The top of those new capacitors look like bare metal. Seems like a shock hazard on the upper cap in series. Using the same clamp is outstanding. I'm working on mine time permitting.
Good stuff- thanks for documenting your progress! The C-125 mica cap (100pf) connected to the plate choke and neutralizing capacitor is right next to the final tube you pulled out- it’s the small black domino shaped cap by your finger… looks like you have a spare one connected to the replacement plate choke in the box. I did get a 10pf 1KV mica cap replacement too- off eBay I think, for the American tubes. Also wonder if one of the 3-position switches on the front panel, there are 2 of them (mox/vox switch or the calibrator switch), would work for the meter switch replacement- they appear to be the same? Otherwise 100%, I’ve gone down the same path as you have- nice for me to see some validation. Keep up the good work! W8SOO
Thanks for the comment. I am enjoying working on the 101E and learning the in and outs of it from getting my hands in it and input from the viewers. I think the other 3 way switches are physically much bigger. Still haven't reached the point of pulling the old one out to see what I can do, but I need to at least get IC position working. I can work around ALC and Power out if necessary by other methods such as external meter for power and could use a o-scope to check for ALC flat topping if I had to. Thanks and 73
The top of those new capacitors look like bare metal. Seems like a shock hazard on the upper cap in series. Using the same clamp is outstanding. I'm working on mine time permitting.
Good stuff- thanks for documenting your progress! The C-125 mica cap (100pf) connected to the plate choke and neutralizing capacitor is right next to the final tube you pulled out- it’s the small black domino shaped cap by your finger… looks like you have a spare one connected to the replacement plate choke in the box. I did get a 10pf 1KV mica cap replacement too- off eBay I think, for the American tubes. Also wonder if one of the 3-position switches on the front panel, there are 2 of them (mox/vox switch or the calibrator switch), would work for the meter switch replacement- they appear to be the same? Otherwise 100%, I’ve gone down the same path as you have- nice for me to see some validation. Keep up the good work! W8SOO
Thanks for the comment. I am enjoying working on the 101E and learning the in and outs of it from getting my hands in it and input from the viewers. I think the other 3 way switches are physically much bigger. Still haven't reached the point of pulling the old one out to see what I can do, but I need to at least get IC position working. I can work around ALC and Power out if necessary by other methods such as external meter for power and could use a o-scope to check for ALC flat topping if I had to. Thanks and 73
Does the radio serial number on the rear panel agree with the number on the right side chassis?
Yes it does. I haven't had a chance to work on the E for a bit, so had to go look.