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Well, because technically there are not multiple bonds. I have a grid setup there which you wouldn't find in your home. You think that one distribution box there is the main and the other a sub-panel, but its not. One is the grid distribution and the two others are mains, or if you are American both my mains are the same box just that you have the right and the left busbar. The current can only go back to its origin always via its dedicated breaker. In no case there is a parallel loop where currents could split over two breakers and such reduce fault currents. And then there is always the double protection with RCDs. Not to detect parallel currents (I can confirm that I didn't have a single tripping of a not directly related RCD in that house in 10 years) but to reduce sensitivity to earth faults from tens of amps down to milliamps.

@@viyusavery248 thanks, but for most i am speaking to slow. hehe

Did you build it or is it a manufactured battery? What type of cells are used?

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore They are 9373129 3.7v cells that i harvested from some powerbanks, each cell is 10,000mah and i got about 84 of them connected in 7s/12p configuration for a total 3.1kwh, quite small but sufficient for my 250w load for 6hours.

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore I used 9373126 pouch cells got about 84 of them i harvested from some portable powerbanks. Each pack is 20,000mah (two 10,000mah in parallel) giving me about 6kwh, quite enough for my energy needs at the moment as i run less than 400w load for 14hrs.

@@frankves1 passive

I don't think the installation was bad, was it? There was a correctly sized wire attached to each of the terminals. The installation was done in a place with some dust and relative high air humidity as anywhere else in the Tropics, but otherwise dry... So in my opinion the quality of the terminals and internals is not suitable for a place like this and shouldn't be sold to anyone in a tropical country. Or what would you say?

Well, yeah. Dimmed LEDs when circuit is off, strange voltages where they shouldn't be, that are all signs of missing earthing and correct Neutral-Earth bond on the inverters AC output side while in off-grid mode. Did you check your earthing configuration? You are 230V/1 phase, right?

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore yes its a 230v single phase actually its a small system it is only 2kva ... in all truth its completely offgrid and not earthed ... i have one earthing pole i dont kno should i mix all earthing both dc and ac so many school of thoughts there had me confused... but at one point i did have my system eatherd but my problem ddnt go away

@@nhlanhlankala8230 only connect structures on the DC side to earthing. Do not earth let's say the negative pole of your battery or PV. earth your inverter to your pole or earthing bar and make a Neutral to Earth bond on the AC side as shown in my video about simple Off-grid systems. Then everything should work just fine.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore let me look for the video and follow as you advise i will be sure to post feedback by earthing the dc side only i presume you mean from the surge protection device

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore another ask its off topic though ... my inverter specs say on the solar charger mode_ Rated power 2000w Mppt range 30 to 400 Nominal operating voltage 230vdc I have 3 by 585watts canadian panels with each around 50 voc, my ask is around that nominal operating voltage my 3 panels dont reach that and if i where to add more i would surely exceed that rated 2000watts solar rating besides the grounding and bonding issue u have given me solution to everything works fine what are the implications of me not reaching that 230vdc nominal and can i exceed the rated 2000wats and my equpment safe aslong am below 400vdc

Hi, do you live in Thailand? And do you use those Sinopoly cells and even want to add more? I am asking because I wouldn't use such 2nd hand cells from Thai sellers anymore. They are just originally sorted out as bad and sold on the market for good ones. My pack is down to 50% SOH after just a few years. Considering the not such big difference in price to brand new cells, new cells are the much better deal... Brand new EVE cells are very cheap nowadays. I would highly recommend you to go for such cells. You can as well choose different capacities with such cells. I had been using flat aluminum form bars with size 25x2,5mm (in Thailand they are sized 1"x 3mill or so). Thats about 60mm2 aluminum and can handle almost 200A. In my case they aren't even getting warm. You would just have to cut them to length and drill holes the right distance to connect the M6 screws. I will most probably replace the Sinopoly pack by new batteries this year. The best cells I will sell for a very fair price and the bad ones give away for free if someone needs it for lets say an UPS...

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Hi Roland I live in Mukdahan in eastern Thailand. I am aware that the barriers are 2nd hand.. but I don't have any major problems with that... The first set I have now is a little over 3 years old and there are only 3 batteries that have been changed... We don't use air conditioning or other power-hungry devices besides the vacuum cleaner and the lawn mower. I am contacting you because when you order there are 2 screws in 1 busbar with each battery... but now they have to be connected 2 and 2, then there is not enough busbar ;) so I wanted to know if you know the size of them so I can order some more... Beg is in Bangkok right now but will drive home to Muk on Thursday morning next week. There is a 2 to 3 day delivery on the batteries so I think I will order on Tuesday so they might be at home in Muk when I get home too..

