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Awesome! This is why I made this video! Enjoy making patterns. Any questions, just ask.

Doh! Your the first to point this out. I will fix it. Thank you. :)

The nice thing about Weldwood is, as you pointed out, can be bought at your local hardware store. You can find Barge at your local Tandy store or you can order it online. I have bought it from Amazon. I also sometimes buy it from Springfield leather if I need to make an order for other items. It works great and it is kind of a standard for many leather crafters.

@@baronleathercraft you are full of info, thank you. I learned more than I expected in your video. You also do not him & haw or ramble. Good video

@@TingTingalingy Thank you! I try to make videos on topics that I know have been helpful to me without to much rambling. :) Enjoy!

I use barge thinner with my barge contact cement. The answer is: No, Barge Thinner is not the same as regular paint thinner. While both are solvents, they are formulated for different purposes and contain different primary ingredients. Barge Thinner Purpose: Specifically designed to thin Barge Cement (a contact adhesive) and clean tools or surfaces used with Barge adhesives. Main Ingredient: Typically toluene, though formulations can vary. Toluene is a strong solvent that works well with rubber-based adhesives like Barge Cement. Paint Thinner Purpose: Used to thin oil-based paints, stains, and varnishes, as well as to clean brushes or surfaces from paint. Main Ingredient: Typically includes mineral spirits, naphtha, or other hydrocarbons, which are less aggressive than toluene. Key Differences Chemical Aggressiveness: Barge Thinner is stronger due to toluene, while paint thinner is more general-purpose and less volatile. Intended Use: Barge Thinner is tailored to adhesives, whereas paint thinner is for paint and finishes.

Thank you very much! So simple really. The key is putting the darker accents in the most appealing place. Thank you again!

Awesome! Batch them out and let me know how it goes! Enjoy!

My pleasure! The dye make a difference. Enjoy!

Thank you very much! Certainly! What I use are what is called dotting tools. they are mostly made to make dots with paint but they are perfect for embossing. They are metal rods with a metal ball on top and they come in all different sizes. Do a search for 10Pcs Dotting Tools on amazon but anything you find around the house that is shaped the same might work. Enjoy!

@@baronleathercraft thank you so much!

@@glendabarajas553 My pleasure! Enjoy!

Thank you for adding that info!

Thank you! These are all things I have run into. I had to share this info so people do not waste time and material. Thank you for the kind words!

@@baronleathercraft I've done leather working for some years now, but just recently bought a diode laser. I'm still learning how to use it, and your video was quite helpful. The biggest improvement I made on the laser was to add a laser cross hairs to it, put in the x and y offsets, and now I know exactly where the program will start!

@@tomnotebaart9086 That sounds very helpful. All lasers should some with that.

Thank you for your question-I can tell you’re excited about getting started with lasers! They can be incredibly versatile and rewarding tools for engraving and cutting a variety of materials. One thing many people overlook when choosing a laser is the spot size of the laser beam. Spot size refers to the thickness of the laser beam, which directly affects detail and precision. Higher-wattage lasers typically have a thicker spot size, which can reduce detail in fine engravings. For example, when I need to cut something without engraving detailed artwork, I use my Algo 22-watt laser. However, if I’m engraving and cutting, I opt for my 10-watt laser. It’s slower, but it provides finer detail and can still handle materials like leather. Here’s a video that explains spot size in more detail: ruclips.net/video/ERivjgul_FQ/видео.html. Engraving on Painted Canvas Regarding your question about engraving on painted canvas: yes, this is possible! However, there are a few key points to keep in mind: Material Composition Most canvases are made of cotton or linen, which lasers can handle well. However, if the canvas contains synthetic materials, you’ll need to ensure proper ventilation to avoid exposure to toxic fumes. Paint Type Acrylic paint is commonly used on canvas and works well for laser engraving. The laser will burn through the paint to reveal the canvas beneath. Oil paint can be trickier due to its texture and may produce undesirable fumes. Laser Settings Use lower power settings to avoid burning through the canvas entirely. Testing on a scrap piece is always a good idea to refine your settings. Final Look Engraving on painted canvas creates contrast based on the underlying canvas or material color. It’s great for creating unique designs or text. Upgrading the Laser Module As for upgrading to a higher-wattage laser module, the AlgoLaser Delta can indeed be upgraded to a 40-watt module. According to the AlgoLaser website, their laser modules are compatible across all their machines. However, I recommend double-checking with AlgoLaser directly to ensure compatibility with the specific model you’re considering. I hope this helps! Best of luck with your laser journey-enjoy creating!

