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Hi1 i'm Brian M6 bAQ. i'm trying to fix my ft101b. RX is fine on all bands, but only transmits on 7mhz and 3.5. As a matter of fact I've had some great copies on 7mhz. What could be problem, please? CAN ANYONE PLEASE SUGGEST SOMETHING, I'VE BEEN TOLD DIODES CAN BE PROBLEM, BUT IF SO, WHICH DIODES?

Reference: QST Issue: Jun 2001 Title: Simple RF-Power Measurement Author: Wes Hayward, W7ZOI If you are an ARRL member you can access this on line Has specific instructions re constructing a -40 db tap. As constructed it’s pretty flat out to about 650 MHz. And about constructing a power meter. It says: “measurements from nano watts to 100 watts”

thanks. do you have a link for the manual?

Hi! Awesome video, thank you for posting. Do you have any suggestions for the same model power functions fine, but the meter on the front is stuck somewhere between 8-10v and 10-12 amps. Needless to say on meter moves slightly when adjusting voltage, or drawing amperage. Meter returns to to all the way left resting position when off. I metered voltage, and it’s outputting just fine. Thank you in advance!

Hej, w moim 757GX ostatnio zaczęła rozłączać się sekcja filtrów LPF w pasmie 24-28mhz, na krótki czas pomogła wymiana diód D01-D06 na 1n4148 jednak po pół roku problem powrócił. Po godzinie działania trx pasmo 24-28mhz wyłącza filtry i brak wtedy nadawania i czułość jest bardzo niska. Prawdopodobnie jakaś dioda albo coś innego jeszcze "przecieka". Gdzie szukać problemu?

I have a ft101b, which isn't transmitting on 14, 21, 27 and 28, can I just pull that fet out?😊

My condolences to you and your family.

You can probably find a repairable HP8640B for a reasonable price. Very good sig gen. You present your information well, one of the better videos. I, too, am working on a FT-101 EE

Good thing you didn't use a 4 - digit meter😁

I've started to look at your videos about the FT-101, I bought me a B-type a few days ago, that an amateur bought in 1974, he used and updated this rig for 25 years, in 1999 he bought a new rig, and placed the 101B into a glass display cabinet, and another 25 years later he sold it to me! He doxcumented Everything he did to improve this radio, so he gave me a Big origanizee folder filled with documents, original manual and original schematic of this radio! Plus 2 original unused final tubes and one smaller tube, so I'm going to be recapping too, for the very first time 😊, thanks for filming all this! Kind regards Geurt Broens PD4GB Nijmegen, Netherlands

I will do this mod, hope i dont brick the Yaesu though... tnx for this, 73, Levi in Sweden

Does the radio serial number on the rear panel agree with the number on the right side chassis?

The top of those new capacitors look like bare metal. Seems like a shock hazard on the upper cap in series. Using the same clamp is outstanding. I'm working on mine time permitting.

What is your reasoning for not washing the boards with soapy water and then drying in an oven? I’ve seen others clean this way so I’m curious what the risks are. I really enjoy your videos and explanations in troubleshooting. 73 Tom

Mine is a DM-330MVT - uses C3306 transistors instead of mosfets but don't they work the same here? Mine had low voltage (2V) and no fuse blowing or protection faults. Replaced the transistors with the mosfets you used and now it lights up the protection light. How should the NPN's check out? I will put them back and start troubleshooting again. I read that these are common problems so I jumped the gun but need some help!

Just to add the germanium diodes in the DBM can fail

Hi buddy i have the same fault ,i looked at the modulator boars buffer all ok ,have you looked at the HF if modual ? and the frequency output into the driver tube ? at 29MHZ i have 25.8 MHZ looks like the mod oscilator is not mixing to give 29MHZ.

So interesting as always! 👍🙏

Now think about it . I don’t think the myth busters had the right tool for their experiment . And all of a sudden , you come up with the right tool . Your SWR meter . With that you check antenna matches . But did you know , you can use it for a field strength meter too ? See , when you put a magnetic mount antenna on your car , you can ( with a little help ) walk around your car , and find out what is best direction your signal is going to radiate best from . That’s why I say , your signal is radiating best if your antenna is at center of mass . ( say the center of your roof . ) try it . Walk under power lines , or around a radio station antenna . You will be very interested in the results .

I was just looking a myth buster episode , about testing various myths in radiation . This one episode delpt with UV and cooking on a tanning bed . Um , and another dealing with radio waves . Then an intriguing question came up . The busters came across a Johnny Carson show with Lucial ball as a guest . And as the interview was going on , she told a story about , driving around Los Angeles , and hearing in her jaw radio signals . She said it was coming from her teeth ! She revield in her interview that she had been going past a radio station at the time ! Um , and later she passed a vacant lot , and hear chattering , like moris code ! Well , the FBI must have been told about it and the newspaper said that a Japanese transmitter was found in that location . But Lucy was left out of the story the newspaper told . ( very HUSH HUSH ) . 🤫

👌👌👍👍

I had just bought my EE, and the first time I plugged it in and touched the coax from my sig gen I got shocked. Whereas it is a two conductor cord with non polarized plug I just inverted the plug into the AC socket and that fixed it for the time being. I ordered a grouding cable online. I did check for continuity from either side of the line plug to chassis and found it open, so maybe some capacitor leakage? I got the electrolytic replacement kit yesterday so today I have a lot of soldering to do.

I had a hot chassis on mine. Bought a 3 conductor power cord.

