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This video is from a while back before I discovered designing on a background the same size as my material , and the “append” feature in LaserGRBL to be able to add additional steps in one go. I wanted to do the image in dithering , and the text in line to line to get clean crisp lines. But in this case, I just flipped the the board over to make sure I lined up the text proportionally with the board and image 😊 not sure if I started it from the home position or jogged it and set origin 🤔. But ya , 2 steps for 2 different features in Lasergrbl 😊

Thanks Curtis. I've actually switched to airbrushing the acrylic coat on as I get a nicer even coat for a more even engraving. I found the pens and sharpies leave streaks no matter how many times you go over them. Craft Paint is definitely the cheaper less stinky option..lol But looking into Cermark and some other things to actually get black engravings on glass.. I'll keep you posted! :)

Thank you 😊

I was going for an old Farmall look :D

Thank you! And yes the snow effect looked better when the video was slowed down. 😊. I appreciate the feedback 🤗

Thank you! I think you’ll like the effect too 😊

Thank you ! 😊 I prefer not to run at 100% for a nicer finish on the cut edges . but I totally get what you’re saying 😊I try to aim for no soot to wipe off on my fingers so I have zero sanding as some inside edges are hard to get to. My ladybug vacuum is still going strong 😁

You’re welcome ! Glad I could help 😊

If you mean artist fixative, it might. I find it very costly compared to a can of 2x Tremclad clear. That would work to. :) I just try and avoid the stinky stuff .lol

I have in videos following this one . I tried keeping my videos concise and short . But Mach 5 speed wasn’t cutting it 😂😂

@@ShannonKritzer-p7n If you are still having issues , definitely let me know . 1. are you having a specific error code come up? 2. Software you are using 3. Machine you are using and 4. What is it you were trying to do when you had the error and what your machine did . 😊

I suggest for starters when you go into the "documents" portion of your computer, to click on "create new folder" give that folder a name e.g. " laser files" click on it to open and you can now make subfolders by clicking " create new folder and naming that e.g. "ornaments". I put all original files here. I actually don't save any files that I do from Lasergrbl. My materials and size can vary, so why take up the room on your computer? I do keep a LASER BIBLE though. I have a notebook right by my computer to jot down the file name , type of material used, and all my settings. This way I can go through it easily to repeat a job or find what setting I preferred for that type of material. My memory is not what it use to be.. so having a notebook to refer too really helps :)

In the menu on your laser machine which tells you the speed and what size plywood you want to cut, my machine is not on the list, so what would I input there please

@@yvonneomalley3332 This must be something on the newer updates as I’ve never had to input any of my machines. I’m running version 6.2.1 but you are not the first to ask this. Is there a name for a generic Gerbl controller on the list? Now with your machine on and connected , go to GRBL configuration . Click on “refresh” and write. This will save settings from your control board to LaserGRBL . Then does it still ask for a machine name in the pop up tab?

@@yvonneomalley3332 ​​This is just the materials reference database to see what settings are recommended. It actually does not change any settings you input. 😊

Thank you and yes I did. Hand drew it, then took a screen shot to then draw it out cleanly into line art on my I-pad in adobe fresco. When that was done, took a screen shot and brought it in to my sign master software and vectorized it. It may sound like quite a few steps, but drawing it digitally is way faster and cleaner than my old pen and ink method, then scanning it , vectorizing and then spending hours of cleanup where the pen bled or un even outlines. This artwork is available on my shopify SHOP app. Just search up Wan-Di Designs :)

Thanks Michael ! I like to show the whole process..with the good, the bad, and the ugly! lol ..It took me a bit to get sound and enhancing voice. It's a learning process for sure. If you go to Lasergrbl.com download their custom buttons and install by right clicking your mouse at the bottom of lasergrbl. By right clicking you can also edit these buttons and even create your own. The possibilities are endless ;) Note: Circle frame only works accurately if all your graphics are within an actual circle frame. :)

Thank you!! This is one of the earliest videos on cutting I have done over the last couple of years. I've pretty much perfected cutting and lining up since this video. There's always something new to explore :) Happy Creating!

