![The Radio Room](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 60
- Просмотров 16 299
The Radio Room
США
Добавлен 6 янв 2013
Exploring and learning about electronics and repairs to radios, power supplies and whatever comes across the workbench. This is my journey of learning, practicing, and teaching techniques and knowledge about electronic repairs and theories I have picked up over the years. I learn something new every time I work on something, I hope you will as well!
FT 101 With some problems Part 8
Wrapping up the FT 101 with some problems. Not so many problems now. Results of the TX/RX front end alignment and checking 10m output.
Просмотров: 306
Видео
40dB attenuator and tap box
Просмотров 548Месяц назад
I need to inject a small signal to align the FT 101, sometimes your test equipment won't do what you need to do, so take what you got and build something to increase capability. Here is an RF attenuator to bring down signal levels for sampling RF to your o-scope or Spectrum Analyzer or use it a little different and make your signal generator have more lower range when working on receivers.
FT 101 with some problems Part 7
Просмотров 181Месяц назад
Update on why I haven't had a video out for awhile. Further look at the 101 and signal tracing the SSB TX path.
FT 101 with some problems Part 6
Просмотров 1843 месяца назад
Maybe that JFET from the last video isn't bad after all. Explanation of what made me think I tested it wrong the first time, since I couldn't find a datasheet and didn't know the pinout for sure. So what else might be the problem with SSB output? Let see if we can find other things to look at.
FT 101 with some problems Part 5
Просмотров 3773 месяца назад
Looking at output power, neutralizing the tubes (cold neutralization method), and seeing if we can find out why SSB has no output.
FT 101 with some problems Part 4
Просмотров 5834 месяца назад
Checking to see if repairs worked. Power switch problem fixed, line filter capacitors, and fuse lamp replaced. Time to turn it on and see if it shocks me again!
FT 101 with some problems Part 3
Просмотров 1344 месяца назад
Reason why pewer switch does not turn of radio and where the suspected bad line bypass capacitors are.
FT 101 with some problems Part 2
Просмотров 1704 месяца назад
Checking the voltage on the hot chassis and discussing where the problem may be.
FT 101 with some problems
Просмотров 2564 месяца назад
Taking an initial look at an upcoming radio that needs work.
Yaesu FT 101E Project Part 7 Topside Recapping is done and giving a try on receive
Просмотров 1614 месяца назад
Recapping of card type boards is done. Replacement of Mylar capacitors completed on AF board completed. Trying the radio on receive and introducing another radio that came to The Radio Room for repair.
Yaesu FT 101E Project Part 6 Starting the Recapping
Просмотров 2484 месяца назад
Finally breaking out the solder tools and starting some real work on the 101E. Outlining the procedure for the recapping that I use. Enjoy!
Yaesu FT 101E Project Part 5 Update and parts that have arrived
Просмотров 1865 месяцев назад
Going over the parts that I have ordered and have received and what is coming up on the FT 101E.
Astron VLS 25M Will it work?
Просмотров 616 месяцев назад
Trying out an Astron VLS-25M that I acquired awhile back and never looked at. Plug in and voltage check with and without a load.
Yaesu FT 101E Project Part4 Turning it on
Просмотров 1316 месяцев назад
Putting power to the radio through a dim bulb tester and turning it on to see if it has any life.
Yaesu FT 101E Project Part 3 Update
Просмотров 2596 месяцев назад
Continuing with cleaning up and checking things on the radio. Going over some issues found that will need to be resolved in the long run. Getting closer to firing it up to see if it works.
Dead Alinco DM 330MV Part 2 To be or not to be alive?
Просмотров 5107 месяцев назад
Dead Alinco DM 330MV Part 2 To be or not to be alive?
Drake 2C Part 5C A short bit more listening to the Drake
Просмотров 478 месяцев назад
Drake 2C Part 5C A short bit more listening to the Drake
Drake 2C Part 5B Description of receive path
Просмотров 2898 месяцев назад
Drake 2C Part 5B Description of receive path
Drake 2 C Part 4 Actually listening to some siganls!
Просмотров 1378 месяцев назад
Drake 2 C Part 4 Actually listening to some siganls!