Good job with the FT 757GX !!! Looking forward to hearing soon more from this fantastic radio. 73's

I just got one of these it is very good condition with documents including original bill of sale and documents on all the mods and new parts installed in 1996 and new tubes in 2000. I just got it home yesterday and have not turned it on yet still researching it is my first amplifier. It has a small red toggle switch on the front I think this might be a standby switch and a big toggle switch added to the back top left not sure what that is for yet. Might have a few questions for you at some point not in a hurry to put it on the air yet need a tuner. Looks like it has had all the mods and new parts installed based on the sales receipts I have that came with it.

Another good video- and nice tools too… I’m with you on a couple things, like trying to find component pad positions underneath the board for the removal, it’s a pain. Finally, out of frustration I tried the small LED flashlight trick- intense light shining from foil side up toward topside helped me- I could see the traces on the bottom foil side from the topside to help pinpoint- these Yaesu boards seem to pass light pretty much. Also, chuckled about losing track of the negative polarity pad for the new electrolytic install- I’ve done that so many times… now I use my ohm meter from the ground plane side to poke both empty holes on the board to find the right one- process works for electrolytics anyway, especially on these isolated modular boards. Looking forward to hearing SSB/CW coming from the speaker- GL & 73, W8SOO

Good stuff- thanks for documenting your progress! The C-125 mica cap (100pf) connected to the plate choke and neutralizing capacitor is right next to the final tube you pulled out- it’s the small black domino shaped cap by your finger… looks like you have a spare one connected to the replacement plate choke in the box. I did get a 10pf 1KV mica cap replacement too- off eBay I think, for the American tubes. Also wonder if one of the 3-position switches on the front panel, there are 2 of them (mox/vox switch or the calibrator switch), would work for the meter switch replacement- they appear to be the same? Otherwise 100%, I’ve gone down the same path as you have- nice for me to see some validation. Keep up the good work! W8SOO

Thank you for this video. You are completely authentic in showing a leftover part & backtracking. I thought this only happens to me.😊

Really enjoying your project- looking forward to your next video… doing one just like yours right now but a bit ahead. Started a little differently, first downloaded free the FT-101 Service Manual to focus on the electrical first, then mechanical/cosmetics last. Used the manual page 5-1 to check for all correct boards, then went to page 5-39 to check for all correct voltages in the transformer and the voltages leaving the rectifier board PB-1076B, mounted right by the transformer- lots of diodes. Next, went to check voltages on board PB-1314A, located topsideside center-rear by big filter caps- called the regulator/cal board, tagged Volt-Zero Set-Bias on top. That board could also be board PB-1547, the FT-101E used either, use manual pages 5-22,23 or pages 5-32,33 for info- lots of can-type caps, diodes & regulator, as well as the calibrator output. This reg/cal board is the heart of the radio- provides voltages to rx circuits & negative bias control voltages to tx PA tubes & driver tube and, calibrator for alignment. Finally, checked the PA tubes- 6JS6C’s are expensive, driver’s cheap. Tools needed so far- service manual, variac, good quality multi-meter, tube tester. Parts needed mainly for these boards so far- diodes 1N4007s, 1N4148s, FR207s, + elect. Caps, all cheap… attention to these circuits got the rx functioning normally- the tx may be tougher, not sure but looks like your plate choke, at least, is toast possibly caused by the finals going into uncontrolled oscillation & failing, which may have been caused by loss of bias voltage control on the reg/cal board- but not sure, hope not. This one is my 4th FT-101 project- keep up the good work, thanks again for the videos. W8SOO

When you zero beat the radio move the metal 10-90 and holding the VFO knob and turning it to zero also try putting the RF gain at 3 o’clock with a signal and see if you a reading on the meter

Early in my career, early, 1980s, I worked on full power UHF TV transmitters. Try 19kv at 13 amps! The rule was not to worry about the high voltage. Just don't let yourself to become grounded. After numerous HV accident investigations it was learned that it's not the HV contact that gets you. It's the ground! Where is your other hand? Where are your feet? What type of shoes are you wearing? What is the floor surface?

Nice video. Where can I find that schematic you had up on your screen. I just acquired a SB-220.

Thank you. A software unlock code would be so much easier than removing a resistor.😐

I have learned so much , thanks !

Well done as always Gordon! 👍👍

Learning as I follow along. Great video, well done

great video. Can you say what near equivalent mosfet you used please.

Enjoyed the video. Great job. I have some Drake equipment including a TR4cw/rit. l too have a 2C with a very hot receiver but is completely deaf on 15 and 10 meters. Replaced the electrolytics. Wondering if an alignment would be the issue?

I have to without a doubt ditto Marty’s comments! 😊🙏

Always amazed by your expertise! Well done.

Congratulations on getting it working well. The 2C is a nice receiver. What is the make and model of your signal generator. I may buy one. Thanks.

Cleaning the camera lens works miracles. Still, thank you.

I picked up one of these at a hamfest about 5 years ago. It was a little rough but worked perfectly. I still have it. If you push crystals into the socket on the side, you can tune a lot more frequencies with it too. It's a ham-band receiver but will pull in all kinds of broadcast signals as well.

That was awesome well she's back playing

Gordon always amazed at your expertise! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. 😊🙏

Nice video as always Gordon! 👍👍

thanks a lot for your help

No meu país não tem quem faz manutenção nesse tipo de equipamento uma pena são muito bons eu tenho um está sem transmissão

I am working on an Ameritron AL-82 and one of the things that vexes me is that it also has a bank of 8 450v HV caps, but according to the manual, the amp runs at 3800V resting, 3300 keydown. I don't get it. The cap banks rating of 8 x 450 = 3600v and that would be max with no safety margin right? I really don't get this.

Have two of these ladies, that I still use, thanks for your upload.👍🏻🕊