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Sounds like a learning experience. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Good luck getting it off!

Agreed. I will like to make a much more rigid bed with auto raise/lower!

It was. But improved was the goal and it turned out fi e in the final project.

The instructions told me to put the countersunk sleeves on the inside of the table side of the vice. My mistake was to put the on the inside of the outside part of the vise. I am not sure exactly what function they provide but I imagine that they help by acting like a guide for the rail no matter what side they are on!

It does seem logical to use a thinner board for a sled. The main reason would be screw length. You will need to screw your guide strip to the bottom. Also I find occasions where I screw clamps or other boards down to the surface of the sled. With a half inch sled there is not a lot of wood to grab onto. But if that is all you have you could epoxy the guide to the bottom and it might work.

Things I would do differently: Is the faceplate as a guide to trace your holes onto the wood. I made the mistake of drilling the center hole too small. Also my vise plates are too skinny. The thicker the better perhaps more like two inches thick. I drilled a bench dog hole in the outer and ripped it right off the outer vise! And like I mentioned in the video the guides were supposed to go on the inside! Good luck

Thanks! I used Oak, Walnut and Heartwood!

I use the probe that came with my cnc. But you don't have to use a probe. Another method would be to use the paper method, where you slowly lower the bit down, decreasing the step size, until trap the paper to the surface you are zeroing to. Then reset the zero height for "Z" and then you have a zero'd surface to the bed, or bottom of your work piece.

You just need to make sure that you set up your model to use the bed as the Z=0 or it won't work.

Thanks for the comment. I believe I have a similar recommendation from my job site table saw manufacturer. It takes more power initially to turn the wider blade. Fortunately, I have never blown a breaker with it. I still use my 6" set when I don't need the cross cut sled. After all, I've already purchased it and Stumpy Nubbs recommended a great brand. I would have appreciated fully understanding why a 6" might not work out though.

This is not the place for music. When you are showing how to do something talk.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Agreed. 1/2" would have given me a bit more depth on top of the sled, but when I make finger joints, I'm usually needing more than 1/2".

What makes this install unique, is that it is installed on a hinged lid above my planer. So I build a 3 plywood deep pedestal to support the screws that would have a good length to hold the vise. Here are the steps: 1. Turn the table over to install the support block to the underside. 2. Find the position for the support block by placing the inside of the jaw (oak planks) and cut out a place for the jaw to set. This will be the inside jaw of the vise. 3. Cut out the location that the inside jaw will be located at and will be screwed to the support block. 4. Since the shafts of the vice pass through both side of the vise jaws, you will need to find the position of these holes (one way would be to hold the outer bracket up to the outer vise jaw and trace the location of the holes). Make sure you use the correct diameter for the shafts, as they will need to slide through these holes freely. This is where I made a mistake and underestimate the diameter of the threaded shaft, as well as being off on the positioning. I leave this in the video so you won't make the same mistake. 5. The 2 inch forstner bit is to create a recessed hole for the shaft guides, which should go on the INSIDE JAW. This was another mistake I made as I put them on the outside jaw. 6. Once the holes can receive the vise shafts, assemble the vice. In my case, it was beneficial because the vice could be installed upside down, with easy access to the screw holes. I screw the plywood pedestal to the plywood lid and screw the vise support bracket to the plywood pedestal. 7. I turn the lid over, with the now installed vice reinstall the hinges so I can open it to use my planer when I need it.

What should he be using?

LOL, every tool has a place. The point of this video is as a newbie, I couldn't for see that I would want to use a cross cut sled, which I now use a lot with my 8" dado set.

Agreed. It was my inexperience that missed the point of his comment. If you need to use a cross cut sled the 6" dado won't be high enough. I bought an 8" set from Amazon and it works great with the crosscut sled. The horsepower of my small dewalt table saw handles it fine. It enabled me to make the drawers I needed.

Thanks George! It's funny, I found the right video to watch from Stumpy Nubs, but I didn't have the experience to understand that eventually I would want to use a cross-cut sled with it. Stumpy lists all the benefits of a 6" set but until you realize that you can't cut box joints, which is probably the thing I will do the most, and so now I have two dado sets. LOL

Thank you. It has been really fun to find ways to improve the bench!

Thank you! Now I just need to growing and learning.

Thanks Nikolay. It has been a great journey.

Thanks!

Thank you! I recently bought a roller stand to help with the in feed of the table saw and the out feed of the planer.