Thank you very much!

Thank you, I use Lightburn for all my laser work. :)

Thank you very much! You rock as well! :)

My pleasure, thank you!

My pleasure, thank you. :)

Yes, since this video I have used this feature, I found that it is most useful when you have to put something on an angle to fit your honeycomb bed. Thank you for pointing that out. This will be helpful to people that read the comments.

Awesome! I hope it helped. If you plan on using the laser for leather I also recommend this video. ruclips.net/video/djQ4_qhFWTQ/видео.html

@@baronleathercraft Thank you! I actually already watched that, saw it recommended after watching this one and thought it was exactly what I needed to watch next and it was! Lots of great info for cutting leather which is what I will be doing. Much appreciated!

@@zapador Great! I am always here if you even need some info. Thank you again!

@@baronleathercraft Really happy I found your video a few weeks ago, didn't take more than a day to decide to get a laser and I have no regrets. Super convenient and fun! I went with the Creality Falcon 2 (22W) with air assist and it works like a charm. So once again thank you for this very informative video!

@@zapador Awesome! You got yourself a mighty fine laser! Thank you for the kind words and I am so happy I was able to play a part in your inspiration on your laser journey!

My pleasure! Thank you!

Thank you! The small goes away pretty quickly, I make some masks with lasers and by they time they ship the smell is gone. so far not one mention of smell. You have to do the edges, they will be charged. I recommend watching this video, it goes into detail on the positives and negatives of using a laser with leather. This should explain all your questions. ruclips.net/video/djQ4_qhFWTQ/видео.html

Thank you for the question, I make sure that the pattern has tape on both sides so it does not get wet because you will be wetting the leather. What I use to trace the image is a some what pointy stylus. It indents the leather as you trace the pattern. Then you carve out the pattern with your swivel knife.

Merci. :) Si tous les objets ont été divisés en leurs propres objets, cette technique devrait fonctionner. Je suis curieux de savoir quels sont les détails lorsque vous essayez cela. Quels sont les pièges auxquels vous vous heurtez ? Ma deuxième solution est de les compter à l'œil nu, ce que je trouve pénible, alors j'essaie d'éviter cela. Faites-moi savoir comment ça se passe. Thank you. :) If all the objects have been divided into their own objects this technique should work. I am curious of what the details are when you try this. What pitfalls are you running into? My 2nd solution is to actually count them by eye, which I find to be a pain so I try to avoid this. Let me know how it goes.

Comment ont peut vous envoyer des copies d'écran

@@jeanpierrejipaille2973 allez dans la section à propos de ma chaîne et vous devriez pouvoir récupérer mon adresse e-mail.

Creating French pricking holes (slanted slits instead of circular stitching holes) is a bit challenging in Affinity Designer. Unfortunately, Affinity doesn’t have a robust ‘shape to path’ feature that allows you to seamlessly transform a stitch line into custom-shaped objects like slanted slits. If this is a critical part of your design process, tools like Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape offer much better functionality for aligning shapes along a path. Another great option is LightBurn. While LightBurn is primarily designed for laser work, it has a ‘shape to path’ feature that works surprisingly well. You can create the pricking hole shape in LightBurn, set it to a path, and it will even rotate the shapes correctly around corners. I haven’t specifically tested it with French pricking slits, but LightBurn should handle it effectively. Give it a try and let me know how it works for you!