Drake 2 C Part 3 Found one of the Problems!
Просмотров 1708 месяцев назад
Drake 2 C Part 3 Found one of the Problems!
Motorola R2001C attempting to get it working right.
Просмотров 1719 месяцев назад
Motorola R2001C attempting to get it working right.
Not all voltmeters are created equal Voltmeter input impedance
Просмотров 11311 месяцев назад
Not all voltmeters are created equal Voltmeter input impedance
Heathkit SB 220 intro. What it is in for & things to think about when working with HV amplifier.
Просмотров 2 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Heathkit SB 220 intro. What it is in for & things to think about when working with HV amplifier.
SB220 Part 6 Ready to start putting it back together.
Просмотров 19211 месяцев назад
SB220 Part 6 Ready to start putting it back together.
Hi1 i'm Brian M6 bAQ. i'm trying to fix my ft101b. RX is fine on all bands, but only transmits on 7mhz and 3.5. As a matter of fact I've had some great copies on 7mhz. What could be problem, please? CAN ANYONE PLEASE SUGGEST SOMETHING, I'VE BEEN TOLD DIODES CAN BE PROBLEM, BUT IF SO, WHICH DIODES?
Reference: QST Issue: Jun 2001 Title: Simple RF-Power Measurement Author: Wes Hayward, W7ZOI If you are an ARRL member you can access this on line Has specific instructions re constructing a -40 db tap. As constructed it’s pretty flat out to about 650 MHz. And about constructing a power meter. It says: “measurements from nano watts to 100 watts”
thanks. do you have a link for the manual?
Thanks for watching. Here is a link for the service manual: elektrotanya.com/yaesu_ft-757gx.pdf/download.html
Hi! Awesome video, thank you for posting. Do you have any suggestions for the same model power functions fine, but the meter on the front is stuck somewhere between 8-10v and 10-12 amps. Needless to say on meter moves slightly when adjusting voltage, or drawing amperage. Meter returns to to all the way left resting position when off. I metered voltage, and it’s outputting just fine. Thank you in advance!
Hej, w moim 757GX ostatnio zaczęła rozłączać się sekcja filtrów LPF w pasmie 24-28mhz, na krótki czas pomogła wymiana diód D01-D06 na 1n4148 jednak po pół roku problem powrócił. Po godzinie działania trx pasmo 24-28mhz wyłącza filtry i brak wtedy nadawania i czułość jest bardzo niska. Prawdopodobnie jakaś dioda albo coś innego jeszcze "przecieka". Gdzie szukać problemu?
I have a ft101b, which isn't transmitting on 14, 21, 27 and 28, can I just pull that fet out?😊
My condolences to you and your family.
Thank you.
You can probably find a repairable HP8640B for a reasonable price. Very good sig gen. You present your information well, one of the better videos. I, too, am working on a FT-101 EE
Thanks. I looked at some HP8640B sig gens on line and they look very capable for what I do. I like the new enough to be accurate but old enough to be fun to use!
Good thing you didn't use a 4 - digit meter😁
No kidding. I was bound and determined to get it "right on". I would probably still be working on it with a 4 digit!
@@theradioroom726 😂. I was working on a compressor trying to determine how flat it compressed and it was terrible. I then realized the problem was in fact my 204C. When I changed the range my x100 range was half the other settings. It was all over the place really. Your video was very helpful!
I've started to look at your videos about the FT-101, I bought me a B-type a few days ago, that an amateur bought in 1974, he used and updated this rig for 25 years, in 1999 he bought a new rig, and placed the 101B into a glass display cabinet, and another 25 years later he sold it to me! He doxcumented Everything he did to improve this radio, so he gave me a Big origanizee folder filled with documents, original manual and original schematic of this radio! Plus 2 original unused final tubes and one smaller tube, so I'm going to be recapping too, for the very first time 😊, thanks for filming all this! Kind regards Geurt Broens PD4GB Nijmegen, Netherlands
I will do this mod, hope i dont brick the Yaesu though... tnx for this, 73, Levi in Sweden
Does the radio serial number on the rear panel agree with the number on the right side chassis?