It can be a little overwhelming at first. If you are using a laptop be sure to install the ch 340 drivers located at top right of LaserGRBL under Tools. Most laptops do not have this driver that’s needed. Svg’s are still pretty experimental and when you open them in LaserGRBL , you are not given the option of changing sizes only cutting settings. LaserGRBL reads them as an outline only . PNG’s are solely what I work with. Pick yourself up a Corel Draw ( no earlier than version 12) off of say e-bay. I hope you got a good laptop with lots of memory and good processing speed. I use a desktop myself. I use gimp ( free) to edit photos from time to time. I do have some more videos on designing and another one on the way plus where to get free files.I also have some free files uploaded to the DiSignsCdn Subscribers Only Facebook page under the files tab . Click on the 3 dots to be able to download them . You can see previews of what images I’ve uploaded under the featured tab . So don’t panic , lots of help out there with the LaserGRBL Facebook group, You-Tube etc. You will get this and will be creating away soon enough 😊

@@disignscdn thanks for all that information. I have a friend of mine who is a tech expert and works in computer management and data companies sorting a laptop for me and he knows what it's for so I suspect it'll be plenty memory and processor speed. I have a few files but am gonna need to get some more. Appreciate the information though 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Thank you 😊

@@barry8538 you bet! Wish I could send a screen shot through here to show the settings. But here they are, SHARP, BW TURNED ON , VECTORIZE, SMOOTHING 1.0 Check that box on , OPTIMIZE 1.0 check that box on , ADAPTIVE QUALITY check that box on , if you have inside shapes that need cutting first , then click off optimize travel , FILLING - No filling . More recent video #40 really gets into cutting , settings and more fun stuff 😊

No That is the Laser Travels lines. So If you see these travel lines outside your graphic at any time, up your contrast or white clip a hair. ☺

I’m not sure exactly what you mean as in choosing the machine .I’m running 6.2.1 LaserGRBL and any prior version hasn’t asked for my machine . I know the list if you click on the book icon for material settings may not have all machines . The most important thing when first opening and connecting your machine is to open up GRBL configurations and click “refresh “ and “write “ to load your machine settings from it’s board 😊

When I import a raster image and use the conversion tool "center line" option, a new menu screen pops up titled "target image." In the speed section, There is like a three pancake layer thing to the right. when you hit that, another pop-up screen pops up Titled, "select your configuration". and on that screen, There are options for laser model, What material and what action you are going to do. If you hit the dropdown menu for laser model, there are presets for cutting and engraving, but there are so many different models, some don't allow cutting. And there's a variety of models such as the atomstack a j 20 watt or the leon, 3d 5.5 watt. The vevor is not on there so I'm picking one that's as close as possible

@@eye95records center line is only used for cnc'ing . So that's if your machine had a router and say you had a v bit in it. I've never used center line for Laser Cutting or engraving. 😊

Glad I could help 😊

You are welcome lots! Glad I could help :)

@@terryoflanagan1857 What version are you trying? The newest version seems to be causing some issues. I myself am running the 6.2.1 with no issues. You can get earlier versions than just the latest on the website. Normally the buttons do not light up if you are not connected so there’s a few things to check. Open LASERGRBL , turn on your laser, connect it by also selecting the proper Com port. Go to the top left tab “GRBL” and go to “GRBL configuration” You’ll want to click on the “refresh” for it to read your lasers configuration and then “write” . If it’s not reading it there then go to the following steps: What kind of computer are you running? I run a desktop. While some use a laptop, the CH340 driver needs to be installed. You can do this right from the top right tab will have the driver to install. Next check that your Laser machine has up to date firmware. Updates should be on a manufacturers website. What type of machine are you using? The ORTUR OLM3 has to have the SD card inserted in the machine to run. Check that your E-Stop is not on. Are you getting any error messages coming up in the console? ( that’s right under where you see “type GCode here” Let me know if any errors show up and how you make out. 😊

@@terryoflanagan1857 Just a few more questions.. after opening a file and doing your settings , do all your buttons show colour that you are in deed connected and it’s just the play button that’s not ? I’m wondering if the artwork file you are trying to do is bigger than your laser beds allowed travel area. When you are sizing it, do any boxes highlight in red? That’s a definite sign your artwork is too big. Check your manufacturers laser bed parameters and double check in “ GRBL configurations that $130 & $131 are inputted correctly. With your laser machine on, you can edit these and then click on “write” for it to save your changes. ☺️

Yes. Or even any file type but svg. Svg’s are still pretty experimental in LaserGRBL . You aren’t given the option to resize and it only understands it as an outline for cutting . 😊

@@disignscdn thank you very much for getting back to me

@@disignscdn Sadly the PNG didn't work either. No matter where I clicked with the flood fill tool, it just turned the whole page one colour.

@@unicornadrian1358 Yes, it can be a pain in the butt. But if you are already playing with a design software, then you can delete it there to export . It is wayyyyy easier 😃 My trick is to make a white bounding box or even design it to the size of my material . I can then centre it and get perfect placement . I’ll duplicate the file , take out what I need to just engrave or cut and export that file. Using the “file append” feature I can engrave and then cut knowing everything will line up perfectly . Video 21 goes over that. 😊

@@disignscdn Thank you very much. I checked out video 21 and went with that idea. It worked great, especially with purchased files. In Inkscape I just ungrouped everything and deleted the engraving parts leaving a cut file that I run separately. I found the append feature set the same laser power level for both operations. I just run the cut file separately.

