving time without better results. You can always test it and make 2 of the same coaster and crank up the dpi for one of them.

Awesome! so glad that it will help your business! I was thrilled when I finally figured out how to do it. I knew I had to share this information. I hope the video gets more popular, so many variables involved in why a video gets exposure. Thank you for your kind and inspiring comment!

I assume you mean to print it out on paper since I mostly use a laser engraver. To print it out on paper it is best to create the pattern on a 8 1/2 x 11 canvas so it will fit on a single sheet of paper. Make sure you print a full size, in other words don't scale your image to fit on the paper. If the pattern is larger then a 8 1/2 x 11 I save it as a .PDF file and then there is a way to create multiple pages that can be stitched together. Here is a great video that can help guide you. Plus you can find other videos on the same topic. I hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/qf_UVm4NdIU/видео.html

Thank you so much!

@@thelemoncompany My pleasure! I hope it helped.

That actually was one of my fears when I converted some of my leather mask patterns to be cut with a laser. When I first cut them I would smell the char of the leather and of course masks are worn right up against someone's nose. I was like, I can't send these out like this. :) What I did find thought is that after a few days (even after building the mask right away) the smell went away completely. As of this day not one client has brought this topic up and I sell a good amount of masks. I think the ozone generator sounds like a good test. I would leave some outside of the box without the generator and some with the generator and then have a friend smell them and see if they notice. Do not even tell them about the laser cut and see what there opinion is. It could be keeping them in a box might prevent the smell from going away but that is what the test is for. As far as my findings, as I said the smell goes away pretty quickly. Make sure to sand and burnish the edges since that is where most of the contact with your laser is and most of the char is. Let me know how it goes! Great topic...:)

I wouldn't count on a diode laser to cut metal. If that is your goal you should look into a fiber laser.

Sure thing, it is 4.625 slightly over 4 1/4 inches but you can make it any size you want as you know. Thank you for the comment. :)

@@baronleathercraft thanks for the info and the very prompt reply.

yes you can, it is a little tricky sometimes but very doable. Also a great idea for a video. There is a few ways to approach this. After you scan the pattern you are going to want to convert the image into a vector. You can turn your scanned image into a vector in lightburn but it is limited and most likely not going to give you the single line vector you are looking for. I have been using Adobe Illustrator to do this ( Video here: ruclips.net/video/m0oKqHeBjeo/видео.html )but I have now been using a free program to trace my scans into a vectors called InkScape. I will make a video but I can not get to it right away. When you have your traced vector bring it into lightburn and cut out the pattern on a piece of cardboard to see if it is the right size for you. if not, resize it in lightburn. This is just a quick explanation but I am here to help you. Just write with your questions and I will respond the best I can. Have fun, don't get frustrated. This is how you learn and all this experimentation is going to help you understand your software and the steps you need to take to achieve your goal.

Thanks I appreciate any help, I feel like Jake in avatar when told him that he is like a baby, cause he doesn’t know anything 😊

@@rolltide5586 Not as dangerous of a situation. :) Just make it fun and write down when you have an epiphany on how to do something.

Thank you very much! As you see it is easy, just make sure the rag is not to wet and apply different levels of pressure to create different tones. :)

@@baronleathercraft started playing with that. Just made my first "guitar" burst the other day. Love the way it came out.

@@robertk-qn6mg Awesome! Guitar burst? I play drums that is why I am asking. Did you use this technique on a wood guitar or are we talking leather?

@@baronleathercraft no, that's just the way I used to describe how the dying looks.

@@robertk-qn6mg That's what I figured. I know exactly what you mean now. :)

Fast and simple! I actually found 2 pieces of wood that are 1 by 2 and I am able to fit a hole belt in them. I use wood clamps. :) Thank you for the kind and inspiring comment.

Thank you so much, Johnnyc! I’m thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful. I created it specifically for people like you who are looking for detailed guides on creating stitching holes in Affinity Design. Your supportive comment means a lot to me and motivates me to keep sharing useful content. Thanks again!

Thank you very much! I will look into hydro painting. Always wanting to learn as much as possible. Thank you for the encouraging comment!

I love to hear that TransAmCE! This is why I love making a video like this. I know figuring out how to make stitching holes in Affinity help me and I had to share the information. Thank you for the great comment and support! Enjoy!

I would have to look deeper into it. It most likely would be creating the shape of the hole and then creating shape to path. I also ran into this software but I have not tried it yet but it seems to create French holes at a quick glance. If you try it, let me know what you think. I just have not had the time to crack it open yet. Here is the link: coffee-craft.net/en/leathercraft_cad

¿Cuál parece ser el problema?

Thank you very much! This is a veg tan 9 oz belt strip. The leather is Hermann Oak Leather. I got it at Springfield Leather Company.

I am very happy with both companies. Both Algo and Two trees make great machines. You would most likely be happy with either of them. I would look into seeing what features you are looking for and see which systems falls more into your liking. Also look into which of these companies has the best support and check out both of these companies facebook pages and if they have a support forum. Both of these machines are priced right and are made well.

I have not tried but I will look deeper into it. You might already know this but a fiber laser is best for metal. They can do some awesome stuff but can be expensive. I will look into the stainless, I have a dog tag ready to give a try.

So glad you liked it. That is how I felt after trying a million different ways to get those holes to line up. :)

Thank you! I love your comment. This is why I made this video. It's is all about sharing what I feel would be helpful. Enjoy!

Thank you very much! Always trying to share what I think will be helpful.