Awesome! Thank you very much!

Thank you very much! This is a pattern I created and at this time it is not for sale and I just have it in cutout cardboard form. I will say that you will find that if you went ahead and studied the video I am sure you will be able to come up with a pattern very similar and you will be thrilled that you did it on your own. The sides and the gusset and the main body will have the same amount of holes. One extra hole on each side on the main body to really lock in the gusset. Give it a try. If you are not used to making patterns, remember, everyone starts that way. Enjoy the process. Thank you.

Thank you for the kind words! I bought it on Amazon. Here is a link: amzn.to/3Vjb5i5 .

Thank you very much! The song must of appealed to me since I used it for the last song. It has a great melody. Thank you for pointing that out. :)

great idea. :) As long as when you scuff the aera without changing the shape of the embossing (which seems very capable of being done). I think scuffing could only help with any sticking issue. On the most part, the paste not sticking is hardly ever an issue, but any idea that improves the technique is worth doing. I am making another octopurse right now. I will scuff this time and let you know if it improves the technique. Thank you for your input.

@baronleathercraft maybe a wire brush? And more passes less pressure?

They also have a billiard cue aerator. It's used on leather pool tips. Could use light pressure and a twist. The twist will do wonders when you see what a billiard cue aerator is, that is, if you dont know what it is. Don't twist on a cue though it will rip through it if it's soft.

@@nothenyes2527 Actually I use a tandy tool that is made just for scuffing leather. It is the craftool leather rougher. I did it last night and it did help. Plus this time I added more rubber cement and the mix came out like creamy peanut butter and work much better.

@@nothenyes2527 I will give a search for the item. I am curious. thank you. :)

Thank you very much for the kind words! Enjoy!

Thank you very much! Embossing leather just looks really cool to me. Adding 3D to any art seems to make it pop. :) Thank you for the kind words.

I personally found that more passes cause more soot from the smoke. that is my experience. Thank you. :)

@baronleathercraft interesting thanks. Mine should get here today.

My Pleasure! I love sharing this kind of information. Embossing leather is fun and it makes the craft really take on another look. :) Thank you...

Thank you very much! I love your comment. I try my best to share the information in a way that truly teaches. That way you can enjoy making patterns without getting to frustrated. Thank you again!

I have not done it but... Yes, you can make rubber stamps with a 10-watt diode laser, but there are some important considerations and tips to ensure success: Materials Laserable Rubber Sheets: Use rubber specifically designed for laser engraving. Regular rubber might produce excessive fumes or not engrave cleanly. Non-toxic Options: Ensure the material is safe to laser, as some rubber may release harmful fumes. Settings Power and Speed: Diode lasers generally require slower speeds and higher power settings to engrave deeply into rubber. Start with test cuts to determine the ideal settings for your material. For engraving: Use higher power (e.g., 80-100%) and slower speeds. For cutting: Multiple passes may be necessary due to the material thickness. DPI/LPI: Use a high DPI/LPI (e.g., 300-400) for better detail, as stamps require sharp and precise engravings. Image Mode: Set the image to a negative mode in LightBurn or your laser software, so the engraved areas become recessed. I hope this helps. let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!

Lets assume that you have everything selected, pockets and holes. If they are not grouped. If everything selected hold down shift and then click on the object that you do not want to be selected. It should release that object. So if you have all the holes and the pockets selected, hold shift down and click on the pocket to release it and then drag, it should not drag the pocket with it. Let me know how it goes.

the stitch lines won't separate no matter what I try...so I can easily drag the pocket by itself once duplicated, but I have to select the entire stitch line around the wallet or the pocket is just duplicated without the stitching holes. I even tried converting the stitching holes to curves hoping it would allow. It's super easy in Light burn to ungroup and select whatever stitch holes you want. I'm not sure that's possible in Affinity

@@baronleathercraft 27.44 in this video - you've got each pocket separated including the stitching holes, which all you needed to do was select the section, duplicate and it's done. That's what I am trying to do in Affinity and not sure how to do it since the holes won't allow to be separated

@@Shoresupply when you say the stitch line won't separate, do you mean they won't become individual holes or it will not separate from the pocket. I just trying to understand so I can help. what happens if you go to Layer, Geometry. divide with the stitching hole layer after converting to curves on the stitching line. can you manipulate it better at that point?