@@BrendaDavis-1963 Nothing wrong with that 😊 Many people use it without a single issue. Unfortunately I had issues with it or perhaps my first machine the ORTUR LM2 Pro just didn’t like it. 🤷🏻‍♀️ You can’t go wrong for its price and being able to design right in it. The techs and forum are very helpful . I already had a number of design programs so I just needed a program to run the code accurately and consistently . I use LaserGRBL and love it. 😊

@@disignscdn well I’m just starting out so I heard with a new upgrade or the updated version. People have a lot of trouble out of it so I’m gonna go back to the old version.

@@BrendaDavis-1963 Yes, I’ve seen there’s been some issues.. not sure if it’s user issues or software though. I’m also not fond of the new look, but apparently that can be changed. I’m running version 6.2.1 I believe. I tend not to jump on the update button until I see how it works for others. Plus, if I find something that’s not broke why fix it? 🤷🏻‍♀️😂 There is a page on the LaserGRBL site to download the older versions if any else is reading this comment and wants to switch back . 😊

@@TheHillsHaveFPV Most definitely it is not wise to move it manually while it is on. It can definitely cause a static charge that can short out a motherboard . That is why in my videos I warn of this. My machine is turned off and it’s actually unplugged from my computer and power is turned off as well while focusing . It’s a good practice to get into for anyone not to leave your machine constantly plugged in . I live in an area frequented by power flickers and the storms this summer have been crazy! Those who do not have homing switches and must manually bring their laser module to the home position , must also remember to do this slowly and best practice is with the machine still unplugged. Grounding a machine properly helps as well. ☺️

@@disignscdn doesn't matter if its on or off. spinning the motor causes the magnets inside to move past the wire coils, inducing an electrical current. Depending on how fast you spin it, the higher the voltage spikes will be. a motor and generator are the same thing. You can cause an electric generator to spin by applying voltage to it, or you can generate voltage from a motor by spinning it

Thank you! 😊

Glad I could help :)

It depends on what version you load and what colour you have your laser set too ( Top left tabs) . This is a very early version and I have have my laser set to red in order to get it showing blue. It is much easier to view previews of photos. I am now using 6.2.1 and it will look the same as well. Later versions you are able to edit what your screen looks like, or you are able to go to the lasergrbl site and download an earlier version. I wasn't fond of the black screen myself. :)

Just thought I'd ask if your artwork shows offset to the right of your screen showing 0 and then negative numbers to the left. In your second pop up screen you may have accidently center offset turned on or a value in the offset boxes, and it will do this automatically with some files and show it in 4 quadrants. I've gotten in the habit of plopping any of my graphics on top of just a white box or circle with no outline, the same dimensions of my material I am using so it's already centered. I'll also export my material size in a black circle or box that I'll frame around first before opening my engrave file. My video "purrrfect alignment" goes over this, and this way you are always engraving from the lasers home position making it very easy to go over with another pass if you want or being able to start it again if say you ever get a power outage. It's darn near impossible to jog your laser to an exact position that you set an origin to a second time but it is possible. :)

Thank you! With my OLM3 10 watt and Lasergrbl it was SHARP, 1 bit BW dithering turned on, white clip 0, I played with the brightness and contrast a bit. Atkinson filter , but I do like Jarvis as well. 6-7 lines. Speed was 2600 mm/min at 95% power and dynamic power. I did have to give a little sand with 220 grit sand paper with my orbital sander for some charring but I wanted the engraving quite deep for painting. I believe this was on elm but this is my common setting on even Maple or Pine. :)

Thank you so much for replying. I love your art work❤

I’m using Signmaster Expert, Corel Draw 9 &12 ( Signmaster comes with vinyl cutters and I upgraded to Expert. I picked up Corel Draw 12 for cheap off of e-bay it’s muchly needed for editing svg’s. Corel 9 was too early a version for svg’s) I also use Gimp for photos . 😊

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner.. I didn’t get a notification ! But anywho.. I like using basswood or birch ply. Basswood sheets are much cheaper than birch ply right now. I get a 10 pack 11.8” x 11.8” x 1/8” for $31.99 CAD from Amazon . Cuts beautifully with my 10 watt at 225 mm/min , M3 constant power, min 94% Max 95% . One pass , also with air assist. 😊

@@disignscdn thank you. Gonna try this ☺️

@@crafty-zebra Awesome! You will like basswood. It’s far better for intricate designs . If you plan on doing some earrings check out the lobster claw clasps rather than the wee tiny rings you have to bend to get through the holes ..those suckers fly out of your fingers and are impossible to find 😂 ( speaking from experience .. lol )

@@disignscdn 😂 thank you for the information ☺️

That is a strange thing to be happening.😱 x axis being left to right and y axis being front to back of the machine. What happens when you jog only the y axis? I'm wondering if something got inverted in the code somehow as most laser machines only have 1 way to plug them in and are pretty foolproof unless something got crossed at time of manufacturing? What Laser machine are you using?