@@nicolinejosefinemoelskov4579 so yeah. Either you go for aluminum which you could get online by 1m pieces or even get them in a window shop. Those shops which are building aluminum windows locally. That way one single busbar is used for all cells at once. If you cannot find anything, i do have those copper busbars which the sellers are including to the cells left in my garage. I could send you some of those...

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore I find your email I send message private to you... hope it´s okay..

Uwe, Du hast natürlich recht, aber wozu hier etwas reinkomplizieren was im Endeffekt nicht relevant ist weil es ansonsten sowieso zum Null-tarif ins Netz rausgehen würde. Der Wirkungsgrad des AC-gekoppelten Speichers wird sich bald deutlich erhöhen :) LG, Roland

@@uweheckmann5111 die Speicherverluste sind je nach Batteriesystem unterschiedlich. Bei der DIY AC-Powerwall ist der Verlust 15%, Beim Off-Grid System 9% und beim Hybrid ca. 7%. Also im Schnitt wäre das über alle meine Systeme gerechnet etwas mehr als 10% Verlust beim Ein- und Ausspeichern...

Thanks for following :)

@@NickSeilot-nc6fo hi, there was only one probe option for me. guess it will be the small ones which i have

Hi. Willkommen im "Rabbithole" Sun1000-AC-Seite ;) Ohne eingelöteten IGBTs was sagt der Widerstandswert auf der Platine? Dort ist ein 10k Pull-Down Widerstand platziert also sollte der Wert 10k betragen. Wenn es immer noch nahe Kurzschluss ist, schmeiß einmal den Treiber raus und messe noch einmal. Ich bin mir jetzt nicht sicher ob irgendwo ein Filter-Kondensator zwischen G-E eingebaut ist. Verfolge einmal die Leiterbahnen in der nähe der IGBTs ob da noch irgendetwas anderes dran hängt. Alles Gute! LG, Roland

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Hallo Roland, der Wechselrichter läuft wieder. Vielen Dank für die Hilfe. Der Treiber U3 hatte ein kurzschluss. Viele Grüße Paul

Greetings to the USA, happy new year!

@@johnjamce1146 yes

@@houseofancients yes. luckily there was nothing flammable around that place.

I would say it depends on the use case as low frequency inverters are more expensive. And the biggest advantage of them is their surge capability. So if one doesn't need it, high frequency inverters will do well too. But yeah, for someone being completely off-grid, i would recommend to go for a low frequency inverter as well.

i lived in south east asia and those unbranded power adapters are well known to kill people during charging their phone.

hi, thanks for your report. Just be careful when you go for the big high voltage capacitors. Only replace with top brand components as if you get something crappy there, you will be worse off then by not touching what's there. The main DC rail capacitors tend to be quite reliable.

hi. yes, no there is a 10A Type-B breaker protecting the circuit. Before unfortunately there was no breaker or fuse in line at all :)

how old are your inverters?

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore hello. they are almost new i think this is second year i'm using them.

@@uweheckmann5111 super, danke

Na ja, wenn man nach 2 bis 3 Jahren schon Kondensatoren tauschen muss spricht das nicht für Qualität. Ist nicht jeder Bastler wie du und daher bei den meisten schon nach wenigen Jahren Totalschaden. Dann der hohe Eigenverbrauch, bei einer kleinen Anlage viel zu hoch.

hi. whenever you can simultaneously touch two different grounded structures/chassis/appliances with your body or any conductive item that you are holding which is touching those, then it must be of course grounded to the same ground plane! But if your PV array is lets say 20m away from your power room then connecting it to a single grounding point makes no sense to me as it is far more advantageous to direct surges to ground as close to its source as possible. Behause if it wouldn't be like that, one would have to connect all grounding of a whole street to a single grounding point if one house is built next to each other, right? Yes, one neutral to ground bond per electrical installation. But that bond must serve every of the power sources equally. If that is not the case you have to analyze your circuits and find the best place for a bond. Fault currents can only go back to its source, so you must provide a path for it but avoid multiple paths which could split currents and reduce their strength so that breakers, etc. wouldn't fail to trip in a fault situation!

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Thankyou sir for your detailed response, i agree with you, i myself think that the equipotential chasis was unesesary as the the pv array was almost 30 meters away from the braker box and building, me personally, i would like to keep the grounding of the pv panel array and its strucure apart due to the 30 meter distance because i imagine that the pv array acts as one big antena to atract lighting and as you say its better it goes straight to ground and not interact with the other system grounds. Cheers.