@@Shoresupply ah, yes you can separate them in affinity. take the stitching layer and go to layer and then to "convert to curves" then return to the layer section and go to geometry and then divide, and they will become separate holes. let me know if this helps.

Awesome! so glad that the videos are helping! The dye works great, anyone who engraves slate should use it in my opinion. I think your craft in the video looks great! If there are any mistakes in it only you can see them. I love the look. How did you get the brownish color around the birds? Plus, it looks very 3d. Thank you!

@@baronleathercraft It's copper with some brass black. I electroplated some nickel on the birds. I think most black is from when I re-dyed it lol When I re-engraved I just put a metal mask over the birds so as not to lase off the nickel or blacked areas. Thanks Jdee

@@Rwebsite I think it looks great and you used some unique ideas. That is the thing with crafts, it might not of been what your vision was but to a person that gets to view the craft , they see it without any filter. I think it looks really cool. I gave it a thumbs up. :)

@@baronleathercraft Thanks I did woodgraining on old cars for 25 years had to fix some old glove box door hinges and found the nickel plating brush kits online great for small metal parts. Fun stuff We would do shows at Hershey PA and I could see every little thing I did not like on my woodgraining displays, you are right we see what we don't like in our own work. Most don't

It makes me so happy to hear stuff like this! Thank you so much. :) I just get a kick out of sharing information that helps share happiness. Enjoy!

I completely agree with you! I used to rely on Adobe Illustrator for creating patterns, but the monthly subscription costs were adding up quickly-especially since making patterns really only requires the most basic features of such a powerful program. When I saw Affinity Designer on sale, I decided to give it a try, and I’ve been so impressed! The one-time fee is such a relief, and I actually prefer it over Illustrator for pattern design. That said, one feature Affinity currently lacks is the ability to trace an image and convert it into a vector. For that, I’ve started using Inkscape, which is a free program. While it’s not as advanced as Illustrator’s image trace tool, it gets the job done for my needs. I’m hopeful that Affinity will eventually add this functionality-it would make the software even better!

Very kind thank you! You will be leather crafters that are able to use modern tools to help craft your own ideas. :) Enjoy!

I really do not engrave wood very often since I mostly work with leather. Plus, each piece of wood will engrave a little different so you should always do tests if possible and then dial it in.

Yes, Thank you for the info. I am aware. Drawing a rectangle is an approach I used to use with an older version of lightburn and as far as far as filling or contour, I like to fill the holes if I am not going have the laser cut them out because sometimes I dye the leather before I punch out the holes and I am able to see the holes better. It is just a preference that I like.

I use Barge Contact Cement.

Awesome! Thank you for taking your time out to let me know you enjoyed the video!

Thank you. I agree. I have not been adding it to my latest videos.

Thank you very much!

Спасибо за ваш комментарий и за то, что поделились своим мнением! Очень приятно услышать разные взгляды на дизайн. Когда я выбрал(а) череп для портмоне, моя цель была создать что-то с легким оттенком дерзости и индивидуальности, но при этом не привязываться строго к какой-то одной теме, например, к рокерской или байкерской культуре. Хотелось, чтобы этот рисунок мог понравиться разным людям и легко интерпретировался по-разному. Мне понравились ваши идеи - скелет с гитарой или надпись добавили бы веселую изюминку! Ваше мнение для меня ценно, и я обязательно буду его учитывать для будущих проектов. Спасибо еще раз, что оценили мою работу и поделились своими идеями!