Yes it does. I haven't had a chance to work on the E for a bit, so had to go look.
The top of those new capacitors look like bare metal. Seems like a shock hazard on the upper cap in series. Using the same clamp is outstanding. I'm working on mine time permitting.
What is your reasoning for not washing the boards with soapy water and then drying in an oven? I’ve seen others clean this way so I’m curious what the risks are. I really enjoy your videos and explanations in troubleshooting. 73 Tom
Good Evening, Tom. Thanks for watching. There are a couple of reasons why I did not use water and soap. Number 1 being, I did not have any distilled or other de-ionized water. The tap water in my location is classified as "hard water" and has lots of minerals in it. I do not want to take a chance with leaving anything behind from the water. Without alot of distilled water, I could not even rinse it well enough to trust not leaving something behind. The other reason is I did not want to get moisture into any of the capacitors that were cracked, since I still wanted to test before doing the recapping. Testing could have been done before any of the cleaning, but I prefer to go through and clean first since I hate looking and digging through dust and cobwebs. Cleaning this way also gives me a chance to look at most of all of the components for damage or things that do not look quite right. (Besides, drying would involve using my wife's oven for a few hours to dry it, and I am not sure how well that would go over. Maybe no problem...maybe setting up cot in radio room that night hihi!) 73.
Mine is a DM-330MVT - uses C3306 transistors instead of mosfets but don't they work the same here? Mine had low voltage (2V) and no fuse blowing or protection faults. Replaced the transistors with the mosfets you used and now it lights up the protection light. How should the NPN's check out? I will put them back and start troubleshooting again. I read that these are common problems so I jumped the gun but need some help!
Just to add the germanium diodes in the DBM can fail
mine only xmits on 7megs and 3.5mhz, could this be the trouble, please?
Hi buddy i have the same fault ,i looked at the modulator boars buffer all ok ,have you looked at the HF if modual ? and the frequency output into the driver tube ? at 29MHZ i have 25.8 MHZ looks like the mod oscilator is not mixing to give 29MHZ.
So interesting as always! 👍🙏
Now think about it . I don’t think the myth busters had the right tool for their experiment . And all of a sudden , you come up with the right tool . Your SWR meter . With that you check antenna matches . But did you know , you can use it for a field strength meter too ? See , when you put a magnetic mount antenna on your car , you can ( with a little help ) walk around your car , and find out what is best direction your signal is going to radiate best from . That’s why I say , your signal is radiating best if your antenna is at center of mass . ( say the center of your roof . ) try it . Walk under power lines , or around a radio station antenna . You will be very interested in the results .
I was just looking a myth buster episode , about testing various myths in radiation . This one episode delpt with UV and cooking on a tanning bed . Um , and another dealing with radio waves . Then an intriguing question came up . The busters came across a Johnny Carson show with Lucial ball as a guest . And as the interview was going on , she told a story about , driving around Los Angeles , and hearing in her jaw radio signals . She said it was coming from her teeth ! She revield in her interview that she had been going past a radio station at the time ! Um , and later she passed a vacant lot , and hear chattering , like moris code ! Well , the FBI must have been told about it and the newspaper said that a Japanese transmitter was found in that location . But Lucy was left out of the story the newspaper told . ( very HUSH HUSH ) . 🤫
👌👌👍👍
I had just bought my EE, and the first time I plugged it in and touched the coax from my sig gen I got shocked. Whereas it is a two conductor cord with non polarized plug I just inverted the plug into the AC socket and that fixed it for the time being. I ordered a grouding cable online. I did check for continuity from either side of the line plug to chassis and found it open, so maybe some capacitor leakage? I got the electrolytic replacement kit yesterday so today I have a lot of soldering to do.
I agree with you on the leaky capacitor. I talk about the line bypass filter capacitors in the next video. This 101 also does not have a shock when you turn the plug around, so that tells me that C75 is probably leaky. I plan to replace both C74 and C75. Resistance checking from plug to chassis shows open as well on this one, so the caps still block DC current at low voltage, or at least enough to not show voltage on a DMM. I believe at higher voltages at AC they are getting enough current leakage to give a tingle and register voltage on a high impedance meter. Good luck and have fun with the recap. I am still working on the other 101 which is an E model, and just finished recapping most of it. Still have to do high voltage caps. Thanks and 73
I had a hot chassis on mine. Bought a 3 conductor power cord.
