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For this particular vehicle and many others of this generation, you would have to install your own hood pin and hook up to that. Most car starters come with a hood pin in the box

Hey I’m happy to help. I didn’t realize people would be looking for such detailed information. But it makes sense.

@@srtbull_yt6854 Your video editing is excellent, too. It's a lot of work. Thank you for that, too. I didn't feel like there was a single nonessential moment in it.

@digdugboy that’s really great feedback. Thank you

If using a DB3 the data wire is purple/yellow

Sir it around the head unit, no. That will be black. But you can get the silver dash panel from Mopar.

If the car starter doesn’t have 2 acc outputs, yes

@@srtbull_yt6854did you do that with this application I have a 5906v I’m trying to install

I really only worry about 2nd acc or the duramax. Not gas

⁠@@srtbull_yt6854the transmission issue is that with the tach wire or the 2nd acc? I’ve done this on a 2000 Chevy before but can’t remember

@yoitsdeezygaming8050 neither. It’s second ignition that powers the transmission

There’s a laundry list of things that it could be. How is your battery? What kind of car starter? Does the car starter still work or has it failed? What is charging voltage when running? When idling? Anything else in vehicle that is aftermarket? There’s a ton of diagnosis you could be doing to find out. I would do a voltage draw test just at the car starter then start working my way out from there until I find the problem.

In this specific case, the wire from the DB3 is light green

Lol I don’t blame you. It’s kinda difficult to explain exactly what to do here. Do you have the factory head unit or aftermarket? There are some important variables that I would need to know in order to help.

A. Are you sure there’s no immobilizer? 2. You can use a module to do convienience features such as keyless entry, but you don’t have to. It would be easier if you do though.

@@srtbull_yt6854 I had it removed from the PCU some years ago so that I could use regular keys. Is iDataLink a good interface module choice, in your opinion? Thank you for the quick reply!!

If it’s installed correctly, yes there will be fuses. If it’s a DS platform, the fuses may be built into the module (under a cover) I’d be more concerned about why the fuses blew. This isn’t a common occurrence

@@srtbull_yt6854 it doesn’t have any power to the antenna or anything but the truck has power radio everything works but the antenna to receive a signal the brain doesn’t even have a light on near the button

@seansotello8756 what kind of remote starter is it?

@@srtbull_yt6854 7756V

The ends result could be exactly the same. Except for the rear speakers. In the 2007, they are 5 1/4” whereas this gen, they’re 6x9. Oem amp is in a different location. But like I said, the final result could be the same.

Yes this should be a very similar install

Well, park lights can flash on lock and unlock if that functionality was installed at the time. What types of shorts are you having in the dash? I wonder why they won’t touch it? Do they just want to charge you to remove it and install a new one?

@@srtbull_yt6854 I should add the previous owner attempted. “I say that lightly” to make random electrical repairs and the cluster lights were poorly upgraded to LEDS. Soldering mess is about all I can say on it. I might end up replacing the whole cluster.

I use my fancy Klein tools 1003/1004 and a razor blade

It will shut down the car starter when the brake is pressed.

Do you mean factory immobilizer?

Failsafe Starter Kill , I have to bypass my relay on my starter, my battery had died, got a new battery for my 2004 gmc. But once i got the new battery i could not turn the truck on anymore with the key or remote start( weird ) but i would reading that alarm i have is a 5105v with the D83. So i m thinking that the Failsafe Starter Kill is still active that i wont let me start the truck. But since i been bypassing right now. But i wanted to know to restart the Failsafe Starter Kill to see if that actually my problem or not

@brendonramos209 determining the actual issue is going to be job one. If the starter kill relay has failed (Viper), then either replace that relay or temporarily remove it and bypass the interruption. Relays can fail in the open position, which would cause this result.

@@srtbull_yt6854 so the relay on alarm would be the best place to start of at then before i start digging for all the wiring in the engine bay ?? Is there way to restart the Failsafe Starter Kill tho , turn the key in on position and hit unlocked and lock on the door panels ?

@brendonramos209 I would start at the relay, under the dash, part of the alarm system

Great. I hope this solution works for you too

This one didn’t but I’ve done them before that had it.

Honestly, with Viper its almost color 4 color. Red - 12volt Red/white - 12 volt Pink - ignition 1 White - ignition 2 Orange - hvac Brown - radio (needed with duramax) Yellow - start

Oh you mean the Viper wires. You’ll use all of them except for the pink/black. I’d you’re doing starter kill, green is key side, purple is vehicle side. What else can I help with?

Do you mean removing pins from the harness? I just use an o-ring tool. But they do make pin tools specifically for that job.

It has to go back to an authorized dealer. Run time as well as many other features can only be changed via the weblink updater

@@srtbull_yt6854 no dealers because I got this vehicle used with the starter on it and also I heard about that weblink thing is it possible to do it myself?

@remrem69 if you can get your hands on a weblink, the account is free so you’d be good to go. It would be a shame though, spending money on something just for one quick change. What’s the current run time? They max out at 35 minutes just for your information. My default is 30 minutes but I’m way the eff up north.

@@srtbull_yt6854 my runtime is 10mins and im in canada alberta and winter here are worse that's why I want it to run 30mins

and yes I just got weblink and account

It’ll make your life so much easier if you use one. It can be done with relays and resistors, but seriously not worth it when the interface module does all the heavy lifting.

Thank you for your response!

Do me a solid and shoot me an email at srtbull@gmail.com. I’ll do my best to get you whatever info you need

I’m pretty sure you have to be a dealer to get access.

Yep, I just tried getting the manual without credentials and you can’t get to it from their website.

It is also a 5x05

Won’t remote start or won’t start with the key?

Factory amp decided to opt out

It will work yes but it won’t do door locks or security. You’ll have to provide (+) doors locks for the 99 and (-) oem alarm shutdown, if it has factory security.

Not in this case no, the data module takes care of door locks and factory security.

@@srtbull_yt6854 so would I need them in my 99 gmc Sierra?

Factory amplifier or aftermarket amplifier?

@@srtbull_yt6854 factory amp.

That’s kinda complicated as there are so many different options for this car. What system do you have? Dual OEM amps? Mid bass drivers in the doors?

This specific car didn’t have any oem amps

@@srtbull_yt6854 iv got the dual oem amps in the driver kick panel.

Interesting. I’ll remember that for the next time I see this scenario.

It will yea but the module won’t control door locks, door status or tach signal. You’ll have to wire those directly.

What’s the vehicle and what kind of remote starter? Has this problem just shown up? Or has it always been like that?

@@srtbull_yt6854 I have an 03 dodge Dakota 4.7, I have a viper 5X04 and it’s been like that ever since it was installed

I’m curious, does the radio turn on during remote start? If yes, the wrong accessory wire is being powered by the remote starter.

Negative. The J1850 would be same wire no matter where you find it. So if this is true, you could just manually wire the features that you’re retaining by using that data wire. A simple passloc interface and wire tach direct to the source. Actually pretty easy. But you could just disconnect the data wire at obd2, do the smog test then reconnect the data wire after you pass the test. (Immo, that’s not the issue, but that’s where I would start)

Jebus. I haven’t seen a 508d in many many moons. When we did install those, you had to be so super specific with your fields, it mostly annoyed the client if not set up correctly.

Chances are good the security interface has dropped programming. Most likely a simple relearn will fix the issue.

That was custom built for that truck

That’s a data module that converts the data signals from the vehicle into usable signals by the aftermarket radio.