@@disignscdn atomstack p7 is the machine would the machine jog accordingly to the orientation of the picture I'm carving

@@kernowcoinringscornishcoin3999 It shouldn't. If you are jogging your x than your x axis should move not your y axis. I did try searching it up and found that someone was having similar issues and this is how they tested it. ( see link ) I hope this helps. I definitely recommend putting in a request for technical advice with Atomstack as well. forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/my-atomstack-p7-suddenly-stopped-working-effectively-in-the-y-axis-and-now-returns-alarm-9-and-alarm-1-messages-can-anyone-help/89593

@disignscdn thanks for your help would there be anything in the laser grbl settings to invert the x and y

@@kernowcoinringscornishcoin3999 That would be $23 in GRBL configurations . That only inverts your homing position and should not invert the X and Y axis when jogging . When you home the machine now , what direction does it go to home? Bottom left or top right ? . I just read another post that said disabling hard and soft limits in GRBL settings helped one fellow. Is this machine brand new to you or did it just start to do this on you? As possibly updating the firmware for it may help as well . That should be available on the manufacturers website. Secondly are you using a laptop or computer. You may need to install the CH340 Driver you will see under a tab in LaserGRBL at the top right for it to run correctly. Unfortunately I don’t own the same type of Laser as you to help with any of your LaserGRBL configurations . But if you’d like to take screen shots of your configurations , your X and Y plugins etc. and e-mail them to dianecolclough70@gmail.com , I might be able to spot if something is off 😊

That is what I’m using is inexpensive acrylic water based craft paint just from the dollar store. I have found it has a pretty good UV ( sunshine) resistance as well with a good clear coat ) I have stuff from 10 years ago sitting on my porch with no fading or sun bleaching in the colours. You can also get outdoor acrylic water based paints like the Ohuhu brand. They have some beautiful pigment rich colours and can be watered down as well. 😊

We all start somewhere 😊 Glad I could help

I’m glad you found it helpful! I am working on a more up to date video.. and a project we can all do together . I’m just finding I’m a busy busy gal 😂 . I’m currently using 6.2.1 . On the LaserGRBL forum on Facebook, I was seeing some people having issues ( most times user error) with the newer versions . I always like to wait to make sure the bugs are worked out. I do suggest going to LaserGRBL.com for recent tutorials 😊

You will find the files and more here :) facebook.com/groups/1224235088326202

I’m not sure exactly what you mean? Are you having issues engraving or cutting? Is what you are wanting to cut a solid fill when bringing it into LaserGRBL ? Because if it is just an outline , and you are vectorizing it , with no fills turned on , it will just give you a double line☺️.

It depends on your machine. For example Xtool machines can engrave a curved surface because they now come with automatic height calibration. I have seen bottles and glasses done without a rotary. Keep in mind though the outer edges of any graphic will be not be at the optimal focus height that the very center ( highest height ) of a glass would be at. This can cause thicker lines, not fully engraving into a glass or faded in appearance engraving. You are safe to do smaller in size engravings. Hope this helps :)

It’s quite therapeutic to sit and paint 😊

Understandably it can be scary if you think you may do it wrong. 😆 But it will definitely help to not leave any pesky lines when framing. This is a jumping off point that you can eventually make your own custom buttons as you begin to understand G code. :)

I suggest looking up your particular Laser and it’s control board directions. I’ve honestly never used an SD card and none of my machines has a remote controller .

@@disignscdn thank you! I am trying to figure it out. I have the Creality Falcon 10W. It doesn't have a remote controller. I'm supposed to be able to just save the file to the SD card and then put it in and press the start button. We will see! I am definitely going to continue watching your videos for assistance on the program though. It doesn't look too challenging. Thanks so much!

@@brittanydemaria4877 You are very welcome. :) I'm thinking Lasergrbl along with a USB connection may be your easiest and most reliable option for batch jobs. ( engraving & cutting simultaneously ) :)

@@disignscdn Based on everything I've watched, I completely agree! However, I only have a desktop and we have to put the machine in the garage. Therefore, I am stuck with the offline use. 😞

@@brittanydemaria4877 ahhhh got ya... I've put my desktop on a small wheelie cart. It definitely comes in handy when I have to turn the orientation of my engraver on the table for larger materials. Plus I can easily pack it up and roll it into my vinyl cutting room. Yes, ideally it would be nice to have another desktop computer.. but a wheeled trolly cart is a lot more cost efficient at the moment. :D