Thanks for the comment. I was just making the next video exploring what I think is causing the hot chassis, just have to get in there and look at some things. This radio has had some work done on it over the years it appears, so I need to see what they did to the power connector. I am planning on correcting the hot chassis and at the very least, I think I will put a polarized plug on to minimize future hot chassis problems. 73
Good job with the FT 757GX !!! Looking forward to hearing soon more from this fantastic radio. 73's
I just got one of these it is very good condition with documents including original bill of sale and documents on all the mods and new parts installed in 1996 and new tubes in 2000. I just got it home yesterday and have not turned it on yet still researching it is my first amplifier. It has a small red toggle switch on the front I think this might be a standby switch and a big toggle switch added to the back top left not sure what that is for yet. Might have a few questions for you at some point not in a hurry to put it on the air yet need a tuner. Looks like it has had all the mods and new parts installed based on the sales receipts I have that came with it.
Another good video- and nice tools too… I’m with you on a couple things, like trying to find component pad positions underneath the board for the removal, it’s a pain. Finally, out of frustration I tried the small LED flashlight trick- intense light shining from foil side up toward topside helped me- I could see the traces on the bottom foil side from the topside to help pinpoint- these Yaesu boards seem to pass light pretty much. Also, chuckled about losing track of the negative polarity pad for the new electrolytic install- I’ve done that so many times… now I use my ohm meter from the ground plane side to poke both empty holes on the board to find the right one- process works for electrolytics anyway, especially on these isolated modular boards. Looking forward to hearing SSB/CW coming from the speaker- GL & 73, W8SOO
Thanks for the tip/trick. I used it, especially on spotting solder pads on the AF board and mention your trick in the next video. 73
Good stuff- thanks for documenting your progress! The C-125 mica cap (100pf) connected to the plate choke and neutralizing capacitor is right next to the final tube you pulled out- it’s the small black domino shaped cap by your finger… looks like you have a spare one connected to the replacement plate choke in the box. I did get a 10pf 1KV mica cap replacement too- off eBay I think, for the American tubes. Also wonder if one of the 3-position switches on the front panel, there are 2 of them (mox/vox switch or the calibrator switch), would work for the meter switch replacement- they appear to be the same? Otherwise 100%, I’ve gone down the same path as you have- nice for me to see some validation. Keep up the good work! W8SOO
Thanks for the comment. I am enjoying working on the 101E and learning the in and outs of it from getting my hands in it and input from the viewers. I think the other 3 way switches are physically much bigger. Still haven't reached the point of pulling the old one out to see what I can do, but I need to at least get IC position working. I can work around ALC and Power out if necessary by other methods such as external meter for power and could use a o-scope to check for ALC flat topping if I had to. Thanks and 73
Thank you for this video. You are completely authentic in showing a leftover part & backtracking. I thought this only happens to me.😊
Just glad this one was a fairly simple backtrack. It's even worse when you found a part that needs 23 steps to take apart to get it in 🤔😬
Really enjoying your project- looking forward to your next video… doing one just like yours right now but a bit ahead. Started a little differently, first downloaded free the FT-101 Service Manual to focus on the electrical first, then mechanical/cosmetics last. Used the manual page 5-1 to check for all correct boards, then went to page 5-39 to check for all correct voltages in the transformer and the voltages leaving the rectifier board PB-1076B, mounted right by the transformer- lots of diodes. Next, went to check voltages on board PB-1314A, located topsideside center-rear by big filter caps- called the regulator/cal board, tagged Volt-Zero Set-Bias on top. That board could also be board PB-1547, the FT-101E used either, use manual pages 5-22,23 or pages 5-32,33 for info- lots of can-type caps, diodes & regulator, as well as the calibrator output. This reg/cal board is the heart of the radio- provides voltages to rx circuits & negative bias control voltages to tx PA tubes & driver tube and, calibrator for alignment. Finally, checked the PA tubes- 6JS6C’s are expensive, driver’s cheap. Tools needed so far- service manual, variac, good quality multi-meter, tube tester. Parts needed mainly for these boards so far- diodes 1N4007s, 1N4148s, FR207s, + elect. Caps, all cheap… attention to these circuits got the rx functioning normally- the tx may be tougher, not sure but looks like your plate choke, at least, is toast possibly caused by the finals going into uncontrolled oscillation & failing, which may have been caused by loss of bias voltage control on the reg/cal board- but not sure, hope not. This one is my 4th FT-101 project- keep up the good work, thanks again for the videos. W8SOO
