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Thank you very much!🙏😊

@@moritzherr i love your car, so beautiful

🙏🙏

@@Hi_its_me_Wing Already saw this one😂 Sadly I am pretty limited on what parts I can install on the FC since I'm living in Germany and modding regulations are pretty strict here🥲

@@marvingaviola2216 It does both. The vacuum line runs from the Upper Intake Manifold down to the Wastegate diaphragm. If you're just coasting, you're engine pulls a vacuum, but if you hit boost it pressurizes everything.

@@vejw. Thanks man, I wish😅 I'll post the locations in the video description tomorrow👍 Probably going there in October again aswell :)

I updated the Video description with all the locations✌️

@@peppe_pacific More than what I bought the car for🥲 About 20k

Jesus😂 Gotta change the Ad interval. RUclips always automatically set’s the Ad amount super high…

Thank you very much!🙏✌️

Thank you very much for the kind feedback!🙏

Glad this video helped you! Make sure the engine get‘s enough fuel tho!😁

@@newtypecs700 Trust me any other grown man who grew up with Initial D would have done the same thing… But hey man at least my E46 doesn‘t look like any other M3🤫

Thank you for watching the video!🙏🏻

Thanks mate, glad you like it! :)

@@iANTVpublicbrothers You probably mean Fuel cut. It‘s a preventative measure of the ECU to save your engine in case boost levels get to high. In this case you will need a FCD (Fuel cut defencer) that will fool the ECU into thinking you‘re running less boost than you actually are. Only do this if you know what you‘re doing!! And at the very least get a wideband O2 sensor to make sure you don‘t lean out and blow your engine!

From factory the rotary engine is designed to burn oil. It injects engine oil directly into the combustion chamber via a so called "oil metering pump (OMP)" to lubricate the Apex seals. The Apex seals sit on each of the 3 tips of the rotor and they drag across the metal rotor housing while the rotor is spinning. Therefore they need to be lubricated. Injecting engine oil into the combustion chamber to lubricate the Apex seals however, is arguably the worst thing to do as engine oil is NOT AT ALL designed to be burnt! And because it doesn't burn cleanly it creates huge amounts of carbon buildup inside the engine. This buildup traps the heat and this is especially dangerous in rotary engines as they run very hot. This can lead to the carbon build up igniting your Air/fuel mixture prematurely which is deadly for rotaries. Usually this misxture is being ignited by your sparkplugs at a very specific timing. Now if it ignites prematurely/at the wrong time this can lead to Apex seals exploding etc. or basically: Engine failure. This is why many people delete this entire OMP system and add 2 stroke oil to their fuel. 2 Stroke oil is designed to burn very very cleanly while lubricating the apex seals even better than the stock OMP does :)

Most people who are saying stuff like that have either never owned a rotary themselves or are just trashtalking to seem like they know what they are talking about... There is so much shit being said about rotaries that is simply not true. I'd say if you get a car with a healthy engine and if you know all of the little tricks on how to treat it properly, then these things are the most reliable cars ever seriously! If you get one in poor condition then don't even try to fix it up😅 It will make you poor. Parts are very hard and expensive to come by but that goes for all old japanese cars so this is not the main argument against rotaries. So to summarize: Thereis a lot of misinformation out there regarding rotaries. And this misinformation is mostly spread by those who have no idea on how to treat their car properly.

Hahah thanks man!😁

@@crashoutvergil It was abandoned and hasn‘t been registered for over 14 years :) Just got a new paintjob before it got delivered, that‘s why on first glance it looked so good from the outside. Check out my other videos too, there you can even see proof that it was not on the road for literally 14 years.

Thank you :)

Be careful with cheap FC's man😅 Parts are extremely expensive and hard to find. You don't wanna know how much money I have spent on mine to get it to this stage. And mine was a very very clean example when I bought it. I don't want to know how much it will cost to make a cheap FC clean again man😯

They are stunning aren't they? :)

Thanks mate!🙏

Glad you like it man!🙏

Danke dir! Freut mich, dass dir der Build gefällt :) Wenn du an einem RX-7 interessiert bist, dann kann ich dir nur eines raten: Hol dir keinen!😂 Nein Spaß bei Seite, es sind sehr tolle und spezielle Autos und ich liebe meinen FC wirklich. Allerdings gilt folgendes für alle alten japanischen Autos und speziell für alte Japaner mit Wankelmotoren: Sie sind einfach eine Kostenfalle... Teile sind extrem teuer und schwer zu besorgen, Wartung und genereller Unterhalt ist unsinnig teuer und von den Anschaffungskosten will ich überhaupt nicht anfangen😅 Insgesamt liegen die Kosten von meinem Build inzwischen über 40.000€ womit ich schon mehr ausgegeben habe, als das Auto eigentlich Wert ist im aktuellen Markt. Ich habe ihn damals mit frischem Lack für 19.000€ geholt und nochmal über 22.000€ reingesteckt, damit er so da steht.

@@moritzherr ich danke dir für diesen einblick😄 Interessiert bin ich natürlich, aber ich hab dieses Jahr erstmal meinen Erstwagen besorgt (ein NB MX-5) und träume schon vor mir her, was man sich als nächstes kaufen könnte😅 Also das hat noch Zeit. Vllt sind die in ein paar Jahren schon gar nicht mehr bezahlbar. Wer weiß. Die Preise von den richtig exotischen Japanern sind ja schon hart in die Höhe gestiegen. Wo du früher noch ne Supra bekommen hast, bekommste heute vllt noch eine Celica🙃 Aber wenn du sagst teuer im Unterhalt etc. Wie viel bezahlst du für den RX-7 so im Monat? Also so insgesamt, falls du das sagen möchtest natürlich 😄

@@speedyboy86 KFZ-Steuer ist tatsächlich super günstig (100€ im Jahr). Versicherung liegt bei mir bei 290€ im Jahr (Variiert natürlich je nach SFK). Was richtig reinhaut sind Sprit (Das Teil braucht mindestens Super Plus) und davon nicht wenig. Dazu das teure Motul 800 2 Takt Öl (600ml pro Tankfüllung ohne OMP). Billiges sollte man nicht verwenden, da braucht der RX-7 schon etwas spezielleres synthetisches mit höherem Flammpunkt. Dann kommen Kosten dazu wie zum Beispiel für mindestens 1-2 Ölwechsel im Jahr (20W 50) + mindestens 1-2 Mal neue Zündkerzen Pro Jahr (sind auch spezielle). Dann noch mindestens 1x pro Jahr Kühlwasser Wechsel. Das sind die groben Kosten unter der Bedingung, dass nix kaputt geht😂

It sure drinks a lot of fuel!😅🙏

I was torn between red and pink but ended up with pink at last. I know it doesn't fit the rest of the build but that wasn't my goal :) I wanted the engine bay to be the place where I can completely personalize the FC where as the rest of the car was supposed to be very close to the original car from the anime.

Thank you brother🙏🏻

Mit Sicherheit!😄 Wo kommst du denn her?

​@@moritzherrIch bin auch aus lahr!👍🏽

Not all of them are in that bad of a condition :) But in my case it wasn‘t the rust but the technical problems that were challenging about this thing

Danke dir :) Bin nächstes Jahr auf der Tuningworld Bodensee mit dem FC👍🏻

Thanks for the support and the suggestion!😁 Will do that for sure!

@@moritzherr Great, thank you very much! :D