Hallo Paul. Die Frequenzanzeige kannst Du getrost vergessen, da dieser Wert dort auf keiner Messung beruht, sondern nur signalisieren soll dass das Netz außerhalb der Parameter liegt und der Wechselrichter somit nicht aufschaltet. Das schreibt er also nur willkürlich so hin! Ausschlaggebend ist einzig das Signal welches er von den 4 Widerständen kommend sieht. Wenn dort eine Verzerrung der Sinuswelle angezeigt wird, also somit kein eindeutiger Durchgang des Nullpunktes zu erkennen ist, dann erkennt er das Netz nicht richtig. Meistens bei "Grid Error", kann das direkt an diesen 4 Widerständen liegen, da diese Feuchtigkeit anziehen und Korrosion bilden. Du solltest diese also neu löten damit sie guten Kontakt haben. Leider ist das Signal aber auch ein Produkt aus der H-Brücke zwischen den 2 IGBTs welche die Wechselspannung schalten. Wenn mit den IGBTs etwas nicht stimmt, wird das Signal verzerrt! Hast Du die Wartungsdatei aus dem Videolink aus dem Blog vom Bobby gefunden womit Du den Wechselrichter tiefgreifender diagnostizieren kannst? Damit kannst Du dann noch andere Widerstände, Spannungen, etc. kontrollieren. Liebe Grüße und ein frohes Neujahr! Roland

@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Hallo Roland, ja danke und dir auch ein frohes neues Jahr! Ich habe die 4 Widerstände neu verlötet. Hat leider nichts gebracht. Habe die dann ausgelötet und festgestellt das einer ein leicht anderen Wert hat wie die anderen. Habe die aufjedenfall jetzt erstmal bestellt. Wenn das auch nicht klappt, schau ich mir das mit die Igbts an. Vielen Dank für den Tipp! Gruß Paul

​@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMoreHallo Roland, ich habe heute die 4 Widerstände gegen neue ausgetauscht. Hat leider nichts geändert. Habe dann mit der Anleitung fehlersuche betrieben. Aufgefallen ist mir, das bei den Igbts zwischen Gate und Emitter ein deutlich kleinerer Wert ist, wie es in der Anleitung gezeigt wird. Fast kurzschluss. Habe dann beide Igbts ausgelötet und gemessen. Beide sind i.o und haben auch kein Kurzschluss. Könnte das auf ein Defekt des Treibers U3 hindeuten? Viele Grüße Paul

Because of the nature that a fuse works by heating up a wire - and if overloaded - until it melts, Fuses and subsequently its holders will get warm if they operate near their rated current. So the heat does come from the fuse! This is a bit different with MCBs as there you have the thermal as well a magnetic actuator. Till now I didn't notice any abnormal heating on the new holders even with chargers running all day at max. output. And bigger holders with bigger fuses, especially the ceramic type, will have far less issues with overheating. Gold plated contacts are of course the ultimate way of getting electricity or signals from one component to the next but as you said that's expensive and typically only used for delicate circuits, miniature connectors, HF applications, etc. It is practice to use ferrules for any type of screw-in terminals where the single strands of the wires would be just pushed out while the screw is tightened. Ferrules are said not to be necessary or even forbidden to be used with boxed-terminals like you have in breakers or other such holders as it is more likely that the wires could be pulled out of the ferrule more easily then out of a boxed terminal. Still, I do see benefits to use ferrules on very fine stranded wires even in such scenarios. And I honestly do use them if I see it to be the right choice. If you can exclude pulling forces on wires then there will not be an issue with ferrules anyways.

Yes of course. But with fuses there are zero mechanical components. There are only metal pieces squeezed towards each other. So yeah, in my opinion it should work far better and I will of course report if there are issues ;)

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore its true its more simple, also cheaper, and if you dont service it often, same comfort as mcbs. I installed a few TAIXI mcbs, looking like good brand, on aliexpress more than 10years, also way more expensive. You can give it a try on another project, if they can sustain your harsh environmental conditions.

No. It's just that I can't have any luck with any of those DC-MCBs in my climate here. Both of the types failed on my periodically. It's just that this situation needed a solution, which will now hopefully be the case :)

Thanks for following!

Merry Christmas to you too!

Hi, yes. Thanks for the input. Overload protection is usually part of the device internally in case of power electronics like chargers and inverters. This is really just to protect from low resistance faults without needing to worry about current direction withing charging/discharging DC battery circuits.

Hello Mate, Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones too!

Hi, you can find an e-mail adress in my channel information. Please send a message there. thanks

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore got it ,thanks Roland I already sent message for you please kindly check it

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore ok Roland thanks

SPDs protect from external influences like lightning induced voltage surges on the PV power lines. External surges can only flow back to Earth, which is the opposite pole of the power source from which it was generated (lightning). The surge will be most likely equal on either of you DC+ or DC-. The SPD rating must be higher then your systems Idle Voltage otherwise current would flow from DC powerline to PE and as most solar equipment is transformer-less, then further via the AC-earthing back into the inverters DC side. That means you would have DC leakage on your AC-PE which in general is a fault condition for the inverter. SPDs are not used to take care overvoltage conditions between DC+ and DC-, as voltage control is a direct function inside the inverter itself. Example: 10 PV panels in series with a Idle voltage of 40V result in a Idle system voltage of 400V thus you need a 500V SPD. 5 PV panels in series would give you 200V so you can go with a 250V SPD. The maximum DC system voltage will depend on your used equipment. If you are using grid-tied inverters with a max input voltage of 550V then you can connect 13 panels as in this example and you will need a SPD which is rated for more than that voltage...