When you zero beat the radio move the metal 10-90 and holding the VFO knob and turning it to zero also try putting the RF gain at 3 o’clock with a signal and see if you a reading on the meter
Thank you for your comment. I am not as concerned about the ring being off at the moment, as, as you indicated, that is a simple adjustment to make. While I was commenting that it is a little off frequency, I was more concerned with the dial indication being off. 14.200 should line up with 200 etc. As I am currently looking at getting the mylar capacitors needed for the AF board and all of the electrolytics for the radio, I am not too concerned about it being off right now. After the caps are changed and other work is completed, things could be completely different. I plan on having to do some realignment once that is complete. After I made this video, I did continue to play with the radio and actually hooked up an antenna. It was receiving stations and had S-meter deflection that was probably not correct, but it did work. (likely just needs some adjustment that will come with the realignment) I also compared the signals received against another radio for frequency. The dial is showing about 7 kHz higher than actual. This has been and appears to continue being a fun and enjoyable project. I hope as I go through it everyone watching enjoys the journey, and maybe the occasional laugh of hearing me talking to myself sometimes. I always welcome input, especially technical since there are many people that each have their own knowledge to bring to the table. Thank you again for the input and for watching!
Early in my career, early, 1980s, I worked on full power UHF TV transmitters. Try 19kv at 13 amps! The rule was not to worry about the high voltage. Just don't let yourself to become grounded. After numerous HV accident investigations it was learned that it's not the HV contact that gets you. It's the ground! Where is your other hand? Where are your feet? What type of shoes are you wearing? What is the floor surface?
19,000 volts! that could make for a very bad day. Thank you for also bringing up the concerns on the ground. Awareness of where you are and what you are doing is very important. I try to make sure I think out every move when working on HV. (Of course 19kv would involve a lot more consideration. Just getting close, not even touching the HV while grounded would be a bad day.) Thank you for adding these things to remember. The questions you ask are ones everybody should consider before working on HV. Let me go over this particular situation in regards to your questions to consider. My other hand is not in my pocket where it normally is when working on live or unverified HV, as I was holding the phone for recording. I am wearing safety toe and electrical hazard work boots (required by my regular everyday job). In this case, the floor is carpet over concrete slab. Thank you for sharing, input from those with much experience helps everyone in gaining knowledge.
Nice video. Where can I find that schematic you had up on your screen. I just acquired a SB-220.
I cannot remember exactly where I found it. Here is a link to a good one that I just found. www.manualslib.com/manual/465938/Heath-Heathkit-Sb-220.html?page=2#manual Also you may want a manual if you do not already have one. Here is a link www.manualslib.com/manual/903246/Heathkit-Sb-220.html Thanks for watching!
Thank you. A software unlock code would be so much easier than removing a resistor.😐
I have learned so much , thanks !
Well done as always Gordon! 👍👍
Thank you Alan
Learning as I follow along. Great video, well done
great video. Can you say what near equivalent mosfet you used please.
Thank you for watching. The replacement MOSFET used is a 47N65E.
Excellent - I have the same issue - 2 dead Mosfets. Thank you
47N65E plus the rectifier worked fine for me in a DM330MW 2 - so thanks again for your video.
Enjoyed the video. Great job. I have some Drake equipment including a TR4cw/rit. l too have a 2C with a very hot receiver but is completely deaf on 15 and 10 meters. Replaced the electrolytics. Wondering if an alignment would be the issue?