Thanks for excellent reply. To avoid overvoltage beween DC+ and DC- can I apply 1 pole SPD connecting DC+ (Solar) to DC+ (SPD) and DC- (Solar) to PE (SPD)?

@@JoseSantos-qx2sm why would you want to do that? If a lightning is inducing a surge into you PV and it cannot release its charge to Earth, the voltage potential would rise regardless if that is DC+ or DC- as the DC is isolated from earth. So measured to Earth, both DC+ and DC- could reach thousands of Volts, but towards each other they will still have same voltage potentials as before the surge. The Mppt controller would even adjust loads to keep it that way :) The energy of the surge doesn't belong to the PV circuit, it belongs to the external circuit which is formed by the earth, clouds and lightning bolt. So any wiring must discharge the energy into earth if you don't want to create voltage potentials between power lines. If each of the poles get clamped to 600V by the SPDs, the differential voltage on the poles is Zero. Did you see someone to recommend this to do use SPDs between poles? If your system requires to earth bond for example the DC-, then you only need to put an SPD at the DC+ as DC- is connected to earth anyways...

Thanks! The idea would be a normal SPD (2 pole) and other (1pole) detailed on last message. However, I think the best idea is to use a 3 pole SPD DC, it will assure protection between DC+ and DC-, DC+ and PE, DC- and PE. Instead of a 2 pole, which do not protect between DC+ and DC-. Do you agree?

@@JoseSantos-qx2sm Well, if you see a benefit in connecting DC+ and DC- then do it.

Is there a sort of schedule when you do the grid charge or is it just random? You could use timer relays to set for example a 3 hours charge and then the relay automatically disconnects. And next time you just unplug and plug in again for a new cycle...

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Hello Roland, it is random, the inverter will use the grid to charge batteries when insufficient solar (sol or sbu in settings). We thought about connecting the inverter ac input to the grid input side of the transfer switch which would work fine unless we needed to bond earth and neutral this would not be ok.. It seems there would be no option other than disconnect grid input to the inverter when switching to off grid..

@hasger1941 yes. That's the problem with the All-in-One Off-grid type inverters. But i think that only the Grid Bypass is the problem. The AC charging might actually be isolated and not creating a bond between output and input...???

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Ahh this is an interesting point, we will need to check this... Thank you Roland, Also some of these inverters support parallel function and automatically do the ground and neutral bond internally when in off grid mode.. The question is when using say 2 or more in parallel is it now a problem since the bonding is happening in more than one place ? This is since some say only to bond in one place i.e not at inverter and also the distribution board ??

ok update: the inverters have communication ports so when using in a parallel system we will assume the dynamic bonding will hopefully only bond in one inverter ?? maybe maybe not nothing seems to be documented.. Regarding the charge mode the earths will still be linked inside the inverter i.e. input side and output side.. So in order to have earth ground bonding on the system the input side will need to be disconnected from the ring main in off grid mode.. it still all seems a little hit and miss🙂

Yeah, no. I've checked the outlet which I am using.

@@offgridwanabe yes. They did a great job at your place and paid off 😄

Hallo Berndt. Ja, bei dem Punkt war ich auch schon einmal. Wir mit Schuko Stecker wissen ja, dass es sehr leicht geht L und N zu verdrehen. Ich habe alle meine Anschlüsse überprüft und auch geschaut ob nicht vielleicht intern wo was vertauscht ist. Alles Fehlanzeige! Es geht bei mir sogar so weit, dass manche Wechselrichter auf der Werkbank anders reagieren als in der Powerwall, wo nach sorgfältiger Überprüfung, auch keine Unterschiede zu finden sind. Und dann noch, dass ein Gerät tadellos funktioniert, und das andere am gleichen Platz nicht geht... Mit diesen SUNs ist das so ein Jammer. Sie gehen aus der Schachtel raus einwandfrei, bis zum ersten Fehler, dann ist die Tür offen und es wird nie mehr wie es war :( Alles Gute!

Yes. At this point I just have to many spare part donors already. lol. But yes, this is the fun in electronics repair. Those boards are like mind magnets and are always pulling you in for a new round :)

Hehe, yeah. Those covers are really useless the way they are :)