Thank you for watching and Happy New Year! I am very pleased with finally getting to use this receiver after buying not working and seeing it sit on the shelf for several years. An alignment could be needed on your 2-C, but I would not start there as it is working well on 80, 40, and 20m. As you said that it is deaf on 15 and 10m, I would look at what is common to those 2 bands. The first thought is the 25MHz LO crystal. (The 3 crystals on the "left" side of the receiver farthest from the power transformer, should be marked 11, 18, and 25 MHz) The 25MHz crystal provides the LO freq for 15 and 10. If you have no LO to the first mixer, you will have no reception on those 2 bands. Is it installed in it's socket? If it is, it may just have dirty pins or socket. Pull it out and clean it with De-Oxit or similar cleaner and a Q-tip. Spray some cleaner in the socket holes and work the crystal gently in and out of the socket a few times to remove any oxidation. Let dry and try the 15 and 10m. Next, if that did not work, I would check the band switch wafers for any damage to the 15 and 10m contacts. These can be cleaned as well with De-Oxit or similar cleaner that leaves a contact lubricant. Hope this helps and leads you to a solution to the problem. Once again, Happy New Year to you and yours.
I have to without a doubt ditto Marty’s comments! 😊🙏
Always amazed by your expertise! Well done.
Congratulations on getting it working well. The 2C is a nice receiver. What is the make and model of your signal generator. I may buy one. Thanks.
Tom, thank you for watching and enjoying. The signal generator is a TinySA. It can be found from several sources including on Amazon. Please be aware that there are knockoffs out there. If you are interested, I would suggest going to tinysa.org/ "where to buy" and checking approved sources to get a genuine one. You can also take a look at both models, the basic and ultra. I have the Basic which runs about $75 to $85 on amazon from SeeSii. The Ultra is about 2x the price. 73
Cleaning the camera lens works miracles. Still, thank you.
I picked up one of these at a hamfest about 5 years ago. It was a little rough but worked perfectly. I still have it. If you push crystals into the socket on the side, you can tune a lot more frequencies with it too. It's a ham-band receiver but will pull in all kinds of broadcast signals as well.
That was awesome well she's back playing
Thank you.
Gordon always amazed at your expertise! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. 😊🙏
Nice video as always Gordon! 👍👍
thanks a lot for your help
No meu país não tem quem faz manutenção nesse tipo de equipamento uma pena são muito bons eu tenho um está sem transmissão
Vc é de onde?
@@PBenetton Brasil pequena cidade patrocínio Paulista SP cidade do interior Um lugar onde você não tem muita opção Para fazer uma manutenção em equipamentos hf é um ótimo rádio mais vai ficar guardado somente como relíquia ninguém aqui sabe fazer este trabalho amigo uma pena viu
@@clodoaldobernardinelli5438 opa, sei como é. Vc teria interesse em vender esse rádio no estado em que ele está?
I am working on an Ameritron AL-82 and one of the things that vexes me is that it also has a bank of 8 450v HV caps, but according to the manual, the amp runs at 3800V resting, 3300 keydown. I don't get it. The cap banks rating of 8 x 450 = 3600v and that would be max with no safety margin right? I really don't get this.
Apologies for the delayed reply. I wanted to take the time and take a look at a schematic for the AL-82. Took a bit to find the time to sit down with it. Yes Ameritron is running the filter bank on the edge. This is common in many capacitor banks I have noticed for many types of power supply filters. Perhaps comes down to not wanting to spend more for higher voltage caps in production costs when 450v "will do". As far as the no load voltage listed in the specifications of the manual of 3800v, this is for absolutely no load on the power supply. When in circuit there is some load. Further, when in operation, the nominal voltage is 3600v not to exceed 3700v. The manual contains a warning to not alter the power supply to exceed 3700v. I suspect that is because they are already pushing things a bit with the filter caps and that also gives a bit of overhead on the 3-500 tubes with 4000v max plate voltage. That is still pushing it in my opinion. I prefer some overhead instead of running on the edge and trusting the resistors to prevent a cascade failure of the caps. There are available replacement capacitor banks for the AL-82 that use 500v caps that would provide 300-400v overhead..... and a little more peace of mind. Thanks for watching!
Have two of these ladies, that I still use, thanks for your upload.👍🏻🕊